CamGTP

Hard to say for sure. It's not a fun task but you could remove the serp belt and the belt on the vacuum pump and start the engine to see if the noise is still there. Can't run the truck for a long time with no alternator and water pump working but if the noise completely stops, then it's one of those things on the belt system. Be it a pulley, water pump, vacuum pump etc etc.

If the fobs don't have the remote start you should double check the RPO codes to make sure that truck is equipped with a factory remote start just to be safe. Then you could buy new OEM remote and have a dealership program them.

Really comes down to what is cheaper and a better option for you. I would install 3.73's in the 2010 and have the computer tuned. That is far cheaper than buying a new truck. But a new truck with a warranty that has more power and a better transmission is nice too. Just much more money to go that route.

Impossible to really say because condensation build up in the exhaust depends on air temp, humidity and how well the engine is running.

Still at $2.99 ish here in MN. I paid $2.68 down in Iowa on my way to Kansas City, MO, prices where mostly under $3 in MO too.

If it's a 6 speed, my guess is the front pump just took a dump and it needs a rebuild now.

It's exactly why I've never been a fan of KO's. And the fact that if you tow all the time, they will never last very long. Yes they do work when they are new but past half tread they really fall off. Though many tires can do the same. I've been a much bigger fan of the Toyo Open Country AT3's.

Everything now takes full synthetic dexos oil, has been that way for a long time. It's a 0W20 engine, your owners manual has this information too.

BFG website says 2025 release date. You won't find anything sooner than that information until the end of 2024 and into early 2025. Even with all of the releases of new tires, it takes a decent amount of time to even see those shipments go out. My work gets in new shipments 3 times of week and even a brand new released tire will have a DOT date that is from 6-8 weeks prior. It takes a little while for them to get into distribution centers and then from there to the retailers that sell them. You're only option right now is to run a 275/65/20 tire, that's as close as you are going to get. Or switch rim sizes and find something in a 18in size.

It's $2.86 for 87 octane. Like 10-15 cents less at some stations for 88 octane. Seen E85 for as low as $2.19 a gallon.

Yes, it is 100% a Chevy Colorado or Canyon under the skin, just the badges and grille are different. Everything else is the same.

I agree, sounds u-joint related.

If the frame moved that much, it's a complete gonner. All of your alignment specs are totally out of whack now too. It's not going to track straight and will start chewing up tires.

While you are doing the work I would look at your cylinder heads and see if they are Castech heads, those were known to cause coolant loss problems. You can google what to look for. Otherwise, just replace what you think should be done. You are already doing head gaskets, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets. Check your hoses and what not. My suggestion is to pull the lifter trays out and check all the lifter rollers, make sure they are all smooth. Also check each lobe on the camshaft. Some of those engines will have worn lobes and it's best to catch it now. Also check how loose the lifters fit in the lifter trays, if they seem loose, replace the trays.

They make thousands and thousands or cv axles, yours just so happen to leak. Maybe you didn't have that issue on your K2 truck, but someone else surely did. It happens. Yes, they'd likely replace the whole unit.

Could be a defect in the yoke, and you may need to replace that along with a new seal again.

I have watched many video's over the years of people reviewing these heavy duty truck and doing heavy tow testing in the mountains and up rural passes. Every single truck these test being it from Ford, Chevy or Dodge all see very high transmission temps when used extended periods of steep grades and more so at slower speeds. So to me the temps you are seeing fall right in line with all the stuff they have seen with their testing. The temps aren't ideal and the fluid can more than handle that temp. I would only be super worried if you saw temps above 245-250 but at that point the trucks usually end up going into limp mode to save themselves. The life of the fluid above 200 degrees goes down but it's still going to have life for 20-40k miles compared to life at 75-100k miles if the temps stayed between 150-190 all the time. But things inside the transmission can be cooked if the temps are always 220+, like seals, rubber o-rings, wiring or connectors for the valve body. They just become more brittle over time. I'm sure your temps smoothed back out once you stopped pulling the grade and got more airflow through the grille. And yes, idling the engine is usually best to bring temps down or get out on the open road with more airflow. The only way to really lower the temps all the time would be install an external transmission cooler to try and bring the temps down by 20-30 degrees.

You don't need to buy a new TCM, just a torque converter if you get a used transmission. The TCM is part of the valve body on the transmission. If you find a low mileage unit, that would be best. Swap the transmission and converter out and then take it to be flashed so you can drive it. Not really sure what low mileage used 6L90es are going for right now. You may also want to research which years you can use. There will be a year breakdown because the TCM might only be useable if say it came from 2007-2009 or something like that.

The front pump is likely gone at this point. The pump is built into the bell housing and will get chewed up when the torque converter starts to fail. It sends metal through it and slowly kills it. My opinion is that this point you are either looking a rebuild or finding a junkyard unit to swap it out with. If you go the used route, you will need to have it flashed at a dealer before you drive it, so it would need to be towed there as the TCM must be programmed to your truck. And if you go the used route, buy a new torque converter as well.

A rough guess is going to be 3250lbs on the front axle and 2300lbs on the rear axle. My 2016 crew cab with the short bed was ~5,560lbs on the scale with a mostly full tank of fuel. Your truck will have less cab but more bed and a few more steel parts compared to a 2016 but the specs are probably close to the same.

It's probably about right. The parts are cheap but you are going to be paying like 4-5 hours in labor to do all of that. They have to remove each manifold to replace the gaskets, which also involves unbolting the y-pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Labor rates at dealerships around here are nearly $200 an hour or more. Smaller independent shops charge way less in labor just so you know, going to a dealership would be my last option to be honest. I few smaller shops around me charge 50-70 a hours less than the dealer, that's a lot of money on a 4 or 5 hour job. But if the exhaust leak is minor and isn't causing any actual running issues, it's probably not a huge deal right now.

I mean yeah, the picture make it look clean but you need to see it in person to really tell. Also I think someone swapped out the stock rims with older OEM stock rims. The ones on the truck look to be from the previous gen trucks, not that that is a huge deal. I could be wrong but they look like the older style rims.

I would not use anything other than the new Mobil 1 transmission fluid that is required for those trucks. If if not running the newest fluid available, that is the first thing I would be doing.

Fairly high miles for a 4 year old truck, so you know it was used a lot. But what you don't know is in which way it was used. Like did it pull trailers or haul stuff all day every day. If the body is super clean, no dents or missing paint, it could be a good truck.

If you do replace the PCM, you will need to have it programmed by a dealer or someone with a dealer level scan tool and a GM subscription to the correct files. The PCM and TCM have to be flashed together for they run the same matching operating systems, otherwise the transmission will not shift and you'll be stuck in limp mode.