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Found 6 results

  1. Hello all, I was cleaning my truck out this spring and noticed I was missing a few plugs for the holes that are located on the inside of the fenders (wheel wells) above the rear wheels. Any idea where I can buy these? Is there a part number? See pictures
  2. Has anyone ever removed their liners and inspected the wells' steel several years after being installed? My concern is, since the liner is not chemically bonded to the steel (eg undercoated, bed-coated, etc), there could be pockets of moisture trapped between the backside of the liner and the well steel, that never really evaporates. I would think this collected moisture could pose a real problem, especially at weld points. I understand that the liners themselves will protect the surface of the factory painted wells from being compromised from stones, etc., but what about small pinholes or shallow coatings that might exist in the factory paint (especially at welds). My '19 LD came with front liners, and I'm looking for some feedback for my rears.
  3. I purchased my truck with Bushwacker Smooth Entend-a-Flare installed. I do not care for the look and was curious if anyone is interested in buying or trading. Ideally I’d like to trade for the OEM black fender moldings. Let me know if there is any interest and we can work something out.
  4. Hi, we just got ours last night. Wondering if you can buy fender/wheel well protection for the rim of the fender/well? I have this on my GMC Sierra. Thanks to all in advance for any response.
  5. Searched the forum and did not find any threads on this topic: Porous wheel well liners. I have a 2014 Silverado WT (rear wheel well liners were not included in the base price so I purchased a set of OEM's from the dealership and installed them myself). They are made of a woven/spun plastic material that feels like really stff felt, is porous and holds onto road grime, salt, mud, you name it, wonderfully. When I wash the truck the black road grime/gunk keeps weeping/wicking out of these liners to no end. Has any one else noticed this and then why would GM design liners that are not solid? is there a remedy other than pulling them out and possibly sealing them (black paint or an undercoating)? Or should I just leave well enough alone and just try to keep the wheel wells and inner panels flushed out? Our City road crews apply salt at a pounds per square foot rate. I can only guess how long till the body panels rust thru (sooner than later?). I try to flush as much as I can behind the front and rear liners but you can only do so much. Is this a five or less year truck? Knock on wood my frame has not shown the rust like others have posted.
  6. Today I installed a set of wheel well liners on my white '13 2500HD 4X. These are Rugged Liner brand and run about $110 online. I paid a little more than that locally. There are a few different part numbers for the Chevy trucks and the 2500HD part number is WWGMC011HD. The kit includes the two liners, 6 push pins (3 for each side) and 8 hex head self tapping screws (4 for each side). The instructions are pretty clear and there is a You Tube video from Rugged Liner just in case you need it. The only tools I used were a battery/op screwdriver with a 5/16" nut driver and an awl to line up the push pin holes. The liners are marked LH or RH and while they don't really tell you, I assumed the LH was the driver's side. The instructions say start on the right side but I have no idea why. The Chevy liners can be installed with the wheels on and that's what I did. After cleaning the wheel wells I went to it. Start by slipping the liner over the tire tucking each end in as you go. Once the ends are behind the lip of the wheel well push up on the liner. Now push the top lip of the liner behind and inside the top lip of the wheel well. Be careful running your hand along the metal lip of the wheel well because it is possible to put a slice in your thumb. Now everything should be inside the wheel well and although there is a little room for movement everything is pretty snug. Install the three push pins through the existing holes in the metal lip at the top of the wheel well. If you remove the push part from the pin it's a little easier on your fingers. I used the awl here to scoot the liner a little to get the pins in. The liner has a little ledge formed near where the pins go so you can pull down on the liner while pushing up on the pin. A little pushing and pulling is required here to get the pins to seat. You'll know when they are where you want them. I installed all three pins before I pushed the locking part in. Once those pins are locked you can see the 4 holes for the self tapping screws. Again, you have a little movement here but not much. Push the liner where you want it and install the screws through the front and rear fender supports. I could get the top two screws in with a regular sized battery/op screwdriver but the bottom two were running at too much of an angle. I did have an angle screwdriver so I used that but a smaller profile screw gun (like the guy in the video had) would work fine. The self tapping screws are dipped in some kind of plastic coating I assume to help the seal as they are driven. You could also use nuts and bolts here since you can get to the back side of both fender supports. That's about all there is to it...except the other side. The instructions say 15 min. to install but I must be slow because I probably had 45 min in the pair. The thickness of the plastic is about the same as the plastic on the front factory liners. I think they will hold up fine but time will tell. The liners do cover up everything that is painted and come down to the top of the frame. The first pic is why you need these on a white truck and the second is the installed liner. Notice that the push pins are black so they do stand out a little. I hope this post is helpful. Mike
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