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Lsxtrucker started following White Smoke, Excessive Moisture, Choppy exhaust flow., Strange electric motor sound with ignition on and truck on, Transmission shop servicing the 4L60e and and 3 others
I'm hearing a strange sound, sounds like an electric motor running very slowly its very noticeable and hear my glove box. It's a low speed grinding/motor noise ( I could describe it as a electric motor that is low on batteries sound, to further describe it sounds like a kids motorized toy low on batteries that moves but your holding it in place) and every fifteen to thirty seconds it makes the exact same low to high pitch sounds exactly as a creaking door opening then back to the low frequency motor sound. Same sound if vents are in upper or lower position and this is with the a/c completely off. Bizarre I know, but it's constant as long as the ignition is on or truck is running. I pulled a/c fuse and relay to see if it would go away but it's still there. I've researched this and some old articles point to the blend door actuator but wouldn't the blend door not operate with the a/c fuse/relay pulled? Trying to figure out what it might be so I can fix it.
I replaced the fuel filter last week with a Delco filter and I have to order a reman Delco rack and pinion (found a Delco reman unit for $280 roughly with a pretty big core charge) it comes with inner tie rod end..was only about $100 more than the Cardone aftermarket part that I hear not too good of things about. That's goibg to be next month so I'll take care of power steering fluid when that's in. Good advice. Will do. Anything else you recommend to take care of/replace front-end wise when they are in there swapping the steering rack out. Thanks a bunch. Yes it's 2WD
Yeah I was thinking after all these miles a filter change would be helpful. So here goes...my local tranny shop wants $175 to do a service of filter and gasket including 6qts of Dexron I actually just made a post about it. I'm going to probably move forward with that...that way the filter is changed and then on my next service I'll do the forward fluid exchange method myself(without machine). That way I can take some of the extra coin and put it towards a 4590 cooler and a trans temp gauge. Those I'll install myself. I'm staying in a condo complex with deed restrictions and they really don't like me working with fluids around here. No oil changes, etc. That way when she's back from the tranny shop I'll mount a gauge and be able to keep an eye on the temps until my next service which I'll skip the filter and do the full exchange a little earlier than recommend. Sound good?
So I decided to call a local transmission shop that does a lot of good work in the area for a price on transmission filter/gasket change and service (including approx. 6 qts Dexron VI) They quoted me $175 out the door. Sounds like a fair price. What do you think? Is this about right pricewise?
Does this method overlook the trans filter change, or is a filter change not needed?
My father is guilty of the same thing. Putting 20w50 in anything with over 100k. Him and I had a argument about it. He's a tech, a good one but old school. Gen 1 old school. If she's running quiet, like a previous poster asked maybe just do your next change a little sooner and stick with synthetic and factory recommended viscosity. If it bothers you swap it out. Mine has a little bit less miles (160k) but I will still be running 5w/30 synthetic at those miles too. I've read varied opinions on the effectiveness of high-mileage formulations, other guys swear by it. Personal preference really. Using a trusted brand and the right viscosity should be at the forefront. Needless to say it's really hot here I'm in South Florida. Not sure if you're aware but Chevrolet has a special going right now for $49.95 for a 6 quart Dexos 1 Full-Synthetic oil change with Delco filter and tire rotation. Goes till near the end of April this year it's nationwide. If your set on getting that oil swapped out and don't want to change it yourself or are unable for some reason this might be a good option. Not a bad deal.
Thanks sefiroxx I feel a lot better knowing it's normal. Appreciate ya
I'm just planning for the future I'm restoring my 2003 Silverado. I'm selling (attempting to sell) my 3rd gen Camaro to further fund my quest. There isn't anything particularly wrong with my engine...I was just wondering the cost of doing what I mentioned and you did a great job of clearing things up for me. I've got so many things on the list I want to do/have to do to the Silverado, none of which alter it from stock offering very much. I just want to bring her back to her former glory. I just bought my truck a few months ago and although its a really nice truck the previous owner clearly didn't see the potential and probably used her for mainly work. Nothing wrong with that, but the PO most definitely didn't do proper maintenance and that's creating a lot of work for me. That's almost a good thing because I'm learning more and more about these trucks everyday both from these forums and actual hands-on repairs. So far I've done spark plugs, wires, oil change, headlights, LED bulbs, air filter (OEM), vent valve solenoid, hood lift hinges, driver's seat foam replacement. Not much I know but I'm just getting started. My next items on the list are transmission service (not flush), rear differential fluid change, shocks and steering rack and new front bumper supports, and valance, air raid intake tube into stock air box, injectors, 02 sensors, exhaust. It's really been a lot of fun and every project is a definite learning experience for me. Thanks for replying!
I'm starting to do some research on replacement engines for my Silverado, kind of planning for the future of sorts. Ive browsed the web and found that Chevrolet wants nearly $4k for a long block 5.3 about the same for the 6.0 I believe I was wondering what as a ballpark what it might cost to rebuild my 4.8L with quality components vs buying a non-DOD stock 6.0 new, or sourcing a 6.0 and rebuilding it to stock specs Naturally aspirated 4.8/5.3 build starting with my 160k mile LR4 New seals, pistons, rings, lifters, pushrods, etc or a mix to high quality rotating assembly possibly Summit of Eagle? 223/226 .600/.600 111 LSA Texas Speed Performance truck camshaft package (maybe something a bit tamer) with beehive valve springs for Cathedral Port Heads ARP hardware, New timing set Or a 6.0 with stock all new internals,or new GM crate 6.0 (if they are even still available) Any idea of a price difference on these. I'm rather new to this and running into a lot of conflicting information. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile and more cost effective to rebuild my engine vs buying a rebuilt unit from GM. folks say it's wise to just get a 6.0 and rebuild that but I'm unsure of the cost on doing that as well. . I'm wondering what a reputable shop should charge to do a build similar to what I described above.Rebuilding my 2003 4.8 with a hot cam and upgraded internals and all new wearable components. or rebuilding a 6.0 to exact stock specs. Parts plus labor. I am open to suggestions and omissions Thanks
Thanks will do
Weather here in Florida is in the 70s and 80s range. Exhaust smells like it's running rich, not carburetor rich but it does also have a sweetish scent which would normally point to a coolant leak. Smoke is white, quite noticeable during 15 minutes or so of running and very noticeable at idle. Happens every start regardless of weather/humidity. I understand a certain amount of moisture is normal but my truck is creating a nice sized puddle at the rear tail pipe and another beneath the stock muffler. It sprays my neighbor's vehicle when I rev it up. I notice that while at idle the exhaust doesn't come out in a smooth steady stream you can visually see and feel a choppiness to the exhaust flow almost as if I had a mild aftermarket cam, engine is all stock. Tachometer needle remains steady at idle, no fluctuations. No codes pointing to my catalytic converters. Only code was P0455 which was solved yesterday with a new vent valve solenoid. Truck runs very strong, excellent power. Mileage is 160k. There is no oil floating in my coolant, no coolant leaks, or coolant /oil consumption. This is what really has me stumped. If it was a head gasket I figure my coolant levels would be dropping or I'd be leaking it somewhere but it stays right on full, zero visible leaks or consumption. Your help is always appreciated, hope you're all having a nice weekend!
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