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Brendan Corr

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About Brendan Corr

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  • Birthday 09/12/1998

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  1. I ended up bypassing the factory cooler in the radiator all together because I couldn’t get over how hard it was to blow shop air through. Immediately the transmission acted normal but lockup was weak you could watch it slip on the tach. My dad and I ended up dropping the transmission and changing the torque converter. While we were in there we replaced the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, transfer case output seal, and the gasket between the transmission and transmission. The difference is night and day, the truck locks up and stays locked up even in gentle grades where it wouldn’t before (I don’t think this TC was ever good, it came on the transmission from the parts truck) all while keeping in mind, my 22x12’s and 33’s weigh almost 100lbs a tire. Thanks for everyone’s help.
  2. I ended up changing lines, flushing Rad cooler (seems quite restrictive) and replacing the aux cooler with one double the size. I got lockup back slowly but weak. The trans still heats quickly, but slower if i can keep it in lockup. i have a reman converter for it and plan to install it next weekend, Does it still sound like the converter.
  3. those temps were while climbing a 6% grade for miles. When im down in Texas for the summers, it wont get up there unless towing a semi heavy trailer.
  4. it is possible and has been done, just very expensive and difficult.
  5. Thank you, this is what i have been suspecting due to the other gears all applying quickly and firmly like normal before it goes into limp.
  6. I have towed with both, My 2002 and 2007.5's and up. The 6l90e makes a huge difference while towing. The ability of the trans to keep the engine in its power band longer when towing heavy with the 6.0 is quite important. The grade braking is enough to make me hate towing with my 2002. But as dallas said, The build quality of the older trucks is second to none. You couldn't put me in a 2007.5 up truck for a personal. Ill keep throwing parts and time into my 02.
  7. Hello all, i have a 2002 2500hd 6.0/4l80 combo. The truck is blackbear tuned and has been for nearly 10,000 miles. I recently converted the truck to 4x4 with the drive train out from under a 2007 classic. The transmission was a GM reman with little to no miles on it. I dropped the pan, changed the filter and filter o-ring. Then filled with some dex6. The other day i was driving up a fairly steep grad (i-70W), truck was preforming normally trans at around 190-200F when all of a sudden it started shifting crazy hard and getting warm. I scanned it and pulled the dreaded P1870 transmission component slipping No CEL or any other codes. The trans will shift fine when cool until about 175, then it goes back into like a protect mode and will heat over 200F in a couple miles (still have all gears and shifts during this, just very very hard shifts and no lockup.). I have all gear shifts except lockup even when cool. The fluid is still bright pink and has less than 3000 miles on it with no burned smell. My current plans are to pull the trans, change converter and the trans cooling lines as i'm sure the rubber flex joints have collapsed as well as flush both the aux cooler and cooler built into the radiator. Is there anything else i should be doing, or anyone with a similar problem that they've resolved? Any input will be greatly appreciated. -Brendan Corr
  8. i replaced the NSS first and nothing happened. I just dont understand why the truck shows the wrong gear, if i put the lever into reverse, the indicator wont show reverse but the reverse lights will come on.
  9. my automatic does the same thing if revved high enough, but it only hangs at like 2k for maybe two or three seconds.
  10. you're fine, my 2002 6.0 runs about 2600 at 70, and almost 3000 at 80, but then again, it has the 4l80
  11. 2002 2500hd 180,000 miles, was a fleet truck before i bought it. It pulled a 40ft gooseneck travel trailer until the day i bought it at 120,000. still had the original front hubs in it until December when i changed them for piece of mind seeing as i drive from Colorado to Houston for college. Only things I've done is new ball joints, new idler pit man arms, tires (two sets, 265/75/16 bfg KO2's were terrible, only got 20k out of them before they were bald, and now toyo AT II's, awesome tire.) I also just replaced the coils, plugs, and wires off of a 2007 classic that i bought to salvage parts off of to 4x4 swap it. The plugs and wires were still original and now runs much better with all the new parts. This truck has never left me stranded and has had many hot suppers. i get 8-10 MPG in the city, and 10-11 on the highway. I havent gotten to drive it since i changed over the plugs, wires, and coils which i assume will net me some better mpgs. I changed the oil from my normal Valvoline synthetic 10W-40 to a mobil one synthetic and developed a rear main leak, but other than that, all original parts on the motor and trans.
  12. Hello all, my 2002 2500hd with the 6.0l and 4l80e stopped showing the correct gear. My first thought was to replace the NSS and after melting hot glue to change it, it is still broke. The truck will show park if you just get in and start it. When i pull the lever down it goes to reverse and stops unless i take the selector down to 1st gear, then the indicator rapidly moves down to first, and if you just click the truck into drive, sometimes the indicator will move down after a little bit of driving. The reverse lights will come on while in reverse whether or not the indicator shows reverse. The truck drives like normal, and doesn't shift any different. Also, the doors stopped auto locking and unlocking. Any help is appreciated!
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