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Nitrousbird last won the day on January 2 2019

Nitrousbird had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Powell, OH
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  • Drives
    '18 Sierra SLT 6.2 Premium Plus / '06 C6 Z06 (not stock)

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  1. I use the USB in center console compartment for my AAWIreless device, so Android Auto is all wireless for me The wireless chargers in these trucks are a total joke, in both power and being too small. The other USB ports in the open part of the center console charge way too slowly as well. I'd like to repurpose them to actually have some real charging with no connection with the head unit. Any ideas on a good way to accomplish this? I realize I can plug in a 12V charger, but I want it to be as clean looking as possible. I currently have my 45W quick charger in the center console 12V slot and fish the cable through the cutout under the lid, but hate the cable going over the cup holder. Basically, I'd like to feed this 45W charger directly to the built in USB ports (or at least 1 port), so I can just plug in a 6" USB-A to USB-C cable, or change the port out to be a USB-C port.
  2. Carvana offered me more than I paid for my truck new. Problem is finding a replacement truck. Tried at my go-to high volume dealer (as they have sane prices), but nothing in-stock for what I want (loaded AT4 with the diesel or 6.2). I've decided to wait until the '22 comes out then try upgrading then, as they are supposed to have an updated interior. I realize I will be paying more but if I can drive my truck for almost 3 years for nothing or next to nothing, I can deal with that and have a newer, even nicer truck. But it will require both getting the right truck and the right price for mine or I'll simply keep mine.
  3. Just use Android Auto or CarPlay, then use Google Maps or Waze. FAR better maps and won't cost you anything. If you happen to be going to an area without cell service, simply download the offline maps. No reason to use the built-in garbage GPS.
  4. Go to YouTube and subscribe to Goat Rope Garage. He has a tutorial series (and it is pretty in-depth) that you can start learning from. There is a LOT to it and he covers a ton of stuff. If you want to really start tuning beyond disabling AFM and the easy stuff, you need to get a wideband. I recommend the AEM 30-0334. It connects via OBD, so you don't have to use the Pro Link to pole data from it, HP Tuners fully supports it, and has a fast response rate.
  5. There is a company on eBay that sell stainless exhaust bolts (alloyboltz). I bought a set of header studs for my LS7 and the quality is actually really good while being FAR cheaper than the ARP bolts. I would recommend going that route. Once my truck is out of warranty - and assuming I keep it - I will be doing this upgrade on it.
  6. Tip for anyone doing this upgrade (and why wouldn't you, it's pretty cheap and a great upgrade): in the settings app, set it to Passthrough. I was having some inconsistent connection issues and this resolved it. It is also connecting faster now - as fast or faster than when I was plugging it in directly.
  7. First, you buy this: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Install the setup app from the Play store on your phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.aawireless&hl=en_US&gl=US I added Velcro to the back of it so it would stay in place. Plug in the USB and setup via the app. I also like the feature where it will start directly to Android Auto without having to hit the button for it. Connection takes a little longer than wired, but doesn't feel any longer than the Android Auto Wireless connection on the Kenwood unit in my Vette. I'm so glad this is now available - having to plug in a wire every time I get in my truck sucked and I got way to used to it in my car. Edit: Before someone asks...yes, your truck needs to have wired Android Auto in it for this to work.
  8. This doesn't really take a study. Carvana a couple months ago offered more for mine than what I paid for it new (mind you, I got my for 17k under MSRP, so that does help). That's a nice offer that I wanted to take, but I have since struggled to find a replacement truck. I'm just waiting for the '22 AT4 to come out with the updated interior now.
  9. Had an incident today. I'm getting rid of a long-term project I'm sick of seeing and don't want to finish. Many years stored outdoors and I was just prepping for pics/sale. While driving it back to it's spot (after also inflating the tires), the strap holding it failed. Parking brake is also bad I discovered, and the blocks of wood that were there for wheel chalks were also not sufficient (stick car with no engine in it). Only damage is the tailgate. Magically not even a mark on any part of the bumper and no paint damage either. I'm guessing an insurance claim but if I can keep in under 1k I might not. Not sure if just the outer skin is sold, the whole tailgate, etc. I suck at body work but can easily disassemble it and do whatever is needed. Thought on the direction I should go for this repair.
  10. So can anyone comment on the exhaust ticking sound (not the normal diesel knocking sound). I just want to verify whether it is normal OR if it was because of the crappy lifted truck I test drove. Thinking more about it, the diesel probably makes more sense for me. I don't really put the hammer down often on my current truck. Fuel mileage or even the additional $1500 for the 6.2 isn't a big factor. But range is a factor, as when we do long trips, that longer range would be beneficial. Also, from what I've seen on these towing videos, the diesel seems a little more laid back when putting the power down and is quieter doing that, which is obviously less tiring. I do not want a loud truck...I have a loud car for that fix, as well as my speed fix. Speaking with the wife, we may end up adding 1-2 extra long towing trips a year going forward, so that becomes a bigger priority.
  11. That's totally missing my point. In the Denali and AT4, they come standard with the spray-in liner, so the CarbonPro isn't offsetting that cost. Same goes for the SLT Premium Plus packaged trucks. The Elevation and lower models can't get the CarbonPro package, so it's a moot point. The only savings is if you buy a SLT base or SLT Premium package, then then the CarbonPro package is partly paid for by not ordering the spray-in liner. Good luck finding an SLT optioned like that.
  12. But who ported the MSD intake? There have been cases where porting actually has hurt the MSD performance over stock, due to the person doing the porting not being good at what they do. Now if it was a Mamo ported MSD, that's a different story. I have an MSD on my LS7 and I know I'm leaving a good 20 RWHP on the table not having Mamo port it - leaving another 15-20 RWHP more due to the stock TB (car has ported heads and a big cam, so it can make use of the extra airflow).
  13. I've decided to make the upgrade as well. I have an '18 SLT Premium Plus with the 6.2L. It was as close to a Denali Ultimate that you could get without getting one - I then did then the Denali cluster (which in the '19+ is the AT4 and Denali cluster) and wheels to get it that much closer. The '19+ trucks have a lot more toys available than the '14 - '18 trucks For me, I'm fine with the cab room, ride, power, etc. on my '18 - heck, if it wasn't for the stupid money being offered on newer, low mileage vehicles like mine, I'd just keep it. But the newer ones are nicer for sure. No complaints about the 8-speed, though. I had the shudder issues and the dealer flushed it with the new fluid that totally resolved the issue. After looking at the '21 Denali and AT4, I like the AT4 better. I think it looks better and I won't complain that is is cheaper. Only difference is all the chrome and fake wood I don't like, Mag Ride I have very mixed feelings about, and power running boards I could always add later (and likely would). One downside is the tonneau covers for the '19+ are differnet, so my $1000 Undercover Ultra Flex won't transfer over. Unless I get more for trade, I'm pulling that and selling it but will lose my butt on it I'm sure. Catch can is different between the 6.2 motors, so that will be sold as well. I expected to keep her for several more years - who would have thought I would be getting offers for more than I paid for it new 2.5 years later?
  14. The ticking sounded like it was from the exhaust in the back of the truck. It wasn't the diesel knocking sound, it was an audible tick (higher pitch). I wasn't thrilled to drive this "upgrade" truck (hell, even the bolts holding on the flares had corrosion - on a brand new truck). There were rattles that I know wouldn't be there on a stock truck and the ride sucked. I didn't hammer it off the line, but did a hammering at 5-10MPH and it just didn't have a lot to show for it. It's too bad I couldn't have driven a proper example, but we have a lot of GMC dealers and inventory is total crap, unfortunately.
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