Pictures attached as promised. I like this position because it it within easy reach for Google Maps and Spotify and I can easily plug my phone into the radio for Android Auto or (my preference) a quick charger in the 12V socket. I primarily use the Android Auto app on the phone screen so I can use the quick charger. I used some left over computer fan screws I had laying around (link below), but any basic screw should work. I drilled pilot holes so the screws wouldn't crack the plastic. I also had to take the dash panel apart (same as installing the auto start/stop eliminator) because the filler panel wasn't fully locked into the clips on the back and it pushed in. Once I made sure the clips were fully seated it was solid. Fan screws: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Cooling-Mount-Screws-Pack/dp/B01LLKY3GO?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
mbaee started following Have you had any "issues" with your 2019 Chevy/GMC? and Looking for a good phone mount
Personally, I don't like the suction cups on the windows or dashboard. In the past, I've use the Panavise custom dash mounts with a PortaGrip holder. They don't have one available for the new body style yet so I made my own mount using the following to parts. My truck doesn't have a trailer brake controller so I screwed the swivel mount into the blank filler panel. I figure I could replace the blank panel for about $10 in the future (PN 84161640 according to the sticker on the back). I'll try to post a picture tomorrow in the daylight. Swivel mount with AMPS mounting pattern https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SV2LXTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Panavise PortaGrip phone holder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO3HBK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a similar experience when trying to get the bed cargo lights activated on my truck. Local dealer asked me for the activation code and there was none in the box. TCSC (internal GM department providing the updated BCM code) won't activate the lights without it. Ended up returning the kit and ordering another one from a different dealer on Ebay (both were about $30 cheaper than my local dealer including shipping). This one also came without an activation code. This time the selling dealer told me that TCSC will supply the code. I called TCSC myself to confirm (Ebay dealer gave me the phone number). Apparently there were 265 kits produced without codes in the box and they are supposed to honor it without the code. Just my luck I ended up with 2 out of 265. Good luck.
That may be true, but there are some features that used to be standard are missing. My 2019 LT crew cab is worlds better than my 2009 LS crew cab, but my 2009 came with the back seat arm rest/cup holder. My 2019 LT (higher trim level) does not. My kids have no place for their drinks in the back seats except for the door pockets which are not easy for a 4th/5th grader to reach. Also, like others have said, why is it that the only 2019 trucks that don't come with LED tail lights are the bottom of the line work truck and the bread and butter LT? It's a money grab to make the most purchased trucks cheaper to make or persuade buyers into more expensive trims.
Fingers crossed for sure. I'm not too concerned about either issue plus I know it's a new model year and all, but I am a little concerned about the dismissive attitude about the brakes. I was on track for a new set of front pads at 5k, rear around 9k. As long as there is no physical issue (sticky calipers, etc) causing real wear I won't fight too hard, but I can't help being a little upset that part of my $40k+ truck doesn't work correctly and the service department doesn't seem to care. I might take it to a different dealer and see if they'll do more than a physical inspection. Good luck to all of us willing beta testers. Unfortunately it's the price we pay to get the latest style.
At about 300 miles, my radio physical buttons stopped working (volume, home, prev, next) but the touch screen and steering wheel controls worked. Took it to the dealer without turning off the key to show the service dept. Made an appointment to bring it back but everything worked after sitting overnight. They never found an issue. Also, as others have stated on this site, the brake life monitor is not working. I was sitting at 1043 miles and it read 80% front and 88% rear remaining. Service dept pulled the brakes off and they told me the pads weren't even worn down enough to expose the sensor wire so it should have displayed 100%. They told me to ignore it for now without offering a fix. "It's a new system. We don't know anything about it." I'm currently at 1201 miles and it is showing 76% front and 86% rear remaining.
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My wife totaled her '05 Equinox LT with a v6 in August 2016. We've had it since new and it had less than 50k miles. Everyone survived with only scrapes/bruises so she wanted to replace it with as close to the same in a modern Equinox. She test drove a '16 v4 and said she liked it. I asked to drive it and agree with everyone else regarding the power. I insisted on the v6. The dealer told us the v6 wasn't available in a '16 but located a '17 AWD v6 for dealer trade. The suspension in the AWD is a little stiffer than her old one, but she likes it so we took it. With supplier pricing, we knew it wasn't an upsell situation.
My 2009 Silverado just this past month had an issue with intermittent cruise problems and the service stabilitrack/traction control messages. I couldn't find the fix except restarting the truck. This past weekend, I noticed that the brake lights wouldn't turn off, even the third brake light, until I took out the key. I took a look under the dash trying to test the switch outputs before buying a new one and I found a broken wire coming off the switch that was barely hanging on by one strand of copper. I cut it and spliced in a small piece of wire and the problem was solved. The lights and cruise control work and no service stabilitrack/traction control messages yet. Hope this helps.
I have the same problem on my 2006 Sierra. I was searching for some help when I came accross your question, hoping you had an answer. Did you get yours fixed? I have no found out what it is. still there, same as before. I had the axle bearings replaced and the c-clips too. was a waste of money and time. didn't fix it. I don't know what to do. I have a friend with a 2000 Ford SportTrac. He had similar symptoms (excessive play, pop when shaking the bed side to side). He took it to a Ford dealer and they found something wrong in the rear differential. I can't remember for sure but I think they had to replace a gear or two. I'm not saying yours is the same case, but something else to think about. Good luck!
I've got a similar problem with a 2009 Silverado. When I hit my brakes, the headlights will briefly dim and come back to full brightness. Took it to the dealer thinking the winter temps are killing my battery or something. They told me it was normal and gave me a printout of a bulletin (#02-06-03-008D) covering cars and LD trucks from 1990 - 2009. They also claim to have checked the electrical system, whatever that means. To quote from the bulletin (and hopefully someone can post the whole thing): There's even a nice chart of electrical system loads! My thing is I don't think I fall into this bulletin. It happens no matter what my speed is. I could be rolling down the road at 60mph and if I tap the breaks the lights will dim. Even if my headlights aren't on, the dome light will dim with the breaks. I've only added a radar detector and a remote start so I'm not draining the electrical system with "customer added electrical accessories". Does anyone else see this with their trucks?
Not quite that expensive. A quick Google Shopping search shows them as low as $250. I saw them that cheap as well but two issues with that. First the BlueFusion Gen1 had issues with audio and a few little software bugs....make sure $250 isnt buying that early version commonly found on EBay. Secondly, when I called Scosche they were very clear, no warranty or support if its not purchased through them or authorized dealer. Third, the A2DP Bluetooth audio device for music is $75 if purchased alone and its included if you buy the BlueFusion direct from Scosche for $349. Good points. I never heard about the Gen1 issues. Is there a way to identify it (ie, serial range)? Thanks for the tip. I figured the A2DP piece was missing since I didn't see it on the various site descriptions. It's not that big of a deal to me since I hear the A2DP performance sucks and I'll just burn an MP3 CD. Another thing to look for is the XM cable/harness. I see it offered separately everywhere and not many places list it as included.
Not quite that expensive. A quick Google Shopping search shows them as low as $250.
Good question. I've been saving my money for a BlueFusion. I still have an active OnStar subscription and I don't want to lose it.
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