I hear you but the trailer already came wired up with this system and a camera already, so didn't make sense for me to go buy a whole new system and rip out the old one (yes I probably would have went wireless, but half of this system was already in place) he added into the deal of the travel trailer
I recently purchased a camper (travel trailer) that came with a wired review safety camera system on the trailer so you can always see behind the unit while driving. The guy wanted to keep the wiring and display unit installed in his truck because he was purchasing a new trailer. Here is a link to the system I bought just for reference https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O50XC8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not sure if anyone has installed on of these or not but it looks like I basically need to run a wire from the back of my truck, come up through the floor wire grommet on the driver side and then they want me to tap into an "ignition only" power source in the fuse box. It doesn't specify what amp of fuse to tap into. Can anyone point me in the direction of what amp would be good to tie into (10, 15, etc?). Says it needs 12 Volts of power. You can also wire directly to battery, but it makes more sense for my setup to use the fuse box since I'll be mounting the display unit on the far left of my dash. I also don't like the idea of always having to unplug or it will drain battery. I found one video on youtube (below) that is close to the unit I purchased (only it shows a 3 camera setup w/module) but it doesn't go into detail on how to tie into fuse box. Around 9:00 minutes in that vid is where he shows fuse box. Also what is best way to tie in the wire to the fuse? Thanks in advance for any help.
Confusing right?!?! I noticed the same thing. I just want to know if I can purchase a camper my truck can handle easily. I know people tow things all the time with these half ton trucks that are probably over weight, but I do not want to put any undo stress on my truck. Also everything online says my payload of a 2018 gmc sierra denali 1500 should be around 1700 lbs, but my sticker says 1472, not sure why. Do they account for a driver? I feel like I read somewhere, some manufacturers put in a 150lbs driver in those numbers.... not sure about gm I think the first thing I'm planning to do is head to a scale weigh my truck, with what's normally inside it (including my fat butt), and then subtract that number from the GVWR of 7200 and see where I'm at.
Ok so we have narrowed it down to 2 different 21 foot hybrid travel trailers, hoping to make a decision this week. Below are the specs on the 2 different models. 2017 rockwood roo 21dk dry weight = 4,141 bs Payload capacity = 1,449lbs Tongue weight (dry) = 590lbs 2017 rockwood roo 21ss dry weight = 4,668lbs payload capacity = 2,592lbs tongue weight (dry) = 504 So if my math is correct the tongue weight on the 21dk is 14%, so if we ever fully loaded the trailer up (unlikely) the tongue weight would be about 783lbs. plus my family of 4 = 500lbs., plus I'm assuming you have to add the battery (60ish lbs.) and the weigh distribution hitch I would add, probably 100 lbs. That puts me at a total payload of 1,443lbs, of my total, according to sticker, 1,471lbs. so only a whopping 28lbs to spare. As for the 21ss model, running the same type of math, the max tongue weight would be 726lbs. bringing total payload to 1,386lbs of max 1,471lbs. So I guess my question is what are everyone's thoughts on being so close to the max payload of my truck? Is it bad to be close to payload capacity, even if I'm slightly under? I'm actually shocked this is even an issue with these trucks being that they can tow 9,100lbs, but obviously could get nowhere close to that when it comes to the payload capacity issue. Also several have said they like the Equa-i-lizer wdh, does it matter which size to get? I see a 6,000lbs and 10,000lbs on amazon's page https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-P.../dp/B004TR8F5C Most RV retailers around here have been trying to sell me the "fastway e2" 2 point hitch below. What is the difference between the above 4 point hitch and this one? https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-Trunn...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Wow, ok. I haven’t really been thinking about the payload limit much. My understanding of payload was it only had to do with what was actually loaded in truck, nothing with trailer. I’ve just been looking at towing capacity. Up to this point everyone I’ve spoken to seemed to think my half ton truck would tow a 5,000lb (dry weight) travel trailer easily. Thanks for the info
Thanks for the response, that was going to actually be my next question. Would it benefit me to add a sway bar? What about adding anything to the rear suspension? I really don't want the truck to look like it's squatting in the back going down the road. As for the trailer brake system you mentioned, don't these trucks already have an electric brake system built into the them on the left side of dash, or are you talking about something different? Thanks again for all the replies.
I'm in the market for a camper (travel trailer). I have a 2018 Sierra Denali 1500 with the 5.3L. First I'm trying to determine my towing capacity and I'm a little confused on how to do so. In the book it lists both a "5.3L V8" and a "5.3L V8 with 8 speed transmission with enhanced towing package". Both say 3.42 axle ratio, but the difference is the first one lists the max trailer weight at 9,100lbs, the 2nd one lists at 10,700 lbs. Thats a big difference. How do I know which I have? I pretty confident I have the 8 speed tranny in the denali, but I do not remember them saying anything about "enhanced trailering package" I found a sticker in the glovebox but it only gives a QR code. I read somewhere online the only models that you can get the max tailer package is the SLT and maybe SLE, is that true? side note, we are looking at travel trailers around 23 feet long, with a curb weight around 5,000 lbs and GVWR of around 6,700lbs - does anyone have any feedback on if that will tow easily around the country? planning a long trip out west in the next year or so. Trying to decide between a decent size camper, and something that won't max out the denali. Thanks for the help
I just scheduled my first maintenance visit for 2 days from now. In addition to the routine stuff I'm having them look at the vibration issues. I'm sure they will say its nothing, but I will report back. I'm a little disappointed I'm also having them look at 2 other issues as well. AC has a super loud whistling noise when its running (only on AC not on heat), and my backup camera is blurry (almost like something is on the inside of the lense). I'm hoping they don't fight me on these, should be covered under warranty as I just hit 6k miles. As for the comment above by JSB81, I seriously hope you are joking about the only option to be to trade... I can't imagine that would be the only option...
Update: mine seems to have a mind of its own. It tends to come and go. I cannot figure it out, but when it occurs the entire truck seems to not drive great (sluggish), then I'll get a few days where it's perfect and no vibration and runs awesome, which is what is frustrating as hell! I'm almost due for my first service and I plan to bring it up, but I doubt it'll go anywhere...
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 134 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,398 Guests (See full list)
- Ruben Rodriguez
- Andrew L
- SILVER SLED
- David James
- Jake Hammond
- jonh Johnson
- jerry gray
- CAE AT4
- Jethroy Potter
- 95chevy c1500
- michael betz
- Nola Sciko
- Christopher Capozzia
- PRO GEM