absinthminded

What do you think about getting some Denali housings and putting aftermarket bi xenon projectors in them?

Hey y’all, long time no see! My 03 Sierra has got 297,000 on the clock now. Rusty, banged up, definitely beater status! Anyhow, I’m wanting to upgrade the original factory headlights. The adjuster are broken and froze up. Im thinking about buying thos “C” style LED headlight housings and retrofitting some bi-xenon mirimoto projectors and maybe some LED bulbs to boost the high beams(?). Im a newb when it comes to this headlight stuff. I’ve been trying to search and I haven’t came up with much. If anyone has done this or any retro fits I’d love some info or some links. Thanks!

I would lift the front end and shake your wheels down. Sounds like you might have a bad wheel bearing.

Pulled my broken vent shield off. Passenger side fender bubbly nasty door seam rust I got a nice cap...that doesn't fit my truck mmm rust belt rusty. I wish I was more vigilant with rust perfection when I got her in 07

I had one of the camber bolts loosen up on me on the drivers side upper control arm. It made a clunk sound when I turned the wheel left and right. Had my wife turn the wheel back and forth while I watched. Kinda sounds like a bad CV. I know that when I had one go bad on another car, the boot split, threw all the grease and then I would click while turning. I'd start replacing what you already know is bad.

So, I've never been much of a fan of people taking newer OEM wheels and putting them on their older car/truck. But then I walked into the showroom and saw these on a new Sierra... Now they have got me thinking about road tires. I wonder how they would look. There isn't much in the after mkt I really like for truck wheels but for OEM wheels I really like these. They are 22"...I wonder if they fit?

Dang, Serventsalesman and 02subarbanz71...you guys are making me feel better and better about my truck! So while I was at the dealer they told me that they couldn't align my truck because I needed 1 new upper control arm and inner and outer tierods. SO, thats what I replaced. I figured with 180k on the clock (if all the parts were original) that the list would be much longer. I did that work and took it to a local Belle Tire for an alignment. They told me that they couldn't align it because it needed another upper control arm (passenger side this time) both lower ball joints, and Pittman/idler arm. I 've been doing the work with a buddy that was an ASE mechanic. This has been the hugest pain in the ding ding Ive ever had. NOTHING comes apart. camber bolts are impossible unless you have an air hammer and you might want to just replace them like me because you boogered them so bad getting them out. The lower ball joints did not want to separate from the knuckle. I had to pound the shit out of them and broke a small ear on one getting it to split. That was after breaking my pickle fork. We took the lower control arms to a local shop to have ball joints pressed out. You definitely need to take a cutoff wheel to the flanged ring around the ball joint before you try and press them out. The press didn't work worth a crap so they were hammered out. The Pitman arm was far and away the worst. Puller and an impact gun and a hammer didn't budge..Then the steering box gets chucked up in a vice. somewhere between squeezing the crap out of the steering box and beating on it with a hammer (not by me) we managed to crack the box or break a seal or something. Of course we didn't find that out until the end of a very very long day, hot as bawls, sweaty, dirty, exhausted...we got it all back together, poured fluid into the res and it gushed out all over the floor! Perfect. Now I own a new steering box. That is waiting to go in... I called up the local parts store, to whom I give a lot of money to and ordered up a remand box last night. They asked me if my truck was sport or luxury. I said its a Z71 and it has leather seats. "Oh well, we keep one style in stock but it says on our computer that you need the other one because yours is luxury sport." ok, order it up. I was at the parts store waiting, with my core in had when the parts truck arrived an hour late. NOPE...its not the same Delphi box. Its larger. The mounts and shafts all look to be in the same places as mine but it is clearly larger and the case is a bit different. I told them to go grab the one they kept on the shelf...Boom! That was the correct box. I could of had it 3 hours sooner and might of had my truck back on the road today. Didn't mean to go on a rant but damn... If you are going to attempt that work and your parts are original and you live in the rust belt... Have a set of torches on had. Heat would have saved us a ton of time. Make sure you have an air hammer to drive out those camber bolts. Make sure your dealer has some camber bolts in stock. Now I own one thanks to this little project. The $50 craftsman one is just fine. Have an angle grinder or a cut off wheel to get those ball joint rings out. Tighten up your pitman arm puller with an impact gun and then smack the side of the Pittman arm with a hammer...don't hammer the box and if you dont have torches soak that thing with PB blaster or something over night. Cant hurt. Hopefully I get to drive it tomorrow. BLOOD, SWEAT and BEERS

I didnt have money to burn but I thought I needed my truck back on the road asap and they could get to work right away. $2400 ISH! I stopped them at $850... They did the TB rewire, the fuel filter and line, the evap and oil and tire rotation. I priced out Moog tie rods and upper control arm. Once I watched a vid on how to do it I went and got my truck back from the dealer. They all went on pretty easy. Cam bolts are a pain in the ass. Now I need to have it alinged and do the axle seals. What brand of seals do you all recomend?? I've done them once before and I think I got napa junk. They are leaking again...

So my truck died (reduced engine power) on the way to my son's 5th birthday party. I drove it to the Dealership and had them quote me on some repairs. It needed: a throttle body rewire fuel filter and new line (rusted) new drivers upper control arm inner and outer tie rods both sides front axle seals evap solenoid on the gas tank Any guesses as to the estimate? 179,XXX miles .

Reviving this old thread because I want to and to say my gas cap cover is starting to rust from the inside out! Winters are harsh!

Is there a lot of after mkt supoport for the LQ9? Headders, rods and pistons ect? I'f I was going to do it I would want to freshen it up and add boost. This is pretty much the only forum I look at concerning trucks. I'm not well versed.

Honestly, I don't know much about the 6.0L How much better is .7 liters? What else is different about the motor?

All this talk about 03s makes me want to take mine off the market and keep it. I thought I was the minority when I saw that newer trucks didn't have carpeted door cards. I only wish I had a real 4 door. I'd really like to give the rockers a color matched LineX treatment. Guess I like that photo angle.

That is awesome! I'd really like to know how to do this. Looks really good man.

I've got to replace my vent solenoid. That little bugger is a pain in the ass to get to. Im starting to think I've got the wrong part. I'm trying to get rid of these darn codes.