CamGTP

87 octane is now around $3.00-3.19 it seems. 88 octane can be found for $2.70ish still.

What are the specs on those camshafts you are talking about? Generally on all the GEN 3 and GEN 4 V8 trucks with lower compression engines and stuff like that, if you stayed with a 212/218 size camshaft, you'd be able to keep the stock stall converter. The 6L80e has a weak converter that will shred itself over time. Being that you only have 35,000 miles you can tune the transmission to save the converter for a long while if you decided to keep it. I don't have a camashft in my truck but in all the ones I've helped people tune or seen tuned, mileage should be close to what you are getting now if you don't change your driving style. Engine generation doesn't really matter here, smaller more tame camshaft retain good driving behavior and don't burn a lot of extra fuel if the tune is good. That is the biggest thing, whoever does the tuning must known what they are doing with these new trucks. I highly suggest you have all the stuff deleted out of the tune prior to do any sort of work. It doesn't need a full tune but it needs a bunch a crap turned off before hand otherwise you will have permanent codes stored forever and plus it won't start if the factory DoD stuff is gone and it doesn't know that yet.

But if the app has the TPMS as part of the ABS system, that could be a why it shows up under that warning message. Some vehicles may have the TPMS integrated with the ABS/Trac/Stabiltrak but while also being separate from the PCM/TCM reporting. I wouldn't worry about it though.

The newer the better in my opinion for those trucks. The 2015's had some issues that's for sure but from what I've seen the 2017+ are pretty good trucks. Sure there is a bad apple in there sometimes but things are ironed out pretty well by 2019. I have no idea if that price is good or not being that I'm not in the market for that sort of truck and we live many states away, so that price could be good or bad here. If if it's got good records, that is a big plus for it. Change the fluids or make sure it's got the new 8 speed fluid in it. I just don't like black trucks, probably my only negative towards that truck.

The TVS1900 kits are bolt on and go. If you want to run more boost, then you need more fuel. That's where larger fuel injectors and a bigger high pressure fuel pump come into play. The stock camshaft does not need to be changed, again that is only if you want to make a lot more power or need a larger fuel lobe on the camshaft to support higher fuel requirements. Anything other than what those kits offer will require custom tuning. The tune you get from Magnuson will no longer work and will require a shop to do the tuning. Tons of people on other forums that I frequent are running the out of the box blower and tune for years without any problems at all. Custom tuning is still helpful because the transmissions really like to be tuned and they become the weak point with more power. The stock torque converters are pretty much junk unless it's been replaced already. The transmissions need to have the thermostat removed or have the updated GM lower thermostat installed to keep temps lower and save the fluid life. A stock 6L80e can handle 500hp easy, just can't abuse it and do dumb stuff like 6-2 power downshifts.

Look at companies that sell supercharger kits. Like the Magnuson TVS kits, they have bolt on kits with everything you need to supercharge it. Plus they come with a tune for it. If you plan to supercharge it with some random blower, it's tough to say exactly what else you will need without knowing what you plan to use.

Those temps are fine if the truck isn't being pushed. If you started being more aggressive with your driving the temps would come up. My 6 speeds runs between 110-125 in the cold months if I drive it. Stays around 145-150 in the summer with no load. Pull a trailer and it starts to rise a little but still way cooler than the factory thermostat temp that it came with, which helps with fluid life.

Honestly you have very few options because most things require a lot of work to be done. Plus you need someone really knowledgeable with engine work and tuning those computers in that generation truck. A handheld tuner is about the only thing you can do. Various companies sell them and to get the most out of them you need to run 91+ octane fuel so that the engine will not spark knock and have all available power. The heavy duty trucks are handicapped a lot in stock form, slow to respond and all that. They do this for emissions reasons and because they want everyone to be able to drive it for 200,000+ miles. Next would be gears. Changing gear ratios is very costly but offers way more grunt when towing. You will lower fuel mileage as the engine runs higher rpm at cruising speeds. Very involved would be camshaft swaps for more power or bolting on a supercharger kit. Making a heavy duty truck like that more fuel efficient will be super hard. Drive slower, remove extra weight when driving around. Use quality tires, no mud boggers or super offroad tires.

You can still have a leak but it may not be something you can see. Lots of times the radiator will slowly be seeping coolant and it just burns off or evaporates quickly as you are driving. Usually it happens on the side tanks and you'd have to remove the radiator to see everything. Other thing could be headgasket failure and it's slowly drinking the coolant.

Won't be plug and play with a E90 computer. Your truck runs a E92 and all the CAN network stuff is based will that computer. Even running a newer computer from those 2020 Tahoe/Yukons that are still E92 presents it's own problems. Different type of vehicle, many revisions in tech from a 2014 so the likelyhood of any of the dash, abs and stuff like that working is very slim.

Exactly. I personally don't like trucks were it's like 12 inches from the top of the tire to the bottom of the wheel well. I don't offroad my half ton truck, it's exactly why I lowered it 1.5in in the front and 3in the rear. I can still do all the truck things that it needs to do.

Checking fuses is the best start. Something is not working if the battery has voltage but things inside the truck do not.

I like lowered heavy duty trucks.

Probably the GEN 3. Either will make lots of power. Tuning costs for Global B computers is really spendy too.

You won't ever find a vehicle specific code lookup, not on the internet at least. Even with aftermarket tuners like HP Tuners that will code out the file to be edited, it will still show codes that don't even belong to that vehicle you are tuning. They are just a giant list of codes that GM uses and there will either be a check mark next to the code or showing what MIL error it takes to trip that code. Like a first error or second error for the SES to enable. This website here is going to provide a giant list of general codes and what they will mean. https://obd2pros.com/dtc-codes/#p_codes_powertrain_p0000_to_3499

Shouldn't have to re-flare the lines. Just make sure the threads are clean and they look nice. Don't over tighten the lines going back in and it shouldn't leak.

Replace the headgaskets and send it. Have a machine shop check the heads if you really want them to. They can hot tank them and deck them to make them fresh for a cost. The last thought in my mind is to replace the engine. You didn't boil this thing down and headgasket failures are fairly common to the 350 engines. If you do the work yourself, I see no reason why it can't be done for under $600 in parts. Gasket kits are cheap, new head bolts are cheap, oil and coolant isn't that spendy. The only big cost would be if you send the heads out to be cleaned and checked. Cleaning the block and preparing the work is easy. Lots of ways to do it and it just takes a little time.

If going on looks alone, the face lifted 2022.5's and newer look better and have a better dash layout in my opinion.

The TCM has seals and wearable parts, I do not recommend swapping them out. The transmission will not move with a new TCM, you will need it flashed with the correct calibration files before you drive it. So towing it is likely your only option.

What trouble codes came up on the diag report? I hope they atleast gave you that.

If it was from a dealership, probably. If it was private party, good luck. Unfortunately it is your fault for not getting it inspected prior to purchase. That would have likely revealed the frame damage and other issue you are finding out now.

No idea if that offset and stuff will fit but more sidewall is always going to improve ride quality about 90% of the time. 20's will weigh less than 22's as well. If you don't want rubbing and no fear of fitment I don't understand why people just don't stick with stock specs or close to stock specs for wheels. Requires zero thinking but that's just me.

A 6l80e is plenty strong, they handle well over 500hp without an issue. If you want to abuse it, you need to upgrade it with some hard parts and better clutches. Swapping to a 6L90e is not an upgrade, it's going to handle the same power but with abuse it too will require better parts. Stuff breaks when you do stuff you shouldn't. If you do 6-2 power downshifts, stuff is going to grenade. Learn to roll into the throttle or use the tap up/down to select your gear if you plan the beat the ****** out of the truck. A billet torque converter is a must in a 6L80e, the stock units are weak. Going to a 4L80e is so much more work. How are you going to control it? What are you going to control the engine with now that it has no TCM communication? The L86 intake upgrade is a good and bad. Swapping the throttle body is a hard part because tuning for that change is super complicated. It's not just a few changes for that. HP Tuners doesn't give you all the tables to change and only guys that have done user defined parameters and wrote their own custom changes to the software can really get it right. I always suggest keeping the L83 throttle body.

I wouldn't really trust that balance data too much. Have to remember the low side pressure will be in that 40-70psi until it reaches the high pressure pump that turns it up to 2,000-3,000psi to fire the injectors. All the other data seems fine, fuel trims seem good and all that. 5mpg is about the worst I've heard so far. I towed a car on a open deck car trailer, totally over 5,500lbs and I got at least 11-12mpg doing that. I would expect similar mileage with an enclosed trailer of your size. Are you see abnormally high transmission temps while towing this weight?

Any modification to the suspension requires an alignment still. You can adjust the camber yourself to mostly fix it while you wait for the new arms to come in.