Lsxtrucker

I have a 03 Silverado that needs tires. All but one are worn out. One is practically new, and I wanted to put it in the spare position. But the spare rim is just 6.5" Is there going to be issues getting a tire that wide on that rim, or safety/clearance issues under the truck?

grommets are available for nearly any opening

Not a lot of work to do today...waiting on parts to come in but I did install a replacement ground strap from hood to firewall ?

Thanks bud I'm slowly learning the same. I actually saw a few threads that someone shot down and the OP asked for it to be removed. You're right. Maybe someone will have that same question or issue down the line. Good looking out.

I was just working on her and jumped in to take her for a test run after. Anyways I admit I probably didn't close the hood fully. Never did that before, stupid I know. That's why I need to slow down and not rush things. I take my time wrenching, and pay extreme attention to detail on my work only to jump in excitedly anticipating it being fixed. Believe me I don't need to be flamed for it. Being stuck in the side of the road without tools and with the hood literally stuck open is enough of an embarrassment for a lifetime. Must've been a funny sight (aside from the danger I caused myself and other drivers). Surely wasn't funny to me. I'm assuming more damage occurred from me trying to close the hood than the actual incident. I just figured the parts to bring the hood back to (nearly) what it belongs would cost a lot more than it did. And as much as I pay for insurance (insert no wonder) it would be a comprehensive claim. But that was right after it happened and I was still very shook up and it looked really bad...Luckily no one was hurt and the windshield didn't bust in. The springs are what saved me from that. Well it's over now and a hard lesson is learned. I'm not going to beat myself up about it anymore I'm just going to fix her and move on.

Yep. Anyways I bought the RH spring hinge, LH spring hinge, and the right and left hood hinge supports that mount to the hood. I just clicked on purchase and it totalled $84 not too bad! Now the fun part will be installing these parts without a helper. I'm guessing the easiest way to do this is going to be to remove the entire hood instead of trying to do rebalancing act doing one support at a time. Not sure though. How would you go about this? Just to clarify I'm not really concerned with installing the hood spring hinges, more so the plate that they mount to via 3 boots each on the topside of the hood. Any tips/pointers are always appreciated

Without replacing the valance of course it's 22 per side for the spring hinges and about the same for the topside hinges each side that's not bad at all under $100

I went off the road safely but ended up in the grass and my front valance got pulled backward when I backed her out. What a mess. My ded is 500 the hood springs aren't much $ and I figured I better replace the actual hood hinges that attach on the top of hood too while I'm under there, so she closes as straight as possible and not worry about making any claim. It's about $88 using real Delco replacement parts for everything

So I'm driving down the highway and the hood literally flies open and slams back bending the hinges and denting the hood causing it to not close without me removing the hinges and still it now closed crooked as hell. Truck looks bad because of it. I do have full coverage comp and collision but I'm not sure what to do in this situation being that I heard it will raise my rates quite a bit of I make a claim. What would you do in this situation? I was thinking I could just replace the hinges and I'd love with the dented hood but the flat part (that is part of the quarter panel is bent back causing it to be all out of whack. Please help any advice is desperately appreciated. Thanks

Mine was acting funny somewhere around that rpm range as well. I'm convinced the problem isn't solved. I'm looking at my cats too. That's why I ordered a infrared temp gun from Amazon for around $10 to test my pre/post cat temps at operating temperature. It was cheaper than getting the vac Gauge and fabricating it to attach to the 02 port because I don't have an old 02 sensor to cut and I was too cheap to buy an backpressure tester ($40) lol.. If this solves the issue I'll let you know, heck I'll update the thread anyways. Good luck on your quest too man. Regardless of the headaches I love these trucks. But honestly that new GM crate engine 6.0/450HP 24x for $5k and change is looking sweeter everyday. If only I could get my 3rd gen Camaro sold and get it. Talk with ya soon brother.

No mine didn't do it all the time. It did it when it felt like doing it. That's what stumped me. I just hope it won't come back. If you haven't changed the plugs and wires lately I'd probably try that first. Plus it wouldn't hurt to at least check out the connections and make sure they're secure. I did the plugs and wires before I looked at the coils. Anyways have you any loss of power? Maybe you collapsed/bad catalytic converters? I'm testing mine tomorrow.

Faulty spark plugs wire

I ran into a small issue as the Flowmaster Original 40 Series isn't available in a 3.00"center in/3.00"offset out like the Super 44 is. After comparing the sound of the two cans I pulled the trigger on the 40 Series anyways. I'm sure that since there will be over a foot of extra working space the offset on the inlet side won't create any issue. I found a nice little mom&pop exhaust shop down the road who will remove the factory can and replace it with the muffler I bought welded in place with my tip provided for $100. Not bad at all. Definitely looking forward to it. Tomorrow my infrared temp gun will be arriving so I can do a test on the cats with that to get a idea what's going on before I have it installed Monday. I realized the thread isn't exactly interesting *after* I already posted it. It'd be nice if there was a way for me to delete the thread but usually even on dumb threads like this, useful information is written that may help someone else on a similar quest. Flowmaster states in YouTube videos that the Super 44 is a louder muffler than the original 40 Series (not to be confused with the Super 40). But in their website they contradict this by providing a visual chart that puts the 40 Series above the 44 on the agressive factor. That's because the 40 Series has more interior resonance than the 44... and IMHO sounds meaner. I bet it's really gonna sound good when I put my speed engineering longtube headers on her oh yeah!

Thanks but no thanks.

So the 2003 Silverado has stock exhaust. I've had flowmaster in previous vehicles and like the sound. But I'm wondering what you guys think about the Original 40 Series compared to the Super 44. I can barely tell (actually can't tell at all) if my truck is running at idle without seeing the tach move. It's silent, rather sad TBH, this will change on Monday if I can pull the trigger on a muffler. I'm looking for very strong deep sound inside the cab even at idle. Not worried about neighbors as I live in the country. Not worried about drone either as my mullet abides. I'm keeping the cats in place. Any recommendations? Flowmaster says the 44's are louder but every video I see the old school 40s seem to rumble a lot more. Almost every cat back system Flowmaster makes has the Super 40 which is supposed to be quieter than the two I'm comparing.What's your opinion...what are you running?