davester

I would suggest getting a subscription to the full-service manual for your truck. It's not that expensive, and it includes the complete wiring diagram for your truck, diagnostic procedures for figuring out this problem (may require a tech ii or similar), as well as the location of where the various computers are.

For my '04 Sierra (extended cab, so just front locks), the remote only works if the doors are fully closed. Maybe a sensor/wire isn't quite right, and sometimes the bcm thinks one or more of the doors are open?

My '04 Sierra cab&chassis doesn't look anything like that, and I'm sure the truck hasn't been treated particularly nice (I wash it maybe 4-6 times a year), and p.o.'s probably didn't do much more, and I live in the snow belt and do a bunch of city driving year round. But lots of trucks around hear have fender lips rusted through, even relatively new trucks...

If you do want to swap in a rear axle with disc brakes, make sure it has the right gear ratio, and also that it's the right width, as they come in 3 different widths (DRW, SRW, and DRW cab&chassis).

maybe look at how it's corroding, and figure out how to prevent/reduce water from going to that spot/area?

Put a patch of duct tape over it, and you won't see it anymore... :-)

Basically, the dealer is asking you if you wouldn't mind paying GM a couple grand in interest, so GM will give the dealership a kickback of maybe half of that amount. I would not volunteer to do that...

Really? You want to sue GM because you can't keep mice out of your truck? You've won the internet for today.

thanks for posting your fix.

Because it's something that at least a few people could and do use (150W outlet). Your 15A/120VAC outlet basically requires the plow package upgrade, as would require AT LEAST 150A (more due to losses converting DC to AC). And using it, you either get a dead battery pretty quickly, or you need the truck running AND the motor revved up so the alternators are working at close to their maximum output. That costs a bundle of money to put in every truck, when the majority of people will make do with the low power outlet.

Except if you pull up your brand new truck up next to a pickup from the 70's or earlier, you'll find today's trucks are significantly higher and wider. And I have no idea how you see the child/object/trailer hitch by either turning your head or looking in your mirrors, when they are all directly behind the truck and below the height of the tailgate... As well, more people are using trucks, in more situations which put things in that spot where you can't see by either turning your head or looking in your mirrors.

Getting the rubber bushings out shouldn't be a huge deal, as you can burn or drill them out. You might be get the new ones in with a vise or even pound them in with a hammer. You aren't going to damage the LCA unless you actually try to. But, I haven't actually done it myself...

go to ebay and type in "key with chevy logo"

When the CEL turns off on it's own depends on the specific problem. Some problems, like if the MAF sensor is left unplugged, will turn off right away when it's plugged in again, others will need a certain number of ignition cycles without the problem reoccurring before the light goes off, and others will require one or more testing cycles to complete before it goes off on it's own (where the testing cycle may not happen immediately or take some time to complete).

Well, my '04 Sierra w LQ4, when I changed the knock sensors at 120k miles, the bottom of the intake manifold was filled with oil (as in, while removing it, it tilted a bit and oil spilled out, and then I carefully dumped the rest of the oil in the manifold in a bucket), and the intake ports were coated with carbon.

Cables will rust/stick in place, same with the brake mechanism inside the rear hub. I also don't use the parking brake much, but I do periodically use it to stop the truck near my house, just to make sure they still work ok.

You could make it a little more comfortable/useful by inserting a "Z" in the middle, so the main part of the lever stays where it is, but it puts the end of the lever out an inch or two so you can get the knob on.

drive to the dealer and get them to fix it?

I think you kind of have to, as the full-service manual, where the torque specs are in, isn't available yet (at least, that's my understand).

you might consider alldatadiy.com, it's more reasonably priced for longer term access to info about one or two vehicles. your site seems to be more aimed at shops, where they need info on a wide variety of vehicles....

Are you sure you have a 4l80e? I didn't think the '08s still got them.

I'd use a 12V cigarette lighter do-hickey for charging a phone, as they are cheap, and most trucks have an always-on plug. And it'll likely be more efficient as well, as there less conversions (12V to about 5V vs 12VDC to 110VAC to 5VDC).

maybe either check the owners manual or phone the dealer and find out if it can easily be changed over to getting always on power. I recall that in the past, there was some power outlet (might have been just a 12V) that had an easy method for switching between key-on power and always-on power. Actually, there probably isn't a way to do it, unless there is a switch in the outlet to notice when something is plugged in, to turn on the inverter. If the inverter were always on, it would drain the battery. You probably will have to re-wire the inverter to get power with the key off, with a remote switch near the outlet for convenience to turn the inverter on and off, maybe with a timer so you don't kill your battery in the middle of nowhere leaving it on.

You have checked ALL the fuses? I've found that non-obvious/related fuses can cause the BCM to not work right (as in, not power various items it drives).

x2 Yeah, that kind of issue is always crazy to find.