CamGTP

I wouldn't worry to much about it. Even though the engine holds 8 quarts, there is never that much in the sump at any given time unless the engine is off. There will always be 2-3 quarts being pumped through the engine and running down back into the oil pan. Even with the extra quarts of oil the level isn't high enough for the crank to start smacking the oil causing it to foam up. Hard to say what oil they actually put it in though. Could have been the correct oil or could have been 5W40 or 15W40.

It's a really simple repair in all honesty, 2 bolts to drop the starter out of the way and it's right there. I'd probably still drive it.

Unlikely that it's a PCM problem. Sounds more like a bad crank sensor to me but that is just a guess. Bad crank sensors do that exact same thing. And the VIN means absolutely nothing here, the VIN doesn't change how the vehicle runs. If the engines are the same engines in this swap, the computer would run it no problem.

I'm very curious about the new V8 engines they are coming out with. Nice to see some spy shots, that just means there will start to be more pictures floating around as we come to the end of winter and into more summer testing. Kinda stinks that the majority of the truck will be the same. The cab and bed will be basically the same, just the front end, interior and engines will be all new.

I'd be pretty curious on that. If it clears the one of the cross members down there, you'd think it bolts right into place.

Unrelated to the tire rotate in my opinion. Probably has a bad ABS wire or the bearing is bad.

The 6 speedo is a far better transmission than the 4L60e when it comes to lifts and big tires too. The long gear changes of the 4 speed will suck and you need less rear gear with a 6 speed because of the mechanical advantage the 2 extra gears give you.

Always get a pre-purchase inspection on older trucks.

I just added the sensor right at the fuel tank instead of buying the fuel lines for the truck. It's easy enough to tie into the plastic line at the fuel pump and with a couple connectors into the flex fuel sensor. Then I just kinda tie it up on top of the tank so it doesn't move around. Been like that for years honestly lol. The harness is already on the frame rail, I just extended the wire back to the fuel pump so it could plug in. Maybe you already checked by 2014's had the sensors installed at the factory, I think some 2015's did too. Probably cost me $80 to add the sensor and I do my own tuning. If you owned HP Tuners it would be very easy for me to use Team viewer to enable the sensor and adjust the commanded fueling for E85 using your HP Tuners device. I don't really have a suggestion on email tuners or who else to use.

Did you atleast check the front bearing yet? Sometimes even if you hear it from the back it can still be a front bearing noise. I'd jack the truck up and start spinning the front wheels, listen for the noise and also grab the coil spring on the strut, if you feel the vibration through the spring tha front bearing is bad.

If you replaced both sensors and checked all grounds then you left with checking the wiring harness for damage. It's not going to be fun but you need to trace the wires back through the harness to see if there are issues. You can also find a wiring diagram to test the wires from the fuse block or PCM back the sensor itself to make sure you have a good wire all the way through.

I'm only in my 30's lol. I've worked 2 jobs for the past 15+ years. Just so happens that one has been in the tire business and the other part time been selling auto parts lol. No idea on the long filter in the WIX line, the 100255 from Napa is already the long filter for the 2014-2018 trucks and I guess even from 2019 to atleast 2021 because my parents trucks still uses that filter. The older trucks used to run the 7060 from Napa which was the short filter, the long version was a 7045.

That cat can be cut out if you really wanted to do that. It's not there for anything other than meeting an emission standards. It's not monitored by the computer at all.

You really need to go test drive them to see if it rides softer. Just because it says Denali on the side doesn't mean it will ride better, it's still the same heavy duty suspension under the truck. Most trucks will ride a little smoother with weight in the bed or towing, just your normal everyday driving with nothing in the bed will likely ride the worst. Mainly because the suspension in unloaded and the tires will have lots of air pressure in them which causes a rougher ride. For sure a 35in tire will fit. The biggest stock tire is like a 34in if I remember right but I'd need to double check. You didn't say if you wanted a gas truck or a diesel truck.

87 octane is around $2.90-3.00 88 octane is $2.75-2.90 Diesel around $3.30-3.60.

You can't run normal lifters on the DoD camshaft for all cylinders. The lift and duration on those lobes is different and designed only for those DoD lifters. The camshaft must be swapped in you wish to run all standard lifters.

Probably too many to list. Both East Penn and Johnson control make just about every single group size battery for cars, everything from 24, 27. 47. 48. 51, 51R, 65, 75, 90, 94, 94R ect etc and both make commercial batteries in all the popular sizes. Both make RV and marine batteries as well. With Napa they sell 3 different tiers all from East Penn. The Pro-former, the Legend and Legend Premium. They also have a AAA battery which is a premium with a different name. You are paying for the cold cranking amps and the warranty. The battery will have more or less plates in it or whatever it is to get you those cold cranking amps. Walmart does the same thing and I know other parts store do the same thing. The cases on the most of these batteries is exactly the same but some store chains will have their own case style, I see them all the time because I've worked in parts sales for over 14 years part time. Really it's just the stickers on the batteries that change.

My 2016 half ton can do the same thing in the right conditions. Axle wrap or wheel hop is well known on these trucks, atleast to me anyway. Especially common when people add power to these trucks. Leaf spring trucks just do this in my opinion without traction bars.

If Nitto sells the 420V in that size, I'd run them over the Toyo.

No regular mechanics shop is going to do that work. This requires tuning on top of the delete. Tuning the 2019+ trucks is very very expensive just so you know. You need to google a performance shop near you that can also do custom tuning if you really want to do a AFM delete. Prepare to open that wallet for this.

Doesn't really matter who you buy a battery from. There are only like 3 companies that make just about all the car batteries in the US. It's a different label and a different price depending on where you buy. Like Napa sells East Penn batteries in most states and Walmart buys from Johnson control. Then I think there is a company called Stryten and Exide. I always say buy what you can afford and buy the at the best price and warranty. Just about any AGM battery comes with a 3 year warranty now.

That's a you thing lol. Around here it just doesn't happen that often for most tires, not with our climate and dealing with snow. Tires will still have tread on them and look okay but they will still be useless in the winter. It kinda sucks because if it was summer you'd still have another 10k of use with them.

That's for the variable oil pump control valve There is an o-ring on it. I believe the hold down is inside the cover, so it would have to come off to replace the o-ring.

Ebay. I buy all of my new cases from ebay. For $20 or $30 I get another 5+ years or so from the new cases.

Just check it at that 140-150 degrees. If it's near the full mark, you are totally fine. We are talking like a 1/4 of a quart difference in level, it's more than okay. Honestly you can be like 1/2 quart over full and be totally okay, lots of guys in the performance world will overfill the transmission so it doesn't run dry at full throttle.