CamGTP

There is little to no oil splash if you do the filter first and no chance of dropping the oil filter into the full drain pan if it's slips out of your hand. When I worked in a shop doing oil changes left and right it really depended on the vehicle because you have a huge oil cart underneath the vehicle.

It can't harm anything to do it. The TCM is forever learning and adapting to whoever is driving it. I bet if I drove your truck even with a V6, I'd think the transmission would probably feel like a slush box compared to how I drive my truck and the way my transmission shifts. I recently did some work to my uncles 2018 Silverado and I thought the transmission just felt lazy because all he does is just hop in it and drive. So over months and month of light driving the transmission has learned to be softer because of that driving style. If you reset the adapting learning it's basically doing a hard reset and the transmission starts over. The first 15-20 times through all the gears it will be kinda clunky and it quickly relearns what to do and then slowly over time will settle in to how you drive again. Resetting it will make it feel like a new transmission sometimes, it should shift cleaner and firmer for a while and if you continue to drive it with a little more vigor, it will stay that way.

He means transmission reset. You can reset the adaptive learning on the transmission with a scan tool. And most higher end scan tools can do both a transmission reset and a transmission fast learn procedure.

I'm pretty skinny still, so I just slide right under the truck to do oil changes. Grab a pan and a 15mm wrench. Drain the filter first, slap the new one in there and drain the oil. Out and done in less than 10min. Driving up on a 2x4 and then onto a 4x4 wood block on the drivers side does give a lot more room, I do that sometimes. I use my quick jacks for cars and if I'm doing a rotate at the same time. Expensive to buy at first but they are so worth it in the long run.

Hard to say without draining that tank and feeling what it is. Could be the coolant breaking down and forming a layer of something, could be rust particles from the coolant jackets. Seen way worse from dexcool vehicles that's for sure. Probably not a huge problem in my eyes.

$2.70ish to $2.90ish in many places.

A dial indicator would show you the run-out in the rotor, pretty much the only way to do that.

If you feel it through the seat it's almost always the rear brakes. The pedal or steering wheel would be fronts.

I don't have a costco membership to know the cost of their oil and what kind of deals they run for bulk boxes but I'm sure it's similar to what I pay to do it myself using a different brand of oil. What I do is buy bay boxes from Napa, they come in 6 gallon oil boxes. They retail for $133 plus tax for the bulk box. So you get 24 quarts and it's 8 quarts per oil change, good for 3 oil changes from one box. Rough math on the box before tax puts it at $5.54 per quart or $44 an oil change, plus a filter. So about $50 total. I will say that I get a work discount through napa and it put it around $100 per oil box or $33 an oil change plus filter. Overall that's pretty cheap in my eyes and it's saving me $60+ over taking it somewhere.

To me that's a lifter making noise, only a matter of time before it likely fails again.

Likely the biggest things are the body mount locations and brake and fuel line routing. Very possible that the mount locations are different and you may have to cut and re-weld the mounting points. Then the brake line and fuel line routing may need adjustments if they don't line up in good swaps with the GMC body and firewall. Also could need to make a custom steering shaft and things like that.

Looks like the account above just copied what I said and pasted it with a few words different. Gotta love bots.

Cam bearings always look worn on LS engines with some miles. If the camshaft wasn't all scored up and you can't feel any huge ridges on the bearing, they are fine. Most guys will say if you look at the cam bearings, they will look bad, so just don't look at them and slap the camshaft in there anyway lol. If the cam retainer plate in new and the o-ring and pump are new, then I guess it could be leaking out oil pressure from the VLOM area if you deleted that too. Or maybe the new oil pump or o-ring is bad out of the box.

It can be pretty noticeable for some. The tire itself is likely going to be 15-20lbs heavier than a standard P-rated tire. And if you go oversized, they only get heavier. You can run them around 40-45psi without a problem.

What code is it throwing? Shot gunning parts at it isn't a good idea. The flashing check engine light should be telling you what to look at. Could need an actual tune up. Like fresh spark plugs, cleaning the fuel injectors, changing the fuel filter. Cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve too.

Did you use a new cam retainer plate with the AFM delete?

I will say this right off the bat. It will be impossible to put a 10 speed or even an 8 speed into that truck without basically doing everything over from scratch. Like doing a full engine and wiring swap with a GEN 5 engine and computer/wiring and then you have the fuel system and all that other jazz. So basically scrap that idea. Going to a 6 speed is possible as that generation of truck did come with a 6L80e but it's still rather involved with wiring changes and computer tuning. Also likely that the driveshaft length would be different on the that transmission compared to a 4L60e. Keeping the 4L60e is honestly the best approach with this. You need a 2009+ transmission for it to swap in so the wiring harness as the same number of pins.

I'm kinda leaning towards the lobe on the camshaft is worn too. I think you could check this by using a dial indicator on the top of the rocker arm. You could do it on cylinder 3 and then pick cylinder 5. If cylinder 3 doesn't has as much lift anymore, then that lobe has been damaged.

Most of the youtube video's out there don't teach the right stuff or over complicate the tuning process. A new guy learning today has is kind of rough even though there is a lot of information out there. They may read or watch something and it can throw them out into left field. I like having people get into tuning but tuning a cammed truck as your first go around isn't the best idea most of the time. Learning on stock vehicles is always best so you can understand how the editor and scanner work together and just learn how the engine actually functions with the computer.

Yes, you'd still have issues because it's not just the throttle body that matters. The PCM and the throttle body, TAC module and pedal assembly need to be matching. I'd have to go down the rabbit hole of tracking part numbers but from what I recall the TAC module and throttle pedal have different part numbers from 2005 and 2007 and the calibrations are not the same between those 2 years. Your wiring harness on the 2007 will work just fine for the swap, all of that should plug into the engine just fine. Just the 2005 computer is the hold up. Like I said with copying the tune and making it work in the 2007 computer is one solution or having someone custom tune your truck with the new mods is the other option.

Never used one of those as I do my own tuning with HP Tuners. But I have no doubts that it will drive different and or better with a tune but just don't expect the world from that tuner. The gain in horsepower and fuel mileage is kinda snake oil in a way. Yeah there will be a small gain in power but it's not like you are going to see a lot, it's really just where the tuning can lessen the torque mngt and it will pick up a little mid range power that was just being held back before. Not likely that you will be any faster in the quarter mile run. And fuel mileage and so dependent on your right foot, don't get too excited there because you are also turning off the AFM/DoD that was there to give you fuel mileage.

If you're talking about the oil in the intake, then that is pretty normal to see. Trucks with AFM do that alot and even without AFM, the PCV system is what does that. They make a better valve cover for the drivers side depending on what year truck this is.

The engine will work but the computer I believe will not work. The PCM, throttle body, pedal assembly and TAC module all need to be matching for it to work. There are part number differences from 2003-2005 and 2006-2007 trucks. The best to go about this would be to pull the tune off the 2005 computer and copy that data into the 2007 calibration. It would take someone with HP Tuners or EFi Live to do this. And not all tables can be copied over because certain throttle body related tables are not the same between years and will cause reduced engine power errors to come up. After the data is copied over, you'd need to fine tune it the rest of the way and then see if you need any other parts to make it safe. It's possible that your 2007 truck won't have big enough injectors or that is has different injectors than what the tune on the 2005 truck had. So that is another things that needs to be addressed. It's usually never as easy and plug in and go when using different year computers with unknown information about the full parts list used on that engine.

You really need to consider how much power you want to make and how much other stuff you want to buy. Going to just about anything stage 3 means you need an aftermarket higher stall torque converter and if the 4L65/70e is stock, you better hope it's healthy and stays together. The stock transmission will break stuff if you shift above 6,000rpm without hard parts in a heavy ass truck. If you don't want a stall converter you need to stay in the 212/218 or somewhere around there camshaft size. It will still make good power but won't need the 2,500 to 3,000rpm stall like bigger camshafts need. Stock injectors should support a cammed 6.0 in those years and you will want to invest in a wideband oxygen sensor for tuning. Because that truck will need a complete retune and email tuning is going to take forever and likely not be that good. The wideband information in the data logs is extremely important for wide open throttle tuning to make sure fueling is correct and that the airflow model in the calibration is tuned right.

You can make a LT4 work, it wouldn't be that hard. You'll need a bigger intake fuel pump to supply the LT4 engine but otherwise it's really just down to tuning and finding someone that really knows what they are doing.