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About awright2009

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  1. 13528272 is the part number $440 parts and labor “10473 BCKT F-Latch” under description
  2. So I have the truck at the dealer right now for the condenser and told them to look at this lock finally. They said about $400 something and it was the latch. Think this is what they will do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBKsL6o0qc4 At first I was like $400, that's too much, but after watching the above video, and seeing the part is like $120, I was like alright, let them do it I'll get the part numbers when they wrap it up
  3. Nah I was just talking about replacing the condenser myself. I’m assuming you mean the brake vacuum? Not too sure about this separate belt driven pump (used to the giant cone shaped brake boosters) But I figure if that ever goes out I can 100% do it myself, shouldn’t be too bad I would think I’ve done master cylinders, brake boosters, and bleeding on different vehicles etc Just never anything serious with working the AC other than charging the system, but never really looked up how to work the AC manifolds properly before now
  4. Trucks at the dealer now, although it turns out you can rent the vacuum pump at autozone and vacuum + recharge yourself. I’ve done a lot of adding r134a to my old truck but never had a vacuum pump, and I think adding too much refrigerant can be as bad as not having enough. Plus a good vacuum is needed or you’ll have air and moisture in the lines. Seems like something easy to screw up. But the guy there looked through the grill with the flashlight for two seconds and confirmed it was the condenser. It would be nice if GM told you of these things while you still have warranty though
  5. I’m tempted by the new Hummer EV, but I have a Silverado, a C7 corvette, and two Harleys. So I think I’m pretty well covered vehicle wise. And GM being A-holes when it comes to fixing design defects out of warranty makes me worry about an electric car I can’t fix myself Look at the A8 transmission and Truck AC condensers for instance
  6. Yeah, it's a 2014 and I'm beginning to think it might be the condenser, might as well change the condenser to AC compressor hose too for the better designed one that doesn't need a bracket at the same time I guess. I would change these out myself, but I don't have a vacuum pump and if you get garbage in the AC system it can cause lots of problems later. So I'll take it in to the dealer next weekend and have them do it. Just held the high pressure / low pressure lines after starting up, small tube gets a little warm, big tube gets a little cool, but not really cold and not really hot, so I think it's working a little bit at least When changing the battery I did kind of push the cover/box/ground cable towards the AC lines, maybe I bent it a bit or something In terms of fuses/relays I checked: https://www.autogenius.info/chevrolet-silverado-mk3-third-generation-2014-2015-fuse-box-diagram/ Driver side fuse box: 22 Heater, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning/ Auxiliary Heater, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Ignition Under the hood 35 Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch 56 Air Conditioning Compressor/ Battery Regulated Voltage Control 57 Air Conditioning Compressor Module/ Battery Pack 68 Air Conditioning Control (This is a relay, swapped positions on it with another one that looked like it, no change)
  7. Just drive it until the transmission gives out (usually around 180-220k for older trucks) flushing the transmission may cause it to fail sooner actually from what I've heard. There are some friction bands that usually give out similar to a clutch
  8. So recently replaced my battery for the second time, walmart battery died after 4 years, but was pro-rated for the 5 year warranty. Did a pretty smooth job changing the battery if I do say so myself (much easier this time around with a handle on the battery) After taking a longer trip today I noticed that the air conditioner is blowing warm, the timing seems suspect with the battery recently changed, but maybe the changing weather here in Texas caused it to slowly leak the refrigerant out. I checked the two fuses under the hood, think 56/57 or some such, and tried turning the key on and off a bunch of times (something about the electric vent motors losing position with a battery change) Looking at the compressor, it's spinning, and I see no obvious signs of a leak, I did add that little support bracket to the lower AC arm as a preventative measure, but got the truck at 38k and have never had an AC problem. At 115k now and am kind of happy it's happening right as we enter the winter season Any ideas? Battery change a red herring? Do I just need a recharge? It went from fine to nothing really quick, which to me means a very bad leak or a fuse someplace
  9. Thanks for the suggestions, went ahead and ordered up some morimoto 2Stroke 2.0‘s from amazon, they look smaller and improved design wise from the Opt7’s. Seems they came out in 2018, here to hope that they outlast the warranty and if not that the company is still around when they do. $129.90 after tax for me, other ones were a bit more expensive (but that lifetime warranty seems tempting)
  10. So I've always used Opt7 Fluxebeam H11 headlights for my 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab and have been happy with them. Sure they die right after the two year warranty, but they've worked great in the heat and the winter (although the fan sounds pretty bad when it's super cold) Today I noticed one bulb is out and I look online and see that they are no longer available. Maybe it's the virus, maybe they were discontinued, who knows. But being that these bulbs are 4 years old now at least since I've started using them, I figure technology in LED lighting has improved since then. What do you guys use? And do you currently have the dust cap installed (or at least can you install the dust cap with the LED bulb on) -- I want the dust cap on for my truck Maybe one day I'll have a headlight without a fan on it (we can dream can't we?)
  11. Just to follow up, was planning to drive it Monday and deal with the issue next weekend, but the first right turn at a stop sign in my neighborhood killed the truck. Since I had to get to work I borrowed a car and my dad took it to get the recalls done and talk with them about it. (He managed to drive it in, with a follow vehicle) They finished two recalls pretty quick (think it was a software update) and the trucks seems fine so far (drove it to work this morning) so I think it was the “Loss of power steering assist” recall doing it I might have a weak ground still as this morning I noticed some dash flickering with headlights, fog lights, wipers etc But it must be connected well enough to make it I’ll update here if it happens again though, but like I said it was low speed turns, which probably stresses the electric power steering a lot
  12. Yeah I was watching that video on the G218, I'll check my battery cable again later (my dad said it was fine, he looked at it before connecting the OBDII) I'll probably go to the dealer for recalls and ask about it, might have them do it before popping my dash apart, but it doesn't look too bad to mess with the driver side ground there so if they want too much I might make the attempt
  13. So I just got the code email from onstar, I have the following: Module ECM Engine System Diagnostic Code P155A Diagnostic Information An issue has been detected in the Traction Control System Recommended Action Service at your convenience
  14. So I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 105k miles currently, I was driving home from the mall area just now making a right hand turn onto an access road with my right turn signal on. I was giving it a little gas as I noticed people were starting to get a green light on the left turn ahead and all the power went crazy. I lost the center console TV screen, lost steering, heard all of the locks sort of make clicking sounds. Then one second later everything came back up like normal. It might have even killed the engine, but I'm not sure if it did or not. The battery is strong, no issues with starting, and I drove it home without stopping or pulling over fine. No check engine light, I pressed the onstar button and had them run a diagnostic, they said something about traction control and shortly after they said that I got a pop up on the dash that said something like "brake assist" or something like that (I could be wrong, kicking myself for forgetting the exact notification, shouldn't of hit OK on it) We put an ODB2 scanner on it anyway, nothing there, and my dad Hit clear on it anyway (maybe a bad idea if anything useful was saved there) I know there were a couple recalls that I need to take care of, but not sure if it's related to an open recall or not Let me know if anyone has any ideas, would hate to have it happen again in a higher speed situation
  15. So I've heard two tips so far, fingernail test (which it fails in places) and to run water on it, if it disappears with water it's in the clear coat. (Does not disappear in places) Beginning to think maybe it was intentional as it would take some pressing to get that deep I would think
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