TXGREEK

My lifted truck has over 36k well driven miles on it, I’ve towed, hauled, pulled and very often off-roading. I do 4-5K OCI’s, 15k front and rear differential fluid changes, 15k transfer case fluid change, change engine air filter every 15k miles, only run Pwemium fuel, fuel treatments every other tank and have complete confidence that this truck “WILL” take me to Hell and back, never been in the shop with any engine related issues and all I use is Amsoil products. I even pour 1/4 bottle of Amsoil SS in my wife’s new BMWX5 after each oil change, purrs like a kitten. Sent from Above

Totally false, you’re very misinformed! These trucks are designed for hauling, pulling and off-roading adding fuel economy thanks to the epa. I’ve seen these trucks easily run 150k - 300k and that with proper maintenance but if you or anyone else is going into purchasing and then running them into the ground well then that’s your doing. I for one take excellent care of everything I own and will never think of something as soon to be scrapped. This is the prime example as to why I’ll never buy used, this theory is an excuse as to not spend money on maintenance only later blaming the manufacturers. Never understood why anyone would buy a $50k+ vehicle and later only afford Walmart oil. It’s like buying a Scar17S or an LWRC REPR only to put on a $150 scope and run cheap steel ammunition. Sent from Above

Independent testing shows Amsoil Signature Series is 4X more protective than Mobil1’s most protective “Annual Protection” oil. Some stores are selling Mobil1 Annual Protection $3 dollars higher than Amsoil SS. Sent from Above

You did good brother, good job! Sent from Above

IMO, it all depends on your driving conditions. Heat kills oil, stress from towing, hauling, excessive idling and hills or mountains breaks down quickly. I run the SS series, change every 4-5K (mostly 4K) along with Amsoil filter and can honestly say my engine sounds quieter than engines running on full synthetic. It’s a piece of mind and have friends of mine that switched to Amsoil only later to thank me as they noticed the difference as well. Question: two identical vehicles for sale, both same model and mileage, one running on full synthetic and the other on Amsoil SS Series, which one would you trust to buy? Sent from Above

When you run a fleet of vehicles and your lively hood depends on them, you’ll be singing a different tune. People that run cheap oil are just cheap. Manufacturers recommend oil that will, by their standards, meet and not exceed recommended oci’s. Today’s motors are very high tech with the tightest tolerances ever recorded in automobile history, same high tech oil is required to keep these engines protected. All oils are not equal, they have different protective breakdowns. Everyone knows I run nothing but Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic and not that misleading “Full Synthetic” junk. I have a lifted and tuned 6.2 truck with larger tires, love to drive fast and have never ever had any engine breakdowns. All the vehicles that were used as delivery vehicles at my shop repair company ran on Amsoil and not once ever had any engine breakdowns with most of these trucks exceeding 150k-200k miles. Yes, Amsoil is a couple dollars higher than mythical full synthetics but will protect at least four times better that the highest rated full synthetic and my fleet were living proof of that. As a matter of fact, I bought trucks for my employees and allowed them to do their own oil changes as per our agreement, each and everyone of those had engine issues by the time they hit 60k miles (highway miles as sales team) but non of the fleet vehicles with much higher mileage and these were work horses too. Everyone can look for excuses all they want to not spend a couple extra dollars per quart for superior engine protection but in the end, you’ll never hear of an unhappy Amsoil user. Good luck and God Bless [emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631] Sent from Above

I’m patiently waiting to hear your results but we all know how they’ll be lol Sent from Above

AMSOIL!!!!!!!! [emoji119] [emoji322] [emoji3060] [emoji323] Sent from Above

Good lord, you’re talking many years back, my TType was the fastest production street legal back then, it was also a piece of junk always having turbo replaced hee hee. You’re also correct that lifting is expensive and especially doing it right but I’m 6’ and it doesn’t make me jump or drop lol but I have whacked my head numerous times getting in and out of my wife’s new X5 XDrive. The number one reason a lifted truck would have any parts wear is due to offroading which happens to stock as well. Mine is almost 3yrs old with (knock on wood) zero issues and non seen coming as I have mine inspected every 6 months. To be honest, i wish I did go a bit higher but it’s all good cause I’m thinking of getting taller tires next time [emoji1303] I don’t think you entered the discussion to bash anyone but it could seem this way to some especially with everything mentioned. I sometimes see things I don’t like at all but I get a smile on my face knowing someone is excited and happier with their new mods. I’m not one to judge and as my father used to say, you get more bees with honey then you do with vinegar..... Enjoy yours as well, take care and God Bless! Sent from Above

I’m lifted, OffRoad often while out hunting, washed lots of blood out the bed and unto car washes lol. I too run a 6.2, tuned and have had countless sports cars and to this day have never smoked a performance sports car, kept up with a few but never smoked any real sports cars. Though the 6.2 gives our trucks much more power than the Non-modified trucks, I’ve embarrassed quite a few stock trucks that have raced me but most often regret doing so as I didn’t buy my truck to race it or rag on it, it’s a tool/toy that serves a purpose for the most of us. Tires on lifted trucks are not at all cheap, especially quality name brands. I’ve gone from 33’s to 34’s and back to 33’s which added up to the purchase of a dependable used car, I think [emoji848] . All modifications cost money, hence the reason for my experience and that majority of truck owners ask about modifying their trucks but freak out when they find out the cost to do so which then look to say that lifting your truck is stupid in order to justify their inability to pay for the mods and these words are from the GM of a national truck accessory company. To each his own, stock, lowered or lifted, we’re all just truck owners in the end just personalizing our trucks. To this day I still have people ask if my truck is a pavement princess, little do they know.... Sent from Above

A gallon of water weighs 8.4 pounds, reduction of the fuel tank is part of the requirements to lessen the vehicles weight in return helping in adding something in mpg’s, mentally appeasing the mpg nerds and the EPA’s requirements. I personally will ONLY tow on the interstate, trying to find diesel while towing on the back roads adds lots of stress, I wouldn’t attempt that with a gasoline engine no matter the stated mpg’s. My 14 CrewCab LTZ 5.3 3.42 gave me appox 3.5-3.9 miles per gallon (sometimes less) while towing an 8k# TT, having to pull over twice between Houston and Dallas was the nail in the coffin for that truck. I didn’t like it at all, even had my family drive in another one of our vehicles, I started 3 hours before them and they got there much sooner than I did, never again lol! Sent from Above

Bilsteins will definitely stiffen the ride quality as I had 5100’s front and back when I was leveled but wife and kids refused to ride in it. My kids easily get car sick, not in this truck, not anymore since I lifted. I even bought new front 5100’s as they’re setup as spares in my stock coils with the CST 4.5” spacer. Bilsteins came standard on our Z71’s until they went with those crappy Rancho’s. Tires do play a very large roll as they’re the first line of contact. Softer tires help a lot but only if they’re not over filled. I keep mine at approximately 38-40 as this seems to be the happy spot. Heavier mud tires require much better shocks than the entry level Bilsteins. Dieselfan1 did it the right way, used adjustable coil overs and running high end Hybrid tires. I think we could all stand to learn from one another, from our own personal experiences and not guessing/assuming. The trucks that you see peoples heads moving around are lifted using cheap get me up there lifts and when you’re up there, you’re on your own. Only reason I didn’t go higher is to fit in my home garage and parking garages. My lifted LandCruiser had a tendency to burst parking garage lamps lol. I miss that truck but just like dating, you get your thrills and you move on. Sent from Above

My truck rode VERY rough with just a 2.25” level. Completely smoothened it out after the lift was done and especially with the coil overs and rear piggybacks installed and just 33.2” KO2 tires I take it from Texas to Florida to Arizona and Colorado often and loaded with family and a couple extra kids as they request it with ZERO bounce. Trucks lifted correctly will ride very smooth when compared to cheap get you up there lifts. Dieselfan1 has the perfect example of how to lift your truck correctly and wouldn’t recommend “assuming” unless someone has actual experience with high end lifts. There are cheap lifts that will get you up there and that’s it, then there are high end lifts that exemplify how lifting should be. Yes, someone could go to high but that’s when you see over $80k worth of custom made suspension work that does make it ride closer to stock. Anyway, there’s a few custom lift conversations elsewhere on the forums where you can get your information from, this one seems to be about someone’s warranty issues lol. Btw, I called my dealer and asked him about this warranty issue and he said that the dealership wouldn’t be able to void his warranty, GM would but would require someone from GM to come to the dealership in order to do that. I’d take it to another dealership and start from there which is something that happened with my 16 Duramax, loose steering couldn’t be remedied at one so I went to another and that’s all it took but didn’t have a dealer attempt to cancel my warranty on their assumptions, only GM can do that. Only the part affected by custom work would only be canceled and not the whole warranty. Sent from Above

A Raptor isn’t really a Truck, looks like one but doesn’t offer the towing or hauling attributes of a full size truck, only that of a dune buggy lol. Wonder if they make them with 6.2’s yet? Sent from Above

I’ve only got a 4.5”-5” CST lift, love it but do wish I went slightly higher. My neighbor traded in his Raptor, bought the new Trail Boss and wow, looks awesome! And yes, you’re correct, it’s the height a stock truck should be at. IMO, I LOVE the white ones with blacked out face (not being racist lol) look great but would swap tires for oversized KO2’s. Sent from Above