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TXGREEK

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Everything posted by TXGREEK

  1. Most have premature wear on ball joints and CV’s. It’s a quick band aid fix but not a permanent one. I’ve heard zero complaints on the 5” only that it’s a Rough Country brand lol Sent from above
  2. You’ll definitely get better angles out of theRC 5” knuckle lift. The Superlift will F’Up your CV’s and has raw steel parts that aren’t even powder coated. You’ll also get MUCH more smiles per mile with the 5” and in three years you may just want to change wheels and tires for a new look rather than buying another one and better someone knowing they’re buying a better lift than just cheaper one for looks with added issues. Save up, get the 5” you’ll be soooooo much happier you did. Sent from above
  3. Built and made are two different things. Something “Built” to go fast (featuring factory longevity) is much better than something just “Made” to go fast which is (requiring constant cost maintenance). Sent from above
  4. Btw, I forgot to mention resale value, buy a RC for what $19 K spend $10k and 5-6 yrs resale it for $10k max. Sent from above
  5. I’d lay off the caffeine a bit, never compared it to a “Raptor”. I said cost equivalent better off getting a Raptor based on cost of a new truck and all the performance additions. I did say buying a supercharged vehicle from a dealership is a better option being you’ll still have warranty from dealership. I don’t like RCSB’s, think they’re half a truck for half of everything a CC does and why would anyone have a RCSB (“install” is better said than calling “invest”) unless you’re racing it, making money back and if that’s what this discussion is about which BTW it’s not then great. Speed wise you’re absolutely correct, go in that straight line but much rather have a vehicle that goes fast in every situation not just in a straight line and I’m sure everyone would too Sent from above
  6. Personally, I’d stick with 410’s. Call the gear company and get the lowdown on their recommendation cause you don’t want to be looking for a gas station sooner than you need to either lol Sent from above
  7. It’s called Raptor, you know, the only vehicle out there that everyone seems to base everything off-road worthy and speed to and shocked to see GM owners trying to make their GM1500’s look like them too. Anyway, sure, they come with warranty but who really thinks that you’ll get everything taken care of? Most likely not but to each their own and buying anything off a dealership lot is 100% the dealerships problem and not an after purchase thought. I’ve got my 6.2 tuned with a warranty not case GM finds out and gets rid of my extended warranty too “but” much less to deal with than superchargers and cams etc etc etc and etc lol. Hey, to each their own, not something I’d recommend someone to just jump into it cause they’ve got a great Tax Refund, the chance of something “always” going wrong is going to need more money and if you can great but majority cannot. Just MHO, to each their own but it’s much more involved than a bolt on and a pc of paper. Sent from above
  8. Now that I think about it, my truck had a $62K sticker price, Raptor $68K which needed nothing. I’ve already put over $10k of extras which at least $4K more than a loaded out Raptor. Oh well, lesson learned lol Sent from above
  9. Marginally. Buying a truck is not which one is faster, taste, hauling, towing abilities. It’s a personal preference. If I wanted a fast truck I wouldn’t have bought my 2018 6.2 tuned, Truck would’ve been a Raptor which is much more than going in a straight line, better designed for every terrain and turns at high speeds. I love my 2018 truck, spent over $10K on upgrades (so far so good) but I didn’t buy it for speed, possibly something many do but my choice was ease of drive abilities and simplicity. Sent from above
  10. Well 1st) not everyone is interested in tearing up their new truck and voiding their warranty which is a no no on these trucks and all newer technology vehicles, 2nd) there’s a higher cost to all this than a standard setup like you’ve mentioned but if that’s what someone wants then go for the Raptor. I’d never do that to my truck especially with all the issues plaguing the transmissions cause then you’ll definitely be opening a new can of worms. Id definitely buy a truck with a supercharger already installed from either dealerships or factory (don’t know if they’ll do that anymore) retaining your trucks full warranty. Raptor would be my go to fast off roading truck which has a far superior ride quality and to the GM Suspension too. Sent from above
  11. My 1996 2-door Sport Z71 Tahoe with the Vortec 350 was a great solid motor which is more than I could’ve said for the rest of the truck lol. Sent from above
  12. Completely understand. I too worried about getting into the garage but went with it anyway and still have almost 5” from the shark fin antenna before hitting the garage and I’m running a 4.5”-5” lift with 34” tires. So don’t worry about having clearance issues. MHO, It’s best you really think about saving up a bit more just to get the 5” for reasons being it has excellent front geometry, comes with everything needed and if you don’t already know your suspension is the building block of your truck, go cheap now and you’ll actually freak out later with the amount of repairs caused by bad angles you get with a cheaper kit and all this just for the look. It doesn’t sound like it’s an emergency to get the cheaper one now, save up and get the 5” knuckle lift and you’ll be much happier and later thank me too. Good luck! Sent from above
  13. Personally, IMHO, I cannot stand RC “But” You’re better off doing the RC 5” knuckle lift, much more bang for the buck, comes with everything and actually has its own sorta groupie followers that are enjoying theirs. Only thing you’ll 100% need are better shocks versus the garbage that comes with any of the budget lifts, don’t buy anything cheaper than Bilsteins, Much better option. Sent from above
  14. Fully understood, what’s your cost for each? Sent from above
  15. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    Here’s the CST 2wd lift but it’s a spindle lift and not a bracket lift which will poke your wheels out about half inch tops unlike every other lift about twice that of CST. https://cstsuspension.com/352-lift-kit-2014-18-1500-2wd-truck.html You can actually get it much cheaper if you shop around Sent from above
  16. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    CST does have leveling coil overs but require new UCA’s to be installed too which is a better ride than spacer blocks and replaces your front struts and coils at the same time. This is the same setup I went with before I decided to just do the full lift. The same lift “will” work on your 2wd truck too but has parts you won’t need too which you could sell to someone that would give top dollar for exceptional quality, just a thought. Sent from above
  17. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    I could be mistaken but I believe they’ve been out for years just not as a package till recently Sent from above
  18. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above
  19. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above
  20. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    Bingo! When first started same BS was said to me, never had a level before until worried about getting into parking garages and it’s amazing the amount of bad information spewed out in these forums by either very cheap asses knowing damn well it’s going to rub but are either to stupid or just miserable people that think it’s ok and no big deal to have rubbing based on looks instead or then those that don’t even have the same size the OP requested about. I went from front and rear leveling blocks, new front and rear Bilstein 5100’s to then needing new +1 offset wheels which I sold stock wheels at the time the new wheels came out and donated the funds to a single mom with three kids at the tire store that needed new tires. I bought new wheels, tires and rode like CRAP! I was lucky to hear from people with actual experience not made up crap heard from he said she said etc etc, instead of buying front coil-overs I should just do the CST Lift which best fit my criteria with zero widening of the track width and ruining my stock turning radius and after consulting with my Off-Road shop that I frequently use for all my trucks and SUV’s I was told it’s the best out there. So I jumped on it and never looked back. I’d advise anyone looking to do a level to do a coil over level for better handling and much smoother ride but you’ll definitely need new UCA’s if doing 2.5 leveling coil overs. Good luck and God Bless! Sent from above
  21. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    No need to start feeling that insecure, wasn’t pointing the finger at you. Just made it clear that lots of people out there have no idea what they’re talking about especially getting involved in something they’ve got no idea what they’re talking about which misleads people into having more expenses. Sent from above
  22. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    You’d be surprised as to how many people actually put out misleading wrong information out there on leveling and tire size especially 15 1/2 - 18’s. In the past, I’ve called out a bunch of BS’ers claiming their tire larger sizes on these model years didn’t rub when leveled even some saying it didn’t rub cause their tires were already on before the level, lmao! And then find them down the road on another thread talking about their rubbing issues. People: Leveling WILL cause rubbing issues on years 15 1/2 - 18’s GM 1500’s running 20” wheels when adding anything bigger than stock size tires. Another thing, leveling will cause your truck to ride rougher than stock especially adding E rated tires which is common on larger tires like 285/60/20’s. You’ll also need to buy new offset wheels in order to get the rubbing to stop and buying new uca’s doesn’t guarantee to stop the rubbing which is why I jumped on the “much smoother than leveling” Badass CST 4.5” lift. When you consider the cost that goes into the leveling parts, wheels, shocks/struts and labor, it’s a no brainer! You should never “ever” go cheap on your suspension, it’s your vehicles foundation. Most trucks that are traded in are traded in due to bad riding trucks caused by people that want the look but don’t have a quality suspension, all lifts are not equal, you get what you pay for. If you’re on s budget? Save until you can afford to do it right cause then you’ll actually not only enjoy looking at your truck but you’ll love driving it too and not need a throw up bag and Advil for the ride along Sent from above
  23. Being that I’ve never really kept a vehicle long enough to have had any of these breakdowns, I’ve always had an extended warranty added just in case I did keep it. You’re correct about hit or miss. I’ve got friends with Fords and GM’s with many miles on them but very well maintained miles with Zero mechanical issues with either and they too have extended warranties just in case. My factory warranty is out on my 16 Yukon once it hit 36k but has an extended 100k warranty. Some may think a 5 year 200k extended warranty is a waste of money but I’d agree with you, $500-$600 per year is damn well worth having one considering what we all pay for some stupid worthless mods. Sent from above
  24. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    (Leveling Thread) It happens due to being leveled! Sent from above
  25. You left out my 1987 Buick TType Regal...Wow, that was the time cars were cars. Sent from above
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