Rckstr7

Has anyone added the EZ Lift/Soft/open close feature to their 2019-current Silverado? My custom trail boss came without the EZ Lift feature manual tailgate. I want to add the OEM damper components for EZ Lift/soft open/close. So going from RPO code QT2 to QT3. I have the OEM damper, the bedside hinges, the tailgate hinge frames (I think they're correct). I bought the new hinge and hinge frame for the passenger side because that is required to interface with the damper mechanism that is behind the fender wall. I did not buy anything new for the drivers side hinge or hinge frame. I'm stuck on the torque rod. I bought torque rod PN: 84828540. Does anyone know how it installs? It doesn't seem to install on the driver side because the bed side hinge has a larger size interface. Is there a different set of hinge and hinge frame for the drivers side that I am missing. Thanks for the help. Can anyone post pics of their drivers side hinges or even better a pic of the inside of the tailgate with the torque rod installed so I know where I am going wrong?

Josef did you find any info on the 2.5s for a TB rear? I’d like to go with fox 2.5 on all 4 locations. Not working on the rear of a TB doesn’t make sense…

If I am reading the word file right the terminals are 13575818 and 13575824? Just confirming because gmpartsdirect.com lists those numbers as "wire" and a little over $6 each.

Do you know what the part number is off of gmpartsdirect? Thank you.

Do you have a fuse in line somewhere that I can't see in the picture or are you just running a hardline to that terminal with no over current protection? I want to use that terminal for USB/12V port power for the center jumpseat I installed but I don't want to fry anything by not having a fuse in line. Thanks

Did GM sell you the connector pins? If not where did you find them? Thanks

Keep me posted on this. I would like to set up an additional USB charging port and keep it clean like a factory install. If you can post a write up or PM how you did it I would really appreciate it.

Yeah I saw the chamfer on the rear initially but didn't see it on the front. I see it now. I also couldn't see the recessed area for the flare from pictures. Now I see it and it definitely won't fit on the Silverado. It's a shame. All of the aftermarket flares I am seeing for the Silverado are these massive bulky things that go way up the fender. I like the subtle pencil line like the GMC. I'm ok with adhesive. That's how my old ones are on my 1999 Silverado and they've held strong for 20 years. It's all in the prep work to get a fault free application.

I think I see it now. I didn't notice it but the rears of the GMC have a different shape that is quite apparent. Thank you for pointing this out to me. I will have to find something Silverado specific.

To any of you guys pulling off the unpainted black flares, want to sell them? I have a Chevrolet Trail Boss and I like the thin flare look. I think they will fit since we have similar fenders. Anybody out there have them in good shape and want to unload them? Thanks.

Thanks bro. I've never financed a vehicle so I had no idea. Always paid cash. My home mortgage company made me very aware of where the money needed to go from day one when I bought my house. I wasn't even given a number to call GM Financial from the dealership. It's pretty obvious they don't want you to know about this interest grabbing scam they have going on.

I thought this was the case as well because that's what the dealer told me and I unfortunately believed those clowns. I had the cash to pay for the truck outright on day of delivery but the incentive rebate for financing with GM seemed to be worth it. I was never given information on how to make payments from the dealership. I called the dealership a week after picking up the truck because I don't want to be late on anything and was told GM Financial would send the instructions in the mail. I waited 1.5 months for it to finally show up and when I got logged in I realized I could pay the whole thing off in one shot immediately. The @ssholes at GM Financial had no problem dragging their feet giving me the payment instructions. Needless to say I paid an extra $252.68 in interest on the loan I didn't actually need for that 1.5 months to GM financial that I didn't have to. Do not believe the dealership, they're full of ****. GM Financial is fine with stealing your money in interest. I called them on it and they don't care. GM Corporate sent me out a survey on the truck where I blasted them on this strategy and they called me to show "they cared" but they didn't offer any kickback or credit towards service or accessories to make up for the interest they got from me. What a joke. I'm surprised there isn't already a class action lawsuit brewing up pertaining to this sort of shady business tactic.

The LT jump seat has HVAC vents and ducting in it that mates right up to the ducting in the floor of the Silverado Custom. GM bridges the gap with this spongy foam gasket on the floor duct side that creates the seal. My ventilation is just like it would have come from the factory on an LT.

So for everyone's info I wanted my dealer to do this for me. They wanted $1500 for the center console in parts alone. Each part had to be ordered separately. They can't order it as a complete assembly and they said they would not assemble one and install it because between the $1500 for parts plus full assembly labor it would cost a fortune. I found one at a salvage yard. The salvage truck only had 40 miles on it. I had it delivered complete for about $800. The swap is relatively easy. The Custom jump seat only has 4 bolts. I think they were 18mm. Problem is the rear bolts are almost impossible to get to without removing the rear bolts of both the driver and passenger seats. Those are torx 50 and have blue Loctite on them. I removed those on the back of the drivers and passenger seats (2 in the rear of each seat) and then loosened the front torx bolts on each to allow me to prop the seats up while I removed the jump seat rear bolts. So the jump seat bottom storage key lock. This is something you want to do before you start ripping your truck apart. You can't do this with the LT seat installed. You just slide the circlip inside the seat housing, off the end of the lock cylinder and that allows the locking arm to come off. Now you are free to pull the lock cylinder out but be careful. It is 3 small flat pins and 3 tiny springs. I got lucky and just tried different positions of the pins that came in the donor seat until it worked with my key. I got it right on the 3rd try. If you can't get the combo right with 3 pins you could possibly run with 2 pins if you can get it to work. I just hate spare parts so I lucked out. Here's the kicker. The LT seat has the 2 USB ports and the 12 V cigarette lighter type port with a wiring harness running through the seat. The Custom Trail Boss floor wiring harness does not have a port for this connection so you can't do an easy plug and play to gain power for those jump seat ports. It bothers me because I hate having things in my vehicle that don't work but what the hell, the people in the back don't get to have power I guess. If anyone figures out how to run power to those please let me know. Good luck.