CamGTP

Hard to say for sure. If it is the coil pack it will for sure trip the code on cylinder 1 when it does fail again. Otherwise you still have the spark plug, the wire or the fuel injector that could be it too. That is, if it's not a lifter problem but usually once a lifter fails it's failed forever because they stay collapsed.

If the two trucks you had did have different options, that could have changed the fuel mileage ratings. Like rear end gearing, transmissions and tire sizes.

If it is a factory thermostat, it is opening early in my opinion. Like he said, a stock thermostat should be keeping you in that 192-200 degree range just about all the time.

1. Not sure on that one, wonder if that is listed in the owners manual though. 2. From a legal standpoint, no you can't. If you got caught by a sheriff/DOT officer and they actually went through everything, you could be fined for towing more than allowed by the truck. Also if there were factory parts that you could buy to get the max towing allowed for a truck with your engine/transmission, the GM dealer is not going to re-program your truck for those changes or give you a new door sticker with new ratings. 3. It's all about looks. 4. I guess that depends on what you are looking for. Lots of interior and exterior stuff you can buy but many of the performance based stuff is down to a handful of stuff. More for the V8 trucks than the Turbo 4 Cylinder truck. GM made it far more difficult to mod these new truck so it's either taking much longer to produce parts or the people that make the stuff just don't plan to do it because R&D costs are too high.

I'd be looking at the temp sensor being the problem.

Maybe? I only replaced the plugs on my truck at 96,000ish miles and reused the stock wires because they are some of the best OEM wires out there. My truck is a 2016 and has 117,000 miles on it now. Seen OEM wires last well over 150k miles without issue too. It wouldn't hurt that's for sure, so for the $100 it costs to do the work it may be worth the peace of mind.

Pretty much nothing is different, it's all carry over parts on the LTD's. I could only assume that aftermarket plug in programmers for a 2021 work on a LTD 2022. Best to contact whatever company that makes the parts to double check.

Ease of use if you ask me. One touch drop instead of hitting all 4 switches. I'd use it in the summer months to get the heat out quickly. I always use my key fob to roll all 4 of windows down while I walk up to my truck when I leave work.

It will run worse. 85% ethanol requires roughly 30% more fuel all the time to run like it would on regular fuel. The computers can only compensate so much if you did pump it full of E85. Usually it will start worse, use much more fuel than normal and under heavy throttle it will run lean because it can't put enough fuel in. Plus most OEM's don't give a lot of headroom on stock non flex fuel injectors or fuel pumps. Like for example a 2004 Silverado 5.3 with non flex fuel injectors doesn't have 30% more headroom to run that fuel.

Depends on the vehicle and if the computer is able to use an E85 (alcohol) sensor.

It's a flammable liquid, could use starting fluid as well. I use brake cleaner to start just about everything because it's very flammable.

Does it start if you spray some brake cleaner into the intake tube? If it does, you have a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't, then it's a spark problem.

A $8 can of exhaust paint can stop rust too lol.

A tune would make all the check engine lights go off. You can't even start the truck after the DOD delete without a tune.

Are you talking about physically removing all the parts or just wanting to install a AFM/DoD device that turns it off. One is many thousands of dollars to do and the other only costs like $150. If you removed all the parts, it would have to be re-tuned by a shop and they would have to turn off all the error codes that come with that. The cheaper plug in device should never cause a check engine light.

Exhaust and intake companies will say they're gains because in one small section from say 2800-3400rpm it gained 15hp or some crap so they slap that on the box. The .8 seconds it spends in that rpm section is totally noticeable.

Around here E85 or really any added "E" is hit and miss on where the prices will be. In town the 88 octane will be only 5 cents cheaper than 87 and E85 is only 30 cents cheaper. But if I drive a few miles away or even half way across the twin cities a different station will be 25 cents cheaper for 88 octane and E85 will be over a $1 less a gallon. It's easy to spot the stations that try to rake in the profits on E15 or E85 fuels. It's been this way for years too, even before all these world wide and local issues happened. I will gladly drive an extra 10 minutes to save $20 or more when I fill my truck with E85.

Don't torque them to be honest. The transmission case is aluminum so it doesn't need to be very tight and the radiators can strip/crack if just because they want to. Snug them down and call it good, I never have them leak.

Paid $2.79 a gallon for E85 like 2 weeks ago and paid $4.04 yesterday for 88 octane to fill up the car.

Did you crush the crush washers? I snug the bolt up pretty good, smack the bolt or the back of the socket with a hammer to "crush" the washer a little and then snug it up again.

Those are OEM on all Sierra's. The fenders and box sides are designed with the flares in mind, they are stamped different and have premade holes for the "flares".

Possible that you can ask the dealership to re-program the truck for the other factory size tire. No idea what that would cost. Or get a aftermarket tire size re-calibrator to fix it. \ From the looks of it you're going from a 31.6in tall tire to a 34in tall tire, so you're speedo will be off by nearly 5mph at 60 and over 6mph at 80.

Don't let the people that spent $1,000 on a cat-back exhaust see this thread, they will get mad that you didn't spend more money to gain absolutely nothing.

Without pictures I will just say "yes". The best thing for you to do would be to buy a can of degreaser from the parts store, I like the foamy stuff. Let it sit on a cool engine for a little bit, spray it down a few times and then hose it off. I suggest doing this in the street because you're driveway won't like it. See how clean you can get and start watching where the leak is coming from over a few days/week or so. If it's slinging the oil like you say, the front seal is a likely source of the problem.

The 6.2 camshaft just has different specs because of the size of the engine. The L83 camshaft can be used but it's likely to produce less power. So it is a step backwards.