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Showing results for tags 'heads'.
Found 5 results
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Hey guys, I'm trying to determine if an l86 intake bolts up fine to the stock l83 heads? Reason i'm asking is I have a chance to get a blower kit at a crazy deal from local shop but its for a 6.2 truck. I'm not worried about tuning as it will be dyno tuned, just wondering if I'm going to run into issues with ports not lining up or if they'll even bolt together. Thanks in advance
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Hey all, I have a few items I'm selling to make some room in the garage. These items fit a 2014+ GM 6.2L V8. If you happen to live in New England I can possibly come to you. This is why I'm selling the parts. Had the truck for a few months and a handful of lifters and pushrods S.T.B.. So I went down the rabbit hole :). Diablo Sport Trinity 2 EX performance tuner. $599 RETAIL. Selling for $399.00 obo (Only had for a few months on truck). Momentum XP 5R Cold Air Intake System. $512 Retail. Selling for 300. approximately 3,000 miles on it. Comes with recharge kit. Kooks 1 3/4 Long tube Headers. $1,389 Retail. Selling for $500.00 approximately 1,000-2,000 miles on them. Purchased May 2018. Texas Speed Performance 1 7/8 Long tube headers. $539 Retail. Selling for $150. approximately 500-600 miles on it. Purchased October 2018, truck broke Jan15ish 2019. OEM Radiator $50.00 obo OEM Pistons (8) $300 obo Cylinder Heads complete (pair) $500.00 (Cleaned, perfect for sending off to port, core refund or replacement). GM 6.2L camshaft. $80 obo. Pictures upon interest. PM if you are.
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Hey guys. I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado EcoTec3 5.3L Regular Cab and I want to build it to run decent track times. Decent meaning at least 11's. I don't really know much about the 5.3L and I would really like help on what should be done to run times like that. What cam? Intake? TB? Head swap maybe? Will even consider Turbos, supercharger, or a procharger. Also rear gears, will tranny hold up at the torque needed? Can I do this without messing with the bottom end at all? I'm open to anything and everything. The truck will not be driven on the street very much, I work 100+ hrs/wk but I'd find time to take it to the track. Thank you.
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Hey guys. I just bought a 2014 Silverado Reg Cab with the 5.3L last week. Pretty excited about it. Already seems to be a pretty fun truck. I also have a 2006 Silverado Reg Cab with the 4.8L but that I left to my dad to drive. Anyways, a little about me, I'm 19, live in San Antonio, work in the oil field so I make a little money, just don't have time to spend it, but that's where online shopping kills me. Well here what I'd like to know.. I'm always online and I see all these newer model GM trucks turbo'd or supercharged with slicks dropped to the ground running 10's in the 1/4 and then driving them home and that's what I want. I already plan on dropping it, probably 4/6. I just want to know, what needs to be done to run times like that? All the way from rear gears to cams, and tire size to turbos. I currently have 3.28 rear gears and 255/70R17 tires. Just tell me everything like what brands I should use and prices on them. Also, I'm not gonna drive this truck very often. I spend most of my life in a company truck. I hope to hear from y'all. Thank you.
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Hi, I'm Logan. I'm new here and new to trucks. I've got a 2001 5.3L chevy silverado 1500 z71 standard cab with about 222k miles on it. Its my first truck and I bought it from a friend of mine. I changed the oil when I got it, it was barely touching the dipstick, black as coal, and had sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. I put a new filter in, 5 quarts mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic high mileage, and 1 quart Lucas Oil. After that it smoked like crazy and burnt a quart every 200 miles. It seemed to slowly lose a little acceleration every time i drove it and then it started to idle funny and stall out when it got warmed up. I cleaned the PCV valve, EGR valve, MAF, O2 sensors (blow torch), and when i started to clean the throttle body I noticed oil standing in the bottom of it and the intake; the throttle body and intake were COVERED in black oily carbon build up. So I got all that cleaned up and it seemed to run better until it got warmed up, it started acting up again. I finally replaced the old rattle type PCV valve with the straight through orifice type and it has been fine ever since. I have not yet checked to see if the oil in the throttle body has gone away but I'm waiting for everything to get burned out. I drove it a little while, and it has since almost stopped smoking. It smokes a little white smoke when I crank it up and every now and then when i lay on it. I checked my fill tank for my radiator and it bubbles just a little while running and it has a VERY slow antifreeze leak so I'm guessing I have a head gasket leaking. I'm gonna replace the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets (they are leaking), do a cam swap, and some other things while I'm down that far. I can hear my lifters really loud when I crank it up and still some when it warms up; it sounds like a slapping sound and gets faster when u rev the engine, so I want to replace those and anything else I should while I have everything off. Ha so after all that, here are my questions: 1. Idk if I have Castech heads yet but if I do, should I replace them with aftermarket heads/heads from a different vehicle or just go ahead and have them worked over and ported. 2. If I keep the Castech? heads, what all should I do to them? I know I want to replace lifters; what else? Valve guides, valve seals, rockers, push rods, etc? 3. What cam should I get? I want some more low to mid torque while keeping my MPG as much as possible. 4. At 222k, what are some safety measures I can take? What else should I replace while I'm down that far? I'm going to have it dynotuned after all this so I'm not really worried about that, I just want to get everything decided so its not torn down for too long. I work on small engines (dirt bikes, 4 wheelers, etc) and I'm decent with car engines but I've never been this far into one of them. I'm doing all the work with the help of my dad so any other help is greatly appreciated.
