davester

Awesome, another keyboard warrior. How exactly do you know what medical equipment his city needs? And you seem to be operating under the delusion that all the hospitals in NY are just sitting empty, waiting for COVID-19 patients. They aren't. They are already mostly filled with people who are having heart attacks, car crashes, the flu, and everything else under the sun. COVID-19 is happening IN ADDITION to what already normally would happen now. He has both the numbers of how many ventilators are available in the city, and the numbers for how COVID-19 patients are increasing and how many of them are going to need a one. And he needs to ask for them now, so he at least has some of them when those patients arrive at the hospital over the next couple days, weeks and months.

Yes, H5N1 will be the next virus 'round the world...course, it's been around since '97. From those quacks at the cdc: https://www.cdc.gov/flu/avianflu/h5n1-virus.htm "Rare human-to-human spread with this virus has occurred, but it has not been sustained and no community spread of this virus has ever been identified."

...just a note, but if you read the post right before yours, Fred posted that he did fix the problem (which was the common fix for this issue, the fuse for the circuit had blown).

go to a different dealer? for them to tell you to not bring it in while they research the problem is just crazy.

You generally would get fewer rebates to get 0%. They basically roll the interest into the cost of the vehicle. It's a shell game.

That entirely depends on you, if you get "screwed". But, most likely you won't get as much money for your truck as you would have a month or two ago.

That's good. If you find the actuator moves in/out, then somethings wrong inside the diff, if it doesn't, then the actuator has failed, or there's an electrical problem (from the sensor in the transfer case to the wiring harness, fuse, ground point).

What did they do that you are claiming is a "dishonest sales tactic"? It sounds like your truck is out of warranty, you took it into a dealership and they gave you a number for how much it would cost to fix. And it's certainly not unusual for a dealership or even other stores to ask for upfront payment for a very expensive part that isn't commonly replaced.

He's modern-day racist. When he steps up to the podium in front of camera's, it's "corona virus". When he's a keyboard warrior, it becomes "Chinese virus"...

thanks for coming back and posting what the fix was.

"going out swinging" is what this is about. So that the people that actually do get seriously ill can get a chance to do this. It's so they can go to the hospital, and have a bed, and have a ventilator and heart monitor, and medicine, and doctors and nurses to treat them.

Don't recall seeing any other posts like yours.

...never buy a brand where the brand name is "avoid this".

That's funny, given there are already at least 80 cases in Mexico, with very limited testing (so, likely, a lot more undiagnosed). But they appear to be coming around to the idea that it's going to be a problem for them...

Yup, cuz if there is anything we've learned over the last 3 years, is that Trump follows along with mainstream media and does what they want. Or he just realized a large part of his base is old people.

And yet, just today Trump is saying this problem can last until July or August, and that gatherings should be limited to under 10 people. I guess he's in on the plot to destroy himself too...

Yup, H1-N1 was also fabricated to hurt Trump.

Yup, the whole world has fabricated this event, just to hurt Trump.

what do they mean by "torque converter failure"? If it's guts have started coming apart, then likely bits of it are throughout the transmission as well...

Did you shift into "L" before trying the buttons?

phone/contact crutchfield.com, they should know about a harness for inserting an amp into your audio system.

If could be pressing on the wiring harness to the throttle pedal, and moving it caused the harness to work again?

Note, if you just bought the truck, you can't really trust the mileage displayed either, as it's also only stored in the IP, and it's trivial to swap the IP. I'm don't know if the IP stores a copy of the VIN so it's possible to check with something like a tech ii, if not, you can only tell if the IP isn't programmed right (for example, if you have 4wd, and it's working right, but the 4wd light on the IP doesn't come on, stuff like that).

I don't think so, as I believe it's only stored in the IP.

Yes, wires can get corroded underneath the insulation.