CamGTP

If you yank everything off the front of the truck you can pull the whole things out the front. So pull the radiator, condenser, core support and all that jazz. It's a little bit of work not super hard. Also just so you know, the transmission you have will require that it be flashed with your VIN prior to driving it. You can start the new combo together but the transmission will not drive because the transmission has a different calibration than the PCM/TCM combo in your truck right now.

That I'm pretty sure is the camshaft sensor. The other sensor to the right is for the VVT.

It's like $20 for the required amount of R-134a. Likely nobody here knows if you can just put different refrigerant in there with no issues. The seals and other parts are designed for R134a and not 1234yf.

The cylinder heads on a Vortec 5.3 are not the same as the EcoTech 5.3 You can see how the ports are way different when you google the pictures.

Yeah, because the whole thing is LED. There is no bulb to replace. Pretty common on tons of cars now, not just from GM.

Likely need to replace the entire headlight.

Cheap doesn't mean good. Most of those aftermarket knock off carbs will be off right out of the box. Either too lean or too rich. Or even leak fuel. Cleaning the stock carb would have been easier. Takes like 20 minutes on a bench. Maybe I'm just more mechanically inclined than you are, so that's my mindset.

Wide range of prices depending on if you live in the middle of nowhere or if you live near the rich towns with all the snobby people. $2.74 in the cheap places and saw $3.19 in other spots. Same branded gas stations all getting the same fuel from the same refiner that everyone else in the metro does lol. Still only costs me like $30 to fill my Cadillac every 2 weeks. Gotta love 8 mile round trip commutes.

Our local chevy dealer buys Adaptive One pads from Napa when they don't have any of there regular parts in stock. Basically the same pads as the silver/gold because it's likely the same people making them for both places. Food for thought.

Need to pull the carb off and clean the main jet and any other removable tube that has holes in it. If it runs on starting fluid or ether, then it's not pulling fuel up correctly from the main jet.

I've run a Napa thermostat for years, good enough for me and they have decent warranty. OEM parts can be hard to find it seems.

To me, no. Because if you really do drive that much you'll never be touching the brakes and the suspension is not really working very hard when you are bombing down the freeway doing 70mph all day. The belts and hoses will never be a problem until well past the 100,000 mile mark.

Yes, that is a good scanner in my opinion. I have a Autel MS906MAX.

Most higher end scan tool can actually watch cylinder misfires. If you can't log that with the ELM327 things, then you really have no idea if it's a misfire or not. Both my HP Tuners software and my Autel diag scanner can read individual misfires, that what I use to verify issues like this. The low idle rpm these trucks run at can make it feel like a misfire and honestly random idle misfires can just happen. If the check engine light isn't on, then it's not doing it enough to trigger the misfire detection.

You can buy 4 packs on EBAY for just over $100. Just search the part number in the picture above.

On the side of the engine block just above the oil pan.

We can only assume you checked the oil level and made sure it's not leaking right? If that checks out then you'd have to hook up a manual pressure gauge to verify that you have no oil pressure. If that matches the warning light and gauge, then the oil pump is likely bad.

The stock size should be 265/65/18 and not 265/60/18. For sure you can go all the way to a 275/60/20 in size without rubbing or trimming. So basically going from a 31.5in tire to a 33in tire. Going with a 275/70/18 would equal the other stock size available. The 275/65/18 is barely any different in my opinion, just wider and hardly any taller. The speedo would only be off by 1mph, not even worth spending money to fix that. The 275/70 would be 3mph different and offer the biggest change in actual look. Taller and wider and when compressed the tire will be roughly 32.5in tall. Only downside to all of this is that you are going to run a LT tire. Heavier and more costly. Fuel mileage could suffer if you care. As for the tires, the Toyo open country tires are better than the falkens in my eyes.

If I was trying to figure it out I'd be looking at a data log to see how the engine is running on the freeway. Like watching various sensors and fuel trims to see what they are reading. If you haven't ever cleaned the MAF sensor, I would do that too.

Diesel 911, Howes and Hotshot's version all work to help if it's gelled up. But it will only be enough to idle the engine if it's really bad. There won't be enough fuel flow under load to maintain a bunch of speed. All our fuels are usually treated to handle -20 but we always add more to the tanks even at -5 just to be sure we don't have problems.

It's likely to hit the exhaust as you try to remove it. The easy thing to do is just unbolt the transmission mount and stick a jack and block of wood under the transfer case to lift the transmission up an inch or so to give you more clearance.

Dipped down to -24 overnight. I think it hit -35 at the Canadian boarder. The cold is gone now, tomorrow rebounds to mid 20's tomorrow.

It's already -19 tonight, will dip lower. The high temp today was maybe -8 at best. I drove even further north today for work, saw temps down around -20ish this morning.

Well, why not replace that part and see if it actually does fix it? How can we diag the problem through a keyboard? The dealership may or may not have told you the truth when they tried to figure out the problem. If the new part makes the exact same noise, then they were right and you will have to live it.

Judging by the specs of even the L83 stage 1 camshaft, those are some nice power gains for the size camshaft it is. The GEN 5 engines do allow for a bigger camshaft just because of the engine design and don't have to worry to much about the converter. The stage 2 camshaft will surely want a converter upgrade, probably a 2600-2800rpm stall.