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n4hmr

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  • Name
    Fred
  • Location
    Charlotte, NC
  • Drives
    2002 Chevy Silverado 3500 cab/chassis 12' Dump Bed

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  1. I recently posted the title 'Issues Replacing the Injectors in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 3500 Cab/Chassis Truck' in the 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500 forum, subforum Active Fuel management. 6.0L Vortec V8. Brief description. Found a hydro locked #4 cylinder and excess gas in #6. Worried about how the gas got into cyl #6. Two defective injectors or could the hydrolock condition damage a head gasket with gas leaking into the adjacent cylinder? No evidence of excess gas in cylinder #2. Would a compression check give a clue for this? Please review my other post for more info. Thanks
  2. I am a FedEx shipper. Anybody, ADI or Dealer, that claims it was shipped by FedEx certainly should be able to give you the Daggone Tracking Number! If they can't they are lying, period! Another tip ... If you know of a business reasonably close to where you live, and you have a good relationship with them, you might be able to get them to agree to have something shipped to their address. Title the shipping address as: Some Company C/O Your Name (or someone there who knows the package is coming) Streetname City, St zippp You should have the tracking number to trace it. The reason being is that shipping to a business address is cheaper than shipping to a home address - always.
  3. Hello - I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 3500 cab/chassis truck, VIN 1GBJC34U22F129260. This truck has a automatic tranny, 6.0 L Vortec V8, dual fuel tanks, and a 12' dump bed that was added when new. I apologize for the lengthy description here but all is relevant - issues I encountered over the last eight months. 02/01/20 SAT 1700 153,313 P/O Wlmt3642 Walmart 100.56 Try strt engine, btry totally dead. Chg for 3-4 hrs, show 14.3V when quit. 02/02/20 SUN 1000 153,313 Chk btry, show 7.6V. Ok, this one gotta go. Specs: Group 78N CCA 770, CA 950 Wlmrt - EverStart Maxx 78N Item# 001043392 CCA 800 CA 1000 5Yr wrty 06/28/21 MON 1100 153,405 EST 5922 Amity sold. Needed to mv Hudson trailer back into yard fr driveway. JFE/MEE (Granddaughter) test drv truck on Harris, drive ok: then goto 5922 to move Hudson. Shut mtr off to get key to rmv trlr lock. When try to start mtr agn, NOT START! Crank & crank, nogo! @#$%. 06/29/21 TUE 0930 153,409 Try diag start prob. Fuel gauge reads over 1/2 tank, think maybe lying to me. Try add gas first, frnt tank take no more than 2 gals. Listen for pump run when turn on ignition, hear pump run for 2 sec. Try start, it started but stumbled for good while then settle down. Drove truck around the block, run ok. Mv trlr into back yard, MEE pull trk into drvway. Shut mtr off to put trlr lock bk on; when try to start mtr, same Crap - no start. @#$% agn! 06/30/21 WED 0830 153,409 JFE try mv trk to 6715 Cedar (my home). Mtr start but did 8-10 cycles where if hold RPMs at 2,000, mtr start to die but when pump pedal it picks up for another cycle. Fin settle down, run ok. Get trk home & park in front. 08/18/21 WED 1600 153,410 *NOTE THE MILEAGE HERE* Start diag on truck fuel prob. Use pressure gauge, see 50-55 psi at first, then drop to 0 psi in 4-5 seconds. 08/19/21 THU 0900 153,410 Herko P/O 3698 54.47 Order fuel pump fr Herko - P/N 070GE. 08/24/21 TUE TTTT 153,410 JFE help Scott Clayton (Chevy tech and friend) install fuel pump. Did a test after inst'd by plugging off the pump output with the gauge b4 connecting the fuel line. SC watched the gauge, sed it shot up to abt 90 psi then drop back to 50-55. It held the pressure although the bleed down was more than the manual said it shud do - one minute test. Five minute test was below specs also. *********** This test was done with only a very short hose on the pump output connection. Is it normal for a pump to shoot to 90 psi then drop back to 50-55? Later tests showed that the psi stayed in the 50-55 range. Could this have damaged the pump? *********** *********** The following may have been the beginning of the hydrolock issue. 09/14/21 TUE 1000 153,410 Truck parked in front of house. Tried to start it for inspection, nogo. Chk fuel del'y, see abt 50+ psi but then quickly drop off to 0 psi. @#$%. Next thing mtr not turn over; check btry volts when crank, drop to 4-5V. @#$% agn. Chg btry for 5-6 hrs - 12.75V. Try crank, V still drop to abt 6v. Then starter motor begin to sound bad - hear bendix hit but no motor turn. Well, Shxx. What next? More! *********** 09/15/21 - 09/28/21 Much activity during this time, fighting both battery and starter motor problems. NOTE: On 09/26 that was the last time the motor was able to be spun (on the 3rd try) after installing the 1st replacement starter motor. On the 6th try the nylon gear in the starter motor stripped out. That one is gone. 09/30/21 THU 1500 153,410 JFE inst new 2465145 starter motor (2nd replacement starter motor). When try to start, volts drop so low the dash lights go out. Quit. 10/04/21 MON 1300 153,410 Take Wlmrt btry to NAPA-Indep for test, rep sez fail. Take it to O'Reiley's, rep sez good. Take Wlmrt btry to Wlmrt-Indian Trail. Lady test it - *FAIL*! Printout sez del 171 CCA out of 800! They swapout for new 78N btry. Inst new btry, motor still not spin over. Tlk to Scott re mtr seems to be seized up. S say pull all the plugs. When pull the #4 cyl plug out, get a flood of gas with it when removed! Hydrolocked motor. Late, quit. 10/05/21 TUE 1030 153,410 Rock Auto Parts P/O ROCK3705 336.67/256.67 ? Use bore scope to look for gas, nosee any - Dang odd. Chk to see if can hand crank engine now, works ok. Then had KHE (wife) watch the #4 cyl while I got under trk to jumper the start solenoid to the hot post (did not want to use the ignition due to the 2 second pump run when cut on. When did that, motor blew out a bunch of gas & got all over K and me! (Her Powder Puff Mechanics 101 did not prepare her for that - she somewhat pissed!) Not do that again. Pulled the fuel pump relay & had K work ign. K start 2X, see two clouds of vapor come out of #4 & #6 cyls. @$#%! K do it agn while J look at driver's side, nosee any vapor clouds. Cl Scott Clayton, yak sit. SC recommend repl all 8 injectors! S sugg Rockauto.com. Chk them find remans for $25-$29. SC sez they're ok. Sed get a new fuel filter also - abt $10. 10/06/21 WED tttt 153,410 JFE use long air wand to shoot air into cyls 4 & 6, no see any cloud come out of #4 but did get 2-3 blasts out of #6, then no more. 10/07/21 - 10/13/21 New injectors arrive. My Chevy tech now unavailable so start process of learning how to replace the fuel injectors. 10/14/21 - 10/19/21 Start process of replacing the fuel filter. Have a factory manual that gave wrong/incomplete info - only described a fuel filter mounted on the passenger side. Mostly worthless for a DRIVER SIDE mounted fuel filter. Check Chilton's, they just copy factory BS. Report the issue to Chilton. Did a post here, pick up new hints. Got help, chg the filter. 10/20/21 WED 1400 153,410 Got smart & used a 5 gal bucket to drain the oil. Got almost half a bucket out - 5 qts of oil & abt 5 qts of gas. @#$%. Inst new AC/Delco OF. 10/21/21 THU 1130 153,410 Put in 5 qts of oil. Reinst two splash guards. Reinst spark plugs. Start on fuel injector inst process. Get stuff out of the way but hung up on removing the injector connectors. Need more research. 10/22/21 - 10/24/21 Research removing injector connectors. Fin find one video that helped. It showed the keeper being completely removed before pressing button to release the connector but my version seemed to not want to be removed. Swing top outwards, pull up to clear the button then press button to remove the connector. Works. Have not removed the conns, etc yet pending more info being sought. Now for the beginning of questions! I am highly concerned about how that much gas got into the oil pan (est 5 qts). Obviously a lot probably ran down past the rings. 1A. But given that both cyls 4 & 6 had excess gas in them (4 flooded), are there TWO bad injectors? 1B. Is it possible that a hydrolock condition could damage the head gasket and allow gas to be forced from cyl 4 over to cyl 6? 1C. If the answer to 1B is 'Yes', then I reckon I should do a full cylinder compression check to see what is there, right?. 1D. What is best procedure to do full compression check - pull all plugs at once (less load on the starter motor) or one at a time? What about the cyl 4 & 6 issue - same answer? 1E. Regardless of doing a compression check, would it make sense to squirt 1-2 oz of motor oil into both cyl 4 & 6 to help restore some lubrication on the cyl walls?. Is 1-2 oz enough? I am going to stop this post here for the time being until I get past the above issues. More questions later ...
  4. Well, success! Got filter installed yesterday with some help. Don't have time now to list the steps but will do so later. Now on to the next project of replacing all 8 injectors.
  5. Boss Man, I wish you were right. But this isn't a 1500 - it is a 3500. There is only one narrow area that I can get any good prying applied on the inlet line. That only got the inlet line halfway out of the filter inlet chamber. There is NO 'wiggle room' on the outlet side period! looks like this will be a two man job with one or two crowbars.
  6. Hello - I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 3500 cab/chassis truck, VIN 1GBJC34U22F129260. This truck has dual fuel tanks, and a 12' dump bed that was added. We need to replace the fuel filter and do some other work on this truck. First chore is to deal with the fuel filter. The issue is that the factory manual that we have, and Chilton's, show the fuel filter being mounted on what we believe to be the passenger side of the chassis. Our filter is mounted on the DRIVER SIDE! Thus some of the instructions in the manual and Chilton's do not apply to our situation! We need specific instructions on how to properly proceed to remove the filter from this vehicle. The problem is that to remove the filter and the mounting bracket together, the incoming fuel line from the pump will have to be shifted backwards enough to remove that fuel line from the inlet of the filter. The filter and bracket then must be removed as one piece because there is insufficient room to extract the filter from the bracket while the bracket is mounted. In order to be able to free the bracket totally, the two square head bolts mounting the bracket to the side frame will have to be completely removed, thus allowing the bracket to be moved sideways and backwards to separate the filter from the outgoing fuel line. But the first step is to properly get the incoming fuel line moved backwards enough. The following pictures are attached: Filter Outlet1 Filter Inlet1 Inlet Fuel Line1 Inlet Fuel Line2 Inlet Fuel Line3 Inlet Fuel Line4 Inlet Fuel Line5 Front Fuel Pump1 Truck Bed1 Truck Bed2 Truck Bed3 Notes: 1. These pictures were taken in Macro mode on the camera due to the closeness required, and therefore appear to show much more physical room than is really there. 2. In picture Filter Inletl, it appears as if the bracket is mounted on a horizontal surface; it is not - it is mounted on the vertical side rail. Had to put the camera at that angle to get the shot. 3. The Inlet Fuel Line pictures start at the filter end and work backwards toward the fuel pump. 4. In picture Inlet Fuel Line3, the lines turn toward the outer rail and the bottom line can be manually pressed backwards with a hand. That allows the line to be extracted from the inlet side of the filter but only about 1/2 way out. Considerably more force would be required to move the line enough to remove it completely. 5. It may be possible to also apply some backwards force on the bottom line in Inlet Fuel Line5. Logic says it would be best to disconnect that line from the fuel pump outlet. So ... 1. What is the overall proper procedure to extract this fuel line from the filter? 2. Can the square head bolts be removed from the bracket frame without damaging the frame? NOTE: More pics attached in subsequent posts ...
  7. Also examine the bottom of BOTH brake/taillight bulbs. I have had cases where the solder pads on the bottom spread out and eventually make contact with each other. If this happens as soon as the headlights come on, that will also energize the taillights plus a brake light. The bad bulb then passes taillight voltage to that brake light circuit and the cruise system will think that you hit the brakes. If any question about a short use a ohm meter to measure across the two solder pads (with the bulbs out of the sockets of course). If a bulb is good you should read 8-12 ohms or so (the sum of the two filament's resistance) as you will be measuring the resistance across both filaments through the ground connection (shell of the bulb). If there is a short you should read 0 (zero) ohms and you have maybe found the problem.
  8. Finally figured out where it is! Plowed thru the GM DVD again & found more nuggets. It is attached (or was) to the motor side cover of the Electrical Center. It had become disloged from it's home and was hidden under a couple of the harnesses. But that's where it lives. Now the only thing I have to find out is whether or not I can safely ground pin 86 on that beast to force pick the relay. Pin 86 is the grounding signal from the PCM to start up the rear pump. Usually you can safely apply an external ground to points that are 'ground driven' because the feeding circuitry typically has a high impedance circuit that more or less ignores the externally applied ground. So, does anyone kow if manually applying a ground to that relay Pin 86 to force it to pick is an approved test procedure?
  9. Yo - This reply may be a bit over thee years late, but for anyone else seeing it maybe it'll help. Your first sentence says "I've bench tested this relay as suggested in other service ride control / compressor / auto ride suspension threads . 12v to 30, ground to 87, the jumper pins 85 to 86 and don't hear a click, so I believe it's bad. (It does nothing)." Well, either my GM DVD is screwed all to H... or your description of your (and their) actions is way off base. According to my wiring diagram, the relay pinouts are as follows: 85 - one side of the relay coil 86 - the other side of the relay coil 30 - normally open contact - intended for either +12vdc in (or ground - doesn't matter) 87 - common post for 30 (passthru for 30) If you applied +12vdc to 30 and a ground to 87, you're lucky that the relay didn't 'pick' - which it wouldn't have anyway. In order to pick the relay, you must apply +12 to one side of the coil and ground to the other side. That energizes the coil and the magnetism then pulls the armature over and closed the contacts 30 & 87. Had you done the latter, then when the relay did pick, you would have +12 directly shorted to ground - result being either a blown fuse or welded contacts in the relay - ot both. Ain't the way to do it!
  10. Shoulda posted this diagram in the 1st post - but I didn't. So here it is.
  11. Hello - I may be in the wrong forum here, but the questions may apply here also. I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 3500 Cab/Chassis truck (not an HD), VIN 1GBJC34U22F129260, 6.0L engine with dual tanks - Front/rear. I am trying to get the rear tank working. I have the wiring diagrams for this truck but cannot find the physical Secondary Pump relay. Looked under the hood - only saw 1 relay labeled F/PMP. Nada found on either end of the dash panel. Where is this relay located? Anybody know? Fred
  12. We're in Charlotte, NC. Not sure where you're at. If they use much road salt there, then that probably has something to do with the corrosion. Other than just dusty, my rear tank area was relatively clean. Interesting that you had the flat 4 connectors. Makes me wonder if the pumps haven't already been replaced at least once. I;m going to clsoe this post now as it has done it's job. See my other post - 2002 Silverado 3500 Carter Fuel Pump Repair. Still need help there.
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