marpel

BuckWallace, thanks for the reply and information. I see your location is PNW, I presume that is the Pacific Northwest and you get as much rain as we do here in the Vancouver area, which is a comforting thought that your other vehicles have not leaked. My biggest concern is the replacement will leak (not because of the quality of the glass, but the install) and I will be stuck dealing with that issue. Some factory rear windows have leaked on these trucks, so if they can't even do it right in factory....

'22 Sierra 2500. Tried searching with no luck. Not sure about the rest of the world, but here in B.C., ICBC (vehicle insurance company) will full pay for a "fix" (inject a liquid plastic) of a windshield rock chip, which I had done about a month ago. Made it better but not invisible. And, as I seem to be a magnet for rock chips, suffered another one a few days ago (4th so far for this truck, go figure). Took the truck in to the same place and the rep measured the chip. Advised me ICBC will not authorize the same treatment as the affected area is within 3-23 inches (I think those were the numbers) of the screen edge and the drivers view is still impacted. The only option is a new screen, or I go to an "unauthorized" repair facility for the injection, which I am not prepared to do. So, my questions - Has anyone had a full windshield replacement and run into any subsequent issues? I have heard in the past that a replacement is nowhere near as good as a factory install and some have experienced leakage. But that may be old news, as I am not sure of the current state of things. And, when full replacement, does that include a new mirror, or do they remove and re-use the old? I also have a dash cam that is secured to the screen so that may be an issue as well (I ran the wire, tucked above the headliner and down the driver's side post - thinking it would be permanent). And the rep advised the replacement takes less than four hours, which seems pretty quick. I would have thought they would keep it over night.... Any comments welcome. Marv

If I recall, the Nav system update cards are VIN specific if they are from a legitimate source, so just make sure you're not paying $40 for a copy or knock-off that won't work with your truck. It's GM's way to keep us tethered.

Have you looked at Intellihaul 2.0 or 3.0 (year and trim level dependent I think)? However it does require some dash tear-apart I believe. I tore apart the dash on my prior Sierra and it was relatively easy if you take your time and watch a couple YT videos first. The other issue for you may be the price.... don't know your price ceiling.

'22 Sierra 2500HD, Iphone 16, with latest update(s). Don't know if this is an OEM or CarPlay issue, and doubt it is HD specific. For the last three years since purchase of the truck, whenever I received a text message, I would see a notice on the Infotainment screen and be verbally notified by a male voice that I had a message from "..." and verbally told what the message was. I would then be asked if I wished to respond, and I would usually say "No", to which the voice would state "Okay" and things would carry on. Or I would verbally respond and the system would send off that response. Lately, perhaps a couple weeks ago, I began receiving text messages with no notification, either verbally or on the screen. I would only discover a message after driving when I happened to check my phone. The reason I mentioned "perhaps a couple weeks ago" is for some of the messages, I was using the OEM Nav and thought it only occurred during its use so figured that was the way it was when the Nav was in operation. However, as time passed, I realized it was occurring all the time whether Nav was on or not. As I thought it may be CarPlay-update related, I went into the phone and changed a couple settings I thought may be related (not really tech savvy). Subsequent to this, I did a couple text tests and discovered I now get a "quiet" bing sound, then a female voice will tell me "..." has sent a text message, relay the message but still no screen notice nor does the voice ask if I wish to respond. To resond to anything of importance, I now have to find a place to stop and text on my phone. I did a net search and could only find a few old (2019-ish) posts about GM discontinuing the verbal text notice/interaction capability, but as they were pre '22 and contrary to my experiences, I figured they were unrelated and old news. Can someone confirm whether GM and/or CarPlay have changed their system within the last month or so and what I have experienced for the past three years is no longer available or - it is not GM and/or CarPlay related and I should be getting the same text notifications as I have in the past. In that case, perhaps then suggest what I need to do to solve this issue. Thanks in advance, Marv

Previously, '12 Sierra 1500 6.2L gas, currently, '22 Sierra 2500HD 6.6L gas. Drive a few times per year to/from Van BC, Can/Denver Co, USA so a lot of gas stops en-route. Every time I fill/filled both trucks when near 1/2 tank, the amount added is always more than the gauge would suggest (and I never go beyond when it auto click-stops). I actually pondered whether the tank was not symmetrical between upper half and lower half (or some components - pump etc sat on the bottom, taking up space) and the gauge was measuring the 1/2 way point vertically (ie if tank is 20 inches tall, the gauge measured 1/2 full at 10), rather than volume. But that would be silly.....

Kevin0311, Thanks for the info.

Same thing happened with my '12 6.2L Sierra and now my '22 6.6 Sierra HD does the same thing. Problem is it only happens at certain times and is difficult to understand exactly under what conditions (speed, wind direction etc). With the '12 sometimes even had to open the window, and turning the circulating air to in-cab seemed to help a bit, but those are a pain to do every time it happens. And this sort of thing shouldn't happen at all in this day and age (but I suppose that could be said for a lot of issues with these trucks). Was considering trying a cabin carbon filter to see if that helps. What does the linked ring actually do to stop the smell.

Ya, I was hoping the same thing, but wanted to make sure before committing. The site has a long (like real long) list of make/model/year/trim compatibility and about the only combination I couldn't find was my truck. Weird.

Did not realize there were further posts since the last time I visited this forum, so thanks to those who continued to post. Cody Quade, that is not the only thing they changed out without my knowledge/consent (long story). As far as searching, see the following as it may be a solution. EdinOhio, hopefully you are still around as I just followed your Oct 24 included link and those mirrors are exactly what I have been looking for. However, just want to clarify a couple things - My truck is a '22 GMC Sierra 2500HD and I checked the list of available mirrors and could not find a match although the same year Chev is listed. Are these two makes/models interchangeable regarding the mirrors? Did you only purchase and change out the glass and not full mirror? I presume that is an easy DIY? Is the blind spot portion moveable or is it stationary? Can you comment on quality, and is it glass and not plastic? And it looks like these are from China. Any delivery/delay issues? Thanks, Marv

Chadw90, Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy. Yes, I am from Canada (greater Vancouver, BC area). However we are about to drive to Denver, Co in a couple weeks (we usually drive to/from here/there a few times a year) and after buying a new controller, I was going to install it and take the trailer (thinking it would solve the issue). However, now that you are still experiencing issues, even with a new controller and module, I don't think I will go to the trouble right now just to have the problem persist. It was a pain the last trip, having to manually activate the controller at every stop on a 5000 km trip. Guess we will drive without the trailer and try a fix when we return. Marv

Chadw90, Thanks for the clarification. I doubt the dealer will be replacing my module on their dime, as it does not have any related recall notice and they have already told me the system is adequate to their standards, so it appears I will have to pay (even though the truck is only two years old....). Any idea whether that replacement can be a DIY process, and cost? I presume I will not have to change out the harness, just the module (and I suppose I will not have to replace the controller as initially thought). And any guess why your brakes appeared after installing the controller, then disappeared shortly thereafter? Marv

Okay, so I am really confused now, as it seems a couple different things are being discussed. Chadw90, In a couple of your posts, July 11, you discuss replacing the in-dash controller and "magically have brakes". However, a closely related trailer brake issue was introduced (re solar etc) and a tangent discussion developed (not complaining about that, at all). Then on Tuesday, you discussed taking your truck in for the module replacement and report that your amperage went up. Does this mean that replacing the in-dash controller did not solve the problem, or....? I ask, because I have purchased the in-dash controller but have yet to pull apart the dash to replace it, and if it won't solve the problem, I am not sure I want to go through that procedure. Or are you talking about something different?? Thanks, Marv

Thanks redwngr, It appears, at least by that article, that the Sierras are not included. Also wonder why they jumped '21, '22 and '23?

I thought about plugging the two holes, but wondered if having that pocket full of water quite often (it rains a lot here in SW British Columbia) can result in unintended splash when opening the tailgate. It seems to me that they designed the tailgate wrong, discovered the recess held water, and decided it was easier to just punch a couple holes rather than do a re-design (which they may eventually do anyway, go figure). I've owned many makes/models of trucks over the years, and I can't remember a time when it seems like all of them have been subject of so many issues and recalls. Is the quality declining, or is it just me?

1fast ss and rjgvt, Thanks for the response. Weird that the recall only refers to specific intermittent truck years and not ie 20-24. And, also weird that when setting up the Gain (with a just-topped up trailer battery) there was no braking even at Gain 10, and prior to the last trip of last year (again fully topped up trailer battery), again no brakes, however after a number of days during that trip, I noticed a slight improvement in the braking (perhaps trailer battery not as fully charged?). These were when applying the truck brake pedal, but I could get better brake action if using the manual application to the controller. I had a fleeting thought of showing the service rep this recall notice, but as I was recently told when I had exact same squealing brakes that is subject of a GM Recall (same make/model/year) "If you are not on the GM Recall Notice list, we ain't talking to you" (my paraphrase). So, it will be useless for this issue as well, I expect. Marv

SoCal Angler, Not sure if you are asking me, but if so, I did get the work done today and the only description/numbers I could find on the recall service paperwork, that may be related to part#s, is: "Recall # N232426400. Tailgate may open unexpectedly. 1012088 WM 1 85734717 SWITCH" (not sure if the second sentence is all one as 1012088 WM were on one line and the remaining was on a lower line). Comments then included "perform Inspect the number shown on the replacement switch. It pass number 3 replace the exterior tail gate switch assemblies." (not sure what the comments actually mean as I tried to ask the tech a couple questions about the replacement part and as he was not English-first-language, his English was pretty bad and I could not make out what he was saying. Not an intended slight on him or his country of origin, just reality.) Marv

It gets even better. I was just in the dealers today to get the Tailgate Switch recall taken care of. Out of curiosity, I asked the service rep how the replacement part was different from the one just removed. He looked around (to see if anyone was nearby) and quietly said that I should expect another recall in the near (fall/winter?) future, to replace this replacement part, as GM is discovering that the replacement part (which has been put in thousands of vehicles so far) isn't solving the problem. He even suggested that they may be replacing the tailgate trim as well. The current recall is ongoing as they are hoping the replacement part will last until something else can be figured out. Marv

rjgvt, Coincidently, I was in the dealers today getting the tailgate switch recall taken care of, and purchased a Brake Controller switch for my issue, while I was there. Can you advise if the recall you spoke of is for the '24s only and/or what site I can visit to view the recall notice you speak of? Marv

Chadw90, I called the Dealer Parts dept about whether they had a brake controller, and price, for my truck. After an incredibly long time on hold, he came back and indicated they had a few in stock and they were $382 (taxes and installation not included). When I questioned this price, he advised me that because the truck had an aftermarket brake controller system, I would need to buy the controller, full harness and control module, as the controller alone would not work with the a/m components. I advised him that I had the OEM controller/system from the factory (up to the point he told me I had an aftermarket, no-one had discussed this at all) and questioned the validity of the unavailability of just the controller. He again put me on hold and finally advised that they had just the controller and the price was $67. I have a service appointment this Friday (tailgate switch recall), but it seems every time I deal with this group, I am getting less confident in their abilities (long story). I am wondering if I can purchase the controller and install it myself, rather than have them do it on Friday. So, can you advise if you replaced the controller yourself and, if so, give me an idea if it is an easy DIY project? Thanks, Marv

Chadw90, You and I were typing and posting at exactly the same time, so I only read your last immediately after I submitted mine. So, just to be clear, you are talking about the manual brake controller on the dash, not the device recently mentioned that's located under the truck near the spare tire?? As soon as I know for sure, I will go out and get one, on my dime. Thanks, Marv

bruceb58, Agreed about the clamp meter. This may be the impetus for me to go out and get one. silverblazer, Thanks for the continued input. The problem with your belief about the "simplicity" of the system is, I have been unable to find anyone at the dealership with credentials (from techs all the way up to the service manager) who can actually tell me conclusively what does what and how. So if they don't know, how are us commoners supposed to know?.....

asilverblazer, Thanks for the detailed attachment (not sure if it actually confused me more or not). My (layperson's) takeaway is the driver has the most control of the system due to the necessity for setting the Gain and applying brake pedal pressure. Without that (ie Gain left at 0), the truck has no "guidance". In other words, it cannot send current (amps?) to the brakes, assess whether that current is sufficient and, if not, regulate that current. It just sends what the Controller tells it, based on the Gain setting, and the degree of brake pedal pressure. Less brake pressure, less amount of amps, more brake pressure, more amps sent, to the max of the Gain set by the driver. I think it is a more simplistic system than some give it credit. However, I may be way wrong on this.

If the system is designed to work seamlessly and the driver should not notice the application of the brakes, why have a gain control and allow the driver to set it from 0 to 10? And I wonder how the truck would know the condition of the trailer brakes and weight of the trailer, is that not the responsibility of the driver, who in turn sets the gain to ensure adequate brake application by the truck's system? With my previous truck, I could increase the gain until the trailer brakes locked and slid (around 7 and above). With the current truck, and same trailer, there is no noticeable difference between gain 0 and gain 10. But you are right, I suppose, without a definite output measurement (which is what I thought the dealership techs should have done), we will never really know.

Chadw90, Your recent posts about replacing the OEM controller is interesting. Until now, I did not realize they were available at such a reasonable price. However, is this a component that can be replaced by the owner, or is the job extensive and a shop has to tackle? This would impact the associated cost, of course. If the former, I may take a serious look at that as well. If you do the replacement, I would appreciate an update. Marv