Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'dexron vi'.
I had my transmission fluid flushed and changed by a non-dealer mechanic about 2 weeks ago at 55k miles and 4.5 years on my 2014 Sierra. This was the 1st transmission maintenance ever done. After the the service, I now feel hard shifts at times if I'm in stop and go traffic while rolling and just giving the pedal a little touch after being fully off the accelerator. I'm getting these hard shifts in other situations too. I've also experienced a situation when still cold where from a dead stop I'll start accelerating and have the transmission kind of all of a sudden kick, enough to squeal the rear wheels. Its kind of like there's some hesitation in acceleration and then it kicks in hard, but I don't see or feel the RPM's climb like I think I would if it was slipping. I don't notice any transmission slipping, but I've always felt like the throttle on this model has been so unresponsive, it could be slipping and I might not know it. So, I called my mechanic today and asked him to check what ATF he used. He checked and called me back saying it was a universal type fluid that says its good for Dexron VI (manual calls for Dexron VI). I trust this mechanic, and he's been fair in the past. He told me to bring it in and he would replace the fluid with ACDelco tomorrow at no charge. I'll give everyone an update on if that solves the problem, but I also wonder if doing the flush could have uncovered a worn transmission. I'm coming up on the 60k powertrain warranty, so I don't have too much time to wait and see. So, my questions are 1) could a universal type ATF fluid that's labeled for Dexron VI be causing these problems? 2) Without feeling transmission slip, would these symptoms indicate a worn transmission? 3) Could this be a computer control issue where I should disconnect the battery to force a re-learn? Hopefully this resolves itself, but if not I guess I'll have to be ready to take it to the dealer and have them diagnose it. I'm not even sure how good they'd bee at diagnosing this since I could see them saying hard shifts are normal like they often like to tell everyone. Oh, one other thing to note. The fluid level looks right on to me, and when the fluid was changed, I was told the the old oil looked good.
Hi all, I am new here, but I just got done doing a transmission filter replacement on my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 (4 speed auto). I watched some DIYs on youtube and looked at some forums, but they all said to drop the exhaust down and that was an issue for me. I didn't have a socket that worked on there, one was too deep, the other was too shallow, and they were a PITA to break loose, so I went another route without dropping it and it worked fine! On a side note, while I was down there I did the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids, too. They are easy, just drain and fill until it flows out. I used a $6 hand pump off amazon that screws right into 1qt bottles of fluid. You can use the same kind of hand pump to drain the transmission pan fluid once it drops to reduce the mess, but I just embraced it and let it spill out all over. Anyway, here is what I did... Tools: 10mm socket 13mm socket T40 torx bit 1. Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it's just in the way. 2. Remove one torx bolt and loosen the other above the shift cable bracket. This allows you to slide it out of the way for extra clearance to the pan bolts and gives the needed clearance to get the pan out. Note that there is very little clearance here and all I could do was get a torx socket on there and use a 1/4" wrench for leverage, but it worked! 3. Remove the pan bolts. It is helpful to leave a couple in so you can control where all the fluid drains out. Drop one corner and let it drain out in as controlled of a manner as you can. It's messy, especially if your truck doesn't fit in the garage and it's a windy day like I had! 4. Remove the pan with a little wiggling, it should slide right out. Pop the old filter out and the new one in. 5. Clean it thoroughly and get the sludge off the magnets. It might be my imagination, but I think one side of the magnet stuck better, so just test it out when you put them back. 6. Put the new gasket on and feed the bolts in. You will have to leave the back row of bolts out in order to clear the part above the exhaust crossover under the pan. 7. Bolt it in and re-install the heat shield and shift cable bracket. I didn't get any torque specs, but they were really easy to remove, so I just tightened them down mechanically tight. 8. Fill with fluid, it took about 6qt initially, but I have to go for a good long drive yet to warm it up and check it again. Hope this helps, it's way easier than trying to get the dang exhaust system to drop down! I mean really, look at how they located these bolts, I'd need 3 different sockets, a swivel, and a couple crows foot wrenches to break and remove all that crap including the sensor, no thanks! If you have any suggestions let me know, peace!