jdaddy33

Looking for some help with replacement tires for my 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali with 20 inch rims. I tend to gravitate towards a more rugged look with raised white lettering, but nots sure if that would be a bad look with a more "luxury" truck. Was looking at the BF Goodrich Trail Terrain AT, but can't find any pictures online with the OEM rims I have. Would appreciate any pics or advise from the community.

I somehow managed to accidentally pull out my travel trailer brake away cable while hooking up to my 2018 Sierra 1500 tonight (7 pin harness was already plugged in to truck). I didn't think much of it, just plugged back in the brake away cable on the trailer. However when I got into the truck I had an error notification saying "Service Trailer Brake System." I thought I just needed to clear the message and that it just popped up when it happened, however when driving the trailer back to storage I noticed my gain indicator on the dash when I would press the brake was not showing anything (usually the line moves from left to right the harder I push the brake). When I got to the storage I turned the truck off, and unplugged the 7 pin wiring harness and then plugged in and started truck up hoping it would reset, but no luck. Checked the fuse box under the hood in truck and do not see any blown fuses. Any ideas? Don't know much about those brake away brake cables on the trailer, but assume they are pretty straight forward. Would I need to do something special to reset it on the trailer? Or is there something that needs done on the truck to get my electronic brake controller working again.

Just got my Borla S type and looking to install soon. I have ramps, jack stands, and a floor jack. What's the best method without a lift? Does running the truck up on ramps help at all? Confused on best way to get stock system out in one piece (don't want to cut as I'm selling to a buddy). Thanks for any help/advise.

Has anyone else had issues with their backup camera looking blurry. On my display in the truck I get what looks like blurry spots, but when I get out and I go back and clean off the lens it's still blurry. At my first scheduled maintenance I brought it up and they replaced under warranty. Well it started happening again and I brought it up again, this time the tech said "problem wasn't present at inspection" - which is BS. I was thinking it was maybe a seal issue, because I just washed my truck and I believe it is worse, I was able to capture this photo which makes it almost look like a residue. I tried some "goof off" and a variety of class cleaners to no avail. I'm thinking it has to be on the inside. But I can't understand why it keeps happening, even after they replaced it once.

I hear you but the trailer already came wired up with this system and a camera already, so didn't make sense for me to go buy a whole new system and rip out the old one (yes I probably would have went wireless, but half of this system was already in place) he added into the deal of the travel trailer

I recently purchased a camper (travel trailer) that came with a wired review safety camera system on the trailer so you can always see behind the unit while driving. The guy wanted to keep the wiring and display unit installed in his truck because he was purchasing a new trailer. Here is a link to the system I bought just for reference https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O50XC8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not sure if anyone has installed on of these or not but it looks like I basically need to run a wire from the back of my truck, come up through the floor wire grommet on the driver side and then they want me to tap into an "ignition only" power source in the fuse box. It doesn't specify what amp of fuse to tap into. Can anyone point me in the direction of what amp would be good to tie into (10, 15, etc?). Says it needs 12 Volts of power. You can also wire directly to battery, but it makes more sense for my setup to use the fuse box since I'll be mounting the display unit on the far left of my dash. I also don't like the idea of always having to unplug or it will drain battery. I found one video on youtube (below) that is close to the unit I purchased (only it shows a 3 camera setup w/module) but it doesn't go into detail on how to tie into fuse box. Around 9:00 minutes in that vid is where he shows fuse box. Also what is best way to tie in the wire to the fuse? Thanks in advance for any help.

Guy who is selling one of the campers offered to throw in a reese pro series weight distribution hitch. Any thoughts on that model?

I believe I have the 20's on my 18 denali

Confusing right?!?! I noticed the same thing. I just want to know if I can purchase a camper my truck can handle easily. I know people tow things all the time with these half ton trucks that are probably over weight, but I do not want to put any undo stress on my truck. Also everything online says my payload of a 2018 gmc sierra denali 1500 should be around 1700 lbs, but my sticker says 1472, not sure why. Do they account for a driver? I feel like I read somewhere, some manufacturers put in a 150lbs driver in those numbers.... not sure about gm I think the first thing I'm planning to do is head to a scale weigh my truck, with what's normally inside it (including my fat butt), and then subtract that number from the GVWR of 7200 and see where I'm at.

Ok so we have narrowed it down to 2 different 21 foot hybrid travel trailers, hoping to make a decision this week. Below are the specs on the 2 different models. 2017 rockwood roo 21dk dry weight = 4,141 bs Payload capacity = 1,449lbs Tongue weight (dry) = 590lbs 2017 rockwood roo 21ss dry weight = 4,668lbs payload capacity = 2,592lbs tongue weight (dry) = 504 So if my math is correct the tongue weight on the 21dk is 14%, so if we ever fully loaded the trailer up (unlikely) the tongue weight would be about 783lbs. plus my family of 4 = 500lbs., plus I'm assuming you have to add the battery (60ish lbs.) and the weigh distribution hitch I would add, probably 100 lbs. That puts me at a total payload of 1,443lbs, of my total, according to sticker, 1,471lbs. so only a whopping 28lbs to spare. As for the 21ss model, running the same type of math, the max tongue weight would be 726lbs. bringing total payload to 1,386lbs of max 1,471lbs. So I guess my question is what are everyone's thoughts on being so close to the max payload of my truck? Is it bad to be close to payload capacity, even if I'm slightly under? I'm actually shocked this is even an issue with these trucks being that they can tow 9,100lbs, but obviously could get nowhere close to that when it comes to the payload capacity issue. Also several have said they like the Equa-i-lizer wdh, does it matter which size to get? I see a 6,000lbs and 10,000lbs on amazon's page https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-P.../dp/B004TR8F5C Most RV retailers around here have been trying to sell me the "fastway e2" 2 point hitch below. What is the difference between the above 4 point hitch and this one? https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-Trunn...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Wow, ok. I haven’t really been thinking about the payload limit much. My understanding of payload was it only had to do with what was actually loaded in truck, nothing with trailer. I’ve just been looking at towing capacity. Up to this point everyone I’ve spoken to seemed to think my half ton truck would tow a 5,000lb (dry weight) travel trailer easily. Thanks for the info

wow! that bad boy ain't cheap ?

anyone have a particular weight distribution/sway hitch they could point me in the direction of? Greatly appreciated