CamGTP

41-114 was the part number for my 2016, even in the owners manual it says that. It's exactly what I put back in there. But GM did that on many of these trucks for whatever reason, they had 2 different part numbers for plugs. One being platinum and the other iridium plugs. Oil on the threads is very typical of all the newer LS or LT engines in my opinion. With the AFM/DoD system, some of these trucks burn oil and over time a little bit will work it's way on the threads of the spark plugs in the cylinder head. The tip on the electrode looks normal to me. My guess is that the tech that did the lifter repair broke a spark plugs doing the work. The cylinder heads have to come off the engine to do the work and they likely broke a plug while doing, thus the other mis-matched spark plug.

Did you google that code? It's for a NOX sensor on a Duramax Diesel. Has nothing to do with a MAF sensor.

Well you never said what the check engine light is coming on for. Check engine light codes will have a number, so what is that code number you are getting? And each code number has a diagnostic chart that can be gone through to make sure you are doing the proper repair and not just shot gunning parts at the truck. Also K& N filters on MAF vehicles has always been stupid in my eyes. The versions that are oil filters are nothing but problems because over time the oil wicks off the filter and starts to cover the MAF sensor wires, thus leading to sensor failure and incorrect readings. There is a reason by OEM's use dry filters on all cars, because they work time and time again.

If they are Duratrac tires, they are just straight garbage tires in the first place.

More than likely need to replace it again. Could have been a bad pump out of the box. Usually you get a P06DD code if you have low oil pressure but I don't think there is a code for when the pump is putting out too much pressure all the time.

It's a L83 engine if it's a 5.3. From the sounds of it, the 2 stage oil pump is stuck in the 2nd stage if the pressure doesn't go below half or 3/4. That stage of the pump isn't suppose to operate until 3,500rpm if I recall correctly. Nothing has to be calibrated for a new pump. Very low chance that the oil filter is causing the oil pressure to be so high.

Any 5.3 can run E85, the block and pistons don't care. The only thing that matters is the injectors if it's a complete engine from intake to oil pan. If you used the intake and injectors and stuck them on the long block, you are good to go.

Oh my, those look like hot garbage lol. And they are bias-ply tires. No thank you for any modern truck run fast freeway speeds and can tow heavy weights.

Correct, the rear sensors do not do anything for fueling. All they do is monitor the cat function.

Usually the difference in a lot of AFM or DFM kits is what parts they include or don't. Like lifters and trays, is the camshaft just a stock grind with VVT or without VVT. And you'll need to tune it again if you truly delete the DFM on it. If you remove all of the parts that go with it, there are many many DTC's and other settings that will need to be turned off to make it run. The tuners only disable the "master" switch for the AFM or DFM. In HP Tuners it's one drop down menu you change. But if you remove all the parts, you have to disable like 20 trouble codes for the AFM system and do other changes to the calibration file to stop limp mode or misfires. Tuning a 2019+ truck isn't cheap and I'm not sure that Diablo has the ability to do it all. With HP Tuners it costs a pretty penny to do any real tuning on them.

It doesn't use clutches to lock the wheels when it loses traction. It's a mechanical locker that uses weights to throw out and engage the locker. You can use the google if you want to read up on how it works. Regular synthetic gear oil is all that is required.

Fuel trims don't operate in open loop while at wide open throttle. Long term fuel trims may carry over into power enrichment but the short term fuel trims will always go to zero. If those low voltage codes keep coming up for bank 1 sensor 1/2 and bank 2 sensor 1/2, then it's either the sensors that are the problem or the wiring to the sensors. If it was my truck, I'd be replacing them with Denso sensors before doing anything else. I tuned a truck a few weeks back that ran really good everywhere but full throttle. it was down on power and the o2 voltages would basically flat line when you put the pedal to the floor. The fuel pressure was good and the fuel trims where good too. Pressure never dropped and it always followed the commanded fuel pressure that the computer was asking. His o2 sensors had over 200k on them and we thought it could be the age that was causing them to read wonky. He ended up getting a ton of lean codes and other o2 sensors codes because the MAF sensor ended up being faulty. It was not reading the correct amount of air coming into the engine, thus the computer was never giving it enough fuel and causing the o2's to show lean. So I wouldn't rule out the MAF being a cause for all of this too.

Anything other than AC Delco or Denso sensors are complete garbage for these specific trucks. Cheap sensors read incorrectly straight out of the box and give error code all the time. Denso sensors aren't even a lot of money of these trucks anyway. Like $36 each for them online. There really isn't much left to try here. From the parts cannon you listed, the motor has been changed, new spark plugs and the rest of the ignition system has been done as well. With the fuel side, you said pressure is good and there is minimal to no exhaust back pressure. All that left is either dirty injectors or a wiring issue from a harness that is 24 years old by now. Would be pretty unlikely to see a computer driver failure that is very sporadic like this.

Just curious, what brand o2 sensors did you use?

If the o2 sensor is not switching at all, that is a problem itself and could be a reason for the poor running engine. If you swapped the o2 sensors side to side and that sensor does the same thing on the other side, then that o2 sensor is dead. If the misfires continue on bank 1, then you need to check compression and leak down on that bank. If those numbers are fine, you'll need to dig into the engine more. Like replacing injectors maybe.

It's for sure not normal at all. I'd be going to a different dealership. That transmission will not last long at those temps. It's going to cook the fluid in a very short time frame and cook the seals on the inside of the transmission. Any transmission tech that is worth a damn will know that seem fluid temps above 220-230 for long period of time will slowly ruin the transmission. There is no way in my eyes that GM can say that seeing 240-270 degrees temps is completely normal operation.

If you sucked the whole system dry with a AC machine and had no oil in the compressor it's about that 7oz. Even an AC machine will never get it all out, some will always be trapped in some of the hard lines or inside the evap core. If the new compressor has oil in it already just take that into account. You can't add the oil to the lines or anything else right now anyway because you must vacuum down the system prior to putting in new freon, you can't just add the freon with air in the system. If all the oil to the lines, it'll just get sucked out when you vacuum it down, Mostly all of the oil will stay in the compressor when using just a vacuum pump. So install all the parts, vacuum it down, then add in a little extra oil when you add in the R134a. Honestly close enough is good enough, I've done so many parts changes with and without AC machines as I have my own set of gauges and a vacuum pump. I really don't suck that much oil out with a vacuum pump, so I just add a little bit back in when I add in the freon, never had a problem doing it that way.

Drill another hole in the thermostat, if that doesn't cause the temps to be much lower, I have no idea what else is going to fix your problem.

A lot research will answer most of them but a few are... The transmission and torque converter, which you just said were replaced. Hopefully they did the updated transmission thermostat too, if not. You will want to do that to lower the transmission temps. Injector failure is pretty common. At that mileage the injectors are likely to be questionable and from my tuning side background they start to not flow as good over 150,000 miles. Data logs show they run a little richer after that many miles. Then the other big one is a lifter failure and camshaft wear. Maybe that truck has had the lifters replaced already but set aside a lot of money if you do have a lifter failure. Can be pretty spendy if you aren't your own mechanic.

2007.5-2013.

Just think, if he changed his oil at 4,000 miles or 5,000 miles this thread would never exist because the oil level wouldn't be as low. But at 6,000 miles it's down 1 liter. Maybe just change the oil sooner. Was it normal for my 6.7 Cummins work truck to burn 1 gallon of oil in 20,000 miles, probably not but when the service contract says 20k oil changes, not much I can do. The oil is like water at 15,000+ miles, so I just add oil to make it not blow up.

Define overheating. How hot? Are you using the gauge cluster and using a scan tool to verify temp? Have you tested the coolant for exhaust gases, which would be a head gasket failure.

Lifter failures that lead to camshaft damage are very common with the AFM engines. One of the main things that can go wrong with these engines, lots of people never have an issue but those that do can see these type of failures. It's not a lemon law issue, just bad luck. Lemon law stuff is when it's the same problem over and over and over and they can never fix it. This is your first engine related failure like this.

Should work. The GMT-400's went from 88-99 with minimal changes.

Yes and no. Should the engine be using oil between changes, no not really but lots of engines do and that is pretty normal across all makes and models. Seeing 1 Liter of oil usage in 6,000 miles is very minimal. Well within spec of what GM says is normal oil usage. You'll just need to get better at checking your oil more often to make sure it stays the same. GM won't do anything about until you are using like 1 quart every 1,000 miles or something crazy like that.