davester

your body automatically makes more blood for free so it's NBD...

So he wants to take a 20% cut of the value of all the oil and whatever products pass through the strait? That would bump up the price of oil noticeably...

You might find the specs on https://lemon-manuals.la/ or subscribe to alldata.com for your truck.

subscribe to alldata.com, that will have gm's brake bleeding procedure. and what you have to do likely varies, as if you just replaced a caliper and the MC didn't go dry, you most likely can just do a normal bleed on that corner, but if you disconnected lines at the MC or the abs unit, or let the MC run dry while doing work, you'll have to do a more extensive/complicated bleeding procedure.

charm.li (website) or alldata.com has wiring diagrams you can look through to see what things are on what circuit.

look for it's replacement procedure on charm.li or alldata.com For my '12, the sensor is pressed into the evaporator directly, and to replace it w/o pulling the whole hvac box, you cut a hole in a specific spot to gain access to it, and then plug the hole afterwards.

The bcm failing is not the first thing I would consider. I would be using a more advanced bidirectional computer to log what the bcm and rcdlr is doing, and if those systems have any codes.

maybe get a service manual off ebay? or check charm.li (website) or subscribe to alldata.com for it?

Have you already dealt with the trans thermostat, which I think your burb might have? I know the trucks have one that keep the trans temp higher.

If it is just due to low resistance, then I would add LED hyperflash resistors to the left and right brake/turn signal lights, and if that doesn't work, perhaps the parking iights as well.

from looking at the parts for an '18 5.3 or a 6.0 burb on rockauto, it doesn't show a separate oem trans cooler like the trucks have.

Maybe look on the transmission to see if the trans cooler lines are present there, then follow them forward?

I have an Edge Insight CTS2 in my '04 3500, and find it works well. Only real problem I have with it is the obdii connector will work itself free over time, so it stops working and also freaks out the trucks electronics for a bit. Remove and plug it in and it's good to go. More recently, I've taken to zip-tying it in place which also seems to work.

and down the road, replacement of the oil pump belt, it's notable just because the belt is at the rear of the engine, so it's expensive when it does need to be replaced, I believe it originally was every 150k miles, and '23 or later they bumped it up to 200k

You don't have to remove both cables, just one. I would suggest the ground cable, primarily because using a wrench to unscrew/screw it on, the wrench may touch a body panel or something metal on the truck. The body is connected to ground, so you get no spark doing the ground cable. You would get a spark doing this, if you remove the power cable first. The switches you don't need to program. The module at the rear is programmed to the vehicle. There is also a relay (at least there is on my '12) mounted next to the module, which doesn't need programming when it is replaced. The silicon I mentioned is a solid gasket, that is part of the connector that is on the truck's harness (and not something like rtv that is applied to anything). It's like a thick, soft rubber seal that keeps out dirt and moisture from the connector when it's plugged in. If, when you are installing the connector onto the module after it's mounted on the truck, and it feels like you need to apply too much force to the lever, pull the connector off again, and lube that silicon gasket with some dielectric grease (I used a qtip to do this, as the gasket is down inside the connector a bit), then try instaling it again.

? said the guy w a '26 silverado and a '25 burb ?

you would need to get a code reader and check what codes the ecm is generating. I would use one that can also get tcm codes.

If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.

It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together. I also touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules. I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags. The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out. For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on). The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system. That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected. It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work. For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way. I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.

charm.li (website) should have driving instructions for each of the monitors, so increase the likelyhood that the conditions are right for the monitor to run it's test procedure.

Lemon law depends on where the truck was bought and/or where it's registered, as the laws vary quite a bit across different jurisdictions in the US.

passive listening likely misses a lot of useful data for any system probelms (vs bus/communication problems), which are more common. and you would need to poll most everything, because you have no idea what/where the problem happens, and data from just prior to the event is likely more important than what's happening after the event. It would likely be more useful/successful, to be set to look at a specific subsystem, so after some random problem happens, then you attach this device, set to watch/log for that specific problem the next time it happens.

There's also a LOT of data of log, as there are a whole bunch of computers in the truck. The more you log, the less often you can sample it (as the computers and busses are busy running the truck, logging gets whatever is left over.

And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them. google for the code, one is always available.

Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?