jdaddy33

It ended up being the starter. Sad to see a starter go bad that soon given how expensive these trucks are! Thanks everyone

I'm going to try tapping on the starter when I get back home today from work. Hoping to get lucky enough to get it started at least once so I can avoid the towing cost of getting to a repair shop. Before I left I put a smart charger on the battery just in case. It has 58,000 miles on it. If it is the starter what are the odds when I installed the new battery that it actually fired up?!?!?!? crazy! - thought I was good to go when that happened. Also makes me wonder if the battery I replaced was truly bad.... but it was almost 6 years old and the guy did test it at autozone.

sorry to hear about your transmission! I'm constantly worrying about that with these trucks. I had the major shudder issues at 20K miles. They did the fluid swap and has been fine since, but I've also had leaking from transfer case twice! Just dumped 4K into this truck in December (front struts, leaking seal in transfer case, front axle seal leaking, and engine oil coolant line seeping oil) and now they have already quoted me close to $900 if it's the starter. Should have bought the extended warranty!!!

Forgot to mention 2018 1500 Denali....

Moved my truck last night and it started fine, went back outside to move it back into driveway 10 minutes later and wouldn't start. After messing with jumper cables for awhile it finally turned over. Drove it to autozone to have them test the battery and they said seemed like cell was bad and time to replace. Bought new battery, drove home and replaced and truck started up right away. Went out this morning and truck wouldn't start, just get a click. Battery seems fine when tested with volt meter, lights and everything work. Tried to jump it with two different sets of cables and a jump pack but no luck. All I get is a click.... Any thoughts? Starter maybe? I did get some message when I started it up last night about rolling the window down and then back up, which I thought was odd. The window was actually down so I just went up and then down...Thanks for any help, just trying to trouble shoot before towing somewhere.

Just found this thread. I have a 2018 Denali and just found my right front strut leaking at 55K miles. So far I've gotten two different quotes. First one two replace both front is 1500, 2nd one to replace both was 2,200. I asked the second place why they were more and they said they would only recommend putting the OEM struts back on and that he didn't think the first place was most likely using OEM's. When I called the first place back, they said there were going to replace with Monroe's. My question is does it actually make a huge difference going with aftermarket vs OEM's? I'm assuming the Monroe's are still Magneride right? Also I think I read somewhere that the OEM manufacture has made improvements since the original iteration that came from the factory. Anyone know if that is true?

I noticed a leak under my 2018 Sierra 1500 this weekend near the transmission. Took to a local shop today and they are telling me I need to replace my transfer case (2,000). I previously had a leak in March of 2022. That time I took to dealership as I was still under warranty. Service ticket from dealership stated "transmission fluid leaking between transmission and transfer case. Upon inspection found propeller shaft transmission flange seal leaking. Replaced seal and transmission adapter housing gasket." I called them after I got the quote from the other shop this morning to see if the work from 2022 was warrantied and they said they only warranty parts/service for 12 months. I'm also now out of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty. When I called the dealership they quoted me over the phone 2800 to replace transfer case, however they said it's highly unlikely they would need to replace it and that in most cases they just overhaul them. They said that would be 1200-1300. Is there any pro's/con's to overhaul vs replace? Also I find it weird it's already leaking again. Have not been real happy with the transmission issues. I had the shudder issue where they had to change out the fluid early on. Luckily that has not come back, but I'm wondering if this issue is related somehow.

Looking for some help with replacement tires for my 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali with 20 inch rims. I tend to gravitate towards a more rugged look with raised white lettering, but nots sure if that would be a bad look with a more "luxury" truck. Was looking at the BF Goodrich Trail Terrain AT, but can't find any pictures online with the OEM rims I have. Would appreciate any pics or advise from the community.

I somehow managed to accidentally pull out my travel trailer brake away cable while hooking up to my 2018 Sierra 1500 tonight (7 pin harness was already plugged in to truck). I didn't think much of it, just plugged back in the brake away cable on the trailer. However when I got into the truck I had an error notification saying "Service Trailer Brake System." I thought I just needed to clear the message and that it just popped up when it happened, however when driving the trailer back to storage I noticed my gain indicator on the dash when I would press the brake was not showing anything (usually the line moves from left to right the harder I push the brake). When I got to the storage I turned the truck off, and unplugged the 7 pin wiring harness and then plugged in and started truck up hoping it would reset, but no luck. Checked the fuse box under the hood in truck and do not see any blown fuses. Any ideas? Don't know much about those brake away brake cables on the trailer, but assume they are pretty straight forward. Would I need to do something special to reset it on the trailer? Or is there something that needs done on the truck to get my electronic brake controller working again.

Which Borla system did you go with? GM Version, or Direct from Borla (touring, s-type, or atak?) Sound good?

Can't decide between the K&N Blackhawk CAI and the Cold Air Inductions system. Anyone have a recommendation? K&N is about $100 cheaper. K&N is open box, as opposed to the cold air inductions being closed, any pro's/con's to open vs closed? Also K&N Blackhawk is a dry filter, not having to deal with oiling is appealing to me, but maybe not that big of deal...Yes I've read through all 54 pages and understand CAI's may be voodo but I'm pairing with a new exhaust system and figured why not.

Thanks for the responses, to be honest, you guys are actually making me lean towards the GM Borla hahahaha. I was afraid it was going to be too quiet! Like I said, I really don't want to drop $1500+ and not be able to hear it, but also not looking to be obnoxious....

In the market for a new catback exhaust system and have narrowed it down to 2 (GM Borla system vs Borla S-Type). Have read through the past 50 pages of this forum and listened to every youtube clip I can find and I'm still completely lost on which one to go with. From most of the videos I've watched I really like the sound of the S-type over the GM Borla version which most say sounds closer to the "touring" model. I'm not looking for something obnoxious on my 18 denali, but want more of a truck sound. Would hate to drop all the cash for the GM version if not much sound difference over stock (can't find a lot of clips of the GM Borla system for sound). I'm just worried about the supposed V4 drone issue with the s type. I spoke to a guy at Borla yesterday and he stated that the drone sound would most likely be present on the highway with the s-type, when it drops to V4 (helicopter sound @ 1300 - 1700 rpm's). However, he said it might be something I'd be able to live with (recommended driving one with an s-type installed, but don't have that option). He also stated I could purchase the range AFM disabler, which keeps truck in V8 all the time (not sure how I feel about that as some have said it throws check engine lights occasionally). PS - truck only has 5k miles on it, still under warranty. Do the people with S type have any feedback on if you've heard the v4 drone, or if the s type is too loud (ie wake up the neighbors/piss wife off/in cabin noise)? Guys with the GM Borla, is the sound aggressive enough, or do you wish it was louder? (any videos of the GM Borla with people getting on it? I've only have found cold starts with no revs, which makes it difficult to compare) Thanks for any help PS - probably gonna add the cold air induction CAI as well :-)