davester

park is what you want, so the vehicle doesn't move while you are doing the test. The tests are checking what's connected to rear of the transmission. If it rotates, it's not connected, if it doesn't, it is connected.

what do you mean by "after diagnostic"? There were some codes?

perhaps indicate what specific vehicle you have, including engine, transmission, and if it's 4wd

...except of course, for the frame of those Tundras... How many of them has yota recalled?

look on http://www.gmupfitter.com/ if you can't find it there, I would suggest springing for access to the full-service manual at a site like alldatadiy.com ,which will include the wiring diagrams for your truck.

Elaborate on what? They are different trucks. The cab is shaped different, so at least none of the dash will go in without you fabbing up the GMT800 mounts for everything. Seats are probably the easiest thing to get the mounts fabbed. Doors, I have no idea how much work you need to do. The engine probably won't be hard to fab the mounts for, but expect everything else to be a hassle, like making space for the ecm and fuse box, radiators going to be different, I don't know about spacing for it (from the engine to the rad). The GMT800 is an all-new truck from the GMT400. Expect EVERYTHING to be different.

Basically, the answer is no, it doesn't just bolt up.

Preview on MacOSX views it fine for me. Maybe google for "windows heic file viewer" to get an app or how to view them on Windows (or insert linux/android as necessary)..

I would suggest harassing GM about it,if it's not heating up the cab well. Otherwise, it's NBD.

Maybe read more of it? It has 3 pages on just the trailer electrical connections, pictures of the various plugs, when to plug and unplug them. It even explains why you don't have a 4-way plug. It even has a table of contents and an index to make finding specific things easier.

"you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve internal components" Yup, that definitely sounds like something people with no knowledge of the design of braking systems, or the tradeoffs involved, or a knowledge of the capabilities and limits of the braking components of the truck, should do.

I think you meant "....but it won't cure the cause".

Is the water pump driven off the crankshaft or is it a separate electric setup? The coolant even being at 80C should be enough to heat up the cab, so perhaps it just doesn't circulate enough coolant through the in-cab heater core. If it's an electric setup, then GM could perhaps reprogram it to pump more coolant when it's cold outside... Or if it's engine-driven, then a high-idle setup maybe? With how cold it's been the last couple of weeks, it would suck to have a poor heater setup.

What's wrong with the temp? My truck gets up to 90C in the winter and stays there when driving around, and I get buckets of heat in the cab (and I'm also in Edmonton). It basically just hangs around the temp the thermostat opens at. I would say it's fine.

They are in a relatively new image format. You may need to download the images to your computer or phone and use a different application to view them if your browser can't display them.

Did you even read through the owners manual. It took me less than 5 minutes to find it in the owners manual. Hint: It's in the Driving and Operating/Trailer Towing section (at least in the 2020 manual, probably the same in the 2019 one). It might seem like you know all the stuff GM would put in their owners manual, but you probably don't. Try reading the whole thing.

It's more than you need to do. Shift into 4wd, maybe move the truck slightly so the gears get into place. Lift up one front wheel. If you can't spin the wheel, you are in 4wd. If you can spin the wheel, something isn't working right. Reach under the truck and try spinning the front driveshaft with your hand. If you can spin it, there's a problem in the transfer case, Encoder may have failed if it's electric shift, chain broken are common things, but it could be other stuff. If front driveshaft doesn't spin, then the problem is in the front diff. Unscrew the actuator in the front diff (put the vehicle up on jackstands for this). With the actuator removed, plug it back into the wiring harness, and see if it goes in/out as someone shifts in/out of 4wd. If the actuator does go in/out,then something is broken inside the front diff, likely the passenger side stub axle or the locking ring (this is what the actuator moves). If the actuator doesn't go in/out, then it could be the actuator, or a wiring/connector problem, or the sensor on the transfer case that isn't working. Diagnose, then replace/fix what's broken instead of just throwing parts at the truck.

Even if not zero, I'd look over the wiring and connections, starting at the O2 sensor and working forward. The engine rotating slightly from the extra torque when hitting the go pedal might cause the relevant wire to touch metal when it normally doesn't...

Yes, you can swap it in. You probably will also either need a new torque converter or swap the torque converter as well, as I recommend you not use the one from the blown transmission (as you don't know how well it works or what crap may be in it). Note, this is specifically about the 4l80e. The 4l60e is supposed to be much more specific, and has much more limited interchange options.

Don't google for problems other people have. And every problem you find isn't necessarily one that will even happen to another truck.

Yeah, 5 years ago, I bought a 10 year old truck for $5.5k. Spent about another $5k in parts and a parts truck (and a bunch of my time) getting it working and looking good, and another couple grand in wear parts (ball joints, brakes, stuff like that). Buying a similar truck, but new, is maybe $80k (3500 cab&chassis w flatbed). Those monthly payments are WAY more than the cost of fixing whatever goes wrong with my truck. I plan on running it into the ground...

It's likely to get the transmission up to it's operating temperature faster.

Nobody is required to report to carfax. Carfax needs to get either public records from the dmv or needs to buy your private information from dealers or service stations (as it is your private information they are buying).

If they cut into the trailer brake wire to provide a brake signal to the cap, it certain could cause that error code. But that would be a super-common problem for whomever installed the cap, unless this was just a one-off job for them.

First, I wouldn't count on a visual check of the circuit indicating it is ok. A lightning strike could easily fry chips internally and may or may not show visible damage. Second, I would suggest using a more advanced code reader, such as a knock-off techii or autogenuity w gm enhancement, and use it to see if you can read codes from all the computers, and then start working through things one by one to get stuff working (for example, commanding fuel pump to run and verifying that it does, etc...). And you might wish to get something like an Autel PowerScan PS100 to help you. It works great for testing if a given point has power or ground, and can even tell you if it's pulsed (slow pulses at least, don't know how well this works for injector pulses), and can provide power or ground to test a circuit as well. I find it very useful for doing electrical testing. But, it wouldn't surprise me if you wind up having to replace most of the computers, and also track down wiring problems as well.