LongrangeLauber

Doing a full overhaul on the A/C in the truck (2014 Silverado 1500, 4wd, 5.3L) and am finding conflicting info regarding the PAG oil capacity for the total system. One website claims 3.4oz, the other claims 7.1oz. Everything is brand new besides the evaporator (compressor, lines, condenser, TXV). I also did a flush on the evaporator since I have it opened up. Everything is dry (minus the 3oz GM put into the replacement compressor.) Just need some solid info on which is correct, or is the 3oz already added to the replacement compressor enough for the entire system? Also, if I do need to add more to the system, just dump the PAG all into the compressor, or distribute it amongst the parts (1oz here, 1oz there, etc)? Thanks all!

I have not. Ended up having to replace the catalytic converter in the truck and now I’m waiting on a replacement rack and pinion to show up so I can install that. So, upgraded struts have been on the back burner for now. I still do like to look at them though, just to get an idea on price. I’ve definitely been leaning towards the Fox 2.5 DSC’s. Let me know your review on them once you get them dialed in for your truck. At this point, it’ll be either a next year or following year project.

Looking for a set of tail lights for a 2014-2015 Silverado 1500 (K2 designation.) These are the non-LED type tail lights. Show me what you have and the condition, as well as cost shipped (zip code 22556). Thanks all

I will add this, since I've installed the new OEM y-pipe assembly, I've driven approximately 300 miles. My miles per gallon have gone up about 1- 1.5 mpg since then. Even lifted on 35s with 4.56 gears, I'm now averaging about 15.5-16mpg around town (slightly lower on the highway.) Yes, the speedometer is corrected for the gears and tires. I dialed it in perfectly based on GPS speeds and GPS distance driven. I know the computer is a little exaggerated with the mpg claims, and based on previous calculations it reads approximately 0.5 mpg better than actual. So realistically I'm getting about 15-15.5mpg. Still better than 13.5-14 mpg (hand calculated) when I had the 420/ 430 codes logged in the computer. Need to take it into a shop and get this emissions test done finally

Didn't have time to chime in earlier when I saw the notification but yes, this whole issue started with a failed upstream sensor. Now that I know the damage that a failed sensor can do, as soon as I see a CEL come on and driveability suffer, I'm pulling over and parking it. Cheaper to pay a tow bill at that point

Fixed the emissions issue with a new OEM GM catalytic converter y- pipe assembly (part #: 19420276). I can finally go get my emissions test done and quit riding around on 5 month old dead tags! Next mod I think I have in mind are some coilovers for the front. Looked at the Rough Country Vertex coilovers and the price was appeasing, but I've read that they are not rebuildable. So I think I'm locked into the Fox coilovers that BDS offers as an upgrade option when you purchase the lift. This will probably be down the road a little ways, but maybe I'll do a few small things here and there because I can't ever leave anything alone for long lol

Magnaflow part #51206 https://www.magnaflow.com/products/51206-catalytic-converter-magnaflow-oem-grade-federal-epa-compliant-universal-catalytic-converter

Well, installed the new sensors last week and no dice (wasn't getting my hopes up on that one.) So, I ordered a new OEM catalytic converter y-pipe assembly (part #: 19420276) that I picked up from my local dealership. Just installed it this morning before a couple graduation parties I had to attend. No check engine light all day and stuck the code reader on it to see if the permanent codes that were stored had self cleared. Sure enough, all DTC codes are cleared and only one monitor hasn't run it's drive cycle and that's the EVAP system. It's looking like the OEM catalytic converter assembly did the trick for me. After wasting so much time and money on this issue, it seems like I have finally resolved the issue. A couple take aways I learned from this: 1) When having to replace catalytic converters, just go straight to the OEM part and don't waste your money on aftermarket cats (between install and the cost of the cats, I would have almost paid for the OEM converter assy with me installing it on my own) 2) Find a reputable shop that can properly diagnose the issue. Turns out the dealership was correct when they told me the aftermarket catalytic converters were not performing their duties properly, thus the codes remained set. But, the first shop I took it to said the aftermarket cats were performing their duties properly and thus they never revisited them as a potential issue. I'm a little upset I had to pay for not only the OEM cat assy but also the aftermarket cats as well, and labor to install them, but I learned a valuable lesson for future vehicles. I can finally quit riding around on dead tags and not be worried about possibly getting a ticket for them. Definitely a learning experience that I hope I never have to go back through again. I hope someone in the future finds this thread and it helps them out before they throw a bunch of money at their truck like I did. Thank you all for chiming in with your thoughts and opinions along the way as I struggled (along with an independent shop) to diagnose this issue!

Also seems like the Vertex are not rebuildable. Definitely a huge con. May just be worth it to go with the Fox coilovers so I can rebuild them in the future when they wear out. Truck already has 172k on it but I plan on keeping it for a while still. Decisions, decisions...

It looks like the Vertex coilovers come with a 3 year warranty and the Fox only come with a 1 year warranty. Seems like another win for the Vertex, although I don't see either of them failing within 5 years of install. Really leaning towards the Vertex at $1300 compared to the Fox at $2200 (cheapest I've found them so far.) Hopefully someone here has some insight into both of them and pro/ cons of each. Really looking for the best on road ride and street manners (without reaching too far into the pocketbook lol)

Curious what everyone's opinion is on the different brands of 2.5" coilovers for the K2 trucks. Truck is currently setting on a BDS 6" lift with the rear leafs and Fox 2.0 rear shocks. The front shock/ strut is the standard one from BDS. I've never loved the way it has rode and I'm looking at possibly upgrading by the end of the year. I've been eyeing the RC Vertex coilovers and the Fox 2.5 Factory Series coilovers. Naturally the Fox coilovers are what are offered through BDS as an upgrade when you purchase the lift. Between those two (or if there are other options available such as King, Icon, etc.) which would you pick and why? The price point on the RC Vertex coilovers is a huge plus, so is it worth the extra coin to go with the Fox coilovers? They would match the rear shocks I have, but I'm not terribly worried about that. Truck is mainly a pavement princess. Only time she sees dirt roads is when I go shooting over at the farm, and gravel roads are also not very common for me. Just looking to improve the on road ride of this thing.

Turns out I do have NTK downstream sensors (I even had mentioned that earlier in this thread, completely forgot about it.) I just ordered up two GM Genuine Parts O2 sensors from Advance Auto that will be here sometime today (gotta love same day delivery!) for a little more than $60 for both (20% discount plus $20 off SpeedPerks coupon). Not saying this will solve the issue, but for $60 it's worth a shot before dropping big bucks on a new Y-pipe assembly. I looked into transferring to another address in a jurisdiction that does not require emissions. Unfortunately since my tags are already dead, and it is currently registered in a county that requires emissions, I would have to pass the emissions inspection before I could even register it elsewhere. Or maybe I'm just reading the VA DMV rules incorrectly. Who knows. But this is affecting how the truck drives somewhat, so I do want to get it resolved one way or another. New Y-pipe assembly will cost me about $1550 (core charge included) to purchase. I cannot return my current Y-pipe for core unfortunately since the factory cats have been cut out and replaced. I will continue to update this thread until I figure out the solution.

^^ Direct from AllData

Will have to see if any of my sensors are NTK branded. Pretty sure my upstreams are Denso sensors, cannot recall what the downstream sensors are though.