LongrangeLauber

Doing a full overhaul on the A/C in the truck (2014 Silverado 1500, 4wd, 5.3L) and am finding conflicting info regarding the PAG oil capacity for the total system. One website claims 3.4oz, the other claims 7.1oz. Everything is brand new besides the evaporator (compressor, lines, condenser, TXV). I also did a flush on the evaporator since I have it opened up. Everything is dry (minus the 3oz GM put into the replacement compressor.) Just need some solid info on which is correct, or is the 3oz already added to the replacement compressor enough for the entire system? Also, if I do need to add more to the system, just dump the PAG all into the compressor, or distribute it amongst the parts (1oz here, 1oz there, etc)? Thanks all!

I have not. Ended up having to replace the catalytic converter in the truck and now I’m waiting on a replacement rack and pinion to show up so I can install that. So, upgraded struts have been on the back burner for now. I still do like to look at them though, just to get an idea on price. I’ve definitely been leaning towards the Fox 2.5 DSC’s. Let me know your review on them once you get them dialed in for your truck. At this point, it’ll be either a next year or following year project.

Looking for a set of tail lights for a 2014-2015 Silverado 1500 (K2 designation.) These are the non-LED type tail lights. Show me what you have and the condition, as well as cost shipped (zip code 22556). Thanks all

I will add this, since I've installed the new OEM y-pipe assembly, I've driven approximately 300 miles. My miles per gallon have gone up about 1- 1.5 mpg since then. Even lifted on 35s with 4.56 gears, I'm now averaging about 15.5-16mpg around town (slightly lower on the highway.) Yes, the speedometer is corrected for the gears and tires. I dialed it in perfectly based on GPS speeds and GPS distance driven. I know the computer is a little exaggerated with the mpg claims, and based on previous calculations it reads approximately 0.5 mpg better than actual. So realistically I'm getting about 15-15.5mpg. Still better than 13.5-14 mpg (hand calculated) when I had the 420/ 430 codes logged in the computer. Need to take it into a shop and get this emissions test done finally

Didn't have time to chime in earlier when I saw the notification but yes, this whole issue started with a failed upstream sensor. Now that I know the damage that a failed sensor can do, as soon as I see a CEL come on and driveability suffer, I'm pulling over and parking it. Cheaper to pay a tow bill at that point

Fixed the emissions issue with a new OEM GM catalytic converter y- pipe assembly (part #: 19420276). I can finally go get my emissions test done and quit riding around on 5 month old dead tags! Next mod I think I have in mind are some coilovers for the front. Looked at the Rough Country Vertex coilovers and the price was appeasing, but I've read that they are not rebuildable. So I think I'm locked into the Fox coilovers that BDS offers as an upgrade option when you purchase the lift. This will probably be down the road a little ways, but maybe I'll do a few small things here and there because I can't ever leave anything alone for long lol

Magnaflow part #51206 https://www.magnaflow.com/products/51206-catalytic-converter-magnaflow-oem-grade-federal-epa-compliant-universal-catalytic-converter

Well, installed the new sensors last week and no dice (wasn't getting my hopes up on that one.) So, I ordered a new OEM catalytic converter y-pipe assembly (part #: 19420276) that I picked up from my local dealership. Just installed it this morning before a couple graduation parties I had to attend. No check engine light all day and stuck the code reader on it to see if the permanent codes that were stored had self cleared. Sure enough, all DTC codes are cleared and only one monitor hasn't run it's drive cycle and that's the EVAP system. It's looking like the OEM catalytic converter assembly did the trick for me. After wasting so much time and money on this issue, it seems like I have finally resolved the issue. A couple take aways I learned from this: 1) When having to replace catalytic converters, just go straight to the OEM part and don't waste your money on aftermarket cats (between install and the cost of the cats, I would have almost paid for the OEM converter assy with me installing it on my own) 2) Find a reputable shop that can properly diagnose the issue. Turns out the dealership was correct when they told me the aftermarket catalytic converters were not performing their duties properly, thus the codes remained set. But, the first shop I took it to said the aftermarket cats were performing their duties properly and thus they never revisited them as a potential issue. I'm a little upset I had to pay for not only the OEM cat assy but also the aftermarket cats as well, and labor to install them, but I learned a valuable lesson for future vehicles. I can finally quit riding around on dead tags and not be worried about possibly getting a ticket for them. Definitely a learning experience that I hope I never have to go back through again. I hope someone in the future finds this thread and it helps them out before they throw a bunch of money at their truck like I did. Thank you all for chiming in with your thoughts and opinions along the way as I struggled (along with an independent shop) to diagnose this issue!

Also seems like the Vertex are not rebuildable. Definitely a huge con. May just be worth it to go with the Fox coilovers so I can rebuild them in the future when they wear out. Truck already has 172k on it but I plan on keeping it for a while still. Decisions, decisions...

It looks like the Vertex coilovers come with a 3 year warranty and the Fox only come with a 1 year warranty. Seems like another win for the Vertex, although I don't see either of them failing within 5 years of install. Really leaning towards the Vertex at $1300 compared to the Fox at $2200 (cheapest I've found them so far.) Hopefully someone here has some insight into both of them and pro/ cons of each. Really looking for the best on road ride and street manners (without reaching too far into the pocketbook lol)

Curious what everyone's opinion is on the different brands of 2.5" coilovers for the K2 trucks. Truck is currently setting on a BDS 6" lift with the rear leafs and Fox 2.0 rear shocks. The front shock/ strut is the standard one from BDS. I've never loved the way it has rode and I'm looking at possibly upgrading by the end of the year. I've been eyeing the RC Vertex coilovers and the Fox 2.5 Factory Series coilovers. Naturally the Fox coilovers are what are offered through BDS as an upgrade when you purchase the lift. Between those two (or if there are other options available such as King, Icon, etc.) which would you pick and why? The price point on the RC Vertex coilovers is a huge plus, so is it worth the extra coin to go with the Fox coilovers? They would match the rear shocks I have, but I'm not terribly worried about that. Truck is mainly a pavement princess. Only time she sees dirt roads is when I go shooting over at the farm, and gravel roads are also not very common for me. Just looking to improve the on road ride of this thing.

Turns out I do have NTK downstream sensors (I even had mentioned that earlier in this thread, completely forgot about it.) I just ordered up two GM Genuine Parts O2 sensors from Advance Auto that will be here sometime today (gotta love same day delivery!) for a little more than $60 for both (20% discount plus $20 off SpeedPerks coupon). Not saying this will solve the issue, but for $60 it's worth a shot before dropping big bucks on a new Y-pipe assembly. I looked into transferring to another address in a jurisdiction that does not require emissions. Unfortunately since my tags are already dead, and it is currently registered in a county that requires emissions, I would have to pass the emissions inspection before I could even register it elsewhere. Or maybe I'm just reading the VA DMV rules incorrectly. Who knows. But this is affecting how the truck drives somewhat, so I do want to get it resolved one way or another. New Y-pipe assembly will cost me about $1550 (core charge included) to purchase. I cannot return my current Y-pipe for core unfortunately since the factory cats have been cut out and replaced. I will continue to update this thread until I figure out the solution.

^^ Direct from AllData

Will have to see if any of my sensors are NTK branded. Pretty sure my upstreams are Denso sensors, cannot recall what the downstream sensors are though.

That’s exactly how it started. CEL came on and was flashing and the truck stuttered and slammed back into gear real violently, then CEL went solid. It did it intermittently for about 100 miles/ 2 days until I had a chance to diagnose it. Confirmed it had a bad upstream O2 sensor. Replaced and the code for sensor went away but the p0420 stayed and eventually a p0430 showed up within a couple months. Thats when I took it to the shop and had them replace both catalytic converters with Magnaflow ones. Codes persisted and shop said it was O2 sensors. So they replaced all four sensors and codes came back shortly after leaving the shop. After that is when I took it to the dealership.

Yeah I can undo my battery for about 30min and it does a full reset of the ECM and the codes will go away for a day or two but come back. Goodluck on your diagnosis, I’m getting tired of spending money on this thing. If it doesn’t pass through one of those rapidpass units then I’ll just register it in a different county that doesn’t have emissions.

Yeah I’ve watched quite a few of his videos and he really seems to know his stuff. It may be worth it but that’s a decent drive from where I’m at. Here in VA for emissions testing they have roadside emissions equipment where you drive by it and it will pass or fail your vehicle if it gets a good reading, it’s called RapidPASS. They’ll have one in my area early next week so I’m going to drive by it a few times and give it a week and check to see if I pass or not. If you pass you can then proceed to renew your plates through the DMV. Interesting system so I’m hoping the truck at least passes that so I can quit riding around on dead tags for now at least.

Essentially they want the truck back to OEM before proceeding with diagnosis. It may very well be the aftermarket (Magnaflow) cats still causing issues for me. I won’t know though until I purchase a new OEM y-pipe and install it. If it fixes it, then I could contact Magnaflow and request a refund since they claim to have a warranty that the parts are guaranteed for your vehicle to pass emissions or your money back. Been looking around online at the OEM part and they’re all roughly the same price, seeing if there’s anywhere close enough where I could just pick it up and save the freight since that seems to be where I’m not saving money compared to ordering locally from a dealership.

Dealership told me the aftermarket cats weren’t performing as well as OEM cats. Haven’t replaced them yet just because of the money it costs. They told me they couldn’t proceed with the diagnosis until I replaced them with the OEM cats. So either it’s the cats or it could possibly be something else.

Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealership this afternoon. I had checked all the traces for all 4 oxygen sensors from the ECM and fuse block and all of them had continuity and only about 0.1 ohms of resistance max, so that indicates to me that all the wiring for them is fine. My best guess is either some of the new oxygen sensors are just no good or the ECM has something going on internally. I’m expecting it to be the latter of the two. Hopefully I’ll get a call about it tomorrow sometime!

I was wondering if my ECM flaked out as well. That thought has always been in the back of my head ever since these issues started. Any idea what it would cost for a new one? I'm sure the programming portion is the most expensive part. I'm wondering if a bad ground could cause an odd issue like this. But you would figure a bad ground would cause all sorts of issues and not just an emissions issue. If they cannot figure it out, I'm sure the stealership can. No doubt this is a tough issue to diagnose. I've been trying to keep cool, but I don't think this shop is actually going through an extensive list and diagnosing each system accordingly. Seems like they're just going off of probable cause and acting off of that.

For anyone looking for this info in the future, here's the part number of what actually comes with the lift. You have to call BDS directly and they are not super expensive (less than $40 a piece). Part # is BDS081602. It fits the 2014-2018 GM 1500 4-6" lifts. The 8" lifts require a different part number. The part number provided was not on the the order by part number section of their website hence the reason you need to call in and order it. Hope this helps someone out there!

Installed some Kryptonite UCA's and Kryptonite lower balls joints the other weekend. Also replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends. Truck definitely seems to handle and ride a lot better now. I'll post up some pics soon of these since I haven't posted pics of the truck in general in a while. Also put on some new tires back in October. General ATx 35x12.50R20. Have fewer plys than the Ridge Grapps I was running and ride so much smoother. Hopefully they hold up as well as the Ridge Grapps, because I got about 60k miles out of those. Currently dealing with emissions issues (P0420 & P0430) codes and have had it in the shop now three times for this issue. Truck definitely drives differently (less giddy up) with these codes present. At first they replaced the cats. Then they tried O2 sensors. Let's see what they come up next. For more info on this issue, checkout the thread I've had going for a while now and been keeping somewhat updated as things progress: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/250763-random-misfire-p0300-and-o2-sensor-codes/page/2/#comment-2566115

So continuation to this issue, hopefully someone reads this in the future to help them out. Took truck back to shop. They assured me it was O2 sensors. Explained to them I had a couple new sensors in there already. They kept saying it was the sensors. Asked them if it wasn't the O2 sensors, will I be refunded? They told me yes. They replaced the O2 sensors. I picked up the truck Friday evening. Not even 10 miles into my drive home, CEL came back on. Called them yesterday morning and (trying to not sound like an ass) asked if they actually had the means of diagnosing this issue or if they were just throwing parts at it and hoping something sticks. Even said if you all cannot figure it out, I will take it to the dealership and have them figure it out. They said bring it back in. Took it back the same day (yesterday) and told them I think it's a fueling or ignition issue and maybe focus on that. So that's where I'm at. I do not think they really like me there. Oh well, last time I use them. I just want them to fix the issue I took it in there for the first time. I'm sure I will be getting a hefty refund or a large credit towards the part/ parts that may actually be bad/ faulty. I've been trying to be nice but they're not taking anything I'm telling them seriously so it's costing them money, because I'm not paying for the parts cannon. I will keep this updated as it progresses and hopefully get to a solution