davester

It's near the dash brace going to the transmission hump on the drivers side. You need to remove the cover/shield running along the middle of the dash (along the underside of the dash). It's fun, several blind bolts that you need sockets just the right length to do them... There needs to be two, so the two side can have different temperatures.

There are two blend door actuators (so you can have separate passenger/driver temps). Which did you replace?

You could try installing a used instrument panel from a junkyard to see if it's the i/p that's gone bad (shouldn't be that expensive) But an advanced code reader is probably what you'll need to figure it out, to avoid just throwing parts at it.

Maybe there is a problem with the NSBU (the plastic blob hanging off the driver's side of the 4l80e)? If you get access to a more advanced code reader, that can get codes from the transmission, bcm and i/p, might give you an idea of what the problem is...

A chainsaw and some buffing, and you've got a fine rolling chassis. Assuming there are wheels hidden by the snow.

1. go to a different shop. they should be able to tell if the compressor is working properly or not. 2. there should be 1 or 2 temp. doors that control the temp each side of the cab gets. See if all the vents get warm air or if it's just on one side, and if the temp will vary with the controls (with the engine hot). 3. find someone with a more advanced code reader, that can read codes from all the computers on your truck.

Well, your first number is different than the one in my post, but the hrs on gmt-800s are known to reset if the conditions are right (I have no idea what those conditions are).

When I bought my truck 3 years ago, it was at 189k km and 340 hours, so I win on average speed...

My understanding is that the only spot that is adjustable is the midpoint of the shift cable, where the two halves of it join together. Is that joint at either extreme (just barely connected or really close together)?

So if you can manually shift the lever on the transmission to 1, but the shift lever doesn't, then the problem would be before the transmission. Maybe disconnect the shift cable at the steering wheel, and see if the shift lever can go into 1 properly. If it does, then there's a problem with the shift cable (not adjusted correctly at the split point?), if it doesn't, then something is wrong with the shift lever/steering column.

Is it a mechanical problem, in that you physically can't move the shift lever to "1" or is it when you move the shift lever to 1, it's not in 1? And all the rest of the gears seem to work fine?

check all the fuses, both in the underhood fusebox and the one in the drivers end of the dash. I've had another, unrelated fuse blow (but offhand, I don't recall the specific one) because of a wiring problem, and that resulted in the backup lights not working.

Yeah, it looks like an electric and/or tcm issue. I wouldn't expect a problem with the ignition switch/wiring harness to throw these codes...

That sounds about right for Trans temp. Glad you found the problem.

Should have included this with the previous post, but you can either: a) go to the dealer with your vin, and they'll sell you the right lines b) ask for the build sheet from a dealer (or various online sources of it, should be able to do it for free) or you can decode the RPO codes on the sticker in your glove box. It's a long list of all the options for your truck, and it's useful to find the right parts for your truck, as there are options that make a difference as to what parts you need to buy (transmission lines, brakes are two I know of offhand). If you don't have to have the parts right away, buy them online from places like rockauto.com (and use their 5% discount code available all the time), generally significantly cheaper than local parts stores.. And for doing the transmission lines, don't forget to also buy replacement retaining clips, as they are single-use (you will need either 4 or 6 depending on if you have the HD tranny cooler and if you replace all the lines).

make sure you've got the right lines, as they are different between the 'regular' transmission cooler lines and the HD lines.

maybe something finally broke free so you could get good flow through the coolers. My truck, with the stock "HD" transmission cooler setup (through rad, then through aux cooler), I don't think I've seen it hit 90C (195F), even on a hot day driving around in traffic.

yeah, I've disconnected my batteries multiple times without causing a problem with RAP. maybe check that all your fuses are still good (both the ones in the engine compartment and in the end of the dash in the cab)?

Or see a dealer and ask. If you get a non-idiot at the parts dept., they should be able to give you the GM part number you need, and you can cross-match it to whatever brands the parts store has.

If it's non-HD, then it's more likely to use the 4-spline, like the 1500, but it's a bit of a mash-up between 1500 and 2500hd parts...

60 psi +- 5 psi. should be pretty steady, both at idle and at higher rpm. it can dip a little when you hit the gas, but should return to the same pressure when holding the throttle. If the pressure drops or it can't maintain 60 psi at higher rpm, time for a new fuel pump (and check higher rpm, mine could maintain 60 psi at idle, so I thought it was ok, but then later I noticed that pressure would drop to under 20 psi when the engine was running faster). you might also want to retrofit an in-line fuel filter (pre-'04 had an inline one along the frame rail on the driver's side). GM put a fairly crappy filter in the fuel pump, but crap can definitely get through that. cheaper/faster to replace the filter than having crap plug all the injectors.

nope. windows go up and down just turning the key to run position, no need to actually start the engine.

maybe at the rear junction box, inside left-hand frame rail at the very back? The FP2 harness might plug in there. or at least check around the frame where the aux fuel pump harness goes from the tank to the frame.

Of, yeah, depending on the size of your pitman arm puller, you may find it easier to use if you loosen the bolts holding the steering box, so you can get a bit more clearance for it. And doing this also helped with getting a straight shot with a socket/torque wrench for tightening the pitman arm nut.

When installing the idler arm/bracket, I couldn't find what the torque for the bolt between the two pieces should be [between the idler arm and idler arm bracket], so I just picked a bit more than the torque for the pitman arm [as they are both taper connections... The service manual for my truck treats it as a single unit.