I set mine to 130 although the speedometer goes to 140. Took it to 120 and it was rock solid and still climbing fast. No doubt in my mind that it would peg 140 if I so chose. What I like most is the throttle sensitivity increase. No lag whatsoever and even seems to change the trans mission up shift and downshift points. Full power now at the hit. Got to be careful because it will break the tires loose under 40 mph. Once I replace these T rated tires with some new H rated Bridgestone shoes I won't be nervous about taking it all the way.
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well, almost 2 weeks have gone by and I have driven right at 500 miles and many start stops along the way. So far the AFM/DFM unit has worked to perfection. NO codes have been thrown and the automatic start stop is no longer a PITA. As for fuel mileage I can't tell since most of the driving has been in town. I still average around 15 mpg in town driving. 2019 High Country 6.2l 4x4 crew
So I went ahead and picked up one from Summit Racing near me and plugged it in. Started and drove about 30 miles and so far it's working like it should. V8 sound all the time. With the Borla catback exhaust it now sounds like a truck all the time. No engine stop at redlights. So far so good. Will drive it some more and report back in a few days. I did keep the box and receipts just in case.
I inquired about this issue to the Range tech dept. Here is their answer: We unfortunately do not officially support the 10 speed vehicles yet. The units that we currently have will generally work for the 10 speed vehicles, but there are some minor kinks that still need to be worked out with them before we officially release anything. this tells me that it may or may not work with the 2019 10 speed new body style
Had it on my 2019 High Country when it was brand new. Ended up being an exhaust pipe the was touching the frame. Dealer fixed it. Sounded and felt like driving over rumble strips. I thought it may have been the flapper valves or the torque converter or the tranny but that was not it. Get it up on a rack and look for any place the exhaust pipes may be touching any part of the frame or underbody loosen pipe clamps and adjust clearance.
I did the Borla S type and then added back the stock resonators. Perfect sound for me. Mellow with no resonance drone and still talks to you when you nail it. Performance gain is iffy but the CAI made up the difference. 70-75 mph it is just as quiet inside the truck as it was with stock exhaust.
The underlying and root problems of driveshaft failure has been addressed several times in tech bulletins and other research. Aluminium centrifuges spin at a rate of 12,000 to 90,000 rpm or up to 1500 rps and don't blow up. Drive shafts spin at a fraction of that. Research has shown that most failure aside from external damage like high centering on a boulder or something, are caused by several other factors. 1. U joint sync 2. runout caused by worn or defective drive spline which is the main cause of u joint sync problems. 3. shaft out of balance. 4. incorrect drive line angle. can we say lifted trucks 5. improper seating of the u joint bearing caps in the yoke cradle If any of these items are out of parameter then high rpm harmonics can and will destroy the shaft. Plenty of data on how to check these items and repair or correct. One of the main culprits has been output and input spline misalignment, wear and just poor quality in manufacture from 3rd party outsourcing of parts. There are GM tech bulletins on it as well. I'm not saying that GM isn't at fault because they are. Cheap labor in Mexico perhaps during assembly. There is also an android app called NVH that can be purchased that will identify and pinpoint vibration locations and root causes. NVH is expensive at $400. Don't think for a minute that NASCAR and NHRA top teams don't have tools to check and fix these errors. These types of driveline vibrations gone to the extreme will destroy any long shaft regardless of what it's made of. Also google youtube videos of how to check driveshaft balancing. There is a free phone app that will measure sync angles for the u joints.
I am much more concerned with runout and weak U-joints and incorrect u-joint bearing cup seating which does lead to excessive shaft runout than I am about the shaft itself. IF you have qualms about your drive shaft, put it up on the rack and check runout front and rear with a quality dial indicator. Excessive runout will destroy stuff muy pronto and you will feel it long before it blows. A thin wall drive shaft can be very strong but a truck built for a towing capacity of 12,000 lbs isn't going to have a weak DS. If these drive shafts are that weak they would twist in two before you could even get a heavy 12000 lb trailer untracked.
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