davester

P0700 is just a generic error code meaning "the tcm has signaled the ecm that it's noticed a problem". You need a more advanced code reader to get codes from the TCM, indicating the actual problem...

Yeah, I get about 4 years or so per battery on my trucks up here in balmy central Alberta.

So the mount didn't come out, just the bolt. I think a better recommendation would be for check that they are torqued properly. this is a dealer screwup, and given that dealer admitted to you that it happened 5-6 times there, I would suggest going to another dealer for any further work on your truck... I know when I replaced the shocks with RS9000's on my truck, I torqued them down to spec, and haven't had a problem with them since (about 50k miles ago).

I would suggest first checking out your u-joints, and the center support bearing if you've got a 2-piece driveshaft

maybe check fuel pressure, both when turning the key on, and while cranking the engine. Should get up to right about 60 psi and stay there.

only support link I could see is https://www.gmt400.com/misc/contact and don't see anything in the site info forum about any problems

might be your isp? Or maybe the cloudflare server that you happen to get redirected to is hooped? I just went to gmt400.com and it came up with a list of forums, and i could drill down and view posts. The site seems to be working fine for me.

you should have got/be able to get a work order detailing what they did to your truck...

It could be all kinds of things, from -incompetent diagnosis -bad fuel injectors -bad fuel -bad fuel lines -bad fuel pump

Except nobody in their right mind buys it in 1 qt bottles for doing oil changes. You buy 5 qts for $30cdn (less in USD) for Mobil1. Amsoil only sells in their 1qt things, and it's more than double the cost.

50-65 psi doesn't sound good (too wide of a range), but I don't know specifically about your engine. For my port-injected 6.0L LQ4, it expects right around 60psi, +- 3, and the pressure only drops a bit when the engine is revved up, and quickly returns to full pressure. Before I replaced my fuel pumps, the fuel pressure would be 60 psi at idle, but when the engine revved up, the pressure would drop and stay low. The pcm would try to compensate by keeping the injectors open for longer, but having the proper fuel pressure makes the system work much better.

Well, it's because your 10-15A circular saw means it draws 100-150+A from your battery, and they don't last too long with that kind of draw (and then you need a boost to start the truck). If you need 110V for anything other than the most trivial task, I would suggest using a small portable gas generator to provide it. It'll be cheaper and more efficient than getting a setup installed in your truck, as to use 110V for any amount of time, you need to have the truck running, and with a high-idle so that the alternator can put out the power to support the 110V converter.

A saw? Like a circular saw for cutting wood? If so, that would totally overload the circuit. The owners manual will tell you what power that outlet will support, and it will be nowhere near what a saw will want...

Are you sure the TPMS modules in the trailer tires use the right frequency that the truck is tuned for? It's my understanding they can use a number of different frequencies, but GM only listens for 1 or 2. And no, I don't know the specific frequencies.

No.

It's based on power. Diesels generally can put more torque through the drivetrain, so they get bigger diffs. My 6.0L gas gets a 10.5" pumpkin, but if it were a 6.6L duramax or the 8.1L gas, it would get the 11.5" one.

gm doesn't have a higher amp one you can install?

I replaced almost all my lines with nylon-coated pre-bent steel lines from GM. Still look good after 4 years and about 50k miles. Only dumb thing about them is that GM didn't include the 2 lines going across the rear axle and they don't sell those lines separately anymore either...

depends on where you are. BBB, state attorney if in the US, small claims court,

It's maintenance month for my truck, changed oil, greased, fluid in both diffs, transmission fluid, rear brakes (both pads and parking brakes). Still have to do brake fluid... 278600km. Just over 5L comes out, and 6L goes in every 7500km or so (per DIC).

I doubt there's enough airflow to do that, as the oil is pretty heavy. My intake manifold seemed to be filled to just below the level of the intake ports, not just a little at the bottom of the manifold. I think it would only burn the oil that splashed into the intake ports or ran into them from the truck tilting. I think it would be unlikely that oil would go away if I put in a catch can, it would just go down to a level where no more would splash or run into the intake manifolds anymore.

Sorry, I don't know the design of your intake manifold. Mine is molded plastic, and I had to tilt it in a number of different ways to get oil of out the runners, as they aren't just straight tubes to each port. There was no chance of getting much of that oil out just via the opening where the throttle plate mounts to. If I do get/install a catch can, I'd also take off my intake manifold and drain/clean it as best I can again. My original comment was aimed more at your use of spraying in seafoam intake cleaner, as if your intake manifold is similar to mine, it would do virtually nothing to get any of that oil out.

Depending on the design of the intake manifold, there can be a fair amount of oil that has already collected in it. When I did the knock sensors/intake manifold gaskets for my 6.0L LQ4, a bunch of oil spilled out of the intake manifold when I took it off. It was basically filled up to the level of the intake ports with oil...

why just one payment? they should keep paying while they have your truck...

So, basically, you have to find out what the laws/rules are for where you live and drive.