CamGTP

Mine idles at 20-25psi and cruises down the highway at 36-38psi and I only have 123,000 miles. So I wouldn't really worry about it. Mines never run above 40psi at highway speeds in the last 6 years of ownership. Only gets above 40 when accelerating, full throttle and cold starts.

Probably have to replace the filler neck piece for the capless system, or take it apart and clean it real good. Likely not sealing correctly have the gas nozzle is removed. That's my guess on it.

Nothing is really going to be bolt in. The newer axles that bolt to the GMT-900 and K2XX frames won't have exactly the same mounting points for the leaf spring and rear shocks. And if you went with a 2500 axle that is even more beefy, you'd run into the same situation. But it's nothing a welder can't fix to move the leaf spring mounting points and shock locations.

Possible that whatever is causing it is getting hot and needs to cool off before working again. If the crank sensor isn't working, that could be a cause. A live data scan tool can watch that stuff, if there is no crank signal from the sensor, it won't start.

I don't know of any actual shift kits anymore because everything is controlled by the computer now. There are fix it kits for the valve body to correct known issues with the 8 speed but not actual shift kits of the old days with Th350's, or 4L60 and 4L80e transmissions. If the transmission runs hotter, I believe they still have a thermostat on the cooler lines of those trucks. You can mod the thermostat to always be open to reduce the fluid temps. I do that on all the 6 speed trucks to reduce the fluid temps by 40 degrees or more. A deeper pan isn't really required. If you really want it to shift faster or better you have to tune it. But tuning a 2019+ truck is insanely expensive to do and not really worth it if my opinion. Plus you need have a tuner that really knows these new computers well, I wouldn't trust just anyone.

The E92 controller is very complex being that it's all torque based. If the engine side tune is not very good, then the transmission is going to drive like crap. I can't see his work obviously but part of me what to say that he doesn't know that platform very well because the engine tune must be spot on for the transmission work right. If he wants extra eyes and isn't overly proud of himself, he could post his work to the HP Tuners forums and few really smart guys over there can pick his tune apart and see what he may or may not be doing wrong.

You could also try putting a few hundred pounds in the rear, just to see if that smooths it out.

Yeah it honestly doesn't vary much at all. I know of many tuners and they all have "base" files if you want to call them that, that they can basically just copy and paste into a truck as a starting point. I do the same thing mostly, I make roughly the same exact changes that I know work and make the most differences without doing anything crazy or that can harm the engine or transmission. I will then go for a quick 10 mile drive or so, running it through all the gears and what not and see what needs to be changed from there. $100 for the license and maybe another $150 on top of that just for my time and knowledge if more than enough for me. A decent amount of money for maybe 2 hours of my time.

No idea if they do and likely you can't get a straight answer from them anyway. The thing is, you can basically dial the engine side torque mgnt way way back without causing any real harm at all. You just don't change the max values or tell that it's making 800 ft lbs of torque when the setting had a max value of 450 ft lbs in the peak torque table. Neither value can be achieved but GM does that for some reason. It's like that on all the E78 and E92 controllers. I honestly leave the transmission TM completely stock but change stuff around it. Shift speed for mph and shift speed as in quickness. I adjust the pressure presets slightly to make the shift quicker without slamming into gear and other little odds and ends. Same with torque converter tuning, to help make them last longer. Custom tunes are the way to go but that price seems little high for such a simple tune on a truck that isn't even modded. But I see that around here too. Guys will charge $400-500+ for tune with no real mods at all. Something like this doesn't even require a dyno, can all be street tuned. Just doesn't make sense to charge someone so much for such little work. They'll be done in 1 hour but are basically charging you $300 an hour or more to tune it. I charge maybe $100-150 on top of the cost of credits for basic tunes that aren't going to take me hours and hours to do. Sure part of it is a business thing but when no dyno in needed and it's not going to take 3 hours to do, why charge so much.

Does it feel worse on the front end or rear end more? The rear shouldn't be as bad you'd think because the flip kit means you likely had to cut the stock bump stop brackets off the frame right? Because if you don't there is hardly any travel before it hit the stock bump stop bracket. For the front I'd go with coil overs on a truck that low no matter what. A lowering strut just won't ride good in my opinion. I did lowering struts on my crew cab truck but only went down 1.5in and it rides like factory.

Atleast the fire probably kept you warm when you were out there with barely any clothes on.

Seems like bad luck, I still have the factory front brakes on my truck at 123k miles, they still have like half life left. Lots of highways miles on this truck, so they never got worn down. I've always noticed that trucks with larger wheels will wear them faster because the rotating mass is much greater. Trucks with 17's or 18's will get longer life than those with 22's if they do more city driving.

I honestly wouldn't use anything other than the Auto-trac fluid if that is what it calls for. That fluid is just fine for our climates here is North America, it does get rather hot in Arizona, Texas, New Mexico and Mexico in the summer months, haven't heard of anyone have troubles with that fluid here.

The trucks weigh like 8,000-9,000lbs, they need beefy wheel bearings and suspension parts, thus the 8 lug design that is way stronger.

If possible when getting a rebuilt transmission, always use an aftermarket converter with a billet parts, that way it can't fail again. And yeah, to my knowledge there is no operating system for a truck with a V8 manual in a K2 truck. I have yet to see a build and never seen anyone on the HP Tuner forums get a file that exists for a swap like that. I still think it's possible with a Camaro operating system but again some things will not function anymore in the truck because the PCM/BCM and ABS systems would be able to talk with each correctly anymore. I know for sure you can run a Holley System to control the engine and have a new dash with that. But making the auto 4X4 and brake stuff work is going to be a task and might not even be possible.

I always buy TYC brand headlights from rockauto, never had any issues with them.

People that have, have only done it because it was a roller chassis. You can't swap something in that old and have anything else in the truck function. The LM7 was controlled by a P01 or P59 computer, the L83/L86 by a E92 computer with can-bus and direct injection. Nothing is the same between them and the LM7 can't be run by an E92 computer.

Don't run KO's if you tow a lot, they are too soft of a tire. Defender LTX or the Agilis tires are good for heavy loads. The BFG Commercial T/A is a good heavy duty tire as well.

If a K2 truck did, it was probably a 4.3 truck and not a V8 truck but that would need research. A US calibration file likely still doesn't exist and if it's for a 4.3 and not a V8, it still wouldn't work. I'm sure there are work arounds like using a Camaro operating system but then other things in the truck won't jive with a car OS and things like that.

Not knowing the history on who is putting in these transmissions and how you drive the truck, some of this could be self inflicted. Like if you put in used transmission or you had a "shop" do rebuilds for you. Always use a GM transmissions or buy a built transmission from a company with skin in the game. Also never run the stock 6L80e converter again, get a billet torque converter that won't break like the stock units do. And to answer the manual question. Sure, anything is possible but good luck making it work. You can convert it to manual but you're going to spend way more money, way more time and you better know what you are doing. These trucks never came with a manual, so nothing exists as far as swap in and go parts. You'd be piecing it all together from various manual transmissions from cars. Then you have to figure out how to make the truck happy now that it doesn't have an automatic transmission anymore. Can't really just tune it when that combo never existed, so you can't just change the calibration file to make it work.

Probably are going to need a scan tool at this point to try and reset the VATS system.

That is 100% normal. You are now 4x the weight of the truck damn near towing that combined weight, you are making the engine work way harder and comsume way more fuel. So it must use way more def to keep the system clean. My work truck is a 6.7 cummins in a big box truck style, I am 14,000lbs dry and will go about 800-1000 miles per 4-5 gallons of def. It's about 1 gallon per 250-300 miles give or take a little. I have no idea what the dealership has told you so far but they should have told you that DEF consumption will skyrocket while towing heavy loads and their is nothing they can do about it.

Not sure how it's so incorrect? These banks keep allowing longer term loans to lower peoples payments because many can not afford to buy the car on a 5 year loan. And if they can't get good financing because of their bad credit score, that is why they choose to do these really long loans and still barely can afford to drive it. Auto repo's are going to be going up that's for sure.

It should be read close to ambient temp if it's sat for many many hours. But if it's only 50 degrees that morning and it's reading 90 already, the temp sensor could be faulty.

The 12 bolt rear ends are 9.5's. There is no RPO code stickers anymore, they stopped that around 2017 on GM's.