CamGTP

Swap the long block over and that's it. Put your intake from the 2001 on it because that still might have EGR and you need to use your fuel rail as 2001 has a return fuel system and the 2004 is returnless. Everything else bolts up, exhaust, motor mounts, hoses and sensors are all the same.

I said the HT's and not the AT's, there is a huge price difference between those 2 tires. https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/falken-wildpeak-h-t-ht02/p/44946 Also the 285/55/22's have garbage for tire selection and they are all LT tires too, so the weight of the tire goes way up and so does the cost. I wouldn't even consider running a 55 series tire.

Aggressive, sure but they look like they would be terrible in lots of snow and if the road surface is slick. They will chew some of the snow up but there is almost zero sipes in that blocky tread pattern. The big rubber blocks are going to get pretty hard in cold weather and make them like hockey pucks, they are going to slide alot in my eyes. The Firestone Destination LE3's would be a way better tire for the money at $238 each in the 285/45/22 size. Or the Falken Wildpeak HT's at $239 each for a budget friendly 22in tire.

We've had a few penske rental box trucks for our fleet when one of our work vehicles goes down and they have all been 6.6 gas engines lately. To me all of them have had that tinging/pinging sound under load sometimes. But those trucks have zero sound deadening and have rubber floors with a dog house covering the engine.

I'd just wait until tomorrow, clean it off with some brake cleaner and see if the wet area comes back. If it does, you'll have to do it over again. I never wait an hour either, I might snug the pan up and wait 10 minutes and then torque it down. Then just let it sit for an hour before I add oil and let the engine get hot.

I guess without seeing the tune for myself and the data logs to go along with it, it's hard to say how the tune was done. It's possible the person who did the tuning just didn't go a good enough job. Some camshafts depending on size do require quite a bit of work to dial in and can't just be done in a 1-2 hour tuning session.

Most 285/45/22's are designed to fit 9in to 10.5in wide rims. So you could still go with them.

The misfire is causing the pulsing of the gauge and the fact that it has an aftermarket camshaft. A longer duration and a different lobe separation angle compared to stock will result in less vacuum at idle compared to a stock camshaft. I bet most stock camshaft would pull close to 18-20in of vacuum. You still need to fix the misfire at idle though. Not knowing what camshaft it has does not help you at all. Knowing those spec is kinda critical in making sure that you have the correct push rod length so the valves are opening at the right times. Also depending on the size of the camshaft the misfire detection settings in the tune need to be changed so that it doesn't say it's misfiring at idle because of the different cam profile. Also you'd need to make sure that idle timing and idle fueling at correct, there is a lot that goes into it.

You need to get a regular half ton diff. Not only are the mounting points different on a half ton frame compared to a 3/4 or 1 ton frame but the driveshafts are different sizes and the stub shafts are different too for the bigger axles.

No. The truck was designed to run 87 from the factory. Going to a high octane would only benefit the engine if it was making more power than stock and if timing knock was a issue at full throttle. Otherwise when we drive at 1/4 throttle for 98% of driving, the 91 octane was really just a waste of your money. Tuners that say you need to run 91 octane all the time say that because that fuel will give you the most horsepower at all times under specific conditions, like going full throttle. Even if you switched back to 87 or 89 octane on a so called 91 octane tune, the computer is more than smart enough to detect engine knock if there was any and can remove ignition timing almost instantly to keep the engine running safe.

Walker makes the pipe with that flange already on it but it's not exactly cheap. I'm not sure where you can find just the flange itself without the whole pipe. Walkers part number for that would be #55541. This part number is for 2007.5+ trucks with a 6.0 in a half ton truck. Part number #53896 for 3/4 ton trucks.

Impossible to tell you without pictures of the parts used on the lift kit itself. If the lift kit doesn't have any part numbers or anything, then you are just guessing. If Pro-Comp is the lift company, look on their website for the same style lift or contact them directly. And in my opinion, a 5in block on the leaf spring just screams that it's a cheap lift kit and is a little sketchy lol.

You want a narrow tire for winter traction, you want to slice through the snow and not ride on top of it. Pick a smaller tire and you will save some money and have better tire options for winter. Go to a 285/45/22, it's .7in shorter and almost an inch more narrow. You can get the Toyo Observe G3 Ice tire for like $210 a piece if they are still available through Discount tire. The Conti Viking Contact are little over $300 a piece in that size. The Cooper snow tires are $270 a piece, plus they have a $50 rebate on a set. Otherwise they have plenty of other non winter tires in that size that are good all season tires. The Toyo Celsius or the Toyo Aklimate, the AT3W is nearly $100 less than the AT4W. There are other brands too but the Hankooks aren't what I suggest for people anymore, sure they are good tire but they're better tires with better tread designs that handle the winter better. Any decent winter tire will dominate any of those all seasons though. It's a night and day difference, once you run them you'll never want to go back to a regular 4 season truck tire for the winter.

Pretty sure the K2XX trucks do not have an external resistor, it is built into the body of the blower motor.

Likely not going to work because the throttle body, TAC module and pedal assembly usually always need to be from the same vehicle and the calibration needs to be match what the parts do. That is, if you are running a stock computer using something like HP Tuners to tune it. If you are running a standalone system like a holley terminator or similar, it likely doesn't care what throttle body you use so long as it plugs into the harness.

Likely the EVAP stuff at the other end of the tank. The pump and fuel level sendor are together,

Pretty hard to help when you don't list the codes you are still getting.

AC Delco rotors are not badly priced from most dealer parts departments and or from online retailers like Rockauto. Otherwise my suggestion is the Fleet rotors from Napa or the Adaptive One rotors from Napa. Both are very high quality. You'll have to check to see what your local prices are for them. Drilled and slotted rotors are good for breaks that are abused and you need help to keep them cool. But they are louder under breaking and will chew up brake pads faster. Also drilled rotors are prone to cracks around the holes. Slotted rotors are better if you don't want to deal with cracks in the future. No matter what you'll probably be in it for like $300-400 for good quality pads and rotors with tax on a heavy duty truck like that.

Yes.

That's a new one for me too, but I also don't work for a dealership to know if it's really that common.

Makes me wonder why even GM parts direct doesn't give a breakdown of the NHT or not. It just shows the same seal regardless of 5.3 or 6.2 truck.

Should be a 9.5 ring gear in your truck being that it's a 2014+ body style. The 9.75 ring gear trucks in a 6.2 use the same differential. So the SKF 21395A should be the right seal. GM parts direct shows the part number 22943111 And National list the part number 711033.

Nope, nothing requires a reprogram for the fuel system. It should be the shops problem if a new PCM is causing the fuel gauge to read incorrectly all the time. Though it could be possible the fuel level sendor just randomly died at the same exact time.

I know of no way to wire in your sensors to the computer and have them be output through the OBD2 so you can log them. The P01 computers don't have much support like that and they barely have enough space in the computer for 2 bar and 3 bar OS upgrades when using HP Tuners. Guys with HP Tuners that want to log say a fuel pressure sensor or a wideband oxygen sensor have to use existing 5v circuits like the fuel tank pressure sensor and or the EGR circuit to log those sensors. Then you have to create a custom math parameter within the scanner to convert the 5v data into units that the added sensor uses. There is also the serial data connector that HP Tuners has that you could use one of those sensors with but you are limited to only 1 sensor. So in my eyes you can't do what you want to do if you are planning do through the OBD2 port.

Agreed, completely normal if no driveshaft or anything is in the transmission. Nothing is stopping the transmission from turning, so it's just going to start going.