Nitrousbird

So these are pretty easy to find on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/317792903215?fits=Make%3AChevrolet&_skw=For+2015-2018+Chevrolet+Silverado+Wireless+Charger+Tray+15W&itmmeta=01KHBXW6JMN15TT4JPS5PFEFQ0&hash=item49fdeee02f:g:B4EAAOSwOB1oHBJb&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABIGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBosOND%2BaIMnRIoNs8WxBNcXvOXRp5E8FApOWKjBDT9v9vIl8N%2FjKZIf3SGxNNK461CEvyMkiCGGniGrf%2FzA5OoYSowhRpn0SH0DfOj8df6Ddyc6N9G7KkHqX3bZ2xYfk0itM%2Bg1XL5bDm1v9LA7B%2BtlSRh97oMpM%2BNlDF8LiCrlh9eKwYZ8n43yfiOx1ucmbMdxR14joDg5Qtq38c92XhnWOU00e4PD00%2BjzwqKQ33Mm6hi31Myy3XE8CvnUO2egtUdVjbyMU8cxyL4%2F44qGmrETojo5%2Bxsmjr1c6wqBqK0sEY8EnWb46Pb2AzXXw6KUKMSB0zv7Puwv4UOIeiGAUnkfitJkTE4OahfHvV412V4A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM_unw_Ypn Anyone do the upgrade? Even with the "improved" wireless charger in the 2018, it is absolute trash, and I never use it. It is too slow and the tray is too narrow for modern, large phones (I rock a S24 Ultra currently). I'm also curious about this one: https://www.amazon.com/CZmenghe-Compatible-2015-2018-Replacement-Accessories/dp/B0GLZB7MV2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2D2H62KEHK0GW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rCjDHNGPtsOkRUUbdH0-4sfHNjikh-OTcqZ2U2Gl3g2LOUzDKVxKv6yPEYPr-e_x0eltka8MA7SrnlNFKAEF569RxBCoGYztErBMO91SxxrzXCdyd2nzR4HKJycb-MxQYctoEvEjZZPuDIVJsr4JFvOFcadq_ucU0invUjozXzIJiPQPiWonozgGFMmzjP0m_HsL0nZhBRdbzhC29JQotfBV-2C7DnVPMqmihJBviWs.oIPCF2YEj9A3MBXa0kz_UytSkjfiQr2AH6YEKg0Nsw4&dib_tag=se&keywords=2018%2Bsilverado%2B15w%2Bwireless%2Bcharger&qid=1771000411&sprefix=2018%2Bsilverado15w%2Bwireless%2Bcharger%2Caps%2C300&sr=8-5&th=1 More expensive but has the magent built-in as well.

Mine is 7 years, 4 months old, and it still works. This includes going 2 weeks in an airport parking lot recently, where it was at or below freezing the whole time. How long is everyone else getting before these are finally dying? My wife made it 12 years on the original battery in her Audi S4...but that one is bigger than what our trucks get, and Audi does a lot of battery management that GM doesn't. Just curious how long I'll be able to stretch it.

Replaced the rears this weekend - inner pads on both sides were totally done with the outers having maybe 10-15% lift left but were not making full rotor contact. Rotors looked like trash. Same look as my front ones looked like last year. I'm now rocking new factory rotors all around and upgraded to my go-to street pads (Akebono). Slider pins were in perfect shape and no other issues I could find, just premature wear.

I've owned my late build 2018 since new. Had to replace the front pads (and rotors) a year ago at 25k miles. Pads worn, not making contact on the whole rotor face, making noise - the normal not working situation. I replaced with Akebono pads and OEM rotors. Now, at 36k (by far the most miles I've driven this truck in a year, somehow), the rears are gone with the same issue. I'd say half of my miles are long trips on the freeway, with the rest mixed use of interstate, back roads and surface streets. 3k miles of towing, but 2k of it is all long trips, all with trailers with functional brakes. Just seems really poor pad life though my last two trucks were on non-OEM pads, so hard to say what their original pad life was.

'18 SLT Premium Plus w/ the L86, 36k miles. I first had this problem in mid-June. Towing my 24' enclosed trailer packed with our SXS and a bunch of other stuff (probably around 7500lbs total), after driving for hours on the highway, pulled off, stuck in traffic for 10 minutes, and then stopped for gas. Filled up and upon restart, it cranked REALLY SLOW. Thought it might not crank over but it did. Temp was in the 90's. Since then, I've had it happen a couple more times, only after towing. The last time was yesterday...this time, only towed a 1/2 hour with the trailer empty and hauling nothing else (so 4000lbs). Only low 70's out and the truck sat for 20 minutes before restarting it and got a slow crank again. No signs of battery issues. I will go weeks without using the truck and fires up quickly every time. Is starter heat soak a normal issue for these trucks? Should I swap out the starter? I've owned it since new and this is the first I've had with this problem. Water/tranny temps all good.

Blackstone saved me some big money. My Vette had titanium in the oil - punted it while I could sell it for a profit.

Totally random flashing. May stay out for several seconds, be solid for a while, flash in and out quickly or slowly. Nothing that one could indicate being some type of trouble code.

Still rocking the factory battery. Mine gets the added bonus of not getting run for weeks a time, so not the easiest battery life. Never seen a charger.

Late build 2018 with 20k miles. The backlight on the AC button likes to flash. Will do it while driving, will do it while parked, will do it whether I push the button or not. Sometimes it will be solid, sometimes totally out, but mostly flashes on and off. Besides replacing the who HVAC control panel, any reasonable fixes for this? Annoying. No other buttons have this problem.

I use the USB in center console compartment for my AAWIreless device, so Android Auto is all wireless for me The wireless chargers in these trucks are a total joke, in both power and being too small. The other USB ports in the open part of the center console charge way too slowly as well. I'd like to repurpose them to actually have some real charging with no connection with the head unit. Any ideas on a good way to accomplish this? I realize I can plug in a 12V charger, but I want it to be as clean looking as possible. I currently have my 45W quick charger in the center console 12V slot and fish the cable through the cutout under the lid, but hate the cable going over the cup holder. Basically, I'd like to feed this 45W charger directly to the built in USB ports (or at least 1 port), so I can just plug in a 6" USB-A to USB-C cable, or change the port out to be a USB-C port.

Carvana offered me more than I paid for my truck new. Problem is finding a replacement truck. Tried at my go-to high volume dealer (as they have sane prices), but nothing in-stock for what I want (loaded AT4 with the diesel or 6.2). I've decided to wait until the '22 comes out then try upgrading then, as they are supposed to have an updated interior. I realize I will be paying more but if I can drive my truck for almost 3 years for nothing or next to nothing, I can deal with that and have a newer, even nicer truck. But it will require both getting the right truck and the right price for mine or I'll simply keep mine.

Just use Android Auto or CarPlay, then use Google Maps or Waze. FAR better maps and won't cost you anything. If you happen to be going to an area without cell service, simply download the offline maps. No reason to use the built-in garbage GPS.

Go to YouTube and subscribe to Goat Rope Garage. He has a tutorial series (and it is pretty in-depth) that you can start learning from. There is a LOT to it and he covers a ton of stuff. If you want to really start tuning beyond disabling AFM and the easy stuff, you need to get a wideband. I recommend the AEM 30-0334. It connects via OBD, so you don't have to use the Pro Link to pole data from it, HP Tuners fully supports it, and has a fast response rate.

There is a company on eBay that sell stainless exhaust bolts (alloyboltz). I bought a set of header studs for my LS7 and the quality is actually really good while being FAR cheaper than the ARP bolts. I would recommend going that route. Once my truck is out of warranty - and assuming I keep it - I will be doing this upgrade on it.

Tip for anyone doing this upgrade (and why wouldn't you, it's pretty cheap and a great upgrade): in the settings app, set it to Passthrough. I was having some inconsistent connection issues and this resolved it. It is also connecting faster now - as fast or faster than when I was plugging it in directly.