davester

OK, the original motor went bad very quickly. There is literally ZERO reason to expect the next one to also die an early death. If thousands of these 6.2's were failing every couple of months, then it would be a reasonable request.

I would understand demanding an extended warranty if they rebuild the motor, but for a brand new one? Really?

Well, there's a difference between needing to replace the fuel pump, and needing to replace the fuel pump every couple of years. There are way too many people running these trucks and holding onto them until they die, that would be posting left right and center about having to replace their fuel pumps every couple of years. Except they aren't.

There are millions of these GMT800 trucks in service. Of course there's going to be hundreds of how to change the fuel pump videos. If the fuel pump system had some kind of inherent flaw, than there would be WAY more videos and complaints about having to change the fuel pumps over and over again. There aren't. It is much more likely that there is something specific to your specific truck, or how you drive, or fuel you put through it, that is somehow causing your pumps to fail every five years.

If there was some kind of "inherent design flaw", there would be WAY more posts about replacing fuel pumps. I replaced my fuel pumps (I have 2 tanks) 4 years ago, haven't had a problem with them since and I've put on 100k km since then. I think my main, important pump (the one in the front tank, pumping to the engine) is an Airtex, but my system is also a returnless style, so it's different from yours. I would say it's more likely that there is some specific problem with your truck, such as it generates too much vacuum in the tank, or an electrical problem, or the pump has to work to hard because the FPR is faulty, or maybe something else. And is this 3 pumps since 2000, or your 3rd pump in say, 5 years?

Thanks for posting you fix, and bonus points for the writeup. Those kind of electrical problems really suck to find...

How empty do you run the tank? Have you run out of gas? Fuel pumps will die very quickly if they run without fuel going through them...

Did you check the oil level with the dipstick? Maybe look around the engine and underneath the truck for any sign of a leak? You may want to install a catch can, as the oil may be going through the PCV system...

Well, maybe you should have stuck with that point, rather than also including your ridiculous comparison of price.

Nobody in their right mind buys oil for an oil change in 1L bottles, when the 5L bottles go on sale all the time, and for literally 1/2 the price of what 5 1L bottles of Amsoil would be...

to see what? stuff bouncing around in your bed? that's all you'll be able tosee, not stuff on the ground around or behind the truck...

Haynes manuals are excellent for starting a campfire. Nice thick paper, holds being crumpled well, stays where you put it and burns nicely. For diagnosing and fixing your truck, either get a subscription to the full service manual (FSM) at various web sites (alldatadiy.com is one) or get the paper version (helminc.com, amazon, ebay). The haynes manual is maybe 200 pages (being VERY generous), and a lot of it is just generic info that is the same in every book they publish. The full-service manual for my '04 Sierra is 5 volumes of 1000+ pages each (it does cover 1500/25003500 & all the gas and diesel engines in the pickups). The paper version is available from helm, so alldatadiy should also have it online, but I would double-check with them before paying for a subscription, as it takes a year or two before the FSM becomes available.

That just looks so weird. Your brake system isn't working right, so we are limiting you to only 62 mph. I guess they think you'll still probably live smashing into something at that speed?

Not sure how the sway bar would affect alignment, as it's connected to the LCA and only alters how it goes up and down...

Hopefully they will also be going after the manufacturing executives.

If the two sides aren't wearing evenly, that means the caliper and/or pads aren't sliding on their pins/guides properly...

it's hard to say that anymore, as new trucks try to get cute and sense if lights are out, so the truck could be doing something wonky because the trailer lights draw too much/little power from what the truck wants.

Depending on miles, you might also consider replacing the idler/tensioner as well, as they wear out.

The resistance is slightly wrong? Or not all the brakes are working?

When I installed my Pioneer AVH4000NEX in my truck, I used the RP3-GM11 wiring harness, which worked just fine and provided enough power (10A IIRC) for the radio without needing to run a separate relay/power wire from the battery. I did screw up and briefly shorted the power wire during testing when the connections weren't wrapped up, and burned a trace on the power circuit board, and after fixing that, it's been working fine for the past 4 years or so. The wiring harness provides both continuous power to retain radio settings, and the main power properly using RAP, and your harness should do the same, you shouldn't need to run any other power wires. It (at least from what I could tell) responds to the trucks computer commands about RAP, and turns a relay on/off to match for providing power to the radio.

So, sign up now and get the truck in a month... And remember, 0% financing = them shoving all the interest in the vehicle price or your tradein It sounds like the salesman is doing a good job of working you over with the numbers.

Why would you not drive (or maybe even just sign up online) to Costco, give them $55, to get your additional $3K off?

The O2 sensor and cat probably won't like the oil...

For my truck, the rod going to the interior lock/unlock manual lever was sticking a bit in the plastic guides, so when I hit the lock power button, it would briefly lock, then unlock right after that. I fixed it by greasing the guides and making sure the rod could go back and forth easily, and it's worked fine for me since then.

maybe test that power is on both sides of the fuse? If it's not that, and you want to figure it out/fix it yourself, spend the money to get a subscription to the full-service manual for your truck. It'll have the wiring diagram for your truck, and then start from the power source for the trailer plug, make sure it's got power, then go to the next connector for that wire and test that it's still got power, and repeat until you stop getting power. Then figure out why not. The FSM should also have a diagnostic procedure for why it's not working as well, but may require the use of a computer as part of the process.