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Found 6 results

  1. Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
  2. Many people have upgraded the bass in their newer model Chevs/GMC/Caddys and have found that with that comes some new vibrations and rattles associated. Below is a run down how to solve one of those problem areas which is the homelink buttons. Problem: Homelink buttons rattle/buzz/vibrate with bass of stereo Vehicles application: Any with homelink buttons (example vehicle shown is a 2018 Suburban) Test: Turn it up (to 11 if you have to) and listen to your homelink buttons, or if you just lightly touch on them and you feel them very loose and not sturdy, odds are that is a source of one of your new rattles. Solution: Electrical tape and some minor disassembly of the overhead console and homelink buttons. Process: Step 1: Test it to see if you have the issue. I added a 10" sub in the back that now vibrated the homelink buttons on certain frequencies, very annoying. It also did the window switch buttons but that is a different fix although very similar. Tap on the buttons lightly, if they are wobbly and loose then you probably do or will have this problem, or turn the volume up with your favorite bass track and listen to the buttons vibrate. Example Image of this part on 2018: Step 2 (VIDEO): Disassemble the control unit. Here is a great little video on a 2015 Tahoe that is identical procedure to get the panel out that holds the homelink. Video Link: Overhead homelink removal Remember you will need to disconnect plugs before the cover panel will actually come out and DO NOT just pull down hard on the entire overhead console center. There are two screws (phillips on the 2018) retaining the full overhead piece in. Just open the sunglasses holder if you have it and we only need to take down the middle cover plate to perform this fix. Step 3: With the piece out on a workbench you can now disassemble the homelink buttons using a torx bit screw driver. It is very small and there are two screws holding the homelink into the cover/trim plate. Step 4: Is to take any decent vinyl electric tape/felt tape/flocking tape and add it to the trim plate like the below. You can trim the excess if you want to. The goal is to make sure you cover the bulk of the perimeter where the buttons themselves will rest against the cover/trim plate. The addition of two layers of Vinyl electric tape cured the problem I was experiencing. This additional thickness added pressure to the buttons mount tab itself which created a more snug and tight fit, that also made the buttons more rigid in the mount. Step 4: Reassemble the homelink to the cover plate, and then put everything back together in reverse order and you should now be vibration noise free at the home link button spot on your overhead console. Make sure to reconnect all plugs and test function before final pressing of the control plate back into the overhead console. Any questions let me know. I only had electrical tape to perform this task. I have some felt tape and flocking tape on order to do more vibration and rattle killing with the addition of the sub. Below is the two versions of tape I ordered that I will also have on hand other than black vinyl electric tape on this quest for vibration and rattle free music listening. J.V. Converting FLOCK-1/BLK05833 JVCC FLOCK-1 Flocking Tape: 1/2" x 25 ft., black J.V. Converting FELT-06/BLK15 JVCC FELT-06 Polyester Felt Tape: 1" x 15 ft., black
  3. Ok so I have looked everywhere and got some great info but can not find anyone who has installed a slim 8inch subwoofer behind the rear seat or under the passenger seat. I have a 2015 crew cab non Bose and my passenger seat is not power so I have some room. The Rockford P3SD48 P3 Punch Shallow mount 8-Inch DVC 4-Ohm Subwoofer I got only needs .40 cu ft per manufacture recomendations. So a pretty small sealed or ported box will do it. I got a Alpine MRV-M250 to power it. I'm going to run 4 awg marine power wire from my second battery and it should let me up the amp to 500w if this 8 inch does not cut it. As far as connections I'm pretty good to go but I'm looking for help with the placement of the sub box and would love to get everyone's thoughts. Not looking for a lots of bass just to help the sound quality out some.
  4. Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -They offer just a sub upgrade, or they offer the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game***
  5. I have a MTX Thunderform Sub Box with 10" Kicker Sub I had installed in my 09 Sierra Extended Cab for a few months until my truck got written off from hail damage. My understanding is it will fit any extended cab silverado/sierra from 2007-2013, please double check fitment (http://www.supercrewsound.com/C15EX07FB10-TN.html). If you're looking for a sleek, OEM-looking install with crisp responsive bass, look no further! This sub was and is amazing, I hate to get rid of it but I ended up getting a small car instead of replacing the truck. Box alone retails for $350 not including $100+ for the Kicker CompVR (07CVR104) 10-Inch 4-Ohm DVC 400RMS subwoofer. The sub is wired for a 2-OHM amp but can be wired to work with nearly any impedance. Looking for $325 Shipped, best offer. Please text or call 218-four-1-six-2-four-9-one as I do not have access to check this forum often. Thanks for looking!
  6. Question: My Pioneer HU should push 14 watts X 4 RMS and 50W X 4 max. I have read on here that the Bose amp pushes about 30W RMS to each channel. Is that right? So, my options are: 1. Leave the speakers wired to the Pioneer stereo OR 2. Wire the speakers to the Bose amp Background: I have a 2004 Tahoe LS. It only had the base radio. I installed a Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS head unit and loved the increase in sound quality. I had also purchased a new console to replace my jump seat; the console came with the Bose sub and amp. I didn't bother with trying to wire up the Bose sub at first because I wanted to get the HU installed and door speakers replaced to see what my initial sound quality would be. (It's also easier to ask forgiveness for spending money when the wife can hear the improvement) A couple of weeks after installing the HU, the Axxess interface stopped working. I bypassed the interface to ensure the HU was fine and everything else works. I tried re-initializing the interface per instructions from tech support but still cannot get any power out of the stupid black box. I got tired of jacking with it and just slipped the factory radio back in. It's been about 6 months and now I have some free time to start all over. I plan to wire the radio in without an interface as I don't care about the chimes or the stereo playing after I turn the key off before I open the doors and my Tahoe does not have any special features. Current System: Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS 2 - Pioneer TS-A1685R 6-1/2" 4-Way speakers (175W Max, 60W RMS) 2 - Pioneer TS-A1674R 6-1/2" 3-Way speakers (150W Max, 35W RMS) In Progress: Wiring up Bose amp and Subwoofer and reinstalling Pioneer HU Wishlist (next 3 months): http://www.ebay.com/itm/271159938439...84.m1438.l2649 - Dual 10 inch downfire Sub Enclosure 2 - Pioneer TSSW251 Shallow Mount 10 Inch Subs 1 - Pionner GM-D8604 Amp Any thoughts before I jump in too far?
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