marpel

davester, Thanks for clearing that up. Much appreciated.

Although there is a "recommended" weight by those who sell trailers, my experience has been that they are way too aggressive in their information, for me at least. My '22 with 6.6 Gas, has a payload of about 3400 lbs and depending on your specs (I don't have 4WD so it has a bit higher Payload than others) yours will likely be different. Payload is one of the most important numbers for towing. Although you "could" tow the max trailer weight for your truck, I, personally, would not go close to that number. Having said that, a lot depends on how/where you will be towing. I live in the LMD of BC and often tow to Denver, Co, along interstates (flat and mountains) and I find I need to keep it in 5th (6spd) for the trip and travel at around 65mph. This is for a trailer dry weight of just under 3500lbs. If you are only doing local, short trips, it would not be that big an issue if you had a heavier unit. You will be surprised how much stuff you load the trailer with, so I would only recognize the trailers "full" GVWR weight rating, then decide on the appropriate trailer from that number. If you are worrying about how much stuff you should be putting in a trailer, you might have too large a rig from the get-go. Once again, depending on what terrain/distance in which you will be pulling. Marv

davester, Thanks for the response, how ever, I think I am now a bit more confused than I was before I posted - - After I posted, I actually found a YT video of a guy who replaced his Module (above tire) and he only disconnected the ground cable of the battery, but you describe rubbing the two cables together after disconnecting. I presume that is to do as you describe and eliminate any residual energy? - When I picked up the Module (between my posting and reading your response) from the dealer, I specifically asked about any re-programming and he stated it was not necessary as it was simply plug and play. Don't know how knowledgeable he is, though. - The video I watched also showed the Module plug to be difficult to "unlock" and remove, but there was no mention of silicone, although the video did show a bunch of dust/dirt in and around the plug (old truck) during removal. Are you talking about silicone that was applied by the factory, or silicone that you applied prior to plugging in? Thanks again, Marv

'22 Sierra 2500HD. Just want to confirm, Am about to replace the Trailer Brake Control Module (the thing above the spare tire), and then may replace the Trailer Brake Controller (in-dash device). I understand, at least for the Module replacement, that the vehicle battery needs to be disconnected. So, a couple questions - Is it necessary to disconnect the battery for both procedures? - Is there a difference, in any resultant electronic issues, on how long a battery is disconnected? IE does it matter if the battery is disconnected for an hour as opposed to over night? - And, for replacement of both items, is there a requirement to "re-boot" any system(s). I have been led to believe that the Module is less of an issue than the Controller, but it has been suggested that a trip to the dealer may be necessary after the Controller is replaced. Any advice is welcome. Marv

BuckWallace, thanks for the reply and information. I see your location is PNW, I presume that is the Pacific Northwest and you get as much rain as we do here in the Vancouver area, which is a comforting thought that your other vehicles have not leaked. My biggest concern is the replacement will leak (not because of the quality of the glass, but the install) and I will be stuck dealing with that issue. Some factory rear windows have leaked on these trucks, so if they can't even do it right in factory....

'22 Sierra 2500. Tried searching with no luck. Not sure about the rest of the world, but here in B.C., ICBC (vehicle insurance company) will full pay for a "fix" (inject a liquid plastic) of a windshield rock chip, which I had done about a month ago. Made it better but not invisible. And, as I seem to be a magnet for rock chips, suffered another one a few days ago (4th so far for this truck, go figure). Took the truck in to the same place and the rep measured the chip. Advised me ICBC will not authorize the same treatment as the affected area is within 3-23 inches (I think those were the numbers) of the screen edge and the drivers view is still impacted. The only option is a new screen, or I go to an "unauthorized" repair facility for the injection, which I am not prepared to do. So, my questions - Has anyone had a full windshield replacement and run into any subsequent issues? I have heard in the past that a replacement is nowhere near as good as a factory install and some have experienced leakage. But that may be old news, as I am not sure of the current state of things. And, when full replacement, does that include a new mirror, or do they remove and re-use the old? I also have a dash cam that is secured to the screen so that may be an issue as well (I ran the wire, tucked above the headliner and down the driver's side post - thinking it would be permanent). And the rep advised the replacement takes less than four hours, which seems pretty quick. I would have thought they would keep it over night.... Any comments welcome. Marv

If I recall, the Nav system update cards are VIN specific if they are from a legitimate source, so just make sure you're not paying $40 for a copy or knock-off that won't work with your truck. It's GM's way to keep us tethered.

Have you looked at Intellihaul 2.0 or 3.0 (year and trim level dependent I think)? However it does require some dash tear-apart I believe. I tore apart the dash on my prior Sierra and it was relatively easy if you take your time and watch a couple YT videos first. The other issue for you may be the price.... don't know your price ceiling.

'22 Sierra 2500HD, Iphone 16, with latest update(s). Don't know if this is an OEM or CarPlay issue, and doubt it is HD specific. For the last three years since purchase of the truck, whenever I received a text message, I would see a notice on the Infotainment screen and be verbally notified by a male voice that I had a message from "..." and verbally told what the message was. I would then be asked if I wished to respond, and I would usually say "No", to which the voice would state "Okay" and things would carry on. Or I would verbally respond and the system would send off that response. Lately, perhaps a couple weeks ago, I began receiving text messages with no notification, either verbally or on the screen. I would only discover a message after driving when I happened to check my phone. The reason I mentioned "perhaps a couple weeks ago" is for some of the messages, I was using the OEM Nav and thought it only occurred during its use so figured that was the way it was when the Nav was in operation. However, as time passed, I realized it was occurring all the time whether Nav was on or not. As I thought it may be CarPlay-update related, I went into the phone and changed a couple settings I thought may be related (not really tech savvy). Subsequent to this, I did a couple text tests and discovered I now get a "quiet" bing sound, then a female voice will tell me "..." has sent a text message, relay the message but still no screen notice nor does the voice ask if I wish to respond. To resond to anything of importance, I now have to find a place to stop and text on my phone. I did a net search and could only find a few old (2019-ish) posts about GM discontinuing the verbal text notice/interaction capability, but as they were pre '22 and contrary to my experiences, I figured they were unrelated and old news. Can someone confirm whether GM and/or CarPlay have changed their system within the last month or so and what I have experienced for the past three years is no longer available or - it is not GM and/or CarPlay related and I should be getting the same text notifications as I have in the past. In that case, perhaps then suggest what I need to do to solve this issue. Thanks in advance, Marv

Previously, '12 Sierra 1500 6.2L gas, currently, '22 Sierra 2500HD 6.6L gas. Drive a few times per year to/from Van BC, Can/Denver Co, USA so a lot of gas stops en-route. Every time I fill/filled both trucks when near 1/2 tank, the amount added is always more than the gauge would suggest (and I never go beyond when it auto click-stops). I actually pondered whether the tank was not symmetrical between upper half and lower half (or some components - pump etc sat on the bottom, taking up space) and the gauge was measuring the 1/2 way point vertically (ie if tank is 20 inches tall, the gauge measured 1/2 full at 10), rather than volume. But that would be silly.....

Kevin0311, Thanks for the info.

Same thing happened with my '12 6.2L Sierra and now my '22 6.6 Sierra HD does the same thing. Problem is it only happens at certain times and is difficult to understand exactly under what conditions (speed, wind direction etc). With the '12 sometimes even had to open the window, and turning the circulating air to in-cab seemed to help a bit, but those are a pain to do every time it happens. And this sort of thing shouldn't happen at all in this day and age (but I suppose that could be said for a lot of issues with these trucks). Was considering trying a cabin carbon filter to see if that helps. What does the linked ring actually do to stop the smell.

Ya, I was hoping the same thing, but wanted to make sure before committing. The site has a long (like real long) list of make/model/year/trim compatibility and about the only combination I couldn't find was my truck. Weird.

Did not realize there were further posts since the last time I visited this forum, so thanks to those who continued to post. Cody Quade, that is not the only thing they changed out without my knowledge/consent (long story). As far as searching, see the following as it may be a solution. EdinOhio, hopefully you are still around as I just followed your Oct 24 included link and those mirrors are exactly what I have been looking for. However, just want to clarify a couple things - My truck is a '22 GMC Sierra 2500HD and I checked the list of available mirrors and could not find a match although the same year Chev is listed. Are these two makes/models interchangeable regarding the mirrors? Did you only purchase and change out the glass and not full mirror? I presume that is an easy DIY? Is the blind spot portion moveable or is it stationary? Can you comment on quality, and is it glass and not plastic? And it looks like these are from China. Any delivery/delay issues? Thanks, Marv

Chadw90, Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy. Yes, I am from Canada (greater Vancouver, BC area). However we are about to drive to Denver, Co in a couple weeks (we usually drive to/from here/there a few times a year) and after buying a new controller, I was going to install it and take the trailer (thinking it would solve the issue). However, now that you are still experiencing issues, even with a new controller and module, I don't think I will go to the trouble right now just to have the problem persist. It was a pain the last trip, having to manually activate the controller at every stop on a 5000 km trip. Guess we will drive without the trailer and try a fix when we return. Marv

Chadw90, Thanks for the clarification. I doubt the dealer will be replacing my module on their dime, as it does not have any related recall notice and they have already told me the system is adequate to their standards, so it appears I will have to pay (even though the truck is only two years old....). Any idea whether that replacement can be a DIY process, and cost? I presume I will not have to change out the harness, just the module (and I suppose I will not have to replace the controller as initially thought). And any guess why your brakes appeared after installing the controller, then disappeared shortly thereafter? Marv

Okay, so I am really confused now, as it seems a couple different things are being discussed. Chadw90, In a couple of your posts, July 11, you discuss replacing the in-dash controller and "magically have brakes". However, a closely related trailer brake issue was introduced (re solar etc) and a tangent discussion developed (not complaining about that, at all). Then on Tuesday, you discussed taking your truck in for the module replacement and report that your amperage went up. Does this mean that replacing the in-dash controller did not solve the problem, or....? I ask, because I have purchased the in-dash controller but have yet to pull apart the dash to replace it, and if it won't solve the problem, I am not sure I want to go through that procedure. Or are you talking about something different?? Thanks, Marv

Thanks redwngr, It appears, at least by that article, that the Sierras are not included. Also wonder why they jumped '21, '22 and '23?

I thought about plugging the two holes, but wondered if having that pocket full of water quite often (it rains a lot here in SW British Columbia) can result in unintended splash when opening the tailgate. It seems to me that they designed the tailgate wrong, discovered the recess held water, and decided it was easier to just punch a couple holes rather than do a re-design (which they may eventually do anyway, go figure). I've owned many makes/models of trucks over the years, and I can't remember a time when it seems like all of them have been subject of so many issues and recalls. Is the quality declining, or is it just me?

1fast ss and rjgvt, Thanks for the response. Weird that the recall only refers to specific intermittent truck years and not ie 20-24. And, also weird that when setting up the Gain (with a just-topped up trailer battery) there was no braking even at Gain 10, and prior to the last trip of last year (again fully topped up trailer battery), again no brakes, however after a number of days during that trip, I noticed a slight improvement in the braking (perhaps trailer battery not as fully charged?). These were when applying the truck brake pedal, but I could get better brake action if using the manual application to the controller. I had a fleeting thought of showing the service rep this recall notice, but as I was recently told when I had exact same squealing brakes that is subject of a GM Recall (same make/model/year) "If you are not on the GM Recall Notice list, we ain't talking to you" (my paraphrase). So, it will be useless for this issue as well, I expect. Marv

SoCal Angler, Not sure if you are asking me, but if so, I did get the work done today and the only description/numbers I could find on the recall service paperwork, that may be related to part#s, is: "Recall # N232426400. Tailgate may open unexpectedly. 1012088 WM 1 85734717 SWITCH" (not sure if the second sentence is all one as 1012088 WM were on one line and the remaining was on a lower line). Comments then included "perform Inspect the number shown on the replacement switch. It pass number 3 replace the exterior tail gate switch assemblies." (not sure what the comments actually mean as I tried to ask the tech a couple questions about the replacement part and as he was not English-first-language, his English was pretty bad and I could not make out what he was saying. Not an intended slight on him or his country of origin, just reality.) Marv

It gets even better. I was just in the dealers today to get the Tailgate Switch recall taken care of. Out of curiosity, I asked the service rep how the replacement part was different from the one just removed. He looked around (to see if anyone was nearby) and quietly said that I should expect another recall in the near (fall/winter?) future, to replace this replacement part, as GM is discovering that the replacement part (which has been put in thousands of vehicles so far) isn't solving the problem. He even suggested that they may be replacing the tailgate trim as well. The current recall is ongoing as they are hoping the replacement part will last until something else can be figured out. Marv

rjgvt, Coincidently, I was in the dealers today getting the tailgate switch recall taken care of, and purchased a Brake Controller switch for my issue, while I was there. Can you advise if the recall you spoke of is for the '24s only and/or what site I can visit to view the recall notice you speak of? Marv

Chadw90, I called the Dealer Parts dept about whether they had a brake controller, and price, for my truck. After an incredibly long time on hold, he came back and indicated they had a few in stock and they were $382 (taxes and installation not included). When I questioned this price, he advised me that because the truck had an aftermarket brake controller system, I would need to buy the controller, full harness and control module, as the controller alone would not work with the a/m components. I advised him that I had the OEM controller/system from the factory (up to the point he told me I had an aftermarket, no-one had discussed this at all) and questioned the validity of the unavailability of just the controller. He again put me on hold and finally advised that they had just the controller and the price was $67. I have a service appointment this Friday (tailgate switch recall), but it seems every time I deal with this group, I am getting less confident in their abilities (long story). I am wondering if I can purchase the controller and install it myself, rather than have them do it on Friday. So, can you advise if you replaced the controller yourself and, if so, give me an idea if it is an easy DIY project? Thanks, Marv

Chadw90, You and I were typing and posting at exactly the same time, so I only read your last immediately after I submitted mine. So, just to be clear, you are talking about the manual brake controller on the dash, not the device recently mentioned that's located under the truck near the spare tire?? As soon as I know for sure, I will go out and get one, on my dime. Thanks, Marv