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  1. I have a 1994 Chevy C1500, 5.7L engine. My truck idled high and I finally got around to replacing the idle air control valve. This didn't fix the problem and it continued to idle high. I determined the issue to be a vacuum leak, so I replaced my vacuum hoses and checked connections. I tested by spraying carb cleaner and the engine still bogged down at this so I cleaned the throttle body and made a new gasket for the throttle body because that one was falling apart. After doing this, the truck began idling extremely low. It threw the EGR code, so I have since replaced the EGR valve and EGR solenoid. Neither of these fixed the problem. Next on the list is to replace the throttle body gasket along with the distributor cap and rotor. Additionally, my truck will also struggle to accelerate. The confusing part is this- there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to the low idle. Sometimes, the truck idles in park at 800-900 RPM and is able to adjust the idle to the load of the AC being turned on. Other times, it idles in park at what is most likely 300-400 RPM because it doesn't even register on the gauge. It does not seem to have any consistency as to if the engine is hot or cold- it just seems to be whenever it feels like it. This evening, while working on it, it started straight up once and idled great at 800 or so RPM and handled AC and headlight load. While the AC was running, we unplugged the wire that makes the AC compressor run- this dropped the RPM down to around 700 and it never recovered from that. The truck was turned off and started again. This time it idled around 700. Truck was turned off and started again- this time it idled around 500-600. The truck was turned off and now it had to be given gas to start and idled low, around 400-500. Any ideas to explain what is causing this? We are all going mad trying to troubleshoot this and figure it out. We've checked so many things and nothing seems to be causing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Okay I have a random misfire code 300 302 304 307 replaced already o2 bank 1 upstream and down stream,new plugs,new wires,new coils, new injectors,maf and map, truck will idle fine then it won’t,check engine light will blink and then stay on,if it’s idling ruff and I take off it stumbles till I hit 25 or 30 mph and then I punch it and it runs fine for an hour down the freeway, then when I stop it may idle ruff or fine what is going on with this truck and it has a lot of power,help......gas engine no flex fuel
  3. I installed a new 6.0 motor with high volume oil pump on my 2008 6.0 LTZ suburban. It has only 500 miles on it at the moment as of 9-5-2019. I installed a new intake, new throttle body, (relearned) new radiator, new plugs, wires, injectors, fuel pump and new heavy duty motor mounts, I have this slight shake at idle and you can feel it in the performance of the truck when driving down the freeway as if something is holding it back, Its not throwing any codes, engine light is not coming on. Had a guy that all he does is reprogram cars and trucks with his computers and when he hooked his high dollar stuff to the truck, the rpm went to zero while it was running and said it was a cam position sensor but when he disconnected it it went back to normal. my regular mechanic hooked up his diagnostic computer (Zuess) right after and it had no codes and we cant find out what is up. Maybe the guys high dollar stuff was messed up. Some guys are saying its the trucks computer but its not showing any codes, it runs fine but it should be absolutely purring like a kitty cat and there should not even be the slightest movement. The guy with the computers said that it has the fuel efficiency program on it that drops to 4 cylinders from 8 to save on fuel, he said the system was on and asked if I wanted it turned off for 250.00. I didn't do it. something is up and its driving me nuts. anybody have an idea at all? the #1 cylinder failed on the original motor and the traction control code came on and said it needed to be serviced. After the motor was replaced it did not come on again and there was no code for it as well. just for some history. Please help
  4. Just replaced e driver side engine mount. After the install, my idle/park started rough idling specially it has more vibration and noise during Reverse. Any idea what could cause this?
  5. Hey guys, first post on here and I've got something that stumped me 100%. I have a 2005 silverado 1500 flex vin code Z. It Idles rough it has terrible acceleration, wide open throttle it takes off like nothing is wrong. It misses on 7 every time, misses on 2 every other time, every other cylinder misses here and there. No misses when in park and rpms are kept about 2500. CEL flashes most the time when accelerating (except WOT) otherwise the light is on solid. It has 220k on it and I have replaced alot of parts. New parts All 4 02 sensors OEM Plugs OEM wires OEM Fuel pump OEM Throttle body cleaned 3 stage fuel system cleaner BG Brand Air filter believe it or not OEM again New transfer case (unrelated issue) I have covers the base of the intake with brake cleaner multiple time, no signs of leaks. I've had the smoke machine hooked up 3 to 5 times and again no signs of leaks. At this point what is the best route to take? Remove intake manifold so it's easier to get to and replace the main grounds behind the heads and replace gasket at the same time? Replace the pcm? Replace throttle body maybe? Any other suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I am a long time GM customer and currently own a 2009 GMC Yukon Hybrid truck. It has been an ok experience but just recently the truck started to do some strange and unsafe things. It started out revving up without pressing the pedal or hesitant to accelerate after stops and then moved on to stalling in the middle of driving and would give me a warning of REDUCED ENGINE POWER, SERVICE STABILITRACK AND SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL but would only do it every blue moon. Here recently I was leaving somewhere and the car begin to shake and shake and then stalled out after those codes popped up. I called the dealership and set it up for an appointment. They got me in and the day I was taking it to them it gives me the reduced engine power warning and I noticed the car went from a rough idle to an even rougher idle increasing more and more as I'm driving. Finally I hear 'CLUNK' and then all of a sudden its not just a rough idle, the engine is shaking VIOLENTLY. I turn the car off. Other times when the car would give me the warning of engine power being reduced, I could turn it off and wait a second and turn it back on and it would magically reset for a random time period before it did it again. I was about 2 mins out from the dealership so I made my way there and as I'm pulling it the engine starts to do that crazy shaking thing...everyone literally stops and stares at me, probably trying to figure out if I'm about to blow up! They get it in and the tech is super alarmed by that shaking and said he had never seen or heard anything like it. They pull the codes and replace the throttle body position sensor under an extended coverage offered by GM. After they fixed it, I'm notified that one of my engine mounts broke and I now have to produce $1,000 to fix it!!! The engine mount is what broke during the engine freak out during the 20 minute drive to the dealership because I heard it! When I get my car back it now wont go into hybrid mode anymore and its idling super funny... up and down...up and down and I can now feel every shift the engine makes and the start up and turn off even rattles now and my engine ran so smooth before this you could balance a penny on the engine! I'm so upset because GM says this is my out of pocket expense. However this only occurred because of their defective part! I'm taking it back in whenever the dealership calls me back(been waiting for hours) and they will see why the engine is idling unevenly and "recheck their work". I'm so sad and after talking to a GM rep who so rudely informed me that they did their part on fixing the throttle body and to just shovel out $1,000 that is not not their problem, it s actually a point of frustration. My husband and I have own 6 GM cars that were a pleasure to buy and drive but we will never buy another GM car again!
  7. Hi all, I have been in the vibration forums for a couple months now and have decided to make a new thread dedicated specifically to the Class Action Suit that I have been working with a lawfirm in Boston. Over the course of the last month, the firm has been actively investigating the issues many of us are seeing in our vehicles. Let me be a little more specific, They have hired outside investigators who are working with the top level partners at the firm to actively research, test, and and inspect the trucks, looking into the Vibrations, Radio Reception, and Transmission issues. I have been sending them any and all information that I come across, that is sent to me or posted in the forums that could potentially help them. In the mean time, I am and have been taking names, email addresses, phone numbers, trucks, locations (city & state) and if you have yet to rid yourself of the truck (trade or otherwise), and now what your issue(s) are/ were. It doesn't matter if you have gotten rid of your truck or not, at worst we may only be able to use your case, at best, we may be able to get you some form of compensation (I can not say for sure, that is up to the attorneys to figure out, what extent that this can go) If you would like to be added to the rapidly growing list of people who wish to be contacted please send me a PM with the information mentioned above. (please note: I can not guarantee the attorneys will contact you, however the more people who join the list, the more powerful the case, and the better off we are) Good Luck with your trucks, Jesse D. ------EDIT------ I decided to combine the yes and and about to send information to Jesse D. into one line item. those of you that have sent me your info or those who were in the about to category please resubmit your vote to the correct line. those of you who haven't voted but already sent me your info, please submit your vote, i would like to try to keep this as accurate as possible. I do have some names from people I have talked to who are not on the forum, so I know it will never be 100%. Thank you Jesse D.
  8. I've searched this forum for a while and found similar symptoms but I could never find where anyone got any resolution. I have a used 2015 Silverado Z71 4x4 with the 5.3l V8. I bought it 4 months ago with 56k miles on it and now it has 62k. A few months ago I started to notice that the truck was sluggish when going about 20mph and slowly accelerating. I really had to step on the gas to get it to drop down a gear and pull out of the slump. Then a week ago my truck started to idle roughly that felt like a misfire. There was no CEL and gas mileage seemed to remain the same. The engine shakes enough to make the antenna whip and you can see drinks in the center console rock back and forth. I brought into my dealership and they verified the shaking and checked in in P, D, N and R. They diagnosed the issue with faulty motor mounts even though I said it is sluggish and missing. Two days later they said to come pick it up and right when I got into the truck I could tell it wasn't fixed. I had the service advisor come out and he profusely apologized. A manager came out and verified that it wasn't fixed and ripped the advisor for not verifying the work. They kept it another day and said they couldn't figure it out since there was no CEL but said the fuel pressure was significantly uneven between the left and right side of the engine. They let me take it home over the weekend and made an appointment for me to bring it back later in the week and I would get a loaner vehicle. He said they will be speaking with gm technicians to figure out what it could be. What was the resolution if any? Thanks.
  9. 2016 Tahoe rough idle I have a 2016 Tahoe Z71 that has been to the dealership 3 times for a rough idle. The motor mounts have been replaced as per the bulletin from GM but the vehicle still idles rough at stops and sometimes in Park. I contacted GM customer service the last time I took it in and got an email stating that they were concerned that I was having issues and customer satisfaction was their goal in this issue. So I tried emailing and calling the number I was given and left several different messages but got no response. After about 2 weeks a senior customer service representative contacted me by phone. He stated he had researched my vehicle’s history and saw that the motor mounts had been replaced and at this time there was nothing else that could be done. He said that the rough idle was a “characteristic of the vehicle”, it does not effect the performance or integrity of the motor. He then went on to say that there is a bulletin out for this issue and further investigation is being done to fix this issue and when there is one they will fix my truck. Wow! If it is a characteristic of the vehicle why is it being further investigated to be fixed? I drive a 2012 Tahoe for work everyday and it idles in Park for at least 9 hours a day and still that work truck does not idle rough like my personal vehicle. It’s sad to see the quality of vehicles GM is putting out to their customers. You hear buy American but it’s hard to when u have issues like this. So much for GM’s customer satisfaction when they tell u there is nothing else that can be done for the $60K vehicle you bought from us that does not run the way it is suppose to. I’m sure there is a lot of you out there with this same issue. Wondering if anybody has gotten any kind of fix for this? Thank you RDOrtiz11
  10. Hi guys and gals. Just recently got a 2003 Sierra 1500 4.8 4x4 z71 extended cab with 300,000km on the clock. Ive been noticing it hard on gas and idle isn’t really smooth, especially when it’s colder sometimes I can see the tac jump a little. When it’s cold sometimes the engine light will flash for a few minutes. But when it’s cold sometimes the fuel gauge goes to empty and sets the gas light on and then comes back to normal after a minute or two. Use to have issues with four way randomly coming on, but that stopped for now so far. So so far I have swapped two different fuel pumps (both came from tested and running parts trucks) , new ngk wires, new ac Delco plugs sometimes you can hear what I think is a sparking noise from the passenger side. I dont have a lot of money and trying to fix this without a garage. Any help be greatly appreciated. I hooked up my phone and torque app and have attached the error codes and some data the app gave me. I just dont don’t want to be throwing parts at it trying to guess what’s wrong. Thanks for your time!
  11. I have a 2012 silverado and my check engine light keeps coming off and on. The codes read are c0900- device 1 voltage high(history) c0899- device 1 voltage low(history) p0300- multiple misfire detected (History Mil) p0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected (confirmed) there is a slight rough idle on the truck, and I think that my gas mileage has decreased slightly Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be before I take it to a shop, or start replacing parts
  12. I have a 94 3500HD, starts up fine and runs good, but after about a minute of running it starts running rough and it will loose power and acceleration, will not go over 25MPH, does anybody have any ideas of what it could be?
  13. Hi new to the site, read a forum where wrencher answered a question and I was impressed. I an a highly trained technician but not on automobiles, I do enjoy the hobbie of trying to fix my own junk. Here is my issue I purchased a Tahoe with a known problem, I was told it needed a new engine, I have owned several 5.3 engines in trucks and found it hard to believe that this engine was bad. These engines seem to be bullet proof to me. I can start the engine and it almost like it has such bad misfires it wont run, the idle is so rough it shakes impossible to drive even though I drove it on the trailer to haul it home. list of what I have done. Cleaned fuel injectors appear to be fine, checked fuel pressure its great, checked all coils and wires and plugs all is well. One thing I found was someone had replaced the passenger side catalytic converter. I wanted to check to see if possible I had an exhaust issue so when I went under I was surprised to find Im guessing when the new converter was installed the cross member bolts were removed and when they were replaced the 2nd O/2 Sensor on the drivers side wires had been caught between the nut and frame and all 4 wire were grounded to the frame. I thought I had found the problem or at least in the right location after undoing and fixing the wires back ( havent put the sensor on yet I need to get one) so I just fixed the wire back just to try and it still has the same problem. one question is maybe due to the short could it have ruined the PCM?? Any ideas please help.
  14. New to site but I've got problems with my work truck I recently bought a long block 5.7 vortec from summit. And I also bought the updated fuel injection setup I also replaced the fuel pump the mass air flow sensor and fuel filter. It ran about thirty min. And developed a hesitation when I come to a stop then I would have to feather the throttle and it eventually would snap out of it and accelerate normally. So today I drove about twenty miles out to a place I ride dirt bikes and it was the same thing hesitated at every stop light until I got back into town and stopped at the only light and then it started missing and sputtering instead of hesitating and it is strange because it idles fine soon as I try to give it gas it starts dropping one or more cylinders and it doesn't stop missing I checked the wires and distributor cap rotor they looked perfect I did replace the distributor when I changed the motor also so it has maybe 3000 miles on it as well as the motor fuel pump water pump. I just changed the mass air flow with a new one last week. It's not showing any check engine light but I can barley get it to go. It misses so bad if I give it more gas pedal I intermittently back fires through the intake sounds like I'm am stumped I check the grounds I checked for vacuum leaks I need to get this thing running it's the only thing I have to drive for work. And I took last week off to fix the rear axle and put new brakes on the van along with new fuel filter and. MAF SENSOR. Please if someone can help it would be great to have this thing fixxed so I get my jobs finished thanks
  15. Hello all, I have a 2005 Silverado 2500HD Regular Cab W/T. I have been having issues with this truck for quite some time now. Right now I am writing because of a problem with a rough idle that has been getting worse the past week or so. When I come to a stop at a red light or a stop sign the truck can get an extremely rough idle and almost seem as though it is going to bog out / stall. Sometimes I have to throw it in neutral and give it some gas until the light turns green and I can start moving again. Another problem I am having is with starting the truck. Sometimes I turn the key and the truck starts fine. About 50 - 75% of the time when I turn the key it will start to crank but will fail after a second. I can then try again and it will usually start up again no problem. Another problem I am having is with a vibration when traveling at 35 mph and an ongoing vibration starting at about 20 mph - 70mph. The vibration at 35mph is more of a shake / rumble strip vibration almost like there is bubble in the tire. The second vibration is more of a "humming" and I suspect a wheel bearing or cv axle. Some more information: Just last week the message center pulled a message: "Battery Not Charging" and was falling below 14 volts. I just replaced the MAP sensor thinking that would fix the idle but this did not work. Replaced spark plugs about a month ago. Changed out diff fluid Changed out transmission fluid (Full flush & filter) Changed out oil Ran seafoam through engine Ran fuel system cleaner through gas tank So to summarize: 1. Problem with rough idle at stop sign / red light. Very rough idle - almost stalling out - Possible fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs? 2. Problem with crank / starting. Will not start on first key turn... takes a second try to get the engine to turn over. - Possible fuel pump, fuel filter, battery, alternator? 3. Vibration at 35mph (Rumble Strip, speed bump vibration / shake) - Wheel Bearing, CV Axle? 4. Humming from ~20mph - 70mph (Very loud around 50 mph when letting off of gas and cruising) - Wheel bearing, CV Axle, Tires? I posted a video of the humming and problem starting at : Thanks for all of your help, Peter
  16. Recently my 2006 Silverado 5.3 litre has been having some rough idle issues. The issues are intermittent, but most of the time the truck doesn't start idling rough until it is to operating temperature. Also, my truck has a slight hesitation from take off, never throwing a check engine light though. Recently I changed all the plugs with Ac Delco iridiums and put new wires on the truck as well. The MAF sensor has been cleaned along with the throttle body (the throttle body was barely dirty). After going through what I thought would fix the problem, I thought I would try some Techron in it, so I ran the tank down to about empty and threw some in and filled it up. The truck ran absolutely amazing with the Techron in the tank, smoothed right out, the rough idle and hesitation were gone. After I went through the tank filled with Techron and filled up with another tank of gas, the rough idle and hesitation came back... Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this, or has anyone had this happen to them? And by the way, the truck only has 66,000 miles on it...
  17. Hey all, I drive a 97 k2500 p/u w/ 5.7L. I'm trying to diagnose all the problems listed above, but don't have a lot of experience (or money for that matter). As far as the no start problem, it will sit and crank forever, but the only way I can get it to start is by applying the gas pedal and even then it still struggles. In addition to all that, it struggles and stutters and just generally has no balls. I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator so I got a fuel pressure gauge and attached it to the schrader valve. When I turned it to accessory and let the fuel pump run, it shot up to 60 psi and then down to between 15 and 20 psi after a couple of seconds. When cranking it, it's at 60 psi as well. Does anybody have any advice or idea what it could be or where I should look next? I'm kind of new to troubleshooting vehicles so any help would be great.
  18. Hello all, I am new here and yesterday I posted some questions that I really need help with in 2 locations because I didn't know where to post them correctly. Consequently, I never got any answers maybe because the admin deleted them both. My bad, I honestly didn't know where the right place was. So here are a couple of my primary concerns with this truck, if anyone can help I would appreciate it... The dealer had my truck for 6 days to replace a broken dash piece and to troubleshoot driving issues. During the test drive, the service (manager?) stomped the gas to the floor and we both heard a metallic sound, he repeated it numerous times and the sound always came back. To me it sounded like a couple of lifters that were about to shoot out from under the hood. We went back to the dealership where I was asked to wait while he and the shop foreman went for a drive. When they returned I was told that it was "just and exhaust noise" and it was "perfectly normal". They insisted I take a drive with the shop foreman even though we all agreed that I feel issues that they believe to be normal for this vehicle, so the test drive was pointless. Nonetheless, we drove. I showed how when I step on the gas to take off the engine seems to bog down and lack throttle response, I also showed how at each and every stop the truck shakes like it is having an epileptic fit. The explanation I got was that this was the active fuel management system just doing its job and it was "perfectly normal". Call me crazy but I just can't wrap my head around a new vehicle of any type, but especially not a 54K vehicle shaking like crazy, rattling under heavy throttle and lacking the power to get out of its own way to be "perfectly normal". But maybe I am wrong, any thoughts or advice would be super appreciated. Thanks
  19. I have a 2003 GMC Sierra with about 117,000 miles that has a rough idle when you first start in the morning. The normal idle is about 600 RPM. When you first start in the morning, it will run at the elevated RPM, but when it starts to drop back down to the normal idle, it will start to run rough and the RPM can drop to about 300 RPM and then jump back up to 1000 RPM. The roughness is more pronounced as the outside temperature gets colder. When this is happening, it will run normal at any elevated RPM so you only notice it at a stop light when you are at idle. At first it started when the temp guage showed about 175 degrees, but smoothed out when it came to full operating temperature. I took this to be at the point that the engine goes from the open loop to the closed loop......which pushed me to it being an intake manifold gasket problem. I checked for any loose hoses and sprayed starting fluid around the edges of the intake manifold and over the hoses but did not get any "surge".......which made me think that maybe it was something else. As it was cheap and easy, I changed out the temp sensor, and as the cooling system was opened, I precautionary changed out the thermostat.......but no change. Althought the throttle body was cleaned about a year ago when the MAF sensor was changed, I cleaned the TB and also removed and sprayed the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I wanted to change out the fuel filter, but I think that it is rusted together with the fuel lines. I have been spraying PB blaster on the connections for the past couple day and will try to separate on my next day off. I ran a bottle of injector cleaner and just refilled the tank with two more bottles, but so far have not noticed any difference. A visual check of the engine does not show any leaking fuel. This past summer, I changed out the spark plugs and spark plug wires. The MAF sensor is only about a year old. The fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are about 2 years old. It is pushing P300, P171 and P174 codes and last night I had a P101 code for the first time. Now, I don't think that both O2 sensors would fail at the same time so I think that those codes are a result and not cause of the codes..... Which takes me back to unmetered air getting into the system after the MAF sensor. I don't know if I should change out the intake manifold gaskets or take it to a shop to get a full scan with data. The gaskets are about $80 which would cover the scan, but am I wasting my time with a bad diagnostic? I would hate to spend the time and money to change out the gaskets and then still have the same problem. Any opinions?
  20. After today my truck idled and drove like absolute crap. I had recently put new gaskets on the water pump and it seals just fine, not leaking anywhere, temperature is fine. Before hand I never over heated it or anything. It holds good oil pressure and temperature is around 200. I heard because the headers and exhaust is cherry red it could be running extremely rich. I personally thought that the catalytic converters could be clogged and is not exhausting enough. I replaced 02 sensors and replaced the CPS (Crankshaft position sensor). I read the codes before all this happened and the MAP sensor did not come up. Any feedback would be nice. I know its hard to troubleshoot when its not in person but any feedback will help.
  21. Just wanted to say I cleaned my throttle today and I saw an immediate difference in the truck. everyone with a rough idle or a vibration at 900-1000 rpm should look into this. both were problems I had and after cleaning the throttle and intake my idle is so smooth I have to stare at the needle to see any movement. also if you look back at my posts I had a vibration at 1000 rpm or so and so far that seems gone as well, If there is any change I will update this post for future reference to anyone that reads this. by the way the truck is a 2009 Silverado 5.3 ext cab z71 with afm. hope this helps anyone else with those problems
  22. After work tonight i noticed a rough idle every 3 or so seconds so i said what the heck and added some sea foam to the fuel, truck instantly smoothed out when i started it and the lifters went silent? Kind of confused. I did get a full syn oil change today at local dealer but the lifters made the noise still all day. Ive added sea foam to the crank in the past on my ford f250 and once on the silverado, but figured id leave just plain dexos in there for now and see what happens. But adding it to the fuel makes no sense to me? Could anyone chime in? Ill give an update after i drive a few miles tomorrow. Thanks, Mike.
  23. Alright for starters im new to this forum but I'm curious for answers. I have a 2003 Silverado ext cab Z71 LT it has the 5.3 vortec V8. About six months ago it had a cylinder misfire and I decided it had been a while for a plug and wire change and that it was most likely the culprit. Changed the plugs only, and the misfire went away. About two weeks after misfire came back went ahead and changed the wires to avail. Tested for spark and found that I had a bad coil so I changed it out. Misfire still there. Ran codes came back for a bad MAF sensor replaced the MAF sensor and it didn't changed. Ran codes again said I was pulling in to much air in both banks. Did some research and a smoke test, ultimately replaced the intake manifold gasket still have the Misfire ran for codes again came back as bad MAF sensor again had the one I put in replaced under warranty, still no change. Any ideas on what next? It's only misfiring on one cylinder cylinder two. And it's always been cylinder two. She has 255k miles on her and up until the cylinder misfire has run like a top the whole way. Any help or ideas would be great guys thanks in advance.
  24. I have a 2003 silverado and am having issues. When i first start truck it will miss and sputter and idle will fluctuate for 10 to 15 seconds then will smooth out. when on road at WOT it loses power, feels very restricted, rough runs, misses and the check engine light comes on. Pull code and it is p0151 and p1031. the o2 sensors have been replaced. Any clues as to what i could look for? Could a leak in the intake cause that or a bad fuel pressure regulator? HELP!!!
  25. 99 Silverado with 170k miles. Idles just fine when in Park, but when I shift it in to Drive and then come to a stop in traffic or stop light the idle is rough and seems like truck is about to stop. I'm guessing this has something to do with clutch not fully engaging? I should add that the cold weather in Colorado has made this problem appear. I hadn't noticed this issue until the last few days where it's been around 2 degrees out. Thanks, chris
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