CamGTP

13k sounds about right for a 11 year old truck with 160k on it. My 2016 with 128k isn't worth much more than 16-18k to be honest.

Being a 1999, those used cast iron cylinder heads with what I recall were some sort of fiber/paper headgasket. The later years got aluminum cylinder heads and MLS headgaskets. The early trucks were more prone to headgasket failure from what I remember. Not the end of the world but would be nice to know there were any history records on the truck. If you're lucky, maybe someone already swapped in a new engine in the 26 years that thing has been around. Transmissions are strong being a 4L80e, but like said they can die from lack of fluid changes or it was a plow truck/pulled heavy trailers everyday. Frame rot is a big killer in the salt states. Always check that first.

I see that all the time when people short trip their vehicles.

Assuming you have stamped steel control arms for both, I came up with around $750ish for OEM parts if I bought them online. MOOG parts were between $400 and $500 depending on which arms you went with. So their prices for parts sounds about right with mark ups. Hard to say on labor rates. The upper arms probably only call for 1.0-1.5hr each, I don't have the Mitchel catalog here at home to check that. The lowers are a little more involved because the strut bolts to them and there is added labor time for that. My street math put them in that $180 an hour or so figure. I'd call around to a few places just to see what others may charge. With non OEM parts and cheaper labor rates you could be in this thing for probably $500 less.

Did they give you printed quote? What are they charging just for the parts and what is their labor rate? Labor rate and part mark up is going to a huge factor here. Some shops are $150 an hour and others might be $200. You can do some digging here pretty easy to see how much things are going for. You could call a local dealer to price control arms as a walk in customer, then see what they are charging you for the same part. Around here at many independents if the part is $100, you get charged $200 with the markup. Also OEM isn't a must do. Other parts like MOOG or Delphi make good parts too.

My opinion is that sub 100 degrees is too cool. Even on the older 6L80e's before the thermostats were installed I would see 100-115 degrees in the winter, it did take a little while to reach that though. Temps above 100 is fine, if you drive the truck harder, the temps will climb higher slightly but not always doable when you are just bombing down the freeway. At the rate you are now if you were here in Minnesota, we are already seeing temps in the single digits in the morning so you'd be lucky to reach over 80 degrees it seems. Tomorrows low is -8 or so, going to be chilly.

Unless you work for HP Tuners you'll never really know how they go about it, but the few of us that own HP Tuners and do tuning have a good idea. Technically they probably are doing some circuit board mods to allow the HP Tuners software to flash it without being connected to the GM network. Roughly $1,500 for PCM/TCM tuning, cost includes unlock fees and credits to license the computers.

Complainers.

Looks good enough for me. Still makes me wonder why the top of the tailgate is like the weakest spot, can't they make it tougher because I see so many damn trucks on the road with the same style dents. But you see an old beat to hell 80's or 90's truck and the tops of the tailgates look way better still lol.

Mine just died about 3-4 weeks ago. It made it 9 years on the factory starter, turns over way faster than it ever did now.

If your truck doesn't have the buttons on the door handle, you can't really add them to the truck as far as I know.

It's an AI video. The engine being shown is the LSA engine, same one in the CTS-V and ZL1 Camaro from the 2009ish and beyond years.

I don't know how loaded your truck is and the options package, so that makes it hard to know what mirror you need. I see the power mirror, with camera and blindspot is roughly $413 without the cover. Then you'd need to buy the cover separate. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2021-gmc-sierra-1500--denali--6-2l-v8-gas/body--outside-mirrors

Tons of codes need to shut off if you replaced the camshaft with a Non-AFM camshaft. So it's likely whoever did the first programming never went through the entire list to turn off those off and just did the simple enable/disable drop down like everyone does if the hard parts are staying.

I went up north deer hunting this weekend. The farther I got from the big cities, the more the price kept dropping. I paid $2.53 a gallon at a station on my way home, while all the stations in town where I live are still at $3.17 a gallon. Most other stations up that way were around $2.80ish a gallon.

I'm "rebuilding" a 6.0 for my Foxbody LS swap project. No idea on the miles or anything, just that it was a sludge monster lol. Lots of skipped oil changes from the looks of it but the bottom end seems solid and the camshaft/lifters had no defects/bad lobes. Hot tanked the oil pan and cylinder heads to clean them up and waiting on a full gasket kit to put it back together for the most part.

Does it feel gritty? Kinda looks like metal/clutch material in the bottom of the pan. Either from torque converter clutch or the clutch packs inside the transmission.

Was $2.89 yesterday and somehow jumped to $3.29 today. Make that make sense. No change in the market, no change is anything. No weather change, just dumb.

Might have been a typo but they had 3.6's in the GM's. Keep up on fluid changes is the biggest thing. Fresh oil to keep timing chains happy. I'd change the transmission fluid well before the book says too. Same with the diff oil. Past that I don't hear many stories on new vehicles like that but I also don't work at the dealer.

Looks normal or any plug that sits basically inside the engine it's entire life. Seen far worse that still ran fine.

The threaded water pump pulley on your truck has nothing connected to it, that is where the clutch fan would attach if it did have one. Your truck has electric fans, so the job takes less time to do. Remove the air intake, remove the belt, drain the coolant and you can pretty much start removing the water pump right after that.

The weep hole is going to be under the pulley because that is where the water pump impeller is. That leak looks to be from the gasket between the water pump and the engine block. The water pump needs to be removed to clean it all up and replace it. 2006's are really easy for pumps, don't need to worry about the clutch fan.

Honestly with the millions of tires produced every year for so many different vehicles, things do just happen to tires sometimes. Also it's always possible that even if you don't think you ever hit anything, objects that are really hard to see can be sticking up in the pavement and cut the sidewall of a tire as a vehicle passes, causing a failure. I haven't heard anything specific to those tires recently. A few years back the Goodyear tire failures were posted a few times on here. I've worked in the tire business for 15+ years now, kinda see it from every tire brand out there. If there is legitimate concerns with batches of tires, they do send out recalls and have stop sales when it happens. The LT tires are under more stress with higher tire pressures, checking for sidewall damage, and ripples or bubbles should be done more often. Exactly why pre-trip inspections are required for Class A/B trucking and anything DOT related.

Yeah that doesn't make much sense. The fuel system is still the same on a 2014 Flex fuel Silverado and on a 2015+ non flex fuel truck. The injectors, lines, pump are all the same. It's just missing the sensor. Even the factory harness is on the frame for trucks all the way to 2018. It's like 3 simple tables to change. Import the stoich table from a 2014 file, import the power enrichment commanded air fuel ratio for full throttle and import the timing table differences if required. The truck does everything else for you once enabled.

Good chance you'd set a check engine light for lower temp thermostats, there is a code for coolant undertemp. Honestly 190F is about the perfect temps for coolant, though the engine will run closer to 200F degrees most of the time in warmer weather. That's still less than the L83/L86 trucks that came with 207F degree factory thermostats. With the DI engines I guess technically fuel in the oil is still possible if the engine can't reach proper temp. The hotter the coolant temp, the cleaner the engine should run though. If OEM's could run engines at 250F, they would already be doing it because it would be more efficient, but that is just not possible. Rubber, gaskets and seals won't hold up over time to those temps.