Good luck pushing the dealer. My '19 has the same hard shifts, light shudder and slipping as many others do since about 10-12k miles (25k now). I've been to two dealers complaining. Both took it out for an "instrumented test drive" and came back telling me it is normal and nothing abnormal was detected on their equipment. Without any "data" they couldn't justify the warranty claim to do anything else. One service manager even told me the transmission was "mechanically perfect". I don't know how she could say that without even dropping the pan. It's as if they think I'm a liar and don't take my concerns seriously. If it doesn't happen on their watch, it didn't happen. Mine still has the old fluid and neither dealer will even give me quote so that I can pay them to flush the fluid with the new fluid. Forget the warranty claim. I just want to try something and see if it makes any difference.
My 2019 LT is the same way. Recently had it in the shop for similar issues: - Harder 1-2 and 2-1 shifts compared to other shifts since day one (rougher on cold mornings). I was told it was normal by the service dept and all GM 8 speeds do it. - Occasional slips from first to second gear when warmed up after coming from reverse like pulling out of a parking spot. When it re-engages, it kicks so hard it feels like I was rear-ended. - Mechanical linkage sound (sounds like a manual transmission shifting) when dropping into first after coasting/lightly braking to a stop while warmed up. Doesn't do it if I stop normally but I try to coast approaching a red light and roll through the green. - Slipped while climbing out of an underground parking garage. Fairly steep exit ramp and it slipped for a second on the way up. They reprogrammed the TCU and took it for a long test drive. "Unable to duplicate", "Working normally" and "Mechanically perfect" are the phrases the service writer used when I picked it up. I'd like to know how they can say "Mechanically perfect" if they didn't tear it down on the bench. Of course the reprogram didn't solve anything.
Are you using and Android phone? After I connected my phone to my truck for Android Auto, my phone would prompt me that Android Auto support was near by even when I was only using bluetooth for audio and phone. When it did that, my phone no longer alerted me to anything other than a phone call while in the truck. My smart watch would alert me but the phone would be silent. I disabled Android Auto on my phone and the alerts started working again.
I've also noticed a 1-2 mpg increase in sport mode. Not sure why, but I'll take it. Hard to tell exactly how much because it doesn't stay on between restarts and sometimes I forget to turn it back on.
You still won't be able to open all the sections, but what about a hard folding tonneau that mounts with rails inside the edge of the bed? I'm thinking something the UnderCover Ultra Flex that I have. The mounting rails are inside the bed rail and only the weather seal sits on top of the bed rail. I"m no expert, but I'd guess you need to choose between retractable tonneau with the sports bar, any tonneau you want but no sports bar or some limitation that the sports bar imposes on the tonneau.
The same way I do the start/stop system now. I don't have heated seats, but the radio and HVAC controls are permanent settings. I set it how I like and it stays that way until I decide to change it. Nothing frustrates me faster than a manufacturer or developer deciding how I should use their product instead of allowing me to use it as it is able to function. This goes for GM, Google, Microsoft, anyone. Don't provide an on/off button that doesn't function as an on/off button. It works more like a pause button. I've built Arduino powered CANBUS modules in the past that will keep turning things on or off as I see fit when the manufacturer doesn't allow it. My old 2004 Malibu wouldn't stay in HVAC recirculate mode for more than 10 minutes without switching back. I complained that I wanted to keep bus and truck diesel fumes out of the car with my infant child. Dealer said it is "as designed". My arduino plugged into the OBD port and listened on the CANBUS for the "recirculate off" message and would send the "recirculate on" signal in response. Worked great!
I'll leave it up to you whether it's something you want to install on your truck, but this is exactly what the Auto Stop Eliminator product does for me. I too was tired of pressing the button every time. Now when I turn it off with the button, it is permanent. I can turn it back on if I want to and it will be permanently on until I turn it off again. Each time I start the truck, the device does its job and the dash board flashes with the message telling me the system is disabled before the revs drop to idle. It's worth every penny for me to put me back in control of a feature of the truck (whether I wanted it or not).
Same blank screen and unresponsive physical buttons on my 2019. Dealer was "unable to duplicate" and "no faults found" despite me driving straight into the service bay and showing the guy at the service desk before I turned off the truck. Suggested the issue was my fault due to turning on the truck with my phone already plugged in. One time it was almost like the radio module rebooted while driving down the highway. I was listening to Spotify via Bluetooth (not plugged in with Android Auto) and suddenly the screen went dark and the music stopped. Tried mashing a few buttons but nothing. A minute or so later I saw the Chevy logo on the screen and it started working fine again. Edit: Make it twice now for the radio reboot.
GM Accessory running boards aka "work steps" https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-assist-steps-work-step-84017116 Undercover Ultra Flex Hard Folding Truck Bed Tonneau Cover Both work well for me.
Confirmed. I asked that very question to the "technology guy" when I bought my '19 expecting it to be the same or better than my wife's '17 Equinox. He told me that they removed the native text integration and added Android Auto and Apple Carplay instead. He said that research claimed that everyone plugs in their phone to charge on every trip anyway so they defer to the phone to provide the integration.
The outer bezel around the screen with the buttons and controls comes off. Same process to install the auto stop/start eliminator, which I also have. There's a thread on here somewhere. Here's their Youtube install video if it helps. If you don't have the full front console, it will be similar. https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/autostop-eliminators-for-gm-vehicles/products/2019-silverado-sierra-autostop-eliminator https://youtu.be/eQ5h3n-290o
I used to have a 2009 LS. I had a mirror damaged by a hit and run while parked on the street and upgraded to the turn-signal mirrors while I was at it. Wiring comes with the mirrors and there was an unused socket in the door panel. The new mirrors were actually power-fold, heated signal mirrors. I didn't have the door module for the power fold, but heat and signals were plug and play for me. Not sure if the WT has the connection, though. Search this forum for DL8 to DL3 conversion.
It's a "feature" of Android Auto to keep you from getting distracted by the notifications while driving. SMS notifications will silently appear on the Android Auto main screen with the option to read aloud or respond with "I'm driving right now". I've also seen my phone (Galaxy S8 with Android Pie) turn on the "Do Not Disturb" feature when Android Auto is active. You can't prevent it. Ironically, my smart watch will still buzz with the notifications but the music playback will cut out for the second or so that the notification is playing. If you ask me, this is more distracting than knowing I have an email or SMS waiting for me to read when I stop.
Pictures attached as promised. I like this position because it it within easy reach for Google Maps and Spotify and I can easily plug my phone into the radio for Android Auto or (my preference) a quick charger in the 12V socket. I primarily use the Android Auto app on the phone screen so I can use the quick charger. I used some left over computer fan screws I had laying around (link below), but any basic screw should work. I drilled pilot holes so the screws wouldn't crack the plastic. I also had to take the dash panel apart (same as installing the auto start/stop eliminator) because the filler panel wasn't fully locked into the clips on the back and it pushed in. Once I made sure the clips were fully seated it was solid. Fan screws: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Cooling-Mount-Screws-Pack/dp/B01LLKY3GO?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
Who's Online 39 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,583 Guests (See full list)
- Chris Babcock
- Jessica Kisner
- Mike Emerson
- Daryl Z71
- Richard Stelling
- Ryan Dixon
- Tom Witnauer
- Carlos Moran