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marpel

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  1. '22 Sierra 2500 HD. Actually a couple questions. After a complete overhaul (new wiring/new brake assembly/new junction box/new 7 pin cable/ensured proper connections and ground and star wheeled the correct drag etc) of trailer brake system, I pulled the trailer to set the gain in anticipation of trip. At that time, using the OEM brake controller resulted in absolutely no trailer brakes. Took the truck into the dealer who confirmed an issue and kept the truck for 2 days only to advise it was fixed and the issue was a loose fuse somewhere not even directly related to the brake wiring. But I was assured everything worked OK. Believing the system was working, hitched up the trailer the day before we were to leave and a test run proved the system was not working and had to push gain to 10 to get a moderate tug on the brakes (using brake controller by hand), but no lock-up (with the previous truck, 2012 Sierra and same trailer, I was able to easily lock the brakes), but pretty poor performance with using brake pedal. Because we were committed to leave, I pulled the trailer to/from Vancouver BC and Denver Co, and had to manually use the brake controller for slowing/stopping. A lot of anticipating slowing/stopping, and a big pain but doable. As I am an electrical newbie, I don't know for sure, but it seemed as if the foot brake was not providing enough voltage to the system, and working the brake controller by hand was a bit more powerful, but still not peak voltage. Plan on returning to dealer. But to prepare myself, is the above possible, where a connection issue at the foot brake, and less so at the brake controller, causes a lack of voltage to the system, resulting in a reduced application of the brake at the wheel? And if this is true, is there a device that can be hooked to the truck's 7 pin to conclusively determine the voltage output? If this is not so, any info that I can use in my conversations with the service rep. When I first took the truck in and they "fixed" the problem, I was unaware enough to just believe what they told me. But I would like to be better prepared this time. And a couple of unrelated questions: Is driving in L6 the same as driving in D (6th gear)? In other words, is there any issue with driving in L6? And why, when the truck is in D (in 6th gear), and putting it into L, does it drop down two gears into L4? The same happens when in D (5th) and put it in L, it drops two gears down into L3? To me, logic suggests it should go from D(6) to L6 and similarly from D(5) to L5. This is on flat grade with no load. Sorry for the long post, Marv
  2. Thanks very much Njmurvin. I will give that a try. Marv
  3. Thanks very much for the replies. As a result of some, fairly regular, travel outside cell coverage (mostly during trips to/from Vancouver, BC and Denver, Co), I got used to using the OEM Navigation, but still have occasion to use Google Maps and Waze within the greater Vancouver area and/or Metro areas. So would still like access to both, and currently have the Apps downloaded on my phone. When not in the vehicle, I have noticed a much less power drain on the phone and when in the vehicle, especially on long drives, the phone uses more power, even when not using Maps/Waze. When I drive, even locally, I don't use any extraneous Apps and in fact, very very rarely even turn on the radio. I usually have OEM Navigation running. Because this power usage seems to be associated with using the truck, I merely thought there was a (wireless) connection between it and Google Maps/Waze, even though they are not visible on the dash screen (playing in the background??). So, as initially stated, I was wondering if these Apps could be set up on the phone, so they will not wirelessly operate in the background (if that is actually what is happening), but would be accessible if I plugged the phone in to the USB port in the truck. What I would prefer is not having to go into my phone settings and turn things off/on each time. So Njmurvin, is that what you mean by "try killing them before connecting to CarPlay."? Thanks for any added advice. Marv
  4. '22 Sierra HD. Know pretty well nothing in this area, so not even sure if I am asking the right question(s). When I first set up system, was able to use Google Maps/Waze without having to hardwire iPhone. Just kept phone on hip. Of course, also able to access telephone contacts etc. However, have discovered that the phone really loses power, and have read somewhere that Google Maps etc work in the background, even when not visible on the dash and draw iPhone power as a result. I do not use Google Maps/Waze much (use OEM navigation) and only in some rare cases may use either. A while ago, I thought I read a forum post (which I can't find or even recall which forum it may have been) about being able to disconnect the use of Maps/Waze wirelessly, but being able to access either by just plugging in the phone, and that prevents the constant power loss. And, of course, the phone gets powered while plugged in. Tried reading the Manual on this, but it all read like Greek to me. So, is there a way to have Maps/Waze available only through wired connection and not wirelessly. Or is it an all or nothing arrangement? The wife had me turn off a number of things on the phone, but when I turn on the truck, I still get the "Apple CarPlay Connected" and I can access Google Maps without plugging in the phone. Marv
  5. Neither of those lists hold all codes. I have a number which are not listed ('22 Sierra HD), in fact, after a lengthy search, I have yet to find a fully complete list. Marv
  6. Brandon Serio, Don't have mirrors to offer, but thought I would advise, if you are looking to trade out your mirrors for the smaller ones, just be careful which smaller mirrors you get. At time of ordering my '22 2500, I changed out my tow mirrors for the smaller ones, which were described on the GM website as having passenger side convex glass. However, when the truck arrived, I discovered the glass is flat. This results in a serious lack of blind-spot vision on the passenger side. So bad that since receipt I have had to turn out the mirror so far that I have no vision of the truck side or rear tire for backing up, and I have been endlessly searching for a quality add-on BSM (don't like the cheap plastic ones everyone seems to sell). Just make sure you get a mirror with some form of blind spot capability. Marv
  7. NWStever, Thanks for the reply. Is this secret the bona fide GMC instructed method or just something you have figured out? The reason I ask is, as mentioned, I perused the manual and the only thing it said was to lower, push the button down and release to stop, and to raise, do the opposite. And, this push/release, pull/release does work some times (that's why I mentioned that the full blast down/up surprises me at times as it often works as expected....then it doesn't). And I often wish to open/close half way or so (rather than just a crack) and it will proceed full when releasing the button. Just trying to determine if what is happening is intended. If not, I will have them fix it when I take it in for the other issue. Thanks again, Marv
  8. '22 Sierra SLE 2500HD. I have the power window controls on the armrest as well as the Express Window Down/Up control on the centre stack. I have had the truck for a couple months and have never used the Express Window feature. However, I have found that, intermittently, I will briefly press the window down button (armrest) to crack the driver's window down an inch or so, and it will not stop when I release the button, and will fully open (at quite a quick speed). If I try to stop the window from continuing to drop, and pull the button up, it will shoot back up to fully closed, even if I again release the button before it closes. As noted, this occurs intermittently, and without warning, so I find myself being surprised by the window not stopping and begin an up/down chase to get the window to stop where I want. Most of the time, after a few attempts, I just fully close it and give up. Strangely, I can try it a few minutes later and it will operate as it should and stop when I release the button. I read through the appropriate section(s) in the manual and see no reference to this but just want to make sure I have not inadvertently changed something in settings or similar to cause this behaviour. If anyone can offer advise/suggestions, much appreciated. Funny enough, while in getting an oil change the other day, I asked the service rep to check the 7 pin connection (having trailer brake issues and wanted to confirm the truck was not to blame). He attached a diagnostic tool and advised me it shows an issue with the brake and right side running lights. As his check was only cursory, he had me arrange an (possibly all day) appointment for next week so the tech can run a full diagnostic. I also wonder if the two issues may be related to a single module, although I don't know enough about these things to know if that is even remotely possible. Have had the truck for only a couple months and already...... Marv
  9. Aaah, thanks for the replies. Did not realize there was an unlock-only phase to the tailgate, just figured it unlatched/opened at the same time. Marv
  10. '22 Sierra HD, SLE. Reading the manual, and not sure if I am interpreting it correctly. States to unlock, using the driver's side door button, single push will unlock only driver's door, second push will unlock other doors and tailgate. Does that mean that double pressing that button, unlocks the tailgate, and is this the same as pressing the button on the tailgate? If so, how do I disable this feature so I don't open the tailgate every time I unlock the doors? The manual is not specific on this, that I can see. Marv
  11. '22 Sierra HD, gas. I have found that when filling the tank, it often overflows a bit when it reaches full. Today, it spit out about a quarter cup (all down the side). This can occur prior to attempting to remove the nozzle and even when I leave the nozzle in for a number of seconds, it is difficult to remove without some gas spilling (when removing, I now will drop the handle down and keep the nozzle up as much as possible, but still spits some gas). Occasionally, I can gas up without spillage but this is rare. And I am seemingly forever cleaning the paint after filling, which is getting to be a pain. This never occurred with previous truck (1500 6.2L gas) and I am wondering if it is related to the cap-less nozzle? Marv
  12. GMC4Zee, Thanks for the response. Yes, the auxiliary camera that I wish to acquire is hard wired (the camera comes with the 30ft cable which is routed from the rear of the trailer to the back bumper of the truck, and the current 7 pin/4 pin configuration on the truck has to be converted to a 7 pin/camera receptacle, which is also available through GM). What I don't know is if all the codes I listed means the camera won't work with my current system. At the time of ordering, I was assured the auxiliary camera would be compatible (in fact the manager tried to sell it to me there and then), but as I have been fed misinformation by the dealer on other issues, I wanted to check with other sources (this forum, maybe someone who has the same truck set-up and knows for sure) to see if I could get reliable info before ordering from the dealer. Marv
  13. mandrewbot3k, Thanks for the follow-up reply. Great link for the codes and a good read. During my initial searching, Longview was one of three brands which I thought may be compatible with my truck. See my comments further down-page. sheath, Thanks for the suggestion. Since my last post, I have ordered a set of CIPA mirrors from a local shop, although they have to be brought in from the warehouse in a neighbouring province, so will see if they fit when they arrive. If not, my next option will be etrailer. Thanks again, Marv
  14. mandrewbot3k, Thanks for the response and effort to obtain the couple pages you attached. Looks like I have the DLN code mirrors. As to your offer of the slide over mirrors, I will continue my search here and if unsuccessful, may very well give you a shout (although I am in need fairly soon as we will be heading down to Denver in June). And, can you advise where you located the couple pages of codes. I am looking for a full code list for my truck, but have only been able to find incomplete, old or unrelated codes. Thanks again, Marv
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