Here is the Lund 3" nerf bars, got them on Amazon for $167. I like the smaller diameter, and very inexpensive. Bolted onto the factory holes, easy install. Now down to $155: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JDMRNSB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
+1 on not going by the digital readout. At the rate mine is decreasing, I'll need new pads at 10k miles. And you can certainly use aftermarket pads and rotors without violating the warranty. But my last few trucks went 90,000+ miles before needing them, so that was not an issue. If you are already needing brakes on a truck you bought last year, you are either putting on tons of miles and are past (or close) to even the extended warranty, or you are going by the digital readout which on many trucks is wildly inaccurate.
Thanks the video helps, looks very simple to remove. Plastidip makes a silver turquoise color shifting finish that might look sweet over that chrome. Looks like I should be able to remove the piece, tape off the chrome parts, and hit it with that.
I was wondering this. If it just clips off, I can do like a grey or silver plastidip. Feels like a lot of effort trying to have a piece of vinyl or wrap custom cut. I was thinking maybe put electrical tape over the bottom, and use an exacto to trim it to fit. Would look slightly janky though on my brand new $50k truck.
scdaren replied to Snuff's topic in 2019 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraWith so much criticism out there of the Chevy ride quality vs Ram -- you hear it on just about every review that compares the two -- you would think GM would step up their game a little bit on the stock shocks. Seems like low hanging fruit to improve their competitiveness vs Ram.
Ugh those idiots. Thank you for telling me this. I specifically asked to buy it as an accessory and they told me it was sold as a part. I see it now on the Chevy website. Going to have to go have a talk with them. Of course now I have them installed with the rivets, not sure it's worth the trouble to pull all those out and redo it. Maybe I can make them do it. UPDATE -- Dealer is going to refund the price difference and get me to proper fasteners for install. Though of course I'll need to do the reinstall myself. Or I'll just save them in case I see the push rivets I used starting to fail. But note to all -- make sure when you buy the liners, you get it as an "accessory" and not parts.
Thank you for the write-up, just installed mine. $165 from my dealer. Except mine wasn't any kind of kit, just the liners with those two metal threaded u-clips on them, no instructions provided. Looks like you got little expanding nuts for the square holes, and screws to go into them? My dealer parts guy said to use those little black plastic push rivets. Offered to sell them to me for $4 bucks a piece ($56 for the 14 rivets needed). I just got this push rivet kit for 10 bucks off Amazon, even came with a tool, it was the 9mm size that fit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FV5ZJL3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 Question -- there are three threaded like sheet metal screws screws sticking out from the top of each wheelwell, and holes for them in the liner. Did you put anything on those? I'm thinking some of these little starlock retaining washers.
scdaren replied to 2019Custom's topic in 2019 Silverado & Sierra ModsBro... the black looks awesome as is. If anything see if you can get a black bowtie to replace that gold one on there.
I had one on my 2017 5.3. I won't do it again on my 2019. First of all, it's loud, and not in a great way IMO. At first it felt like it gave my truck some extra punch (which was REALLY needed on my 2017 after coming off a Ram Hemi). But after awhile, I didn't really notice it so much, and drove some stock trucks that felt pretty much the same as mine. Wondering if the engine reprograms to compensate for it? I don't really know... someone probably has some hard dyno data on that. Also, in California, couldn't sell it with the K&N on there, had to put the stock intake back on, which fortunately I kept.
You don't even need to do that. Just go into your credit union office. I actually did it all on the phone with my CU loan guy. He just dialed up GM Financial with me on the line and had me talk to the them to get my payoff using my social to look up the loan, and he sent in the payoff check using the vehicle's VIN number, which is pretty standard practice. I never did get my account number until later when the GM financial paperwork finally came in. You are better off doing it sooner than later, then you don't need to worry about whether you need to get in a payment to GM at 30 days before the refi check gets to them.
The dealer was almost certainly padding your rate to get a cut from GM. I also have an 800 score, and got a 5.3% rate from them. So that's why they can cut it. Take your GM finance rebates and run over to your local credit union to refi it and save a ton of money. You do not have to wait. I waited 8 days.
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