The factory ones came with my truck and they work great but if I didn't already have them I would go with the Bully ones. The only problem with the factory ones is that the backer plate can come off when you remove them and it can drop down between the bed side sheetmetal.
Just FYI -- if you are talking about the black truck in your photo then you can't use a 2014/2015 grill and bumper. The sheetmetal is different and they won't fit so you need 2016-2018 if you are just looking to do a swap.
I just got a set of these in June. Only have about 1000 miles on them so far but they seem pretty good. Smooth and quiet ride (and I even have the 20" ones that ride a little stiffer than the standard 18" wheels) and plenty of traction for road driving. We'll see how they do in the snow this winter. Just FYI concerning their warranty -- they definitely have the best one AS LONG AS YOU DON'T NEED TO USE IT. I actually had LX20's that were great tires but wore out well before the mileage warranty. Continental was very willing to give me a pro-rate for replacement tires but you need to pay the entire bill up front then the dealer submits a claim and once Continental approves it they will mail you a rebate check. I watched my dealer submit the claim the day after I got my tires installed but he warned me Conti was tough to work with. I am now going on almost 4 months and am still trying to get my check ...
Mine keeps breaking and my truck is out of warranty. I can change the OEM bushing myself but the best price I found was $35 for the OEM part. I just bought 1 of these, took 10 minutes to install, problem solved!: https://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43102-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B003TYP48C (actually got mine at a local AutoZone with 15% off coupon so it only cost me $21)
There is a procedure written for the Techs to reset the window motor resistance when they install in-channel visors. I don't have access to the instructions so I'm going from memory but it's something like this: Open window the entire way. Close window the entire way and KEEP HOLDING UP ON THE BUTTON for 5-10 seconds. Open window the entire way and KEEP HOLDING DOWN ON THE BUTTON for 5-10 seconds. Close window the entire way and KEEP HOLDING UP ON THE BUTTON for 30 seconds. Leave the window closed (and in the sun if possible) for 24-48 hours so the visor can mold to the channel. I'm not sure that is exact but it's pretty close. I have had the same visors installed for over 5 years without any problems.
Just be careful -- not all the OE and ACDelco rotors are FNC. They sell "standard" ones, "coated" ones (not FNC but it is hard to tell that), and "FNC" ones, both in GM OEM and ACDelco brands. The FNC ones are actually very hard to come by. The coated ones are still very good and will last long too just not as long as the FNC ones. As a side note -- FNC rotors should NOT be turned down. Any shop that is doing that will definitely "smooth" the surface but they are actually removing the FNC (that's where the GM minimum thickness requirement comes in since it relates to the depth of the process into the steel surface). FNC is not a coating; it actually changes the metal properties to a certain depth in the rotor. After that layer is removed the rotors are basically just untreated steel and will warp/shred faster than even cheap auto store rotors.
Google PIT5405 for the info on loose grounds.
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