CamGTP

Okiee dokie there bud, way to take things to the extreme. I guess you missed the whole point and take things way to serious. I installed different EV6 style injectors that just so happen to be larger in my car running the same LQ4 engine and with a better spray pattern than the stock style injectors and I noticed no difference in the idle quality. Kinda was my round about way of saying that even if you put the same size but better style injectors in your truck, you will likely see the same thing. I'm sure you're great to have conversations with in person if that's how you act through a keyboard. One little things sets you off and now I guess my dick is all up in your face.

While it may be true that multi hole injectors atomize the fuel better, it ain't going to make a difference on your stock truck. I have USCAR EV6 50lb/hr injectors in my turbo 6.0 foxbody with stock cam/valvetrain, I didn't notice a smoother idle or overall driving with just the larger injectors. Even if they put out 26lb/hr at 4 bar pressure like you need, all of the other data won't be the same as the GM data. The offset vs volts, short pulse adder, min pulse width and flow rate data all need to match the injectors installed, no way all of that stuff would be the same.

Why is my question? Any change in injectors requires a tune. Unless you are going back with the OEM part number or a newer part number of that same injector. Any size difference or type difference like the EV6 style injectors all have different injector data for them. And there is no EV6 injector that matches the factory 25 lb/hr size that your truck comes with. I've been messing with these trucks and tuning them for a long time and what you trying to do doesn't exactly make sense to me.

$4.19 for 87 and Diesel back over $5.00 now.

To me it honestly makes zero difference what filter you run. It's not a race engine, just a truck engine that's mostly bumming highways and it just needs a filter that filters oil. The filter used to be a 7060 and the long version was a 7045. Now it's the newer updated filter that the K2XX trucks and newer run, the 100255 I believe if we are using napa numbers. Any of those filters is going to do the job. I wouldn't overthink it, to me it makes no difference because those first filter numbers worked for 18+ years before the spec suddenly changed.

Different wheels for sure.

I still saw people out for runs, on their bikes/motorcylces, jeeps with the doors off driving around here the past 2 days. I guess we are just used to it here haha. Tasted like a bonfire the last 2 days.

The TCM has to be flashed before it can drive. If you installed it the way it is, it has the OS (operating system/program) from the 2010 truck you got it from. That will not match with the VIN/OS pair that your 2013 truck has. You can do the full install. Then tow it to a dealership and they can flash the trucks PCM/TCM with the latest program for your VIN.

$4.00 a gallon here now. Diesel nearly $5.00 again.

The 8 speed isn't a bad transmission at all. They just have common issues like any transmission. Ideally you'd like to find a low mileage truck or find a truck with good service history or maybe even a factory rebuilt transmission already in it.

I mean either way works. My transmission temps stay in the 130-150's just cruising around in the summer, pushes into the 160-180's if I tow but they settle lower on longer drives.

Hit mid 90's today. Even at the boarder of Canada and up by Duluth it was in the 90's. Going to be like this all week. Sure it's nothing like the south seeing 100's but they do say it's a different kind of heat here with all the lakes/water and humid days.

Pill flip on the transmission cooler lines is a 100% must do thing too.

Pushing $4.00 a gallon in most places, still $3.75 in town but it's going to spike tomorrow for sure. Diesel back up to $4.60-5.00.

Either there was a minor casting defect in the rotor from the factory and it took 60,000+ miles of wear to make it surface as the rotor got thinner. Or something got picked up and it fused to the rotor by the heat from braking. Likely the first one in my eyes. GM will do nothing for you. It's a 6 year old vehicle and brakes are not covered on any sort of warranty at this time. I've worked in the repair industry as well as selling parts for over 15 years now. Even the highest end factory rotors or aftermarket rotors can have defects that come to light over a period of time. Buy yourself some new rotors/pads and all will be good. If you don't go back with GM parts I suggest new Platinum Rotors and Adaptive One pads from Napa. Never had any real issues running their parts.

Paid $2.72 for E85 today.

87 octane for $3.56 today. Diesel at one place hit $3.99 today too.

$3.69 for 87. $4.09 for Diesel. Same thing though, a few cities away or even into Wisconsin it's $5.00 a gallon still and they all get it from the same damn place.

They will fit with a spacer to clear but I know many people don't like that.

It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's. Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.

$3.69 for 87 octane. $4.24 for Diesel in town.

$3.84 in town for 87 octane. Diesel swings wildly, it's $4.39 in town but saw prices of $5.00 still other places.

Can I ask if you are having issues with the current coils? With all of my years around LS engines, the stock coils are the best hands down. If they aren't giving you any problems, do no change them. They can go 200-300k miles easy without a hiccup.

$3.93 for 87 octane. $4.73 for 93 octane. $4.70ish for diesel. But a short drive can see prices swings as high as $5.30's still.

Sounds like a nice deal in the end.