rav3

How many miles on the 2016 suburban?

I just had my 6l80e tuned via HP Tuning to remove DOD & stop the GM programed torque converter Slip. The TQ has a carbon fiber type ckutch material that allows it to slip, causing wear & heat. The tuning removed all of this, with lock up in 5th & 6th. Also programmed better throttle response. Drives like a different truck. I also did tge pill flip so transmission never goes above 140-150⁰.

Also, there are YouTube hacks on how to remove the transmission pans without undoing your exhaust pipes if you so desire to drop the pan & change the filter

Not sure about your miles on truck, but, IMO, it's a waste of time to drop the pan & replace the filter. I KNOW TGERE ARE SOME THAT DON'T AGREE. But, the transmission filter is nothing more than a screen. It's not like an oil or fuel filter. It's only stops large chunks due to porous media. I have cut open filters with 130k on them & they look fine. They don't filter out clutch material. I just suck out 4-5 quarts thru the trans dip stick tube & refill with a good Dexron 6 ATF on my 6l80e. I do this about every 10k-to 20k & it looks almost new. Main thing is to refresh the additives & remove the suspended clutch material. Don't over think it. You have magnets to collect the ferrous particles & lots of clutch material sticks to pan bottom via surface tension. Let me share this video.

SB-10090217-2280.pdf https://share.google/Uw9HY5OSBGDCcl2nX

Just guessing but your TC Actuator is not working. Could be a bad ground, bad connection or bad actuator. Just my opinion Several videos on this on YouTube

https://youtu.be/e5l5IQB0h2E?si=5bZTJdQm96q8rLid

Search YouTube for this. Video better that typing

This is from Google search. GM codes P2097 (Bank 1) and P2099 (Bank 2) both signal a Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich, meaning your engine's computer detects excess fuel after the catalytic converter, often pointing to issues like exhaust leaks, faulty downstream O2 sensors, bad fuel injectors, or sometimes even a restricted air filter or bad fuel pressure regulator, requiring checks for vacuum leaks and proper sensor/exhaust function on both sides.

What year & miles?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Lol

I personally would leave it along unless it's giving you issues. But if the A/C is working fine I don't see how it can be affected since it's a closed system. Just my opinion from a guy that has a '17 LTZ.

It will get better. The 6L80 holds approximately 12.2 to 12.4 quarts of ATF. Each 4 qt R&R will get more & more of the old fluid out BUT, it just takes time. The clutch material is what makes the fluid dark in color. Clutch material is a fine abrasive, sort of like 2000 grit paper, so you want to get as much out as possible. Also, heat is a killer to the additives in the ATF & shear degrades the Fluid. You want it to get back to clear red. Your transmission filter will not filter that small of particles out. It only gets the big stuff, so don't worry about it for now. Here's a good video.

I don't think so.

In my humble opinion, don't waste your time & efforts to drop the pan. Just suck 4+ quarts out the fill tube & replace with good Dexron VI. Drive for a week or what ever miles u want & repeat. Watch this video on ATF filters. Most people think the filters are like oil filters but they're not. https://youtu.be/Vh8EBmSO5Bk?si=0MADGeW24Rdc0LrS

If it were me (and it's not) I'd do a complete flush adding the new recommend fluid. I don't think it would be good to mix it as in a drain & fill. That only gets about half of fluid. My thoughts.

Since it's an 8 speed, there was a Service bulletin that recommended changing the fluid to a better Mobile 1 ATF. Was this ever done?

I'm curious, how many miles on it? Has it ever had fluid changed & thermostat bypass installed?

I would start with what mikeyk101 said...

Great video on this.

Fuse 47 in engine bay Watch video at the 3min 50 sec time

Are u the original owner? Do you have the maintenance records on what has been done? Personally, I do the fluids more frequently that GM says. If no previous records on fluid changes I would: 1. drain & fill transmission ATF, about 4 quarts which can be sucked out the fill tube. Not sure which transmission u have but assume 6 speed. It take Dexron vi 2 drain & fill transfer case if 4x4. Dexron VI 3. I'd also drain & fill front & rear differentials 4 at the least, replace brake fluid in reservoir. 5. Replace your air filter & cabin filter. Just my opinion

I'm not an A/C guy but doesn't the refrigerant become a gas when not compressed? I don't think it's possible. It would evaporate. You might have a little A/C oil mixed and I would also think that the A/C system could be contaminated with ATF. Not good. I would have a new condenser & filter installed, flush & recharge A/C. Then flush the transmission, install new transmission filter & see what happens. Good luck getting the dealer to eat that one.

On our 2017 Silverado, the transmission cooler lines go to the AC condenser, which serves as the primary heat exchanger for the transmission fluid, with the lines running to the top portion of the condenser to cool the fluid. While some radiators have an integrated cooler, GM vehicles from this era are designed with the transmission cooler built into the A/C condenser.

I guess it's always possible but I have not heard of this in the past. In either case, I don't think the dealer would admit it.