rav3

What year is your truck? D7 is 7th gear in the L range. Put it in L & u can shift up or down using the "+/-" lever. You must have an 8 speed. You can disable both 4V & start/stop with a 'Range' device plugged into OBDII port. Google it.

https://youtu.be/je2n6yczsfo?si=VeX57vH_pdx5p-i1

Read this Service Bulletin outside tempMC-10119027-9999.pdf

You didn't say, have you driven it? It's my understanding that even when it's working and you have an outside temp displayed, then turn it off for a while, it will show the last temperature when you start it up again & won't reset until driven for more than 5 mins at over 35 mph. Strange

If it were me, I'd do the pill flip & see what changes. Imo, heat kills transmissions. Getting rid of the TTC allows the transmission to run 'normal' just like the older 4L80 did. The only reason the TTC was added was pushed due to regulations from EPA. That's my opinion & I'm sticking to it. lol

Try taking a steel type rod & lightly tap the starter/solenoid a couple times the net time it does this. I it does start, yo have a sticking solenoid & will need to replace the starter. How many miles on it?

In my opinion you won't be sorry. I'm not. My 6L80 is a weak transmission or maybe the factory torque converter. Lowering the transmission temperature along with frequent fluid changes may increase its life.

Your transmission thermostat change only drops the 'open temp' by about 20 degrees, IIRC. the pill flip or thermostat delete is a constant open & cooling of transmission fluid. I did the pill flip 3 years ago on my 17 & I don't usually see it above 140-145 F. It cools fluid like the older 4L80 transmission. This transmission thermostat is GMs way of trying to get more MPG due to EPA at the expense of the owner when torque converter goes bad & takes out the transmission. IMO

That would throw a code.

Most common place that I've seen is the shark fin antenna. Several videos on YouTube.

Watch this video If I understood Eric, he said there must not have a fuse

Glad that worked on your issue.

Start with #18 on passenger side

I've not experienced your issue before but I would suggest to pull the Radio fuse for a minute & try it again afterwards to see if that worked. It's just a thought.

I would clean all your grounds. A weak or corroded ground could cause this. Good videos on Youtube on this.

Could this sound possibly be your torque converter (going bad)?

Where are u finding the parts alliteration?

Are the '17s like this?

I'm not sure about your '15 but my '17 LTZ wt 5.3L & 6 speed 6L80 has the cooler intergrated into the top potion of the A/C condensor. No separate cooler like in the past and there is a transmission thermostat valve on the side of the transmission, which I disabled via the 'pill flip'.

There are about 4-6 individual BIG fuses on the power distribution unit that sits on top of the battery. Try to identify the specific fuse that is blowing. You have a HIGH AMP draw on that circuit. The trailer control unit lives in the back underside of the bed. If you live in the Salt belt, it's will corrod & yes short out. Unfortunately, not too many people have access to the wiring diagrams to trace from you main fuse to see what's being effected. I'd try to find a good electrical diagnostic shop like South Main Auto on YouTube. Not many mechanics are proficient on diagnosing this type issue. How many miles on your truck & are you the original owner?

It's my understanding standing, that on my '17 Double Door LTZ with the max tow package, the oil cooler is built into the A/C condenser. Can't help you on the p/n

I'm curious, have you ever done the transmission thermostat delete or is it still operational. That thing usually has the transmission run hotter

I do it on both GDI engines cars, 17 5.3L Silverado & our 15 X5 3.5L. This treatment only removes a small amount of the carbon on intake valves. Although I feel it's one of the better Chemicals out there with largest amount of PEA. Several video's on YouTube showing the results.

Can we assume you're talking about the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner? This is what CRC say. Use this intake cleaner every 10,000 miles, or at every oil change, to prevent deposit buildup.

Have you checked to see if it gets power when brake is applied? Have you checked if it has a good ground? This is the 1st simple check I'd do.