Mine keeps breaking and my truck is out of warranty. I can change the OEM bushing myself but the best price I found was $35 for the OEM part. I just bought 1 of these, took 10 minutes to install, problem solved!: https://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43102-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B003TYP48C (actually got mine at a local AutoZone with 15% off coupon so it only cost me $21)
There is a procedure written for the Techs to reset the window motor resistance when they install in-channel visors. I don't have access to the instructions so I'm going from memory but it's something like this: Open window the entire way. Close window the entire way and KEEP HOLDING UP ON THE BUTTON for 5-10 seconds. Open window the entire way and KEEP HOLDING DOWN ON THE BUTTON for 5-10 seconds. Close window the entire way and KEEP HOLDING UP ON THE BUTTON for 30 seconds. Leave the window closed (and in the sun if possible) for 24-48 hours so the visor can mold to the channel. I'm not sure that is exact but it's pretty close. I have had the same visors installed for over 5 years without any problems.
Just be careful -- not all the OE and ACDelco rotors are FNC. They sell "standard" ones, "coated" ones (not FNC but it is hard to tell that), and "FNC" ones, both in GM OEM and ACDelco brands. The FNC ones are actually very hard to come by. The coated ones are still very good and will last long too just not as long as the FNC ones. As a side note -- FNC rotors should NOT be turned down. Any shop that is doing that will definitely "smooth" the surface but they are actually removing the FNC (that's where the GM minimum thickness requirement comes in since it relates to the depth of the process into the steel surface). FNC is not a coating; it actually changes the metal properties to a certain depth in the rotor. After that layer is removed the rotors are basically just untreated steel and will warp/shred faster than even cheap auto store rotors.
Google PIT5405 for the info on loose grounds.
There is another ground you can check. On the passenger side front wheel well on the frame to the rear of the wheel. Jack up that corner of the truck and you will see it when the liner moves out of the way. Take that ground off, clean the lug and the spot on the frame, and re-install then cover with some protectant. It may not solve the problem but it only takes about 15 minutes to try and doesn't cost you anything so it's worth a shot.
I've had 20" Yukon Denali chrome wheels like these on my 2015 Silverado for 5 northeast winters now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/282448838849 I just make sure to keep the salt washed off them and then give them a quick coat of wax in the spring and fall. No corrosion or delamination yet!
Another vote for the Extang Solidfold 2.0. I have the "non-2.0" version for 5 1/2 years now with no problems. The 2.0 has improvements that make it even better!
This! Stay away from Chemical Guys stuff, they are overpriced knockoffs. Adams stuff is pretty good. The Rag Company seems to have better quality towels. Also they have an agreement with Optimum Products for other things like wash soap, shine products, paint protectant. Optimum is what most of the professional detailers use.
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