Texasdeere

I did replace all 4 corners with KYB's Just shocks in the back. I have noticed, or it seems from various pictures I have seen the 1/2 ton GMT900's and T1's they seem to have 5 coils on the front springs not 7 like mine. Not sure if this is really the case. As long as I can stay away from modern new concrete roads or old asphalt ones I am good. I might need to move to Florida.

Well I got everything installed and it was super easy. I was expecting at the very least some noticeable improvement over the factory stuff but the truck still feels about the same. "Mega Stiff" It literally rides worse than a New 2500HD Sierra. Or any other HD truck that I have ever owned or rode in, including 1-tons and that's a lot. What's funny my 2019 1500 rode very different. It had the factory 20's and actually rode very nice. It did have too much bounce, like going over a speed bump slowly. Something shocks would have probably fixed. The front of the truck raised up 2.0" initially and back down to 1.5" after settling which is good. Quality seems very good. But I can not recommend these as a fix or improvement for the Z60 set up for the few that don't like the Z60 Suspension. My truck called for the SR4546 Struts. The SR4545 for the Reg Cab might have been better. Or 2019 T1 Front Struts! Maybe when the Continental Tires come off there will be some improvement? I don't know.

Thanks Guys, My truck does have the 20's on it. I played around with the tire pressures without much difference in ride. I ran them down to 29 psi for a few days from my normal 38 and 35. I noticed in my research the Suspension codes for the GMT900 trucks had different component packaging than the later trucks. A big one was a lower ride height with the Z60 package. Doesn't seem to be the case with the later K2XX trucks. I hadn't noticed that there was no Z83 for the K2XX trucks. I went on an ordered the KYB stuff yesterday. It was just under $600 for the front and rear. I will be installing everything early next month when I am off from work again.

I believe I have found a reasonable solution for my truck. KYB makes an OEM style stock replacement kit for theses trucks SR4545 Spring and Shock assembled Kits for the front and 345074 Shocks for the rear. They are very well priced, under $500 shipped from Rockauto. This should be very comparable to the stock Z83 or Z85 set up. If the front end still seems harsh I will remove the Z60 36mm front sway bar and replace it with a Z83 32mm bar. That only leaves the original rear leaf springs. I will update afterwards

T and P was on another Forum. I don't know if he is on here or not. Without any further information, as in the only one case where this claimed to fix it. It wasn't enough for me to try it. This isn't going to work for most people but for me it was the lesser of the two evils. I disconnected my front left dash speaker. For me the only real negative is you loose the Turn Signal Tone. On the plus side I am not constantly aggravated and stressed. With my compromised hearing (no high freq in the left ear) the radio sound difference is hardly noticeable. The Radio module mentioned above sounds promising. The re programing part is something I won't be able to do on my own.

Fix the leak first obviously. The headliner isn't too difficult to clean. The third brake/cargo light was leaking when I bought my truck used. Headliner was stained all over the back. A new gasket and everything cleaned up nice. Can't even tell it was ever there.

That is great to know, very helpful. Thanks!

I believe the Fuse Block replacement is for wipers that don't work at all. There is a non replaceable relay in there. I really don't think it will fix the "parking" issue. My 2014 truck wipers started doing the same thing earlier this year. My thinking is to replace the wiper motor itself. I haven't tried this yet. This the best guess I can come up with. The switch works fine, the wipers arms and linkages are all still tight and they turn on and off every time. A new motor assembly is usually under $100 I also have the same issue with my front pass door lock actuator. I bought just the motor to replace inside the actuator but I haven't got around to installing it yet. Looks like a lot of fun the get the actuator out. The motors are about $30 a piece. https://www.gruvenparts.com/2014-gm-door-lock-actuator-motors/?revpage=2&fullSite=1 Hope this helps

I appreciate the input. It has been getting worse lately. Now it is always loud every time. It doesn't even step down like it used to. It is so hot down here now I won't even get into my truck without rolling the windows down first. Yesterday I had enough of it and unplugged the dash speaker. Not having the turn signal tone will take some getting used to. I don't hear high pitched or frequency sounds through my left ear so I may not notice the stereo sounding very different. That being said, if I thought the dealer would be able to do something about it I would take it there and have the chime "programed out" but I understand why they wouldn't. There is one more thing I may try in the future. I read this on another website but I have never seen anyone else try or confirm that it actually works but it does sound feasible. From T and P on March 9th 2024 (Silverado Sierra Forums) (If your chime volume control in the settings does not affect the volume, it's on lowest setting and still way too loud, your radio's amp is shot. These chimes are controlled through the amp. You need to remove the amp, note the part number and purchase a used one from Ebay. All of these other fixes are useless. The amp is mounted on the back cabin wall. To access you need to remove the larger half of the rear seat. It's an easy fix once you have the new amp. The rear seat is two sections, the short side and the long side. There are 2 10mm screws that hold the short and long section of seat frame together then about 5 nuts that hold the long section of seat frame to the floor. Remove these and lift the seat up and out toward the front, just enough to give you access to the rear wall of the cab. You will find the amp mounted on the wall right between where the two seats meet, covered by a layer of insulation. Unplug the old one, plug in the new one and then replace the seat. Your chime volume control will be restored.)

I have a seatbelt thing already plugged in. It's just the way I use the truck. I like to open the door and start the truck before getting in sometimes. Letting it run a little to warm up while I take the trash out in the morning. Sometimes I get in leaving the door open to start letting the 150 degree air escape. Sometimes I open the door before shutting off the truck to see if I pulled forward enough to clear the pillar with my door. The chime on a low or normal volume doesn't bother me at all. Disconnecting the LF speaker might just be a better compromise for me since I use the truck in such a dangerous manner.

I am so sick of this problem I'm pretty close to unplugging the speaker.

If the cooling fans are running properly and the coolant looks good I would suspect the thermostat and or the temp sensor. Most of them seem to fail open. But anything is possible. I have no idea what is going on the the AC though. That's a weird one.

This was a short lived solution. Pretty much does it almost every time the wipers are used. After cycling through all the wiper speeds it will eventually park correctly or close to correctly. The wipers work so the motor is good. The wipers turn on and off properly so the fuse block and relay is also good. I guess the control module electronics are in the motor assembly.

I tried and tried down swiping the Favorites Bar. I was about to give up and I finally got it to go away. It was definitely a down swipe on the bar but I'm not sure what made it work that one time? It's tricky Thanks again for your input and suggestions!

The rubber trim is part of that large plastic cowl piece (air inlet grill) I don't believe it can be purchased separately. I replaced my inlet cowl for the same problem. Usually the two end parts (on the corners) of the cowl will need replacing too.