sdeeter19555

Would a slipping converter or otherwise failing transmission cause this to pop up? It did it a couple times that day, and has not returned; just had the transmission done a week ago for a bad converter.

$4800 Custom converter with better clutch, new pump and pump mods, new sprag, all new bearings and bushings, new clutches, new valves in valve body, new plugs with orings, among other upgrades. 1-2-3 clutches looked good, 4-5-6 were worn but not bad. It was the converter that was causing the issue and that caused the pump to wear. Not bad for 252k miles...

2017 Equinox, bought new...about 90k miles, first time for plugs. What do you make of this? Look like they were leaking?

Right now, looking at $4800 for a complete rebuild with all available upgrades, custom converter (same guy who did my ultra low stall for my old Dodge), and new computer (stops the converter from locking until 5th and 6th). I didn't think that was horrible considering my 47RE was $3200 nearly 20 years ago...

So I started getting a wierd vibration in 6th at low rpm about a year ago, odd resonating; figured it was an exhaust noise (that's what it felt like too). Fluid looks perfect, just changed it a couple weeks ago. Turns out that odd resonation was probably the converter slipping... So Monday it started surging in cruise. I could control it if i didnt run cruise...all other gears seemed ok. Get about 150 miles from home and I can tell it's the converter clutch slipping because it does it on a lugging pull in 3rd as well. Drives fine when the converter is unlocked and if I'm light on the throttle. Drove it back there (300 miles round trip) again Tuesday no change... Funny thing is it only does it when lugging, it does it a whole lot less in tow/haul because it shifts earlier and its at a higher RPM. Any idea on what I might be looking at cost wise for a rebuild? Southeast Pennsylvania if that makes a difference...

Where should I start to look for the cause of this message? Hit twice yesterday, no trailer (and haven't had one behind it for months). I do use the 5th wheel wiring for high-mount brake/tails and backups on a backrack. But all that wiring is soldered and in good shape. No codes are stored that a typical code reader can see. Thoughts on where to start looking?

So I swapped all new AC Delco calipers and calipers brackets from Rock Auto. Installed new AC Delco severe service semi-metalic pads as well. The caliper slides were worn in the caliper, it was causing a rattle. I had replaced the pins and bushings a few times, so it was NOT the pins or bushings. I found this out after swapping parts. Calipers and brackets did not cure my pull to the left. I ordered and replaced all the brake hoses with Raybestos E3, that cured my pull to the left. I think it was the caliper hoses on the right side, the center hoses on the rear axle were wide open. One thing to anyone not experienced with these hoses, they are keyed to the bracket in one direction. I foolishly assumed they were a hex shape, they are not a complete hex (one point is round). The other end is keyed by two tabs, which are different size and again, only one way to fit the bracket. I fought the brackets for a while before realizing this... Amazingly, 240k miles and 13 years of Pennsylvania winters and all the parts came apart easy...I guess oil undercoating is worth my time.

So with 235k on my '12, I think I have a passenger's (right) side caliper hanging up because in a panic stop it jerks left. If you come down on them normally, no jerk (but I'm now thinking I feel a drift left when braking harder). I've just had all four wheels off and all four calipers loose looking for an obvious cause, there is no oil contamination (like a leaking seal) and all the pins are free, so it points to the calipers. It has very recent GM severe service pads and corrosion-resistant rotors, so not touching those unless i absolutely need to. Aside from the jerking wheel, the truck will still stop on a dime. So the plan is just to swap out all four calipers. I think they are also worn on the pins as the fronts rattle when you shake them (and hit bumps). Looks like about $600 for GM/AC Delco calipers, not sure if any other brand is worth looking at? My question is regarding brake hoses. I've been around older Dodge trucks mostly and the hoses on them tend to swell shut internally which then causes poor braking...but those were also 1970s, 80s, and 90s technology. Unless they are physically damaged, do the brake hoses on these modern trucks need replaced periodically?

Interesting, maybe he was making a blanket statement for all of them when he was thinking just newer ones?

So I had a converter built for my old Dodge, and got talking 6L90e because I was driving my truck. He asked how many transmissions I've had done, and I'm like none? He asked how many miles, and I told him 230k. He told me I was an all time record for miles on a 6l90e that he has ever heard, most didn’t make 100k...told me the converters usually burn up which takes out the trans. He did tell me my frequent fluid/filter changes probably help (I also have an extra cooler). So what is the life expectation of a 6l90e?

So with over 230k, the lifter suddenly quieted up...nearly 55k miles later.

Can't be a manifold, both have been replaced (manifold, gaskets, donut seals, and bolts) with no change... Lifters get weak, that's nothing new...

So ballpark, what would is cost to open this up and replace the cam/lifters? I got a verbal quote, but it seems excessive and like they don't want it. Probably do a oil pump and water pump at the same time... Just got back from a 3600 mile run to Cheyenne and back, truck got 14mpg out pushing a headwind and 17mpg back...runs like a top.

Ok, so rising from the dead... I've had this low RPM/idle tick a while now...I have 220k on the clock. Just this week it has gotten louder (or maybe more annoying?). The only thing that changed recently (like last week) is that I went from Mobil 1 5w30 to Mobil full synthetic 5w30...I'm almost wondering if the viscosity is breaking down or just less with the full synthetic than the Mobil 1. I'm going to try getting some Mobil 5w40 (like that European Car oil)...I'd try 5w40 diesel, but I don't want to take a chance of poisoning the cats (although I think Rotella is dual rate CI/SI)... So it's still kicking...doesn't occur a anything about about 1200rpm, it just fades out and a quiet engine.

Ok, they smoked it...no vacuum leaks. They ran some tests and watched the results on their reader/scanner. Everything lead them back to a MAF sensor. There was NO CODE present for the MAF that ever popped. They replaced the MAF and the codes have stayed away for 75 miles now. Before the PO171 code would manifest within a minute and the PO174 would come on after a few miles. So for now, it looks like the problem with the codes may be solved. Hopefully that also solves the AIF problem...time will tell.

I'm completely stock, no tune so kinda hard to disable. That's sort of what I'm finding, one tank of fuel and it goes to some arbitrary %alcohol and never comes back down. I've started another thread about 171/174...

I've searched, nothing hits my symptoms exactly. Truck has 208k, fuel pump replaced as PM around 150k, exhaust bolts and gaskets around 190k, replaced O2 sensors and spark plugs around then also. I bought this truck new... I had my alcohol in fuel (AIF) go wonky on a trip pulling the camper a few years ago, started reading 20% plus AIF even running non-alcohol gas. Running e85 was not possible, it would almost not start. So I assumed the O2 sensors were going bad since they are used to interpret AIF and replaced all four with GM units. No change. A cold start on gasoline was typically bulky and stumbling for about 15 seconds and lopey. I also had a low rpm bucking or surging, but the truck has always had a touch of that since new but this is definitely worse but tolerable. Fast forward to last week, I had the inspection garage run the codes (which I already knew were 171/174 (but no CEL, ever). He check some parameters quickly and the fuel trim and alcohol were all out of whack. He reset that and WOW, nice normal cold starts, truck ran and drove like new, but it (174) would trigger a CEL (171 pops a soft code shortly after reset, 174 may or may not pop a CEL a while later). No other codes are present. A few days later running nothing but e10 93 octane gasoline, and my AIF is back up at 30% and won't come down (it fluctuates slightly, but is around 30%). My cold start stumble and low rpm surging are also back. I took a trip on Wednesday to Annapolis and netted 16 and 17mpg, the truck runs good overall. Still have 171 and 174 as soft codes. Anything particular to look at?

Ok, so following up...I have more issues than O2 sensors. So my alcohol never did settle back down and I've never lost my cold start stumble. I went for inspection and had the local guy hookup his diagnostic deal for a PO171 and PO174, the alcohol was all out of whack and the fuel trim was maxed. He reset just those and WOW the truck started so nice, drove so nice, and the alcohol was back to normal. Fast forward a few days, and running a couple tanks of general e10 premium (93 octane), the alcohol jumped up to 30% and my stumbling is back. PO171 pops up and PO174 will trigger the CEL once in a while (not always). So long story short, the O2 sensors were probably worn but not the underlying issue. For the record, I drove from Harrisburg to Annapolis on Wednesday in Baltimore traffic and got 16 and 17mpg respectively (hand calculated). Not bad for 208k miles and studded snows.

Although there was no indication the harness is bad, the deal finally failed completely. The way it is wired, there is only one way it couldn't have power and that is if the short harness at the headlight was bad. So $50 later, a new harness solved the issues. Hopefully this helps someone down the road.

Update, still chasing it... I did add a relay triggered off the passenger's low beam, which required a diode to prevent it creating a loop (pass headlight turns the relay on, the relay backfeeds the driver's circuit, the relay won't shut off). So after I figured that all out, I thought I had solved the issue. Nope. I have now determined the issue is the passenger's low beam ground...the relay puts reliable power to that headlight, it still dropped out. So I added a ground tonight and pulled the relay as a test for a few days. Anyone tell me where the ground is for the headlights? I pulled, sanded, and put anti-corossion paste on all of them I could find when the truck had nearly zero miles. The truck is oil undercoated so no rust issues. Either I missed it, or I have a wire or connection pulled apart somewhere. Oh, and it is intermittent, so when you pull it apart to start testing, it works and you can't trace it out.

Yeah, when I was doing extended OCIs in my Cummins (some to 45k miles with bypass filters), I ran Wix XPs and Fleetguard synthetic media. For standard OCI, a standard cellulose filter is fine...it's not the life of the filter, it's the capacity of that filter to trap/hold dirt.

Those "synthetic oil" filters are typically a glass fiber and not cellulose. They can trap and hold more dirt, which is good if you do an extended oil change interval. Otherwise, for a normal interval, any good filter will perform fine.

Ok, I now buy that battery comment. It dawned on me yesterday that the computer in these trucks can control each headlamp individually although they are tied to a common relay. Found this out, or more accurately remembered it, doing the TPMS relearn. In the linked thread, I did in fact lose one of the two batteries shortly after this headlight issue. Since I have replaced the batteries, I have not had a single instance of the headlight dropping out. So in conclusion, the truck was likely telling me that I had a failing battery.

I've heard both good and bad with regards to AGM...they don't like overcharging being one bad. My truck occasionally charges at 15.1 or 15.2VDC, I assume it is doing that desulfation cycle but is that considered overcharging? I thought I also remembered someone stating the GMs need the computer told that they have lead acid or AGM batteries for that reason?

I never even gave Amazon a thought. I needed the truck this weekend, so had that urgency on my mind. I guess if you think about it...$400/ten years is really only $40/year. Although I remember buying truck batteries for $25/each!