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Showing results for tags 'power loss'.
Found 7 results
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Having a major loss of power especially noticable when going up hill, and terrible fuel mileage(350 km to an 90 litre tank) have done all the basic things it could be like maf sensor, plugs + wires, Fuel filter, and air filter. I’ve heard talk about it being the cats but they are relatively new and got no codes, and help would be very appreciated! -
I had a strange problem with my '03 GMC Sierra but was able to figure it out and thought I'd post a summary in case someone else can benefit from it. The symptoms were random and odd. The ABS/Brake dash lights would come on every couple weeks and the chime would go off a million times, then started happening more often and finally started happening when I'd turn the key to the "on" position before starting the engine. I figured it had something to do with the ABS module maybe and would look into it, except that when it got really bad it was at the same time my A/C blower and electric windows wouldn't work. AND, the transmission would go into "limp mode" and stay in third gear. I figured it had to be related since it all started going bad within one day, then the truck wouldn't start at all, luckily in front of my house. I suspected the ignition switch since that's a place where multiple components are powered. I grabbed a good used switch (I work at a wrecking yard) and swapped it out and that didn't help so I checked power to the switch. One wire was hot going to the switch but when I rotated the wheel to acc and on positions only a ocuple wires lit up out of eight! Good switch but power not being distributed. Turns out that there's two power wires that go to the switch, in my case both red wires (some schematics show red and red/wht) and the other red wire was dead. I checked it at the fuse box and it had power, probed the wire from the fuse box to as far as I could toward the fire wall and had power, then started at the switch and probed the wire past the big connector under the dash as far back to the firewall as I could and it was good (continuity test). So I decided I had a bad power wire at the firewall somewhere. In my book this is weird, I've never had something like that happen before, but the bad wire was buried in the wire loom so much that I decided to cut the wire at both ends and solder a new "patch" in. Everything worked! The A/C and windows have worked perfectly for three weeks and the transmission never showed a problem again. The only disappointment has been the ABS/Brake lights lighting up once in the past three weeks. Not sure what to think about that yet. Sorry for the long explanation but I think it's all important. Hopefully no one else ever has this problem... Dan -
I've been recently having starting issues with my 2000 Denali. At first I thought it was the starter so I replaced the starter. It continued to have starting problems sounding like it wasn't getting enough power. So I charged my optima battery overnight and it started fine. As we drive the gauge shows that we are losing power as we are driving. So I figure alternator replace that and the wires for starter and battery. Then I do a parasitic drain test and it shows that I have a draw of 0.04 when my multimeter is set to 10A. Any ideas I'm at the end of my rope with the electrical issues with this truck. Had major BCM for a while finally that was resolved now this.
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This past August I bought a 2016 GMC Sierra Elevation Edition with 5 miles on it. During the test drive I noticed it had a much stronger feeling transmission with great takeoff compared to my 2009 GMC Sierra WT. I had to be careful not to spin the tires when pulling out (my 2009 felt like it always pulled out in 2nd gear). After 3-4 weeks of driving the Driver Information Center came up with "Service Stabilitrak" and "Service Trailer Brakes". The dealership said that the Anti-lock brake module was bad and they would have to order one. While I was there, they did the airbag recall which was an ECM flash. Immedately I noticed a loss of power when pulling out of the parking space. It felt as if the transmission was in 2nd gear when pulling out. Even if I manually put the transmission in 1st when pulling out, it still doesn't have the power it did before the flash. The dealership said that GM states the airbag recall would not cause any issue with the transmission or power yet the problem existed immediately after the flash. If I push the gas pedal down about half way it sometimes acts like it goes between gears for a couple seconds. Sometimes it gears down and sometimes it goes right back into the gear it was in. I love the look of the truck and the improved ride, but I would have never bought this truck if it ran like this during the test drive. I have less than 3,000 miles on the truck and regret giving GM a 2nd chance. The transmission went out on my 09 GMC at 42,000 miles. It was out of warranty so I had to pay for the GM certified remanufactured transmission that still felt like it took off in 2nd gear. I traded the 09 off for this one when it only had 46,000 miles. The flash was probably the issue with the 1st one... Here I go again... Has anyone else had this issue? Any resolution without voiding the warranty?
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My truck has the 5.7l engine in it and I've had this issue only a handful of times. I was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue or has ideas on what to test. The problem: every blue moon when I start the truck for the first time that day and am driving it feels like its choked out one way or another. I have extremely poor acceleration and seems like it simply doesnt wanna go. It only does this for about a mile or two then goes back to normal and drives fine the rest of the day. It seems to only happen on super humid days, after it rained overnight, or once after a car wash. I haven't really checked anything out yet since it hardley ever happens. My air filter is brand new, and the truck has 106k mi on it. -
I've carried my 2006 Suburban (123,000 miles) to three shops and one dealer now to avail. The engine stumbles when accelerating and struggles going up even small hills or bridges and struggles to accelerate. I'm $1600 into this and still have the same problem. I have replaced all 8 coil packs, plugs, wires, upstream and downstream O2 sensors, catalytic converters, Throttle Position Sensor, accomplished compression test (approx 190 lbs on all cylinders), fuel pressure test, dealer cleaned intake, dealer cleaned fuel injection and rails. The private shops kept the truck for three weeks and after not pinpointing the problem advised me to carry it to a dealer. They charged me nothing for labor and discounted the price of the parts. The dealer kept the truck for four days and came up with something different each day. Wanted to charge me nearly six hundred dollars but settled for $260. Dealer advised tearing down the top end (makes no sense as compression is good and holds for over five minutes) for $800 and then another $2000 to reassemble if no problem found. Is this something anyone else has gone through? I use the Suburban to tow a camper but there is no way it has the power to pull itself much less a trailer. I hate to say it but I beginning to lean towards buying a Toyota Tundra if I don't find a solution to this problem soon. I really like my Suburban but I can't afford to throw more money at guessing what the problem is.
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Hi all, I've read a few places that lifting your truck could potentially lead to a torque/hp loss and turn your truck into a "dog". Any truth to this? Anybody know how this all works? I mean, I understand that if you put bigger wheels and tires on you'll be making the truck heavier and thereby weighing it down a bit, but are the reported losses of power true? Forgive my ignorance, but does it have anything to do with the air moving under the truck? Why are people reporting power losses after doing suspension lifts?
