davester

I would look at the wiring you did, and the wiring around it, that you may have moved, maybe you hooked up to the wrong wires, or worked some connector loose, or something along those lines.

If you are by yourself, I would suggest leaving one side bolted up, prop up the front and the other side with pieces of wood and some rags along the bottom edge so it doesn't scratch anything (any more than things already are), replace the parts on one side, leaving the bolts slightly loose, then repeat on the other side, then once both sides are replaced, start tightening things down and checking that the hood is aligned with the side panels and the latch up front. You may want to remove the grille as well, just in case there's an alignment problem, and it jams in the latch, so you have a chance to get at it to work it free (I can't say for sure if you will be able to, but with the grille in place you won't).

Most likely, the second latch didn't get set, so only the first latch was holding it, and vibration from driving released it.

It sounds like your dealer is intent on ripping you off? Even if the sensors cost $100 at the dealer, it's still a ripoff to install them for $260. After they pulled the 4 sensors out of the truck when they received it...

It probably helps a bit. Probably would help more to run with the whole tailgate down, or with a cover over the bed.

Depends on what you mean by easy. There's driving to the dealer and trading it for a truck with wireless charging easy. There's buying the console and all the parts inside for wireless charging easy. There's buying a wireless charger, and modifying your existing console to hold it easy.

Maybe look on the other side of the truck and see how the sensor is attached there?

For '04, the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 all should be from 55-62 psi. Yours should be the same. So, yours is low. Don't just check fuel pressure with the engine off. Also check with the engine running, and with it sped up. For example, when I bought my truck, eventually I figured out that while the fuel pump could get up to just over 55 psi at idle, once the engine went faster and needed more fuel, the fuel pressure would drop like a stone to between 10-15 psi and stay there. It's ok for the pressure to briefly drop as the engine speeds up, but it should quickly return to full pressure once the rpm becomes constant again.

time to drive it to the dealer.

You're unhappy about this? The transmission leaking doesn't seem to be a commonly reported issue, This sounds like perhaps they think something is worn (or perhaps GM does) in an unusual way, and are giving you a whole new one, GM may want the transmission back to tear it down and figure out why it failed that way, or perhaps they found something wrong that would take a long time to fix (say, very poor parts availability). Personally, other than if I would have to wait an extended period of time for the transmission, this is way better than having the local mechanic muck around with the internals of the transmission replacing just the odd part or two, as the transmission will be built by someone who does it all the time, not by someone just learning how the thing goes together. And you didn't have to go through this a bunch of times. I would have expected the dealer to try slapping parts on it a couple more times before doing a full replacement (depending on what they think is wrong).

You may be able to bolt the engine in, but the I believe the knock sensors are in different places, and they use different camshaft timing and reluctor wheels. And the transmissions are also different. The harnesses & computers also can't be swapped, short of gutting the truck and fitting all the bits from the other truck into it. Long story short, you want to find a similar engine to swap into your truck, if it needs it. And to make it easier on yourself, find the version of 6.0L engine and get a similar version one. For example, your '04 is likely an LQ4.

We had a brief crime spree here in Edmonton, of thieves being real a-holes and drilling holes in the gas tank to steal fuel last fall/early winter... Couldn't have been the smartest guys, as it's not unusual for battery powered drills to have some sparking internally as they operate, and with them getting a regular bath in gasoline...

That fuel pressure is a bit low, as it should be about 60 psi. I know on my truck with the returnless fuel system, it's supposed to hold pressure for some time (as in, stay close to 60 psi for more than a couple minutes after turning the key off). I don't know how your system should behave, as yours has a return fuel system, with the fuel pressure regulator operated by vacuum. Given that with the engine off you can't get over 50 psi, I would suggest replacing the fuel pump to get it higher (as that seems to be the max pressure your current FP can put out). That said, your engine should still run reasonably well, since it looks like it can maintain that 50 psi, so the ecm can readily compensate for the slightly lower pressure by keeping the injectors open a bit longer (happens automatically in closed loop mode) by adjusting fuel trims.

I would just go with what GM recommends unless you use the truck in a more commercial way (like driving it all day, most days).

Coolant doesn't have the contaminants or the temps that oil gets, so it has a much longer lifespan than oil.

you may be able to find a pdf for the wiring diagram for your truck on gmupfitter.com, or, failing that, a subscription to the full service manual at a site like alldatadiy.com. It'll also have the diagnostic procedures to figure out where the problem is. I highly recommend it, particularly if you work on the truck yourself.

Did you even bother reading the posts in this thread? They CLEARLY give you the answer.

what can anyone say? it could be all kinds of things. maybe pull off the cover for the torque converter (there's one if it's a 4l80e, don't know about the 4l60e), and shine a flashlight in there to see if the flexplate looks broken.

Have you done it on a vehicle newer than 20 years old? Braking systems have only changed a bunch since then, particularly with abs systems. For example, with my '04 Sierra, the proportioning valve is integrated into the abs controller (2 lines in from the master cylinder, 3 lines out [2 to front, one to rear]). I suppose I could just dremel out a random passage and hope for the best... How about posting up a build thread with pics about how you changed the proportioning valve on your '16 Silverado? Just for giggles, include how you figured out the starting and ending braking proportions.

It is covered under the trucks warranty if your truck is still under the warranty period/mileage. It doesn't appear to even remotely come close to qualifying for a recall, neither for frequency nor safety.

Sure it is. If you are driving a vehicle in NC, with PA plates and those plates are expired, you are driving an unregistered vehicle in NC. Otherwise, everyone in NC could just register their vehicle once in PA, and drive around in NC without having to register their vehicles.

Sorry, no idea. I know for the previous generation truck (GMT800's), it's -remove the transfer case (the case to transmission bolts SUCK, particularly the one at the very top) -remove the VSS sensor -unclip a retaining clip for the rear bearing -remove all the bolts around the edge, -then the housing splits (takes some careful prying to get rear half off the alignment pins) -clean off all the old sealant between the case halves -put free sealant (anaerobic flange sealant) around the inside edge of one half (enough, but not too much, as the excess that squeezes out on the inside winds up trying to plug the inlet screen to the oil pump) -put the case halves together, on the alignment pins and torque them down (I do it in 2 passes, first time snug, then second time torqued down to the right value, in a criss-cross pattern) -put the retaining clip on the rear bearing -reinstall the VSS sensor -install tc into vehicle and fill Removal/installation, you really want a second person to help, even with something like a transmission jack to lift it, as it doesn't have a nice flat lifting surface and it has to be rotated in 2 directions to get past the crossmember just behind the TC. Yours is different, in that it has those two visible machined sections where something bolts onto, and perhaps there's more stuff to bolt on to the inside. As well, there are likely bushings, seals and bearings you will have to install in that cover before it can be installed, that you will also have to buy, as typically you will fatally damage them trying to get them out of the old case half. You might find youtube video's on how to do this job, and maybe study online parts diagrams for the transfer case, as you've identified the specific transfer case you have (hopefully!). Most like, info about your TC is less commonly available than it is for mine, as the GMT800 TC's had the pump-rub problem, so it was pretty commonplace to remove them, do a pump rub fix that involved splitting the TC, and then reinstall them. Later trucks didn't have that problem, so people only dealt with the TC when they failed. Finally, going forward, find out what torque value to use for the drain and fill plugs, so the new case doesn't crack again...

First, are you sure that's what it is. Broken bolts on the exhaust manifold can cause a ticking noise. I would suggest using a mechanics stethoscope to narrow down exactly where the problem is (and they are pretty cheap). Be careful with the tip around spinning bits... Second, if you do decide to rebuild, I would suggest pulling a used one from a junkyard (which should be relatively cheap), and rebuild that one, then when it's done, swap it into your truck. This way, you get minimal downtime (short of your engine outright failing, which would be unusual), and you can sell the "bad" engine at the end so you shouldn't be out any money (or even get a little).

Oh, I was looking at the truck at the bottom of your post... Forget the thing about pump rub and DexIII, and the torque for the drain plug may be different for your transfer case.

First, are you absolutely sure the drain plug is leaking, not that fluid is coming from further up. Second, with the drain plug out, after all the fluid is out, really clean the area and check if the housing is cracked, say, from someone overtightening the drain plug. Third, check the case to see if it has a hole where the "gm pump rub" problem rubs a hole in the case. Fourth, I would suggest not putting permatex on it. Just get a torque wrench and use it to torque it down to 15 ft/lbs (that's from my '04 sierra full-service manual). Fifth, the proper fluid for it is DexIII. Find some that says it is DexII. DexVI was known to cause leaks when put in older vehicles (particularly, made prior to when DexVI became a specification), as the seals weren't designed for it. Even in '06, the transmission was specced to get DexVI, but the transfer case still was supposed to be filled with DexIII.