rav3

Passenger Side Plenum Drain Valve GM 22837626

That is very strange. How many miles on ur truck. Any previous work done?

Ambient Temp sensor MC-10123216-9999.pdf

I've run Valvoline P&R 3W30 as well.

I've run Seafoam in oil on several of my cars. '17 silverado 5.3 (with 5W30) & a several bimmers. In my opinion, it's a good way to keep piston rings clean.i have not seen any issues. I've watched videos on YouTube on this subject. Seafoam says you can run it in the oil full time, iirc. Here's a picture of my '05 BMW 3.0L top end after 100k miles using Seafoam.

Boy, sounds like you did what was right. Did you do the pill flip/thermostat delete? & AFM delete?

@109k .....you would have had to change fluid, do a pill flip or other thermostat delete back at 30k & 60k & 90k to help the transmission to live longer. IMO.

I may be wrong but I lost MyLink after my OnStar subscription rand out. I think you have to subscribe to OnStar to get it back. Correct me if I'm wrong

I'll throw my .02 cents in. I have a '17 LTZ with 6l80e. GM programs these transmissions to let the torque converter slip & lock up at lower speeds & in lower gears. My truck would feel like a shutter or miss, due to this programed slip & lock up and to compound this, the AFM (DOD) is another issue. I had my transmission tuned via HP Tuning & it drives like a different truck. The eliminate the slip, the lock-up & DOD. They did a torque matching between engine & transmission (not sure what this does) and changed the shifting points & increased throttle response. I had a Range AFM delete & a throttle commander & the tune eliminated both. As I'm sure some will comment that your TC is toast but I highly recommend a tune. I also change my ATF often via ducking it out the ATF dip stick tube. Much easier than pan drop. Just my opinion!

How many miles on the 2016 suburban?

I just had my 6l80e tuned via HP Tuning to remove DOD & stop the GM programed torque converter Slip. The TQ has a carbon fiber type ckutch material that allows it to slip, causing wear & heat. The tuning removed all of this, with lock up in 5th & 6th. Also programmed better throttle response. Drives like a different truck. I also did tge pill flip so transmission never goes above 140-150⁰.

Also, there are YouTube hacks on how to remove the transmission pans without undoing your exhaust pipes if you so desire to drop the pan & change the filter

Not sure about your miles on truck, but, IMO, it's a waste of time to drop the pan & replace the filter. I KNOW TGERE ARE SOME THAT DON'T AGREE. But, the transmission filter is nothing more than a screen. It's not like an oil or fuel filter. It's only stops large chunks due to porous media. I have cut open filters with 130k on them & they look fine. They don't filter out clutch material. I just suck out 4-5 quarts thru the trans dip stick tube & refill with a good Dexron 6 ATF on my 6l80e. I do this about every 10k-to 20k & it looks almost new. Main thing is to refresh the additives & remove the suspended clutch material. Don't over think it. You have magnets to collect the ferrous particles & lots of clutch material sticks to pan bottom via surface tension. Let me share this video.

SB-10090217-2280.pdf https://share.google/Uw9HY5OSBGDCcl2nX

Just guessing but your TC Actuator is not working. Could be a bad ground, bad connection or bad actuator. Just my opinion Several videos on this on YouTube

https://youtu.be/e5l5IQB0h2E?si=5bZTJdQm96q8rLid

Search YouTube for this. Video better that typing

This is from Google search. GM codes P2097 (Bank 1) and P2099 (Bank 2) both signal a Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich, meaning your engine's computer detects excess fuel after the catalytic converter, often pointing to issues like exhaust leaks, faulty downstream O2 sensors, bad fuel injectors, or sometimes even a restricted air filter or bad fuel pressure regulator, requiring checks for vacuum leaks and proper sensor/exhaust function on both sides.

What year & miles?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Lol

I personally would leave it along unless it's giving you issues. But if the A/C is working fine I don't see how it can be affected since it's a closed system. Just my opinion from a guy that has a '17 LTZ.

It will get better. The 6L80 holds approximately 12.2 to 12.4 quarts of ATF. Each 4 qt R&R will get more & more of the old fluid out BUT, it just takes time. The clutch material is what makes the fluid dark in color. Clutch material is a fine abrasive, sort of like 2000 grit paper, so you want to get as much out as possible. Also, heat is a killer to the additives in the ATF & shear degrades the Fluid. You want it to get back to clear red. Your transmission filter will not filter that small of particles out. It only gets the big stuff, so don't worry about it for now. Here's a good video.

I don't think so.

In my humble opinion, don't waste your time & efforts to drop the pan. Just suck 4+ quarts out the fill tube & replace with good Dexron VI. Drive for a week or what ever miles u want & repeat. Watch this video on ATF filters. Most people think the filters are like oil filters but they're not. https://youtu.be/Vh8EBmSO5Bk?si=0MADGeW24Rdc0LrS

If it were me (and it's not) I'd do a complete flush adding the new recommend fluid. I don't think it would be good to mix it as in a drain & fill. That only gets about half of fluid. My thoughts.