Nitrousbird

Blackstone saved me some big money. My Vette had titanium in the oil - punted it while I could sell it for a profit.

Totally random flashing. May stay out for several seconds, be solid for a while, flash in and out quickly or slowly. Nothing that one could indicate being some type of trouble code.

Still rocking the factory battery. Mine gets the added bonus of not getting run for weeks a time, so not the easiest battery life. Never seen a charger.

Late build 2018 with 20k miles. The backlight on the AC button likes to flash. Will do it while driving, will do it while parked, will do it whether I push the button or not. Sometimes it will be solid, sometimes totally out, but mostly flashes on and off. Besides replacing the who HVAC control panel, any reasonable fixes for this? Annoying. No other buttons have this problem.

I use the USB in center console compartment for my AAWIreless device, so Android Auto is all wireless for me The wireless chargers in these trucks are a total joke, in both power and being too small. The other USB ports in the open part of the center console charge way too slowly as well. I'd like to repurpose them to actually have some real charging with no connection with the head unit. Any ideas on a good way to accomplish this? I realize I can plug in a 12V charger, but I want it to be as clean looking as possible. I currently have my 45W quick charger in the center console 12V slot and fish the cable through the cutout under the lid, but hate the cable going over the cup holder. Basically, I'd like to feed this 45W charger directly to the built in USB ports (or at least 1 port), so I can just plug in a 6" USB-A to USB-C cable, or change the port out to be a USB-C port.

Carvana offered me more than I paid for my truck new. Problem is finding a replacement truck. Tried at my go-to high volume dealer (as they have sane prices), but nothing in-stock for what I want (loaded AT4 with the diesel or 6.2). I've decided to wait until the '22 comes out then try upgrading then, as they are supposed to have an updated interior. I realize I will be paying more but if I can drive my truck for almost 3 years for nothing or next to nothing, I can deal with that and have a newer, even nicer truck. But it will require both getting the right truck and the right price for mine or I'll simply keep mine.

Just use Android Auto or CarPlay, then use Google Maps or Waze. FAR better maps and won't cost you anything. If you happen to be going to an area without cell service, simply download the offline maps. No reason to use the built-in garbage GPS.

Go to YouTube and subscribe to Goat Rope Garage. He has a tutorial series (and it is pretty in-depth) that you can start learning from. There is a LOT to it and he covers a ton of stuff. If you want to really start tuning beyond disabling AFM and the easy stuff, you need to get a wideband. I recommend the AEM 30-0334. It connects via OBD, so you don't have to use the Pro Link to pole data from it, HP Tuners fully supports it, and has a fast response rate.

There is a company on eBay that sell stainless exhaust bolts (alloyboltz). I bought a set of header studs for my LS7 and the quality is actually really good while being FAR cheaper than the ARP bolts. I would recommend going that route. Once my truck is out of warranty - and assuming I keep it - I will be doing this upgrade on it.

Tip for anyone doing this upgrade (and why wouldn't you, it's pretty cheap and a great upgrade): in the settings app, set it to Passthrough. I was having some inconsistent connection issues and this resolved it. It is also connecting faster now - as fast or faster than when I was plugging it in directly.

First, you buy this: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Install the setup app from the Play store on your phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.aawireless&hl=en_US&gl=US I added Velcro to the back of it so it would stay in place. Plug in the USB and setup via the app. I also like the feature where it will start directly to Android Auto without having to hit the button for it. Connection takes a little longer than wired, but doesn't feel any longer than the Android Auto Wireless connection on the Kenwood unit in my Vette. I'm so glad this is now available - having to plug in a wire every time I get in my truck sucked and I got way to used to it in my car. Edit: Before someone asks...yes, your truck needs to have wired Android Auto in it for this to work.

This doesn't really take a study. Carvana a couple months ago offered more for mine than what I paid for it new (mind you, I got my for 17k under MSRP, so that does help). That's a nice offer that I wanted to take, but I have since struggled to find a replacement truck. I'm just waiting for the '22 AT4 to come out with the updated interior now.

Had an incident today. I'm getting rid of a long-term project I'm sick of seeing and don't want to finish. Many years stored outdoors and I was just prepping for pics/sale. While driving it back to it's spot (after also inflating the tires), the strap holding it failed. Parking brake is also bad I discovered, and the blocks of wood that were there for wheel chalks were also not sufficient (stick car with no engine in it). Only damage is the tailgate. Magically not even a mark on any part of the bumper and no paint damage either. I'm guessing an insurance claim but if I can keep in under 1k I might not. Not sure if just the outer skin is sold, the whole tailgate, etc. I suck at body work but can easily disassemble it and do whatever is needed. Thought on the direction I should go for this repair.

So can anyone comment on the exhaust ticking sound (not the normal diesel knocking sound). I just want to verify whether it is normal OR if it was because of the crappy lifted truck I test drove. Thinking more about it, the diesel probably makes more sense for me. I don't really put the hammer down often on my current truck. Fuel mileage or even the additional $1500 for the 6.2 isn't a big factor. But range is a factor, as when we do long trips, that longer range would be beneficial. Also, from what I've seen on these towing videos, the diesel seems a little more laid back when putting the power down and is quieter doing that, which is obviously less tiring. I do not want a loud truck...I have a loud car for that fix, as well as my speed fix. Speaking with the wife, we may end up adding 1-2 extra long towing trips a year going forward, so that becomes a bigger priority.

That's totally missing my point. In the Denali and AT4, they come standard with the spray-in liner, so the CarbonPro isn't offsetting that cost. Same goes for the SLT Premium Plus packaged trucks. The Elevation and lower models can't get the CarbonPro package, so it's a moot point. The only savings is if you buy a SLT base or SLT Premium package, then then the CarbonPro package is partly paid for by not ordering the spray-in liner. Good luck finding an SLT optioned like that.