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@theRiver..... How long have you been doing that? Mileage? is this your 5.3? or 6.2?

@Z45. Thanks forcreply. As mentioned above, I am aware what the recall is for (6.2l). Also, in the video above, the oil guy explains why auto mfgs are specifying lighter weight oils. (For efficiency to meet epa standards, not engine longevity) As for warranty, my 2017 is way out of warranty period so, as intended my car mfg, any issues are on Mt dime. As for that, I don't think the recall is to replace any 6.2 V8 that breaks after the exstended warranty period.(10 years or 150k miles) It's just to extend the life past any warranty time frame. That's a ticking time bomb, IMO. IMO, 0W40 oil isn't going to help "potential rod bearing damage from contamination" i think the 0W20 weight oil is the problem and that's what the oil guy explains. I feel this is true for ALL cars. Put light weight oil in to help meet EPA mpg standards for the life of the warranty & then it's the owners problem & expense. Same with "stop/start" & the stupid AFM lifters. Many have had to spend $ to remove that junk so their truck will live longer. Ok, finished with my reply rant. Love ya brother. Semper Fi

You are correct. But if you watch the video, the Oilguy commented, as I always believed, that car mfg have continued to reduce oil weights to achieve more MPG because the EPA requires higher mpg, as short term goal rather than to keep them running longer. My '92 535i specified 20W50. Now BMW put 0W12 in engines. To me this can't be good. So, if 0W40 now seems to be ok for the 6.2l V8, 5W30 show be ok for my L83 5.3L instead of the specified 0W20. I wanted to get feedback from the Forum guys on this, that's the reason for the original post.

GrumpBear...where did you learn all this chemistry? Help this old crayon eating Jarhead LeatherNeck what the acronyms stand for... ZDDT ZDDP LSPI I just know oil weights...bigger the number the thicker it is

Anyone else thinking of increasing their oil of choice from 0W20 to 5W30 after this recent GM recall on their 6.2L? After watching this video sure makes sense to me.

This is typical symptoms of a bad ground issue, IMO. Lots of videos on this on YouTube you might want to check out. Try the easy fixes 1st before throw the parts cannon at it. I think there was bulletin out on your year.

Any aftermarket stuff on it?

Interesting question. I don't have an answer but curious where the camera is located as I have those options on my truck.

And I agree with you. Just hard for an individual to justify the $ on it. I wish I could find someone local that could flash my transmission controller for a few bucks.

I agree with you & I do change frequently. But that doesn't change the factory set torque converter slip, which is a major issue with these 6L80s as why they fail.

Thanks for this info. I was looking for a cheaper option than $700

Check your vacuum pump

Thanks for your response. Isn't Super hip bout the same cost as HP Tuner?

I've watched several YouTube videos on Tuning the GM 6L80 transmission to help prolong it's life. All I've seen is the HP Tuner stuff, which appears pretty expensive for an old DYIer. Is there any other options out there? Any suggestions? Anyone living in the Western North Carolina area that has the software that can tune mine? 2017 Silverado LTZ with 5.3L & 6L80 transmission.

I will assume you have the 5.3 V8? Guess it depends on how cold it is where you live, if garaged or not. But yes, generally speaking, these aluminum engines warm up pretty quickly compared to my old iron block '96 5.7 V8 did.

One FYI, BMW, which I've had many, recommends flushing fluids every 2 years....but most people don't. It's easy to just forget about I utilize it.

I'm talking about all the plastic connections/connectors where the system wire connect, not body ground. I watch a YouTube channel call South Main Auto. Eric is about the most knowledgeable mechanic that traces each wire & tests them where wire harness connects, depending on the bad code reading. I can't tell you how many of these electrical issues are traced back to a plastic connection & either the .5v lead or the ground is corroded & has to be repair. He'll find the "green crusty" every time. Great guy & great channel.

Let me make an old DIYers method based on a couple items. 1. Brake fluid is Hygroscopic (that absorb moisture) 2. the 2 main places fluid sees moisture is the reservoir & the calipers. So, with said, first remove all brake fluid in the reservoir & replace with new DOT 4 fluid. (You can use a DOT 3 but pretty much same price) Ok, here's my 2nd step. When replacing brake pads, crack the bleeding screw with a clear tube connected & depress the caliper piston to push out most of the old fluid into a catch container. Then when you pump your brakes to expand the brake caliper pistons, line fluid then fills the calipers. I find this procedure remove a lot (not all) of the contaminated fluid. One thing I always do before hand is find a gravel road in summer or a snow covers road in the winter & slamp on the brakes several time to activate the ABS. This will mover fluid through the ABS pump. Just some old timer info. I always replace the reservoir fluid about once every year or so to keep freash fluid feeding the brake system. I know, I'm old school. Lol.

Several good videos on YouTube showing all the main body grounds. As far a your codes, keep in mind that a good numbers of these faults can be traced back to Bad ground at the individual wire connectors, depending on where the connectors are located. Not to be confused with the Body grounds

I also do the DGI Valve Cleaning but with the CRC stuff, as it contains the largest amount of PEA (PolyEther Amine) that is 150 times more concentrated on the intake valves than any premium fuel additive, which is what dissolves the carbon. I use it on all my GDI cars (BMWs). I have not been convinced about the catch can mode, as I feel it's fine for the engine to burn this mostly water & oil vapors, which I don't think is any big deal. Your catch can actually condense these vapors, so they become liquids. Each to their own on this mod, sort of like the cold intake systems over the OEM air filters. I'm too old for any little HP difference. LOL BTW, I'm an old school shade tree DIYer. Hard to teach this old dog/Leatherneck new tricks...LOL BTW, even BMW has added port injectors to their latest GDI engine (B58) to help eliminate the carbon build up. Enjoy your ride!

And how much is it?

Don't over think it. Just install your new bypass kit & move on. Everyone has an opinion on what's best or not. GM was forced to install the bypass due to EPA regulations to make the fluid run thinner for less drag since the fluid would be hotter. But heat kills ATF which in turn kills torque converter, which kills transmissions. They came out with a cheap work around with the cooler temp bypass but they still run too hot (IMO). My older 4L60 never had a bypass & transmission worked fine & they lasted longer that today's transmissions. Search YouTube for videos on this & transmission rebuilds will tell you HEAT KILLS ATF & to get rid of the bypass. Good luck with it & be glad the PO did his deleat.

Not sure about your statement "with no passage between".....I can't remember exactly how, but with the "pill" flipped, it allowed ATF to flow continually to the cooler. That's how these trucks used to work before the K2XX generation truck came along. Best way to know if it was allowing ATF to flow through was by the temperature of your ATF fluid on the dash display. If it stayed below the 150 F temp, for the post part, the bypass was working however the PO modified it. Hope that makes sense

Are you the original owner? If not, PO could have modified it. Just a guess.