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sdeeter19555

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sdeeter19555 last won the day on April 14 2018

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About sdeeter19555

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  1. Perfect, that clears that up! Thanks for the information, I'll get a seal locally so I can compare/exchange them if needed. Otherwise, if it is a similar setup to a Dana, should be a straight forward process to R&R. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  2. Ok, I see that nine point socket and have it ordered, but I read a review that one guy had a 10.5AAM that was a six point? Was there such a thing? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. Mine is seized onto the stud, it won't come off now... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  4. I've got Power Stops all the way around, I like them. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. Ok, I have a seeping rear wheel seal on my 2012 2500hd. I understand how these things come apart (I've had my share of Dana 60s/70s/80s apart). What I can't determine from the WWW is what size the axle nut is (what axle nut socket do I need), whether it is a one-time use nut (nyloc) (do I need to order a new one), or the torque strategy for installation (example - Dana are torque to 140 ft-lbs and back off 120 degrees)? I want to make sure I have everything ready before I start tearing into it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  6. Ok, update time... I've got a new toy that I've been driving more than the Silverado...so not many miles getting put on it at the moment. It's more fun to drive a 30 year old truck with a tractor engine... For a little more background, I ran this truck for the first 25k or so on Mobil 1 5w30, then used up a couple 5 gallon pails of Schaeffer's 5w30 Series 9k, went back to Mobil 1 for a stretch, and recently was trying Miles SXR synthetic 5w30 (had good reviews, BITOG spoke highly of it, etc.) for about 15k miles. So the oil change mentioned above was back to Mobil 1 5w30 (I have it for the Equinox), and it was still tapping with the Mobil 1 initially. Fast forward probably 2500 miles and I'm back to normal: no tapping, no weird noises, nada. For those interested, I did cut the filter apart, and it was clean...nothing in the pleats whatsoever. My guess is the Miles was leaving a deposit that the lifters didn't like and by changing to Mobil 1 the detergents changed and removed that deposit and thereby eliminated that lifter tick. The Mobil is still clear/clean on the stick, so if it was a deposit; it wasn't much. I've got another five gallons of Miles, I'll keep it for the OPE and keep the truck on Mobil or Schaeffer's (I'm going to be ordering stuff for my old truck from them, may go back to them for the Series 9k 5w30). Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  7. Well, this is frustrating...what to do... Truck runs fine...lifter will sometimes tick loud enough to hear it with the windows down and the next time it is non-existent. I'm kinda hoping it's a deposit issue and changing oil brands will clean it up...might try a bottle of AutoRX (if they still make it) and give that a whirl. For now, I'm just going to drive it... Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  8. Just a slight tick at idle, nothing else... I'd post a video, but it's too large... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  9. No, oil looked fine...I'm going to cut the filter open tonight and see what it looks like. The whole deal acts like a lifter bleeding down...I had it wound to redline for a decent stretch on Tuesday, runs perfectly fine otherwise. That's why I think lifters is all it needs... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. Ok, talked to my local guy...he's a good mechanic, done right by me so far. He researched it and had this to say: He recommended getting a low mile used engine and swapping...he is concerned that at 175k, they will have more than 15 hours pulling the heads to find the cam is trashed from a failed lifter. I'm not thinking this is that major of a issue, but can see his point to some degree. I almost think he is not wanting to get into it... The only thing that bothers me is I know how this one has been taken care of during owning it, where even a low mile used I wouldn't...I can't imagine this is anything more than a weak lifter since it only ticks at low idle. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  11. Had those replaced about 20k miles ago as the head sheared off the rear bolts on both sides...one of the first things I checked this time because I was hoping for something "easy"... This is definitely a metallic tap, a lot sharper than exhaust... The odd thing is that I drove it to work (about 50 miles) and it was tapping when got there. Drove it home, and not tapping when I pulled in the driveway. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. This just started suddenly...mine has always made a some lifter noise and injector noise, but this is a loud click, like one is bleeding down at idle...goes away with any slight RPM increase. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  13. That's good to know...like I said, the last time I did this was on a Mopar, with standard hydraulic tappets, and it was as simple as pulling the valve covers, pulling the valve train, and using a tool to pull them out. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  14. The passenger's side rear wheel seal is starting to leak. Is there anything odd I need to know about disassembly/replacement? I've been in older Dana 60s/70s/80s, and even an older Corp 14-bolt, so this isn't new territory. Is the retaining nut reusable? So many of the newer ones use a nyloc nut that is a one-time use? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  15. Well, at 175k I guess it is nickel and dime time...2012 2500hd 6.0l... Last Wednesday I drove the truck about 150 miles, when I got to the destination I had a notable lifter tick from the driver's side. This is lifter, not injector, as it is coming more from the oil pan. It is only at idle and when hot...so I am guessing one is bleeding down. Just to make sure, I changed oil on the premise that maybe the oil had sheared or fuel diluted and was out of the 30w viscosity. Dumped this oil with about 3500 miles, and filled with Mobil 1 yesterday...drive it to work this morning and no change. How big a deal is it to replace lifters (if that is what it turns out to be)? I've not done a roller lifter before, the last mopar I did I used a tool to snake them out without much disassembly. Is this something I could have a private garage do, or would a dealer be a better choice here? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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