Ron.s

I bought BB EFI tune for my 2016 with 6.2 Engine. Very good results but sold my truck so selling my $599 cost for $250. Has ECU-TCU tune, additional vehicle tunes can be purchased for $225 from BB.

I’m running Mobile 1 0-20 synthetic and don’t ever use a quart between oil changes. I go 8-9000 miles usually.

I hate to disagree with the majority but keyless and console shifter for me on upper trims. Properly placed you can shift while resting your elbow. And I love the paddle shifters but not the after thought ones on my Denali that are hard to reach. A good keyless system really has no downside except for a slight “getting used to” by the owner. To each his own!

Thanks tbarn, an informed and helpful reply. When I got my paperwork and read the Service Writers notes it was nothing like what I reported.

OK, dealer visit 3/9/17 update. The dealer tech found "open in roof mounted hi frequency antenna" after "computer systems test". Ordered new antenna. While waxing my truck I noted water coming from under the roof seal. It fits tight but the flimsy top lets the metal flex with moderate pressure. The day after the visit my GPS started working again. I think I got the water out by pressing on the top until it quit weeping. I assume this was creating a short while wet. Funny-I threw this theory at the Service Writer but they ignored this and likely have ordered an unneeded part. I didn't contact them again because this will at least get them to look under the seal. I'll discuss this again when I go back next week for replacement. Now if they plan to remove the headliner I'll reconsider.....

Had to cancel appointment, maybe this week.

After about a year the GPS on my 2016 quit working. A few days before I was waxing the top and the metal is so thin that it flexed around the GPS antenna and water ran out from under seal. It hasn't leaked yet but I suppose that's next. Dealer visit next week.

I also had trouble since I had never done a tune before. The result was good but I found Black Bear slow to respond and the instructions too complicated. Emails were 2-3 days for response and it was over 3 weeks start to finish. That's partially because I sent a bad file and 2 different people sent overlapping email responses. Instructions are complicated because they try to cover all vehicles in one set of instructions. Looking back I think the instructions would work better if you used a laptop so the frequent sub menus can be opened as you tune. I printed them out but had so many sub menus attached that I made mistakes. Apparently I hit a busy time at BB. My suggestion is to use a laptop and take your time if you are a newbie! Great tune though.

I didn't say I had trouble stopping....I had trailer brakes and a controller. You must have read that into my comment about "slowing for traffic and trying to recover". Issue is-lose momentum and try to get back up to cruising speed. And I didn't mean to infer that everything else was rosy. There were three or four recalls and several issues that Toyota wouldn't fix. Terrible infotainment system and Nav not as good as GM by a bunch! Strange very hard downshift and clunk infrequently. Handling not as good as GM, etc. etc. Drivetrain reliability was OK and nothing broke while I owned it. I would say the same about my 14 & 16 GM trucks and frankly don't think Toyota is even close. But if a vibrator is your only criteria the Toyota may be the best truck. But then if you don't tow-buy a midsize and save some money. The Ridgeline might be worth a try. All of the trucks seem to have some issues, although GM may lead in %. But this is getting off topic. My 2016 had a suspension related vibration at high speed that GM/Dealer wouldn't fix. I was lucky and after trying rear spring clamps figured out that the issue was U bolt related. I spent $40 and fixed mine with 9/16" (larger diameter/more torque) replacement U bolts. This also got rid of some driveline slop and now the shocks work like they should.

I went from the Tundra to GM so I could write a book about Tundra issues but sorry to say I did not post on the Tundra Forum. For the most part my Tundra was reliable and resale wasn't bad. Handling and towing way below average and fuel economy towing is a joke. I towed a travel trailer to Alaska and back and had a miserable trip. Carried 12 gallons extra gas and had to use it more than once. The fuel mapping is way off because the truck wants to run high R's (no useable torque) and 6-8 mpg often the result. Even using the select shifting is was almost impossible to drive at peak torque of about 3600, don't hold me to that # it's been a few years might have been 3400. And hills or God forbid having to slow down for traffic and then...try to recover, forget it. When I returned I provided my dealer with a scathing critique and lots of detail including pictures. Toyota flew 2 guys in and spent 2 days with my truck only to report "working as designed". And the 16's are still basically the same setup. I had purchased a trailer with aluminum frame and weight of 4150 dry, never over 5500 during the trip. I also towed a snowmobile trailer that was about 4,000 and other trailers that were lighter. My quick summary conclusion is that Toyota still doesn't understand truck engines. Engine and transmission mapping are bad but the basic engine power band is more "carlike". Great drag racing but that's about it.

They torqued mine to 125# and I haven't checked them again.

My 2014 radio had weak FM reception but my 2016 is better than normal. Subjective assessment comparing it to other vehicles I have owned. I get a decent FM signal 120 miles away and don't lose the signal in areas where my 2014 went to static.

I don't know but here's the contact info: Boise Spring Works 800-585-5332 boisespringworks.com The bolts are 9/16" X 8 1/2" X 2 1/2". The price was $9.69 each. They wrote up the invoice 9/16" X 20" U bolts 2 1/2" and something I can't read, maybe 54. I assume that 20" is the total bolt length. If any confusion I'd be happy to drop back by, but tell them I had the red 2016 GMC on Friday about noon.

Yes, no vibes. Actually mine only vibrated on rough roads at 75-85. But I could fell it kind of "quiver" at lower speeds and Magneride shocks weren't working. The rougher the road the worse it got but no vibe on smoother roads. I call it suspension failure vibe vs rotational out of balance vibe.

This will probably be my last post here. Here's the end of my story. Dealer two couldn't get GM to do anything but gave me the name of a local shop that specializes in suspension and "lifts". (Boise Spring Works). They make their own U bolts, cold rolled. So quick trip to see what they thought and while talking to them they said that they didn't have access to stock for grade 8 bolts below 5/8" but that they torque their 9/16" grade 5 to 125#'s. Perfect!!! Thinking I would get hosed I told them to do mine, they had me back into the shop and went to work.. They removed the existing U bolts to find that the 9/16" would fit without any modifications. I also had them remove the spring clamps noted in a previous post. One guy built the U bolts while another removed the existing.15 minutes later they gave me a bill for less than $40. About like stopping for gas and far less $$ installed than I could buy anywhere. Not often that cost and service both exceed expectations in my world. So thinking I would go back to them next week for new shocks, I did some quick testing. My suspension works the way it should now. RR tracks and other bumps are so much smoother, best riding truck I have ever owned. And now my drivetrain has tightened up. I was getting some slop on and off the gas and that is almost completely gone. I assume the loose U bolts were allowing "axel roll". I'm so happy with my truck now that I ordered a tune from Black Bear. And for those guys switching to Ford..... The shop guys told me several stories about Ford aluminum panels tearing, bed damage on a couple with $3000 repair tab. You don't fix aluminum, just replace it. According to them, GM is bad but Fords are worse and very costly to repair. And they have been adding another leaf spring to some Fords because they built them too light. I always take these kind of discussions lightly but just sayin!!! Anyone that wants to try heavier U bolts-look for a local "spring works" business that specializes in lifts and builds springs and suspension parts for classic cars. Even if it cost triple it's worth it, IMO.